Best camera flash light diffusers according to redditors

Are you talking about This?

As an aside:

> I'm currently working with a generic flash diffuser which has been working just fine for me so far.

Wait a goddamn minute: $29 for a generic Sto-Fen? When the real thing is $8? What's the point of buying generic if it's going to be that expensive?

THIS right here is generic.

My fiancé buys me neat (and cheap!) camera gear every year for christmas, so far I've gotten:

• Gary Fong Puffer $18.99 (a flash diffuser)
  
• Targus Battery Grip $25.98 (this is somewhat camera specific)
  
• Hot shoe spirit level $5 (this is cheap as hell and really cool!)
  
• Canon Monopod $34.95 (I have the Monopod 100 but it's no longer available. These are great for when a tripod is too bulky and sturdy enough to use as a light walking stick)
  
• Dolica Tripod $39.99 (Great prosumer tripod, not a pro tripod though)
  
• Lens cap keeper $1.91 (sticks to any lens cap and then attaches to the lens body to stop the lens cap from falling off)
  
  All of these things are pretty awesome for me, a serious hobbyist with a Nikon D5000 DSLR.
  
  Having said that, what I want for Christmas is:
  
  
• 52mm Neutral Density Filters ($31.99) and 62mm Neutral Density Filters ($42.99), these are the same set for both my lenses, they let you do longer exposures under brighter light conditions. I want them for a shoot in early December though so will probably buy them before that myself ;)
  
• A gradiated ND filter ($11.99), for the same reasons as above but only for one half of the exposure, with a gradient transition
  
• Panoramic Image tripod head ($16.95) for creating seamless panoramas
  
  Hopefully this helps!

No problem. :)

Ok, so flash is pretty easy. My setup might be a bit outdated, but here is what I use currently:

• Flashes
  
• Transceivers
  
• Controller
  
  I have 3 of those flashes, they're really pretty great if you aren't too snobby about brands. I believe Yongnuo has flashes now with the transmitter built into them, but I have never used those and the only time I've seen them in action it didn't go super well. I'm sure they're fine, I just can't recommend them.
  
  So basically you put the controller on your camera. You put each flash you want to use off camera on the transceivers. The controller lets you adjust each flash's settings remotely and triggers them. It's awesome.
  
  If you generally don't know what you're doing with flash for the reception, it's generally best to bounce the light off the ceiling. Point the flashes roughly upward and fire away. At receptions with a defined dance floor you can get pretty great results by placing them in a couple of the corners. Your light might come back kinda yellow. If you don't want to worry about using gels on your flashes then just keep an eye out for it and adjust the white balance in Lightroom after the fact.
  
  Aside from flashes you will want some modifiers to place on them. When I was starting out the two that I used are these (these aren't the exact ones, but they're close):
  
  
• Flashbender
  
  
• Baby Softbox
  
  So there are probably better modifiers to use, but these are cheap and they work pretty well at diffusing/directing light. The softbox is great for portraits and I frequently would use the flash bender to direct light gently over a wide area, like when the toasts are going on or the bridal party is entering the room or the dance floor. When used correctly you should get pretty great lighting and avoid hard shadows.
  
  Anyways, how I shot those photos. You're generally right. I love shots like that (probably too much), and so I do them all the time. The general idea is the same for all of them, soft light in front and a bright light in the back. Using the specific equipment I listed above, my usual MO is to put a bare flash behind them, typically on the ground (using these)or on a stand as low as possible to the ground. Point it at the couple and slightly upward (photo 1 is the exception, it was pointed essentially straight up to make the gazebo light up like that).
  
  Set up a flash in front of them. In most of those photos I used the flashbender modifier on the flash pointing at the couple to direct but diffuse the light. It helps it look a bit more natural. Generally you want to position it in a way that the shadows aren't too distracting, so do it slightly off to the side to get more natural lighting. Obviously I messed up in a few of mine but it is what it is and most people don't even notice. We're always our own harshest critic.
  
