Best car speaker tweeters according to redditors
We found 26 Reddit comments discussing the best car speaker tweeters. We ranked the 11 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 26 Reddit comments discussing the best car speaker tweeters. We ranked the 11 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
You're not going to be able to keep the cassette player. I'm sorry to break it to you, but for the same reasons you can't buy an 8-track player, you can no longer buy a cassette player. As pdb1795 said, you can always get a new stereo with CD/AUX, then use a walkman plugged into the AUX to play your tapes. But I suggest converting all your tapes to MP3 ASAP so they'll stop losing sound quality everytime you play them. Plus you'll be able to play those MP3s without a walkman on your new stereo.
New stereo (all harnesses and brackets included for free)
Amplifier
Wiring
Front Speakers
Subwoofer depends on how much bass you want and how much trunk space you're willing to sacrifice. It also sounds like you're getting it all installed professionally, which is a smart idea. So figure at least $250 for labor, likely more like $300.
Parts:
If you just want to plug it in without a battery, you can just use a cheap 12 power source like this one:https://www.amazon.com/inShareplus-Mounted-Switching-Connector-Adapter/dp/B01GD4ZQRS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2T2QLKKWS5A2A&keywords=12v+power+supply&qid=1569933646&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=12v+power%2Clawngarden%2C160&sr=1-4
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Total without lipo - $97, with battery power, add another $20. I bet if you get these parts of alibaba, you can save quite a bit of $$$
I use a recordable birthday card -
https://www.amazon.com/EZSound-Module-DIY-Audio-Cards/dp/B006HL1KAU
- and then run it through an amplifier -
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-TDA7297-15W-Amplifier-Component/dp/B00C4MT274/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=15w+amp+15w+amp+board&qid=1563417727&s=gateway&sr=8-3
- and then to a single or double motorcycle speaker set -
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Antimagnetic-Full-Range-Interference-Loudspeaker/dp/B01IN8YI4Y/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=15w+speaker&qid=1563417835&s=gateway&sr=8-3
- that I can trigger when an actor hits a button or performs an action.
These work pretty well, can work off of a battery pack for a r/c car, and can reproduce the exact sound over and over again. I'm in the process of converting more of the actor areas tot his type of system for our haunt so that the actors don't have to scream and yell.
Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99
[4 AWG amp kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RWK4CU-Copper-Complete-Installation/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550159767&sr=8-6&keywords=4+awg+amp+kit) - $49.95
9 wire - $24.95
Additional RCAs - $19.99
4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio
RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.
Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90
Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70
= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350
If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.
I would start by replacing the 2 small dash speakers. They are 3.5" but for some reason lack a tweeter. I replaced mine with some Infinity Ref. 2 ways and it really brightened up the soundstage.
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-REF3022CFX-Reference-Speakers-Edge-driven/dp/B01E4JWG6I?keywords=infinity+ref+3.5&qid=1538330991&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Thanks for your help, I have definitely learned a lot. I am slowly coming out of the rabbit hole of audio setups and facing reality. I went all crazy looking at DPSs and LOC and powerful amplifiers and it was fun but it was also overwhelming. In reality I don't need "superb" sound, I would be satisfied with "fairLy good".So I have come down to reality and now I am thinking about the below setup based around the Kicker Key amp. Im thinking 45W should be plenty of power compared to stock and also the hands free DSP setup is gonna be a godsend. I think I found a decent deal on older model Infinity speakers below.
