Best lab refractometers according to redditors

Beekeeper here. The article doesn’t say it’s not honey because it certainly is. The issue is when it’s uncapped it means there is more water in it. The author is spot on but he doesn’t quantify this and that may help. If water content is 19% or above it will ferment. What we do is harvest the uncapped in moderation, check with the shake method and not harvest those, or harvest it all and then dehydrate the honey afterwards. We use a refractometer (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWAFVVN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZRbQBbJA3WSAX)
to measure the sum moisture content. Most of the time if you harvest mostly capped that moisture level (about 16%) makes up for the 19%+ you may get. Even if it’s above 19% it’s still honey that will start to ferment over time. Still edible but you get that smell over time. It hasn’t happened to me because I frankly stress out over getting this right :-)

My recommendation would be to save up for a digital refractometer. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-MA871-Digital-Refractometer/dp/B007Z4IN58

I hate reading the dumb blue/white line separation and it doesn't seem that accurate to me. I eventually ditched it for the digital and I think the hydrometer would be just as accurate as the analog refractometer.

That being said I don't think there would be much difference between those two other than mark up.

Brix Refractometer. It'll tell you percent dissolved solids. Do it before and after brew to determine alcohol. I believe that will work like it does in beer to some degree.

https://www.amazon.com/GuDoQi-Refractometer-Alcohol-Scale-Homebrew/dp/B07FD33MB7/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=REFRACTOMETER&qid=1567119427&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=industrial&sr=1-3

You can't measure accurately when the wort is that far out of the calibration range. You need a refractometer, preferably one that says ATC (Automatic Temperature Compensation). A regular one will run you about $30. If you want to make your life easier and money really isn't an issue, get a digital refractometer.

Two questions. First, I bought this pH meter. Reviews seemed generally positive, but I found even having it sit still in calibrating solution for an hour it jumps around SO much which seemed to make it unusable. Is this common? Are there other products that zero in on a pH value better and don't cost a fortune?

Second, I bought this refractometer. Seemed to work very well for OG measurement as compared to my hygrometer. Can someone clarify, can I use this for later SG measurements? Based on discussion, I must use the Brix scale, then convert to SG?

Refractometer deal will start at 6pm

Modern Homebrew Recipes Book will start around 730pm

I used to just let it settle in the graduated cylinder I use. But I just invested in one of the best tools (and biggest time savers) I have ever bought... A Refractometer

I got my first runnings gravity (AG) and pre-boil OG in a matter of 15 seconds each... tops. My post boil was just as easy. Just a drop on it, slap it shut and look.. BAM! I got the Brix only model as I have heard it is slightly more accurate and I jsut do the conversions using a chart or online calculator.

Honestly, I am cheap and hate dropping loads of money of things but this was an amazing buy. No more fussing with taking samples and waiting for things to cool, pre-fermentation. After I pitch yeast I revert to the hydrometer as the presence of alcohol messes up refractometer readings.

I think I paid about $50 for my refractometer. I use a hydrometer for OG and take a reference reading with the ref. Then I use the refractometer for taking measurements to see when fermentation is done. The refractometer reading will level out. Then I'll take an FG with my hydrometer. So I don't need to fill my graduated cylinder for times that I'm not sure if fermentation is complete.

This was more important when I was doing one gallon brews. A couple samples and your down a whole bunch of beer.

This is the one I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJYN3OS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
About $30

Here's what I've found so far. The search continues...

Refractometer with Brix + SG scales - $19 Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

5 gallon No Chill cube - $11.50 Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

pH Meter (starts 3:15pm) Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

40x-1000x Microscope (starts 3:50pm) Brülosophy link | non-affiliate link

Cool add-ons to the Brooklyn Brew Shop 1G kits (which I liked):

• Refractometer !! You won't want to take a hydrometer sized sample of a 1 gallon batch, after you have pitched yeast. IF you are like me you want to know whats going on with your brew, and take gravity readings at the beginning and end to find out how your yeast did. Also to make sure its ready to bottle. Anyway, its just way too much beer to take out and put back in or otherwise lose if you are using a hydrometer and test jar. Alternatively a Refractometer takes only a few drops of beer to measure, even though you have to correct for the presence of alcohol.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Beer-Wort-Wine-Refractometer-Scale/dp/B006GG0TDK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398314617&sr=8-3&keywords=refractometer+dual+scale
  
  
• You probably want a mini auto siphon , tubing, and a spring loaded bottling wand to fit your tubing. This makes getting the beer out of your 1 gallon jug pretty effortless. Anything like the below will make your bottling day soooooo much easier.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Fermtech-MINI-Mini-Auto-Siphon/dp/B0064ODL1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398314371&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+auto+siphon
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Brewcraft-Fermtech-Plastic-Bottle-Filler/dp/B0064OEE9O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398314427&sr=8-2&keywords=bottling+wand
  
  
• Just go ahead and buy some starsan for sanitizing. Much easier than the powder they give in the kits, I got something in my kit that must be rinsed out before bottling or getting beer on it. (not good to drink).
  