  Next is the settings. This is honestly the toughest part in my opinion. You need to expose for the background you want and then use the flashes to achieve the lighting you want on the subjects. I don't know how to describe this, but the easiest way is with photo #6 on my website. I exposed the photo for the city behind the couple and got the look I wanted, THEN I added flashes and whatnot. General rule of thumb is the light behind the couple should be one step brighter than the light in front. That way you get the glowing backlight effect.
  
  Thanks for the compliments on the photos! I hope this helps. I'm sorry if I did a bad job of explaining things, just ask me to clarify anything you don't understand.
  
  EDIT: All this being said you don't NEED off camera flash. I've shot entire receptions using on-camera flash. The most important thing to remember is you just want to diffuse the light in some way. When you're using flash on camera you typically achieve this by bouncing it at the ceiling. Practice this at home, it usually works pretty well!
  

I have a godox v860ii
it came with these color gels: gel things
, I don't overly know a good way attach it via the velcro

it also came with this difuser
and it really kinda sucks, it's there a decent cheapish one(20ish or less)?

I really like the Laowa/Venus Twin Flash 800; weird-looking, but very useful, incredibly flexible flash unit, with focus light. I use it with Canon gear, but it's universal. I put miniature softboxes on each flash end when I want diffusion; Neewer Pro Universal Soft Mini Flash Bounce Diffuser Cap for On Camera or Off Camera Flash Gun: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JUPDH5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l1EQCb6H500QB

Venus Twin Flash w/articulating arms, Amazon, $229.00
Venus Laowa Macro Twin Flash KX-800 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IYIYBTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aWEQCbZQ92D8H

Reviews:

Thomas Shahan:
https://youtu.be/8JbJzENXjz8


Scott Dumas:
https://youtu.be/1IZKBHwoJs0

Get a flash, such as the the FL-600R. (the built in flash being harsh and crappy.) The flash will allow you to go up to 1/200 or so which will suitably 'freeze' squirmy children. With infants/toddlers don't point the light straight at them for two reasons; one, it scares them and two direct flash looks terri-bad; bounce the light off the ceiling, or if that doesn't work too well, use a diffuser, soft box, or reflector.

It takes a little practice with the flash (your first results will underwhelm you) but with a little YouTube and Googling you can get down the techniques quick enough to get squirmy baby photos indoors without needing to buy expensive lenses (though yes the flash is itself expensive.... so maybe my argument is moot.) Faster lenses (especially prime lens at portrait focal lengths) will certainly do the job without a flash. You will do OK with either the Pany or the Oly 20/17mm's though I would first advise renting them through LensRentals first (as well as try out any other lens that takes your fancy.)

​

> What are your thoughts on Magmod?

Expensive for what it is, but works well.

>Does the MagSphere do the same job as a softbox?

No, Magsphere does the same as https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Bounce-Diffuser-MK950II-Speedlight/dp/B0051XEOUI that costs a fraction as much. They are made to be used for run and gun when you can't bounce the light off a wall or ceiling. They just throw light out in ever direction If you are going to use it as a direct flash, you will get similar results to useing https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Universal-Diffuser-Olympus-Panasonic/dp/B00JUPDH5Q/ or https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Translucent-Softbox-Cameras/dp/B00ENSKUUK/

>What are the pros and cons of the MagSphere?

Pro - Its durable, its fast on, works with gels

Cons- Expensive - Most of the time something else can do the job for much cheaper.

Get one of these:

Yongnuo 560 IIs

And get some radio triggers too. You'll need something like a Flash Bender, or a Fong Lightsphere to diffuse/modify the light.

I've seen a lot of bar photogs using this combo, and then they hold the light above the subjects head, so you get a nice butterfly-like light quality, and it's much more efficient than bouncing, as you can use much less flash power to get a clean image.

You could find variations of the products I mentioned to fit your budget if those are too much.