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{FRONT & TWEETER} (planning to use the passive crossover for the tweeters)Infinity REF-6522EX Shallow-Mount 6-1/2 Inch Coaxial Car Speakers ($43.99)https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FUZV7ZG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1
{BACK}Infinity REF6520CX 2-Way Component System ( With Edge-Driven Textile Tweeters) ($83.95 )https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E62D7BQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1M2AR6046TFJG&psc=1
{AMP} (The speakers are 3 ohm, though the Kicker Amp is 4 ohms, but based on other threads it should be all right)Kicker KEY180.4 ($199.99)https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KEY1804/Kicker-KEY180-4.html
{AMP WIRING KIT} ($14.99)Crutchfield CK12https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK12/Crutchfield-CK12.html
{SPEAKER BRACKETS} (not sure if I really need these as it says that I will need to drill new holes for the screws anyway)Scosche SAC-656 Multipurpose Speaker Mounting Brackets (2 x 12.99)https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAC656/Scosche-SAC-656-Multipurpose-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html
{SPEAKER HARNESS} (2 x 9.99)Metra 72-7300 Speaker Wiring Harnesseshttps://www.crutchfield.com/p_120727300/Metra-72-7300-Speaker-Wiring-Harnesses.html
{SUBWOOFER} ??(I am yet to look - though I figured I can do this in two steps)
Total $388.88 + tax
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Questions:- What do you think?- I should still be able to control the volume using the stock HU volume knob correct?
-What dampening do you recommend as a basic thing while I have the car open?
'03 Sahara
I bought this JVC headunit for when I upgrade to a 5 channel amp. 22rms 50peak x 4channels. 6 channel preamp output. I had crutchfield make my wiring harness.
I tried to match the speakers I bought to the regular output of the headunit and will upgrade them when I get an amp.
I replaced the knee panel and roll bar speakers with these Skar 5.25" speakers. 22w rms 75 peak each, 90db sensitivity. I had to use adapter brackets for the knee panel speakers. All speakers/brackets worked with stock hardware and covers. Used speaker baffles on the knee panel speakers, cut them down and siliconed them on. I used low volume door threshold foam along the edge of the pod speakers to seal it.
I added these Skar 1" tweeters to the dash corners. 20rms 80peak each, 88db sensitivity. They are at the bottom corners of my windshield screwed into the trim panel. I soldered them to the knee panel speakers in parallel. They were an afterthought, so I'm not sure if the wiring matches power-wise but they play music.
I replaced the stock subwoofer with this Skar 6.5" DVC subwoofer. 200rms 400peak, 83.1db sensitivity. It's wired at 1 ohm to the stock amp and supposedly getting 75w (rms/peak idk). The stock enclosure required heavy modification for the speaker to fit, lots of breaking, melting, and shaping of the plastic housing and center console. Used high volume foam to seal around the speaker. I get a good bit of distortion at high volume, plan on getting an amp to tune separate.
The sound is clear enough to hear with doors/top off going +60mph.
The tweeters are https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-TWS-01-Neodymium-Tweeters/dp/B01HQRAMTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549045734&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silk+tweeter&dpPl=1&dpID=51rO9aXoLwL&ref=plSrch
I used these and they’re fantastic. Decent bass with crisp mids and highs.
Infinity REF-6522EX Shallow-Mount 6-1/2 Inch Coaxial Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FUZV7ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lB2lDbH0TX6S3
Alright. My budget isn't much, leaning towards 100-150. These are what i'm eyeing, infinity, JL, and JBL.
So you definitely simplified it for me and it seems like a component setup would be easier?
I'm seeing it as connect harness to crossover to speaker and tweeter?
Thanks for the tips! I found an adapter that Crutchfield thinks will work and found these for a decent price on Amazon but I still worry about getting them to fit since I won't be doing the install... I guess I shouldn't worry since Crutchfield is pretty good at what they do but I don't want to have whoever does the install to not be able to complete it because they don't fit and then still charge me a labor fee.
As far as I can tell, you can fit 6 1/2" speakers in the front doors with a bracket. That ' 3 1/2" ' speaker you're looking at in the door might actually be something odd-ball like 2 1/2". The rear deck is indeed 6 1/2", not sure where you got 4" from.
If you have the Harman Kardon audio system you might have a couple shallow-depth 6x9s in the trunk under the rear deck, but even so I'd leave those alone.