  Starsan you don't have to rinse off, and it really helps you to be confident in your sanitizing abilities.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Five-Star-FS_SS_16-San--16oz/dp/B00FA86OZ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398314939&sr=8-3&keywords=star+san
  
  
• You need a bottle capper and caps. Winged capper works fine and pretty easy to figure out.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Bottle-Capper-Red-Baron-Homebrew/dp/B000Q6ARMY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398315533&sr=8-1&keywords=bottle+capper
  
  
  
• Also, you really need 3 kettles for an easy time doing the BBS kits. 8 quarts is a good size. 1 for mashing, one more to pour it all out over the strainer to collect the wort, and a 3rd one ready to go with boiled, heated water if you need to top up before the boil. I suppose you could get away with 2 if you do kind of a "Brew In a Bag" method. They say 2 is 'recommended' but I say that 3 pots is pretty much necessary the way they write the instructions.
  
  
• Have somewhere to keep the beer at the right temperature. BBS said 70 degrees F was fine. Yes it will make beer. Keeping it constant is supposed to make a big difference, even if a lot of people say you need to ferment around 64F.
  
  http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/fermentation-temperature-control-440670/
  
  Anyway, enough. Don't overthink it. Those kits are so freaking easy to do, my first batch turned out pretty drinkable despite some temperature screw ups during mashing.
  
  You can watch homebrewfinds.com for deals on any items I listed, and you can even better, get them from your local home brew shop.
  
  Note, if you think you want to do bigger batches later, the mini auto-siphon and any tiny kettles are going to be a waste of money... the refractometer, starsan, capper, etc. will still be quite useful.

For $15.00 more you should get this instead of the hydrometer: https://www.amazon.com/Deepwater-Aquatics-Refractometer-Reading-Salinity/dp/B00FEKLXZC/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466471322&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=aquartium+refractometer

i bought this one and its spot on

For quick reads during runoff, I've been happy with the Milwaukee digital refractometer. Cheap, fast read and accurate enough to keep an eye on gravity before kettle full:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z4IN58/

Beer and science you say! I have a few recommendations for you then.
The essential book to beginning homebrewing is John Palmer's How to Brew. This dives right into the science and explains things clearly for a beginner.

And what is science without some equipment! For the scientist there is a nice refractometer that can be used to measure the gravity of your beer and use that to calculate the ABV%.
Also, ever beer scientist needs to keep track of what they are working on. How about picking up a brewer's journal.

Maybe you want a more DIY project to get into it. How about a home made mash paddle? They are easy to make and it's something that you two can design and make together.

Since he most likely doesn't have a kit, stop on over to Northern Brewer and check out some of the starter kits.

There are also options for wine, mead and cider so no matter what your taste you can get something that you two can enjoy together. I love brewing and my wife helps out. We get to spend time together and create tasty drinks.

These may not be the most original choices but the clues you've given us really lend to a hobby I'm very passionate about. Hope this helps and if either of you have any questions about gear or brewing etc... feel free to drop me a line.

It's ok. A couple extra bucks for brand new:
http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Temperature-Compensating-Refractometer-REFRACTOMETER/dp/B002ISDQ0S/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1420745572&sr=8-8&keywords=refractometer

I have this one. It works well. You can even measure the brix of honey (although I'm skeptical that actually works well).

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Refractometer-Automatic-Compensation-Resolution/dp/B007Z4IN58

I use my hydrometer 90% of the time cause I make 5 gallon batches but I have found this useful for measuring the sugar in my fruit.

If you ever decide to go fancy and get a refractometer..

http://amzn.com/B00OJYN3OS

I use this, its not temp compensating.. But if you have a smart phone you can get the compensations online. Worked great and spot on with most recent brew when compared to hydro.