Not sure how you're diffusing, but I bought one of these a while ago and was impressed at how well it works. It's still a direct light source so the pictures will look a little flatter than shooting with a bounce or off-camera flash would but for $20 vs. hundreds for a speedlight system it's a really good start. But I bet with as handy as you guys appear to be I bet you've already built your own!

> some type of diffuser

I have a thing like this, came with my flash. Results are okay-ish, definitely worth 8 bucks thought. Full frontal in the face with little flash and there are no shadows anywhere in the face. No studio quality, but improvement to ceiling bouncing in my experience

NEED ADVICE ASAP!

Tomorrow I will be shooting my first ever wedding. I won't be at the ceremony but I will have a set up at the reception. My problem is one of the sockets on my lights has popped out somewhere and now I'm only working with one light for reference now I'm only working with one of these
I do have my Newwer flash and this light bender as well. Do you guys think I can wing this or should I try to find another main light source asap? Also any advice on doing backdrop wedding photography? I'm working with my Sony a6300 and I have a 18-55 kit lens and 50mm 1.4 Nikon lens. I was thinking the 50 was going to give me the best result since I'm doing portraits.

If I can wing it with one main source light and my flash where should I position the main light? Going on YouTube right now to look up some tutorials and tips would appreciate any links or articles! I'm pretty nervous because it's a wedding but its not the first time I wing a shoot with mishaps going on.

So I bought the amazon basic flash. And I'm having trouble with it. All of my photos look really really overblown. All my photos with this flash are really white and blurry. The only time it looks okay is when I do -5.0 Exposure comp and -3.0 flash comp and I use the lowest setting of the flash. What's the point of buying a flash if I'm just going to diffuse it completely? I also use an altura flash diffuser btw. I just want a nice soft light on my portrait's faces. I find it annoying to mess with the exposure compensation etc is there something I'm missing here and not doing right? My goal is to get pictures like this I'm just really frustrated because all of them look completely white or the background looks like night because of exposure compensation.

I'd definitely pick up a speed light. If they choose right in front off the Windows and it's bright out, you're toast without it. Something like Altura Photo Professional Flash Kit for NIKON DSLR - Includes: I-TTL Flash (AP-N1001), Wireless Flash Trigger Set and Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H84WRK2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_j0a-ybVCZGCG4 Will get you ittl and a remote trigger for not too much money. Since you're traveling, worst case scenario you make your bf hold it, but you might be able to get away with it on camera bounced of the ceiling. I might grab something like this Flash Diffuser Light Softbox 6x5” by Altura Photo (Universal, Collapsible with Storage Pouch) for Canon, Yongnuo and Nikon Speedlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_e2a-yb78Y3G53 too, just to be safe

I will disagree, if you have a diffuser on, and are close enough, it will provide a small amount of fill light. Under the right lighting conditions outdoors, it can make a difference. Something like this can help as well, it will make the light far less harsh outdoors.

Why use tupperware when you can just use a big reflective strap on thing

I run a super budget setup as close to professional lighting as I can. Well it's budget in comparison to pro set ups.

I start with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wSnezbPMKMHMZ

It's dimmable so I can adust the brightness for any time of day and turn it off without messing around with switches.

I plug that into this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HX2EVPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_TVnezbVVQ3QQB

Well in reality I have a small desk lamp with a clip on it. It attaches to my monitor stand. But we'll get what ever lamp work for you.

Then I bought this soft box. Modified it slightly (just cut it open a little)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENSKUUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_eYnezbNZ9D1XR

Then bam. Simple and adjustable set up for my setup. I can make the light as bright or dull as required by the remaining room lighting.

Go for a larger softbox if you have room. I don't as I have all my monitors on a 2x2 stand!

