Best power sander hook & loop discs according to redditors

u/petthedino and /plotzkea here is the best way I could break it down. I tried to keep it simple but still detailed. If you have any questions just let me know!

Background: I have had this putter since I was 8 years old, we bought it from Edwin Watts brand new in Dallas and every member of my family has putted with it at some point in time. I looked into getting it refinished by the Scotty Custom Shop but it was going to run me over $300 to get it done. I figured I would give it a go myself I have absolutely no experience doing any kind of this stuff, this was my first ever attempt

Tools/Materials needed: I had or was able to borrow almost all of these before starting, which helped keep cost down.

• Blowtorch with appropriate fuel
  
  
• Power Sander Anyone who works with soft metal might cringe at the thought of me using a power sander on carbon steel but I had no other choice. The rust was too severe and there were very deep dings/blemished that I had to power sand out. If your putter isn't too bad you could get by with very fine sand paper.
  
  
• Fine and Very Fine Sanding Discs
  
  
• Acetone
  
  
• White Tamiya Acrylic Paint
  
  
• Needle Paint Applicator
  
  
• Motor Oil
  
  
• Metal Bucket (will hold motor oil that will most likely catch on fire)
  
  
• GOOD crucible tongs (no link because I couldn't get good ones, used for moving the extremely hot putter head)
  
  
• Paper Towels, Q-tips, Microfiber Towel
  
  Process
  
  It's important to note my putter had no paint finish. It was oil can so the only paint I really had to remove was the logo's. If your putter is entirely painted you might have to adjust the steps accordingly
  
  

1. Remove the putter head by blow-torching where the shaft, putter connect. I am replacing the grip on my putter so I stuck the grip into the ground and basically used that to hold my putter head anytime I was blow-torching. Once you melt the resin connecting the shaft and head you should be able to just pull it off with an oven mitt.
   
   
2. Sand it down. This is where all of the dings, nicks and imperfections should be removed along with any excess rust. I used fine sanding disc with power sander, then once everything looked smooth I went over it with the very fine disc to get a better shine and leave no visible abrasions. I never used the power sander on the putter face but lightly used very fine sand paper to preserve the milling I wrapped the sand paper around a sponge to ensure even pressure was applied to the face. Here is a picture of what the head looked like after sanding..
   
   
3. After sanding there will be a lot of metal flakes/dust all over the putter. Wipe it down excessively with microfiber then use acetone to remove any paint from the putter. I just dipped a qtip in the acetone and applied it to the logos, then wiped it all off with a paper towel. This was the least exciting night of work because you don't see too much of a change.
   
   
4. At this point your putter will be just a hunk of metal with no paint and no finish. So now the fun starts. I can only say what I did, and it's a fire risk. I hot blued my putter head using a method similar to how gun parts are blued. It's also Scotty Cameron does it. Outside, I stuck my putter grip first into the ground and set the head back into the shaft. I torched my putter everywhere except the face until it turned dark blue with shades of light blue. Once it was the desired color I dunked it into the metal bucket of oil with crappy, rubber, kitchen tongs. The tongs I ordered were too weak to lift the putter head, and my grill tongs were also too flimsy and I was running out of time because gun blueing generally requires immediate oil dunking to ensure the color is what you want. So I freaked and used kitchen tongs to dunk in oil. They had plastic tips for better grip but the grip melted onto the putter head and you can see a little bit in the picture. Once you dunk the oil will begin to boil and maybe catch on fire. I used motor oil because it is designed to not catch on fire but YMMV. Here is the result about 20 mins after torching
   
   
5. Do your best to wipe off all the oil you can from the putter, now it's time to paint the logos. Use the paint bottle to fill in the logos. A little goes a long way here. This was by far the hardest step. I overfilled the logos and had to use acetone on a Q-tip to remove paint from parts of the putter where it shouldnt be. But I would accidentally remove some from the logo then have to fill the logo, but I would accidentally overfill the logo and have to remove...so on in that fashion for about 4-5 hours. It still wasn't perfect, but it was done. I let it sit over night then lightly oiled it again to protect the finish.
   
   My steps were broken up by days. I worked a little after work each day and it made for a good week! If you guys try it and have any questions please message me!
   
   Edit: several edits for clarity.

>It all depends on how bad it is. I use my ROS (random orbital sander) with 220 and then follow that with 400 then 00 steel wool.

220 grit seems a bit excessive. If you had a think caked-on layer of iron oxide on the surface... maybe. If it's just a light layer of rust, get some 600 grit and maybe some 1000 grit sanding discs for your orbital. Remember to throughly clean the metal dust with some type of solvent, ie alcohol, acetone, ever-clear (not even joking lol)...


Then... once its squeaky clean, hit it with some protective film. I use and aerosol dispersed Dry Lubricant with Teflon for a SUPER slick finish. You could also use BoeShield T9 witch is another aerosol that will leave a nice dry waxy film. if your not into aerosols, try good 'ol Paste Finishing Wax


Welcome to the WoodWorking Community 😊

I guess you could always take a large sheet of of particleboard and put some decently thick high-density carpeting on it (not that thin high traffic stuff). Particle board is great for deadening sound, far better than plywood or MDF. The carpet would help even more.
Then flip it over and put your rig directly on top of it.