I have 5 outdoors this year and currently 6 inside. I start feeding around 300 from clone and gradually move up to about 1000-1200 until veg, flush well then back to 1000 and by the end of bud I'm usually just under 2000 ppm's. I grow in cocoa/soil outside but inside I grow all Hydro.
Look up brix and buy a brix refractor (they are really cheap, https://www.amazon.com/Anpro-Brix-Refractometer-Beer-Scale/dp/B01M1GLSSF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502206544&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=brix+refractometer&psc=1 ), there are tutorials on youtube. This will tell you the sugar content of your plant.

You could find a cheap refractometer on Amazon or something - if you're looking for actual homebrewing equipment to get them: https://www.amazon.com/Anpro-Brix-Refractometer-Beer-Scale/dp/B01M1GLSSF/ref=lp_393272011_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1480715586&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

Depends on the yeast. Most wine yeast has an alcohol tolerance of 14%+. You can use this calculator here. This assumes you know how sweet your grapes are. Do you use a hydrometer or refractometer to measure the sweetness of your grapes or the must before you pitch the yeast?

Using the calculator you would 1) check the Target Volume box and enter 2 gallons, 2) check the first ingredients (Additional Sugars #1) box and enter grapes (15.9% sugar is default which is okay to start with, but good wine grapes picked at peak sugar can be 19-25% sugar), 3) check the box for Additional Sugar #2, enter honey and put in cups. Click anywhere else will calculate the Target Gravity (leave unchecked). Using your numbers, potential alcohol is only 11% and most wine yeast will ferment that bone dry (ie not sweet at all).

Hard to say how much additional honey to add to get a sweet wine without knowing your grape sugar content. If your grapes are 16% sugar, 6 cups of honey will raise the potential to 16% alcohol if the yeast consume all the sugar, but often they stall around 14%, leaving residual sugar. With 6 cups of honey
, the starting gravity might be 1.124, as read by a hydrometer.

At the bottom of the calculator is "Potential Alcohol Conversion". Here you would enter 1.124 as the start, and keep supplying numbers in the finishing gravity until the alcohol is ~14%, and that number would be 1.018, which is on the high end of semisweet/low end of sweet wine.

THis is not hard and fast as yeast will sometime go over their declared alcohol tolerance (leaving you with a dry and very boozy wine), or below the tolerance for a number of reasons, leaving you with a a really sweet and lower than 14% alcohol wine.

So the question is, do you know what kind of grapes you have and do you measure the sweetness?

I use this one from amazon. And this article explains what aroma oil is. I highly recommend you read the whole series of ramen articles on the site

I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AOCKWMU

It seems to work and I am not sure what a higher priced refractometer would do differently. There are a lot of different "models" on Amazon that look like they came out of the same factory.

This is all good advice.

BRS is your friend right now. You can get man made dry rock, a BRS RODI (and you really should get an RODI, lugging water from the LFS just sucks).

I'm sure they have a refractometer like /u/fp4 linked. I went best rather than better and got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-MA887-Refractometer-Temperature-Compensation/product-reviews/B007Z4ITWU though you can find it cheaper that was just the first google result. It's a worthwhile upgrade. It's just always right. Always.

And Sump vs HOB is a no brainer, sump. every time.

I have one of the cheaper $30~ Amazon Refractometer and have had no issues with it. I test my display and the new water to make sure they match beforehand.

If want to spend the money for a good salinity checker, go digital and grab one of these instead:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z4ITWU

Prices depend on where you live. I got 230 gal tank for around CND $250, new, while CaribSea live sand (bagged) was over CND $60.

Live sand and live rocks, especially not from the wild or bagged, but from another established tank, even a little, are better.

Hardware is up to you, you you already know names of choice, we can say more. I used Koralia and Maxi-Jet powerheads for a flow. And I would use a filter, at least for mechanical filtration.

Lights are tricky, depends on what particular fixture you will be using, just price is not enough. Intensity, spectrum, colors are more important.

LR costs much, much more.

If air pump is for mixing water, water pump could be better. If air pump, you will need air tubing, air diffuser and a check valve, if pump could get below water level.

Refractometer with scale 35 ppt salinity and 1.025 specific gravity, and a calibrating solution for it would be better.

Test kits you will need: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, KH (most important) and later Ca and Mg. This is much more than $20. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and KH tests are the same for FW and SW, only color cards are different and both are included in the same test kit.

Marine pellets with high krill content are enough for a start, later you can buy SW frozen food or DIY.

I see RO water missing from the list and there is dechlorinator. Are you planning to use tap water? This could be a problem.

Mind that this is a starting cost, it will grow and grow and grow later.