(Not referral links)

You may want to get something with ttl [(through the lens metering)] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Through-the-lens_metering) on it like a [Yongnuo YN-568EX II] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yongnuo-YN-568EX-Flash-Speedlite-LF243/dp/B00DOR8JKO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469542174&sr=1-3&keywords=yongnuo+YN-568EX+II) with a [pair of these] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yongnuo-Wireless-Transceiver-WINGONEER%C2%AE-diffusor-622N-Nikon/dp/B00N8G9VYY/ref=pd_sim_421_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41jK8h1SWpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=S8QP0H2S30BB18JAK9PT) and a [flashbender/softbox] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SYIW06M/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_4) combo type thing for a modifier. If you wanted to do a two off camera flash type deal with manual mode you can always pop the 560 on optical slave and use it as a fill with the 568 as a key. You'll be able to open up loads of interesting options.

Whilst you'd be limited to only using the one 568 with ttl and hss think it would be a dead handy thing to have.

Flashes can be confusing as fuck I hope I've not compounded that somehow? I think I may have :P. Anyway I hope you find this helpful in some way.

u/xnedski makes good points. Also, if you're using a shoe-mount flash, a diffuser often makes a big difference in red-eye, and your shots will be much less harsh to boot. The various Fong diffusers are what the pro event shooters use (but they're stupid overpriced), but just an Amazon search for "flash diffuser" will turn up a mountain of various takes on softening flash. Or even pointing the flash up a bit and sticking a white reflector card with a rubber band is better than nothing.

memory cards if she's on dslr. you can never have enough, in my opinion

extra batteries - depending on your budget. You can find the batteries for her camera online if you know the make/model.

$8 flash modifier if she has a hotshoe flash (a big flash that isn't built into the camera)

a camera bag/backpack if she doesn't have one.

rechargeable batteries and a battery charger if she has a hotshoe flash that takes AA batteries.

A remote shutter release. If you know the make/model you can buy one for her camera that will either be with a cord or wireless and let her control the shutter from a remote control which is handy in a lot of settings.

I highly recommend using a diffuser or soft box such as this one or this one

1. put a flash on your hot shoe and get a little softbox for the flash.
   
   
2. get a manual exposure (to about -2/3) without using the flash. you can drop the shutter to 1/15th in order to deal with the low light.
   
   
3. turn on the flash and adjust the intensity until your subject is properly exposed. even with a slow shutter your subject will have good sharpness due to the flash being almost instant.
   
   
   the direction of light will be annoying but it will work. if it were me, i would put a flash on a light stand with a shoot through umbrella and reposition that for each photo.
   
   this is the basic idea with on location lighting. expose for the ambient lit background, then add in flash to your foreground subject. remember that shutter speed will only affect the background/ambient exposure while aperture/iso effect the entire exposure. you can increase the shutter speed for a lower key look or slow it down for a flatter image.
   

Nightclub photographer here, I usually go with one of two setups. I'm almost always shooting with my 10-24 f/3.5-4.5, which is obviously kind of a slow lens, so just keep that in mind.

The first setup is to have an SB-600 with an omnibounce like this
http://www.amazon.com/Sto-Fen-Omni-Bounce-OM-600-Flash-Diffuser/dp/B000HDFXU2
on the flash head. Unlike the card, this makes it easier to switch camera orientation. as for settings im usually between 200-400 ISO at F/3.5 (changes with zoom) and 1/5th of a second shutter speed with the flash set to Rear curtain sync. The flash will naturally freeze movement while the slow shutter allows you to gather all of the interesting ambient light. I always have my flash pointed up.

My second setup is to just say screw it and set my ISO to about 2000 and turn my flash off. I use the same 10-24, but obviously if i had a 50mm 1.8 on there, it wouldn't have to be such an extreme ISO. with the widest aperture and about 1/30th of a second, I can usually get a bunch of decent pictures that only have existing light. This setup can produce amazing stuff, but it does kind of vary from venue to venue if you can use it or not. The idea is that people care WAY more about awesome looking pictures than they do about noise .

You're not stuck with your 50mm, you just have to buy a diffuser cup. try this out, i do it almost every other night and typically have great results with it.