If you need to take it a step further, these extremely affordable adhesive sanding pads can be stuck to the underside of your rig and they are made specifically to absorb vibration.

Sound deadening foam/sheets are incredibly expensive so only use them as a last resort,

Some people on BGG have gotten some ultra thin teflon stickers for their strikers. You can get them in bulk on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Removal-Adhesive-Diameter/dp/B0099AMTBA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538696835&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=CS+Hyde+Mouse+Discs&dpPl=1&dpID=41yOImP1OmL&ref=plSrch

You can try simply waxing the surface of the board and adding pads to the bottoms of the strikers.

I use Mother's pure carnauba wax (amazon), same as on my crokinole board. The maker of Muzzie's crokinole boards recommends Turtle Wax super hard shell paste wax instead (amazon).

1. Rub a small amount on the board (do only a quarter of the board at a time otherwise the wax will harden on the surface in patches while you do other sections).
   
2. Use a buffing/microfiber cloth to spread the wax evenly in circles. The surface will become a little cloudy.
   
3. Important: after the whole board is waxed wait at least 20 minutes for the wax to cure.
   
4. Use a different side of the cloth to buff the wax off. Note that this whole process seems to work best in hotter temperatures.
   
   Under the strikers I put teflon stickers (amazon). Other people seem to have good results with Scotch felt pads instead (amazon).
   
   I did this to a new-ish board with two coats of wax and the striker movement was so slick, the game was difficult to play until the surface got some wear. The results won't be so dramatic with a well-worn board, but it goes to show that a bit of waxing will make a difference.

Micromesh sanding pads work but polishing compound is the same. Only difference is that the abrasive is attached to paper instead of in a medium.

micromesh

It'll actually do a much better job than you can possibly do by hand, though, and the final paint job will be much better for it. Plus, you have to remember the First Law of Tools: if I have the tool, I'll find opportunities to use it.

[This is a decent one] (https://www.amazon.com/Decker-BDERO100-Random-Sander-5-Inch/dp/B00MLSS1SW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493219365&sr=8-2&keywords=power+sander) for a pretty low price. I tend to stick with Black and Decker or Ryobi for power tools because they're very reliable and have excellent warranties, plus you can find compatible parts (like the sand paper refills) easily. You might consider adding this one to your wish list.

If you have a cordless drill, this attachment works wonders for ding repair.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDVSZQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_UGaYAbXBR0A2T

Yeah I tend to scour Craigslist and local estate auctions for equipment and stuff I could modify. MPLS has some decent used equip from time to time, as does Duluth, but you have to be patient, and ready to jump when something comes up. There are some other good DYI suggestions people have made here. I have made a Flat lap for thundereggs and agate geodes with a 110V motor, an arbor adapter to convert my motor shaft to a threaded end that accepts angle grander attachments (5/8-11) and bought a 7" Velcro head and silicon carbide sand pads. Works awesome. I got the motor for $20 on craigslist, and everything else cost less than $60. Its basically a 'Richardson's Ranch Thunderegg polisher' clone. Richardsons Ranch uses a 3450 rpm motor, which I have, but I may switch it out to a 1725 rpm as it gets the stones hot quick.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MZKTWG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Heavy-Duty-Sanding-Discs/dp/B07CBCCBN9?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ELTZ1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Muglug is right on every note. I'll just mention that I got my ROS here BLACK+DECKER BDERO100 Random Orbit Sander, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MLSS1SW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nzyxCbMB3536X

Its not professional quality, but the price is right and, since you're just needing something for a DIY project, it will be fine for your purposes. You can also save a couple extra bucks by getting it through Amazon Warehouse Deals. In the frequently bought together, there's a 60 piece variety pack of sanding pads. It's more than you need, but you will probably pay about the same or more to buy individual packs of the different grits.

I gotcha. I guess the crux of the issue is that, since I'm new to the hobby, I have yet to establish a baseline for "normal" sanding time through the grits. Thus, I notice how excellently a 'fresh' piece acts and it seems like a huge difference versus a 'medium' piece.

Thanks for the the bulk buying tip. This is the set I bought as my first batch. I've noticed that I use the lower grits much much more than the higher grits so, for the next round, I'll probably buy a 25-50 pack of the lower ones for sure.

I also got a few 8.5x11 sheets of 80-400 but I've only used them for corners that I can't reach w/ the ROS so far, so they should last me a while.

I like the mirka gold multipacks which gives 10 each of 5 different grits. That way it gives you a variety and you can buy 50 packs of the grits that you're running out of the most quickly.

link

Not sure if you have a menards in your area, but [this] (https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tools/sanders/performax-reg-1-1-amp-corded-5-bench-top-disc-sander/jd2504/p-1489990860962-c-10088.htm?tid=-333651309580431715&ipos=1) sander is what i was recommended. You can have the sander vertical or horizontal, based on your preference, and it's relatively cheap!
So, since this sander take PSA pads (pressure sensitive adhesive), and the available micromesh pads are hook and loop (think velcro), you need a few parts to convert it.