Start with the front. I'd go with this. The woofers are 3 ohm impedance, and your OEM woofers are either 2 or 3 ohms. If you get something that's 4 ohms you're going to lose some power. (This is irrelevant if you're doing something with the head unit / amp though)
Edit: You can snag that Infinity component set on Amazon for $70 cheaper, but I think you'll need to buy the mounting brackets separately
I do not have rear deck speakers. but as long as you know the speaker size, speaker impedance of your factory speaker, you can find a replacement in amazon. these are the bass blockers i have used. I think for tweeters you are better off buying 3.5" speakers like Infinity REF3022CFX or something similar and modify the brackets, as in cutting the outer brackets of the speakers with Dremel so the holes in speaker lines up with the frame. you will find some posts in forums about people doing it. this is the one I ordered Pioneer subwoofer. this is not as easy as replacing factory speakers, because most subwoofer will need their own power cable to route from the battery. also plug the rca and remote wire in the back of the head unit then route them back to the speaker at the trunk. for now, do some online search and forum reading, to see what other owners of your car model have used to upgrade their speakers.
(((post is also for Zack V, who is building a system right now in his truck)))
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I want to focus mainly on the upper front speakers, let's say you've got 3.5's up in the dash.
But first lets get a recommendation out of the way for the 6x9's: Run them on an amp.
On the amp for the 6x9's, likely wire 4-channel amp mounted somewhere under the glovebox where it won't get kicked by someone's feet.
Then a set of speaker wires from the dash head unit and back up to the head unit to splice into the wiring harness adapter that was purchased for the head unit, this will feed the speakers their power instead of the head units own speaker output without having to run any new wiring to each speaker, which should be just fine if you are not going over 300 watts peak (or over 50 watts RMS per channel, 200 watts RMS total, or 450 watts max, peak is usually 50% over RMS, MAX is usually 200% to 250% over RMS). So you can safely go up to a 450-watt amp easily as long as you're not running it at max full volume 100% all the time, which you won't because you'll go deaf in no time. Most newer vehicles stock wiring (although thinner) is of high enough quality to handle this with no problems (50-Watts RMS).
The amp will have to have a "high-level input" for this to work (just don't use the RCA connectors for this task unless the stock radio has the low output option for them, which isn't likely). You will likely only find the less expensive amplifiers with this option, as most setups replace the head unit first (aftermarket head units provide the low level RCA outputs designed for use with amplifiers).
As for the 3 1/2 speakers in the dash, this is going to be the hardest thing to understand but they are actually full range and set the "sound stage" for the vocal part of the music. Putting in tweeters only (without full or mid-range) will kill your sound stage entirely and make your vocals sound very flat, especially if your 6x9's are lower in the doors by the feet.
Most importantly is to match them to the head unit, meaning you want to get the highest clean volume with the minimum wattage, for example: (and I just researched this) the best pair on the market without an amp will be something like the Infinity Reference 3022cfx 3.5" and here's why: you get 91db of "pure, clean sound" (due to low end Bass Blocker built in so you don't blow out such a small speaker) but all that sound comes from only 25-watts of power! (Can handle up to 75 peak if the head unit puts that much out or you want to add a second 2-channel amp) but that combined with a very high signal to noise ratio will give plenty of volume without needing an amp, and this is one of the only component speakers of this size that comes in a 3-ohm configuration which will give it some added oomf due to higher power draw at lower volumes (meant to compensate for the other speakers running on an amp). If you check out all the other offerings on the market, you'll see a lower sensitivity, higher RMS power requirement, narrower frequency range, much higher price, and in some cases ALL of these factors at once!