You might find Tom Ang's Fundamentals of Photography helpful as you learn more about photography.

I started out with the 430 EXII. It should be more than sufficient for your needs, along with a Stofen.

Yeah the answer is definitely a fill flash. I use these and I love them (for how cheap they are compared to a pocket wizard). Start with that, maybe get a little diffuser to soften the light over the flower.

I think most expensive diffusers are overpriced and mostly work the same. Honestly, you can make a decent one from a rubbing alcohol bottle.

however, if you want to look good, get a folding soft box diffuser. They are only around 12 dollars https://www.amazon.ca/Opteka-SB-1-Universal-Diffuser-External/dp/B0017U0WM8

something like this

While everyone suggests a 35 or 50mm f/1.8 lens, let me suggest a flash that isn't on top of your camera. I'd get at least the 430EX flash (http://amzn.com/B001CCAISE) so you can swivel and tilt the head of it. Pair that up with a good diffuser (http://amzn.com/B000CLNHXY) and you can take some great portraits. Flashes are great to have even in bright sunlight to soften shadows and add catch-lights to eyes, and are invaluable in other types of photography and situations.

Also, a RapidStrap is nice to have (http://amzn.com/B002WR7VSS), as it will get your camera off your neck and onto your shoulder. It's a hell of a lot more comfortable to carry it around during hikes like this.

You don't need it.

I shoot off-camera whenever possible. But sometimes the situation dictates having the flash in my hotshoe.

On-camera, I often put the flash in a diffuser, and use it as a fill light. It's not really "lighting the scene;" instead it's filling out harsh shadows and bringing out color. Otherwise, I bounce the flash off the walls or ceiling. In that case the flash is lighting the subject. But the light doesn't look like it's coming from the camera.

How you start out depends on your needs. If you're on a tight budget, focus on bounce flash. If you have a little extra money, buy a light-stand, an umbrella holder, and an umbrella. You can trigger using optical salve mode, or with a radio trigger.

If you want to use the flash as a fill light, I like this mini-diffuser: https://amzn.com/B01ERRQ802

oh, I also just got the Gary Fong puffer that fits into Canon, Nikon, or Sony hot shoes and diffuses light from your pop-up flash. Not bad for $18. I haven't played with it extensively yet, but I'm shooting a conference with high ceilings (no bounce) so I thought I'd get a lot of use out of it then.
Puffer on Amazon

I just recently bought a thread adapter so I could use various filters on my 195. I think the 49mm one you linked to would the wrong size. The 180, 190 and 195 use a 45mm, but apparently it's also a finer thread than normal. The Heliopan ones are supposedly one of the few compatible adapters you can use. After seeing it recommended by others, I got this one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/160285-REG/Heliopan_700222_45mm_49mm_Step_Up.html

I can confirm it fits both the 180 and 195 perfectly fine (though I tried to be gentle and not screw it in too tight). That LED ring light you linked to looks like it comes with a 49mm adapter already, but if you did want a 55mm thread, it looks like they do make a 45mm-55mm (hopefully it's designed the same way).

I'm pretty sure I have that same ring light for my DSLR, too. It works well for continuous lighting on macro shots, but I've never actually used the flash mode so I can't really comment on how powerful it is. The setup should work, but another option would be to just put a diffuser on a regular electronic flash like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802

So any external flash is going to be pretty bright on a snap and might make people uncomfortable. I really wouldn't recommend using an external flash in a place of business unless you've been given the okay to do so.

With that said, I'm not your mom so do what you want. Here's what you'll likely be looking for though: Yongnuo YN560IV flash, Yongnuo 560TX transmitter, and some sort of flash diffuser box like this.

Spherical Flash Diffuser Ball (30cm) - with Bowens Mount + S-type Flash Bracket for Canon, Nikon, Yongnuo Flash Speedlite, Godox, Jinbei, Golden Eagle, U2, NiceFoto, Oubao, Dison Flash Monolight Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDMZZB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_idcQCbC8PKW1T

like that? i mean it’s much larger but it could be a monolight with a globe diffuser?