>I'd skip on the refractometer - they're flashy but not always reliable.

I got this one at $18.99 shipped.

I calibrate it every brew day, and test it against my (also calibrated every brew day) hydrometer. Have never had different readings, except due to my own ignorance one time. I only do the hydrometer pre-boil, because sanitation isn't really an issue. Beyond that I refrac all the way and love it. Couple drops = easypeasy.

Personally I recommend a refractometer or a mini hydrometer. The amount of beer loss for doing multiple readings adds up when you're only brewing 1 gallon in the first place. A refractometer literally uses drops of liquid. Just make sure to use the brix reading for post fermentation as alcohol throws off the gravity side.

Do i NEED a RO/DI system?

Is this a good Refracto?

And i assume this would be the test kit id use?

Here's what I use. It works wonderfully. You have to convert from brix to TDS, but that's just a multiplication by .8455 to save hundreds of dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Refractometer-Automatic-Compensation-Resolution/dp/B007Z4IN58/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414704702&sr=8-2&keywords=brix+digital+refractometer

Batches are in the range of 5-5.5 after starter’s been added and go down to roughly 4.75-5 by the time I halt first fermentation.

I use this meter: https://smile.amazon.com/Refractometer-Low-Concentrated-Solutions-Synthetic-Machining/dp/B07FQFQ49T?ref_=bl_dp_s_mw_10924709011

Make sure you get the one for measuring sugars- there’s other ones that look similar for salinity and SG.

I think what you have there is a refractometer calibrated to measure alcohol by volume in distilled spirits. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Refractometer-Measurement-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B018LSMI34

So what you're reading there is not potential alcohol. You may be able to calibrate it with sucrose solutions, as you suggest. But you might be better off just getting one calibrated in proper Brix units. They are not terribly expensive anymore.

Getting different readings in my refractometer and my standard 'floatie' hydrometer.

So it's about time to bottle my beer and went to check my fg. Decided to use the refractometer I just purchased (Magnum Media DUAL SCALE 0-32% Brix and 1.000-1.130SG Wort Refractometer RSG-100ATC) from amazon. It gave me a reading of 1020 (brix 5%) which is way too high considering its a blonde ale and og was at about 1035. Waited another day and got the same reading so I took out my hydrometer and it gave me a reading of 1008 which is around what I was expecting.

I calibrated the refratometer with distilled water. Any ideas what could be wrong? Did I just get a lemon or is it a cheap model? Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CO9BX6U/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly I don't know, I'm still learning how to use it. This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006GG0TDK?pc_redir=1413858420&robot_redir=1

Holy shit, I think you solved it! I did use a refractometer, and it was my first time using it! I never knew that you had to correct for alcohol, but that makes total sense!

Using the other scale on my refractometer, it looks like I went from 12.75 Brix to 8 Brix.

I just tried this calculator at brewersfriend. My OG of 12.75 Brix with a correction factor of 1.0 gives a corrected OG of 12.75 degrees Plato. If I plug that number in, and use a FG of 8, keeping the correction factor as-is, I get 4.58%. Still a bit low, but definitely respectable! (given that I wanted something without too high of an alcohol content)

Am I doing it right?

I bought a Magnum Media refractometer. Figured it was half off so why not. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO9BX6U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CO9BX6U&linkCode=as2&tag=hombrefin-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018LSMI34?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

if you are doing 1 gal kits then get a refractometer. (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008562GD0) It uses less of the beer to take a measurement. I use this calculator to convert from brix to SG - it includes correcting for alcohol since it factors in the OG to the calculations. THere is also a spreadsheet available. http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/

Yeah it really really helps with slushy drinks. A refractometer helps a ton for locking down a recipe for perfect slush.

I got this one. Haven't had a chance to brew again with it yet, but I'll check that out before I start

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OJYN3OS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Ice cream is chemistry. You have to test the amount of water in rhubarb if you are going to get it right and avoid ice, and you need to also use a stabilizer like xantham gum or guar gum + an exact calculation of sugar to balance the freezing temperature of the water. You can use a refractometer to test the water level of the rhubarb (it will always change). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008562GD0/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bQc80x_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=CASB0D5HB110TZ3KMYVP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=f7e00e61-c7da-537f-bf2c-085c9051d19f&pf_rd_i=393272011

I got one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBL2G0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i03

I have yet to use it because I'm moving soon, so I figured I'd wait to start my next brew until after the move, but it's highly rated and seems to have a solid build.