Others like the JL Audio C2-350x, JBL GTO329, and Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 all have very limiting factors such as high power requirements, needing a second 2-channel amp, or low signal to noise ratio, needing a second amp, or specifically the JL's may sound flat due to a limited higher frequency range (like tweeters only), the JBL's will be drowned out by the sheer volume of the 6x9's with the 3.5" JBL's having such a high RMS power requirement they will literally sound "quiet" compared to the 6x9's without their own amp, and the Rockford Fosgate 3.5's have both a lower sensitivity and flatter frequency response. I know it's only a few hertz (85 to 120) but that to me makes all the difference on the vocal sound stage when there's a low male voice singing such as Eddie Vedder, Johnny Cash, Jim Morrison, etc... (at least to me I hear a difference, it could be psychological but that's a whole other category of postings).
Keep in mind you can spend OVER $1000 (without buying an amp) on 3 & 1/2 inch speakers & Signal Processor & Shipping chasing top quality, but this isn't the goal here today, for right now you want your price range of the whole speaker system around $500.
Of course if you're only streaming Pandora or Spotify don't bother for highest quality as the high ranges all get garbled to audio compression so there's no point, just go with whatever cheapest speakers won't give distortion at moderately high volumes.
Don't forget the wiring adapters! This was my favorite part for not having to cut the factory speaker connectors and they're usually under $3 each Example: Speaker Harness for $5.62 / pair.
I hope this helps you make a decision. Personally I like the vocals in music the most so I may sound a little passionate on the topic of setting the sound stage.
Had fun building this with my 11 yo as a gift for college freshman. Here's what we used:
8" sched 40 PVC pipe
PVC cement
Talentcell 12v lithium battery
2.1 Bluetooth receiver / amp
12v to 24v booster
Skar 8" dual voice coil sub wired as 4ohm
Infiity 6.5" reference speakers 8ohm
Mats to isolate 6.5" speakers, and this
Passive raidators (semi-sealed enclosure), and this
Rifle swivels and sling, and this
Mounting feet
Clamps for main plate
Finished it in a truck bed liner spray in black on round PVC surfaces and a metallic gray on the faceplate.
One of the tricks was to create a flat faceplate from the PVC by cutting the 8" pipe section, cooking 15 mins at 300F, then flatenning it out with weight / pressure. Next time, I would prob sub a different material for the faceplate just to make it easy.
If I could do it over again, I'd use a thinner PVC pipe. Standard Sched 40 in 8" weights a lot... 5lb / foot plus very heavy end caps that I used to surround both sides. Probably 20 lbs of PVC alone.
Also, struggle to get the thing to be truly enclosed. Significant air escapes around the perimeter of the faceplate despite applying clamp force and a bit of dynamat.
Sounds great though! 18 yo kid loved it! Lots of tight bass and this amp puts out good sound with the right power/amps feeding it. Sorry not an audiophile so not testing results to share.
So I don't really need to worry about what I get? I honestly don't want to have to run wires, splice and take apart panels right now. Just trying to get some decent sounding speakers to replace the 13 year old ones that are starting to distort. I saw some Good Infinity Speakers on Amazon that I was looking at along with the Metra connections to make it easy to connect without needing to splice or strip cables.
I understand I won't be getting any resounding bass but the speakers in there (before getting wobbly) was good enough for me. Still using stock everything because I am a firm believer of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Well now it's broke and needs fixing.
how bout vifa?
or.. these badboys
ignoring the brand, they look beefy as hell
i'll be quiet now...
For sure- these should be the parts you need (Looks like they're on sale as well), but check at the bottom of the page to confirm they're for the higher-end version of your specific model/year:
Right Tweeter/Trim Panel
Left Tweeter/Trim Panel
Apparently the factory tweeters suck pretty bad, and I wasn't even aware the trim pieces included the tweeters so I never bothered trying them since I had already ordered aftermarket Polk db1001 tweeters that (as far as I'm aware) are the only confirmed aftermarket tweeters that fit perfectly in the trim pieces. Also, my trim pieces came with factory tweeters included but there's a chance they sent me the tweeters in error and it was only supposed to come with just the trim pieces since I couldn't find anything that mentions the tweeters being included.
Polk db1001 tweeters
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions, and
here's a useful thread on CivicX.com for more info