Hello,
I'm looking to buy an accessory for my Godox flash to use with my a7 iii, either a reflector diffuser or a diffuser cap. I am unsure what the differences are and which would serve me best. It'll mostly be used in a low-lit social occasions.

A 7D is still roughly half the price of a 5D. It's not a full-frame sensor, etc. I'm not saying it's not a nice camera, but professionals would see it as a back-up camera, not their main camera body.

Pros don't skimp on camera bodies because that's about 10-20% of what gets spent on equipment in a year.

One of my old backup camera bodies is a 40D. It has a pop-up flash built in. I've never used the built-in flash, and I bought it new 4 or 5 years ago.

One thing this conversation has led me to believe: there is probably more than one reason those bodies don't have a built-in flash.

But neither did a Pentax K1000, Canon AE-1, Olympus OM, or any other old inexpensive film SLR.

If you have a camera body with the flash and no budget for a high-end flash, invest $22 or so in this:

http://www.amazon.com/Gary-Fong-Diffuser-OLYMPUS-excluding/dp/B0011000R6/

It's a great little diffuser for those harsh pop-up flashes. I own a few of his products, and they're all wonderful. I've never owned this particular diffuser, but I have recommended it to folks that bought one and let me play with it. My neighbor's 14-year-old kid is getting some great results. I didn't have his talent when I was 14. He's gonna be awesome.

How big was the umbrella? Small plate? Large dinner plate? Regular-ish sized umbrella? The latter kind of sounds ridiculous.

Could it have been more of a strap-on octobox like these, or much larger and more boom-arm attachment oriented?

I think it gets up there is speed in Western parts of NE but I don't usually make it any where past 75.

I actually forgot about my D300. I've got one that /u/beav0901dm's GF might buy off me for cheap with a kit lens.

I've got one fixed lens (35mm if I recall correctly). I'd like to get a really nice 50mm at some point.

Do you shoot manual? How about lighting etc? I was thinking about picking up a flash but in the mean time got a diffuser for the shitty built in flash.

For macro this flash is all you will need "below", "there a cheaper alternatives out there, Amazon will give you a list, make sure they work with the camera you have before purchasing", it's on my macro lenses all the time, it does not mean though that I fire it off all the time "I set up one of the camera buttons that when pressed to dissable the flash from firing" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNUH5dCaLMU&list=PLDWvA0qQrZ290b_1j0f_t9Jfnu34TRJKx&t=0s&index=118 , if natural light is right there is no need, but if you want a nice sharp shot the more light the better "but don't overdue it". In the camera flash compensation settings your camera is set by default at 1/250s of a second, which means that you shutter speed will not exceed 1/250s of a second, I don't use this option, since I shoot in manual mode and like to control my shutter, f-stop, and EV settings myself, what you do is go into the Bracketing/flash exposure settings in your camera customs setting menu and change the Flash sync speed setting from 1/250s of a second to 1/250s (Auto FP), this will give you more creativity and help freeze the subject, which is crucial with insects that constantly move "the black wasp was shot at 1/500s shutter speed with no flash used", if you are new to using a flash just stick to 1/250s, then just experiment with the Auto PF mode until you figure out the right settings for the shooting conditions.

Sigma Ring Flash.

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-EM-140-Macro-Flash-Cameras/dp/B00064XR64?crid=PZ3KQIEG7QCA&keywords=sigma+ring+flash&qid=1540808499&sprefix=sigma+ring%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-5-fkmrnull&ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_5

​

You can also use a regular flash with a small soft box "flash diffuser" attached.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802?crid=3SV90PE13KBH8&keywords=softbox+for+speedlight&qid=1540810590&sprefix=soft+box+%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-5&ref=sr_1_5

Something like this could help your photos immensely in an outdoor setting with shade, in addition I think most of the photos were a tad underexposed. And a lot of the shots desperately needed fill light.