Of course it's also a bit more expensive, but not murder :P

Digital refractometer. Once you calibrate your specific unit in Beersmith, you can even use it during/after fermentation. All you need is a few drops.

Or, if you have a few thousand dollars, you can buy a digital specific gravity meter. A guy in my brew club has one that he acquired because his work was throwing them out. So. Jealous.

Part of me wants to get one of these. 0-90% Brix Meter Refractometer,V-Resourcing Portable Hand Held Sugar Content Measurement for Sugar, Food, Fruit, Beverages Honey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722K7D8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TAKwDbBCM3WAV .

There's also brewing device called a brix meter or refractometer that is more exact than a hydrometer but still prob won't work below 1% however if you read the questions here somebody seems to think it will work with kombucha https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M1GLSSF/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_199_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=J5D89Y20MWAFZ1A2Z1MV&dpPl=1&dpID=61Zzbmzh1%2BL

Ugh! SORRY!! Here is the one that reads brix. again, apologies for posting the wrong one.

EDIT: I corrected the link in the comment above.

I use a milwaukee digital refractometer, and keep it pretty well calibrated, so i dont think it's likely that i'm getting a bad reading. It reads %Brix and then I convert that to SG to calculate ABV.

I have tasted it, and it is damn good! I just don't want to jump the gun and it end up too sweet (and not strong enough).

I picked up this kit for a little under $100 after shipping. If you are not on an extreme budget then spend the extra penny and get this one. The nice thing about these kits as well, is that they give you a recipe for your first batch so you dont have to buy one on the side. It took about a week to show up and like /u/rumham1985 said you'll need to get a kettle with a lid (depending on if the kettle comes with it) and if you want to know the ABV (Alcohol By Volume) you can pick up a hydrometer and tube or refractometer.

Listed are the other items I picked up aside from the starter kit:

• 24 qt stock pot
  
  
• Lid for 24qt stock pot
  
  
• Refractometer
  
  If you have Amazon Prime you can get free 2 day shipping on those products. If you are currently a college student you get 6 months of free prime service so take advantage of that if you can.
  
  In the near future I will be investing on supplies to build a wort chiller using this tutorial which shouldnt cost more than 30$ and maybe after that work up on buying a mini fridge and temperature controller to help keep a stable fermenting temperature.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LSMI34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is what I purchased. no RI or BRIX

Ah okay , i was thinking about picking up a refractometer , what do you think ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWAFVVN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mDazDbHDEBNT1

I have this one. Works good. You have to convert brix to SG which not really an issues. Pretty much Brix=Plato so I just think of it that way now.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Refractometer-Automatic-Compensation-Resolution/dp/B007Z4IN58/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468898926&sr=8-2&keywords=digital+refractometer

I still use a hydrometer for FG for the reasons others stated

You can use a refractometer instead of a hydrometer to get readings of Brix or standard gravity. That will tell you when your beer is done and only uses a couple of drops.

I may be in the minority here, but I think a good kit for you would be a Mr. Beer kit. They cost less than $50 from Amazon. The beer that is included will not be mind blowing, but you will probably still enjoy it. The fermentor is said to brew 2 gallons at a time, but you can fit 2.5 gallons safely. If you buy your ingredients from a LHBS, they will make kits for 2.5 gallons. The better ingredients will make a much better beer. It has worked really well for me so far.

A refractometer essentially does the same thing as the hydrometer, but they're much quicker to work with. I have one and love it... it's a great suggestion.

There's Northern Brewer link above, but I'd recommend Amazon for a way better price: Amazon

EDIT: Just saw in another post that you're Canadian (me too!) so let me point you in a local direction: HopDawgs

And this is why I now use a digital refractometer

Kombucha is fairly forgiving, but the following might help:

• The biggest thing you can do to improve your kombucha is to use filtered water. Buy it filtered in bulk or install an inline filter.
  
• I find it easier to buy loose-leaf tea and a kitchen scale to measure our tea than to count tea bags, but YMMV. The loose leaf can go into a nylon mesh bag like a giant tea bag.
  
• Keep an eye on the temperature of the water that you use to brew your sweet tea - it should be well below boiling to avoid burning the tea leaves. With the 80/20 mix of green/black tea, I try to steep it at 170F for 10 minutes.
  
• Start 1F with a lot of kombucha starter - almost 1 gallon for the 5 gallon batch is a good place to start to make sure the scoby is nice and active. At a minimum, you should be using a half gallon of starter for that size batch.
  