This is the PSA to Hook and Loop Conversion pad

This is a Hook and Loop Soft Pad. I'm not sure why I need this part, but it was apart of what was recommended to me for this whole thing to work.

And these are the micromesh pads. Same grit sizes as your standard micromesh variety, so it should get the job done.

All of the parts I needed for this are coming in today, so I should be able to test it out tonight! Let me know if you have any other questions.

I haven't had the chance yet. I cut them last summer/fall but until recently has been too cold to work outside. I cut them using a circular saw and a trickle of water so the cut isn't jagged or anything, but I vacillate between dry sanding with my DA orbital and just getting a cheap diamond polisher. If you do YouTube search for "DIY marble countertops" you can find some pretty informative vids. A couple of multi packs like this and this you can get a pretty passable finish with a palm sander. Just be patient and make sure all the scratches are out before you move on to the next grit.

Amazon offers better prices. Example:


https://www.amazon.com/LotFancy-5-Inch-8-Hole-Sandpaper-Assortment/dp/B01LS2JGX0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=26Q5K0AQZA094&keywords=sanding+discs+5+inch+8+hole&qid=1562290592&s=gateway&sprefix=sanding+dis%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-3

It's between this orbit sander or this sheet sander

Pretty much this or this

You can sand those out with wet-dry sandpaper. Something this. If you have a power sander, you can use this.

Make sure you use water to lubricate, and sand the whole top evenly. Move through the grits until you are at ~3000. Between each grit, make sure you clean the top thoroughly. You don't want any of the old grit on the surface when you start with the new grit.

NOTE: you can stop before 3000 if you want a less polished look.

Then, you can optionally buff it out with an automotive buffer and polishing compound, if you want a polished finish.

Edit: Forgot to say that you should pick a "pattern", and stick to it. If you want it to be swirly pattern like this, use the circular sander. But, a straight pattern is more common.

I use these sand blaster

Not that brand and they're expensive but, when I need to weld on the body of my project truck before my SO starts finding things for me to do, it takes the paint off super quickly, then I use a wire wheel to get in the crevices.

Mirka

Mirka 23-615-AP Gold 5-Inch 8-Hole Dustless Hook-and-Loop Sanding Disks on my Bosch random orbital sander for the 100, 120, and 150 grit. The 80 grit was on my hand held belt sander...

It completely depends on your financial situation, but I would recommend just buying your own tools. You will get more than your moneys worth if you hang on to them for 5-10 years. Which is very easy with proper care.

Here are some cheaper yet not terrible options on Amazon. These should get most jobs done around the house.

• Orbit Sander $28
  
• Assorted Sanding Disks $20
  
  
  Total of $48
  
  
  
  If you want to go with another method outlined here you can use a regular drill. Tons of uses for a drill other than sanding down your skillet.
  
  
• Drill $30
  
• Coarse Wire Brush attatchment $9
  
• Fine Wire Brush attatchment $6
  
  Total of $45
  

Seems like an angle grinder with the appropriate attachment would make this easier and not cost too much. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/3M-SandBlaster-9681-2-Inch-Clean-N-Strip/dp/B000BQURDI#productDetails or a wire wheel might do the trick.

I'd take the rail off, go outside and grind the paint off with a stripping pad or a wire wheel chucked in a drill. A new pad will probably tackle the whole rail in about 3 minutes total.

Edit: even better if you have an angle grinder, you'd probably be done in about 1-1/2 minutes with this

They're strip & clean disks. Here's a like to one kind: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQURDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_D5UYDbP2B9SJ1

I use New Wave sanding disks on my lathe. I make sure to use a foam backing when using them so I can use a light touch. Using the 400 grit from the start was not difficult to get through the stone.

Here is the kit to get started.

Haha no problem.

The little tape things underneath are teflon feet, they make the mouse a little more slick and also protect the original feet a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Removal-Adhesive-Diameter/dp/B0099AMQGS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468707455&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=mouse+feet+hyde

Fast or slow is honestly just up to you, I like mine a little more smooth but it's 100% preference. QCK is on the more control side, if you go on amazon and look up the reflex lab mousepad that's supposedly pretty slick though.

You can get them on amazon here CS Hyde Mouse Discs with One Side Clean Removal Adhesive, 0.002" Thick, 3/4" Diameter (100 pcs/roll) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099AMQGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TgUyDbS312CNQ

Also you can use carnauba wax on the board to make it slicker

3M NX is my go-to paper now. Amazon ramps the price down to like $4-6 a box until somone buys then back up to $17.09 (which is still cheaper than Mirka). It's good quality paper too.

Here's the 5" P180: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AW0JP9A/

Found this 2 for $36 https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Pack-380278-00-380278-00-2pk/dp/B00GUU321S
Found this saying it "Might" fit go measure and double check. 2 for $10 https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pads-Abrasives-RSP28-Sander/dp/B00CLCE6EQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P1TWZ1GY3X35JDT2PN2Q
edit: Get the model number from your site and google that you might be able to find a better deal.

You hate sanding because you don’t have a good sander.

Buy this and some of these