Place a softbox attachment on your external flash to soften the light and make it easier on the people you shoot. I know you don't want a flash but this seems to help.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Diffuser-Speedlites/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1468882130&sr=8-10&keywords=flash+softbox

Here's what I have as essentials:

External flash

Flash bracket

Flash cable

flash diffuser

Remote control (infrared or cabled)

Cleaning kit - both for lens and sensor.

You need to use modifiers, not just the bare flashes.

See if you can get alarge foldable reflector / diffuser combo. You need to learn more about strobes. Strobes are far more about modifying the light rather than the devices themselves.

You want off-camera flash and to get somediffuser caps or something like this for your flashes, tune power. You should be able to do simple lighting with 1 flash with diffuser and a reflector. Make sure you turn off all other lights and or get your flash the same color temperature as the lights to eliminate having multiple tones of light.

Alternatively you can just try and get the products in a room with ample light?

Best flash diffuser for travel? I'm headed to Mexico with the family and am taking my D7100 and a Yongnuo flash / transmitter. Should I get a small softbox? A flash bender? Something else? I don't have a lot of experience with flash but I don't want super hard shadows on my subjects. Most of the pictures will probably be outside but there will be some inside as well. I'll be aiming for natural light where possible but want to come out with some nice family photos. Needs to be small. Thanks!

Ohhhh I missed that it was your photo. But yeah, aiming the flash directly at your model and getting it closer will definitely harshen the shadows. Something good to play around with is flash gels like these or any other brand and diffusers Like this. I think a yellow/gold gel with the flash above (at say, a 45 degree angle maybe) and pointing directly at your model will get a similar look to #1 and adding that diffuser would, in my opinion, reduce the negative qualities of that type of light quite a bit. Definitely mess with sharpening as well.

If it were me, I like your picture much more than #2, but to each their own of course!

Hi all. I have a question about using a flash diffuser for taking close-up shots in poorly lit conditions. Is this the same as a ring flash?

I recently bought an Olympus 18TG5 for dental photography. Before that, I had been using the Canon EOS Rebel T3 since 2011, with a ring flash attachment on a macro lens. The new camera uses built-in LED lighting and has an automated feature for macro shots but I found that it did not eliminate the shadows as well. I've done some research on attachments that would be compatible with the TG5 and so far found these:

​

1. Olympus FD-1 Waterproof Flash Diffuser for TG-1, 2, 3, 4and 5
   
2. Olympus LED Light Guide (LG-1) for Olympus TG-1/2/3/4 and TG-5
   
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   I'm unsure of which would achieve the best results, or if there are other options out there. I've consulted several dental photography guides but none mention how to use flash with the TG5, even though it is on a list of recommended point & shoot cameras for intraoral photography. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Sorry kind of a joke name for them. Just a fabric diffuser similar to this.

Hi!
So I'm going to shoot my first wedding tommorow and have a few questions. It's my friends wedding and I'm not going to get paid, I'm also shooting just the ceremony at the church. It will be a small wedding.

Which of my lenses should i mainly use? My camera is Nikon D7100 and my lenses are Tokina 11-16 F/2.8, Nikon 35 F/1.8, Nikon 85 F/1.8 and Nikon 70-300 F/4.5-6.3. I also have this flash Metz 44 AF-2 flash and a 70cm reflector.