• I like keeping track of the progress of my batches over time (pH, brix, and total acidity). If you feel similarly, get a pH meter, brix refractometer, and a total acidity titration testing kit (I just use some NaOH solution and the pH meter). I'm still trying to figure out a convenient setup for testing that provides a reasonable estimate of alcohol...
  
• Depending on the temperature in your brewing area, you may want to invest in a heating mat and thermostat that can keep the 1F at a consistent temperature. If you use one, wrap it around the sides of the bucket to make sure that both the yeast (which tends to sink) and the bacteria (which tends to float) benefit from its effects. Placing the bucket on top of the heating mat may lead to a kombucha batch that tastes heavily of yeast.
  
• When it comes time for 2F, there are a few options for moving your batch:
  
  • Pour it out: simple, but potentially messy
    
  • Ladle it out: simple, but time-consuming
    
  • Install a bottling spigot: very useful, but it creates the potential for leaks and it can get plugged up with yeast
    
  • Use gravity and an auto-siphon: a little difficult to understand the first time, but after that it's the best solution
    
    I hope that helps :)

refractometer

products i love:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z4ITWU/ref=sxr_rr_xsim1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI-755-Colorimeter/dp/B005FH2O6G/ref=pd_sim_328_91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8MKR3X0JC3JK0MJA969X

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Sea-Reef-Foundation-Test/dp/B004FUJ5NE/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1482730008&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=red+sea+test+kit

Well you can measure the honey with a refractometer and then calculate how much water you need to add to reach the SG you're aiming for.

Like this https://www.amazon.com/Refractometer-Moisture-Molasses-Keeping-Supplies/dp/B01LWAFVVN

I’d say pH meter. It’s easy enough to just hand shake an extra growler ever few hours for your yeast starts, it’s worked great for me. Don’t waste it on the refractometer, you should for sure have refractometer but you can get the same one for lads than half the price off amazon. Beerbrew Brix Refractometer for Homebrew Beer Wort, OAKEEY Dual Scale Automatic Temperature Compensation 0-32% Specific Gravity Hydrometer with ATC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC4VDMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4B2WCb8Z42Q19

Spectrometer: $13,125 - A device for measuring wavelengths of light over a wide range of the electromagnetic spectrum.

Refractometer: $30 - Used to determine the sugar content in a liquid.

I got mine off amazon for like 30 bucks. Don't believe its a cure all for gravity issues. I think mine has been wrong as well. Did you really use a pound of lactose?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO9BX6U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fwiw, I got this refractometer for 75% off and free shipping http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006GG0TDK/ref=ya_aw_oh_pit

yeah thats a pretty decent one to purchase, just make sure to check at what temperature its calibrated for and what elevation as those will affect your results. It's nice that it also has an approximate ABV% added on to it, but I'd still always check your math just to be sure.

As far as when to measure - always measure your must before pitching, measure when you think its finished or when its at the SG you want to stop it at for your recipe, or when you add anything to the must/brew as you'll need those SG#'s to calculate your new SG based on the mixing (like if you add a gallon of water to it for exmaple). Or, whenever you feel like it lol.

You might also want to consider picking up a refractometer, they're cheap and they are awesome to work with. Make sure whichever one you choose it has ATC calibrated into it.

like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Refractometer-iTavah-Temperature-Compensation-Hydrometer/dp/B01LZFXT7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523322041&sr=8-2&keywords=fractometer

as for the OG reading issue, if you have a refractometer and a hydrometer you can estimate the OG and final ABV using the bottom calculator option here

here's a bargain refractometer with good reviews

and hydrometers + thief + test tube typically cost around $10-15 at your LHBS, if you don't already own one

Like this?

http://smile.amazon.com/Beer-Wort-Wine-Refractometer-Scale/dp/B006GG0TDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1405520342&sr=8-5&keywords=refractometer

A refractometer could get the same reading I believe. If the digital aspect is what you are looking for, maybe this would be another way

I have just barely used mine but I was gifted this:

Optics Alcohol Refractometer 0-80% Volume Percent ATC, For Alcohol Liquor production, Spirit Alcohol Measurement, Ethanol with water, Distilled beverages, Winemakers, with EXTRA LED light & pipettes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9OIS5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qOe1Ab97RQZX5

Basically you put a few drops of your liquid on the meter and hold it up to light. Calibrate with water. Then you can see the ABV.

Here is one that is $20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO9BX6U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=ASK0U91UV6JOH