Can I shoot group photos with the Tokina at 16mm? Or will the distortion be too much? Anything else I should be careful about?
And I just remembered I don't actually have a dress shoes, they fell apart last time I used them. Can I just wear grey sneakers with a black suit? Please say yes.

the best one is the one that is not such a pain to use that you will actually use it, I tried all of them and always go back to this one tilted up to about 60 degrees https://www.amazon.com/Diffuser-Hot-Shoe-Camera-Godox-Diffusers/dp/B07GYMSRJ7/ref=sr_1_4?crid=L91BA4LZI8GJ&keywords=godox+diffuser&qid=1557941305&s=gateway&sprefix=godox+dif%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-4

Have you looked at the Rogue Flashbender stuff? Seems to be getting a lot of praise and is ver small and lightweight.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rogue-FlashBender-Large-Soft-Box/dp/B00SYIW06M/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540887829&sr=8-22-spons&keywords=flash+modifier&psc=1

Okay. Thanks. Does that go for soft boxes that go on speedlights as well? I'm looking at this one --> https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=sr_1_4?crid=24N7DTX2J8HWS&keywords=godox+v860ii+diffuser&qid=1550767520&s=electronics&sprefix=diffuser+v860%2Celectronics%2C126&sr=1-4

Yeah I've been thinking about making/buying something like that for using the pop-up flash when I don't have (or want to get out) the whole flash setup. Which honestly is fine for most field photography. I have a cheap collapsible softbox that I use with the flash and keep in my camera bag, but the lens-mounted one is probably better. Do you have a link for one of those?

Yeah, an umbrella is going to be too big to hand hold. If you are shooting insects in the wild my experience is there is a trade off between a big enough diffuser to get good looking light (bigger is better) and something that will be so big you will scare insects, or not be able to precisely control it and accidentally bump the bush or whatever you are next to.

I have these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017U0WM8
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Speedlight-Speedlite-600EX-RT-Panasonica/dp/B003Y322RO
They strap directly to the flash head, so you don't need anything else to attach them. It's not like an umbrella where you need a bracket to hold the umbrella to the flash.

No hood for macro like this. You will be so close to the subject that the hood would actually block light from the flash in some cases.

You may want to start with a flash bracket though. I use a [manfrotto 330B)[http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-330B-Bracket-Support-Heads-Black/dp/B001D2CW2I]. It will hold two flash heads but I just use one. The key thing is you need a bracket that lets you position the flash at an angle above the focal point of the lens.

Which reminds me, keep in mind you will probably shoot in manual focus mode. You turn the focus ring to the 1:1 (max) magnification and then move the camera by hand until your subject is in focus. And no matter how you focus, it takes steady hands to keep the very thin focal plane on your subject.

I don't know what your budget is, but if you want the L it's supposed to be nice. I don't know that the IS helps much given that you will be shooting with a flash (that should freeze any hand-shake motion in my opinion). If you might shoot with natural light then the IS would be critical, but I'm not sure how possible it would even be. Flash makes such a HUGE difference for sharpness of the image.

You may want to just get the non-L and if you fall in love with macro you can sell it and buy the L later. Or you may do like me and move toward the extreme 4:1 or 10:1 magnification stuff where the EF lens is useless anyway.

I purchased one of these
Will that work for a diffuser? Or too big?

And for the child one do you have any props to recommend? They want the shoot to be outdoors at a nice seawall nature Park.

Which lighting would look more natural, flash with a softbox pointed at the subject or a flash with a deflector attached "bouncing" at the subject?

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I was thinking about getting a film camera and the N8008s seems like a good choice, but I don't have any Nikon lenses, can anyone recommend a good cheap 50mm that would work on it? It's ok if its manual.

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In your opinion do you think a used GoPro Hero 2014 for like $60-$70 is worth it mainly for casual timelapses and some underwater footage?

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482506700&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+diffuser

This sounds like a great place for the Rogue Flashbender.

It takes a little getting used to, but can be extremely useful when you don't have good surfaces for bouncing, and don't want to use direct flash.

Get a soft box diffuser for your flash like this one. If you get a mounted flash (which most recommend), something like this will work well. I have the second one and it's great.

Try this for starters:

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Flash-Diffuser-430EXII-Speedlight/dp/B003Y09H8E

I have more complicated and effective solutions, but this is often my go-to because of the convenience.

Edit: I don't own that one but reviews look like it doesn't fit well. Maybe try another one.