Best roof flashings according to redditors
We found 16 Reddit comments discussing the best roof flashings. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 16 Reddit comments discussing the best roof flashings. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Example of way to keep water out
Roof Protector thingy
Basically the rail system secures it to roof and these protect the screws into the stud from having water. They slide up under the shingles to the point of water shed is on top and can’t get below.
This worked great for me and was hard to find:
Dektite Premium #6 Red Silicone Metal Roof Pipe Flashing, High Temp, Square Base, Pipe OD 5" to 9" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0189UGN76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cgIUDb6HK2YNM
Since you own the house and live in a cold area I would suggest getting good pipe flashing and having a roofer install it ($250 or so for the install). You will have 4" PVC running up out of it with some sort of cap. You will want it as close as possible to the fan and going up through the roof vs. out the side of the house under the eaves and possible soffit vents.
https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Pipe-Flashing-400-fits/dp/B007TJP6BI
For the inside, between the fan and the roof, you will want to have an insulated pipe so you're not building up condensation.
edit:
http://www.chicagotribune.com/sns-201506152000--tms--askbildrctnab-a20150626-20150626-story.html
It depends on a lot of things so try and get some pictures of the leaky area when you get up there. But it shouldn't be that hard. Use a scraper and get off all the more caked up and loose coating removed. Then apply Henry's elasotmeric:
http://www.amazon.com/280DC-White-Elastomeric-Roof-Coating/dp/B00GMMQXUQ
That's a five gallon bucket which is probably enough to coat an entire single-wide mobile home roof. You probably don't need that much. It comes in one gallon and maybe even in quarts.
You just paint it on with a brush. Don't apply it in super cold weather or it won't dry right.
Get some pics and I can give you a better idea of what it is you need to do.
Also you can post on /r/DIY (do it yourself) They are very helpful there. They will want to see some pic to.
I used butyl tape on my Pontiac Vibe and it worked really well for soundproofing (two layers on the doors, one layer in the hatch area). Similar to this but the stuff I bought at home depot was about 2 feet wide instead of 4 inches. A lot of automotive sound deadening stuff is basically this stuff with a markup. It's flexible and sticks pretty well, but you might want to use additional spray adhesive if you're doing your ceiling. It looks like you already have soundproofing material on your floor?
For my project, I plan on putting butyl tape on the metal, then foam board on top, then plywood. Haven't decided yet between EPS or XPS foam board (EPS is vapor permeable and XPS is not) but they're both moisture resistant with the tradeoff of lower R-value over other options, like fiberglass batting (degrades with moisture) or polyisocyanurate (useless under 50F)
Find ways of protecting yourself while you're sitting still and sleeping, as that's when you're most vulnerable. I've written about radiosurgery, which is the act of destroying select tissue with electromagnetic radiation. There's a real threat of permanent brain damage. Do what it takes to stay healthy.
What is your budget?
I've tried the following (from /r/emshielding sidebar):
I would recommend instead of the above (which was me prototyping and testing vectors), do it the right way the first time, and build my ventillated sleeping enclosure (~$1,000 for aluminum, plus add'l layers), and coat it with layers of shielding materials (copper flashing > butyl > sheet steel > buytl > sheet lead > butyl), until you achieve complete relief. Don't skimp on the fans and power supplies.
I would use marine grade 3/4" tongue and groove plywood, and flash it with wide strips of aluminum bent into an 'L' shape:
https://www.amazon.com/AMERIMAX-PRODUCTS-66320-Aluminum-Flashing/dp/B000DZGHHC
I used quickroof for the trunk of my car. My car is much quieter on the outside and the bass seems louder on the inside. Way cheaper than dynamat type products.
I have not replaced the rubber on my roof but I have worked on it in the past. It sounds like your roof is an EPDM roof. Which, as you have seen, is made by putting a complete piece of rubber over the roof and then sealing it to the roof.
EPDM rebuild kits are available. Essentialy you have to clean up and prep the area that needs replacement, then put the new piece of EPDM in place. The edges that would overlap flat on the roof could be sealed with a combination of eternabond and dicor. The part of the roof that goes around the edge of the camper might need some more thought. Mine is rolled and has gutters along with downspouts along the edge. In my estimation that would be the hard part. Sealing the roof where it meets the body of the camper.
I am pretty sure it can be done if you are handy and take your time to properly prep at each step. (I learned that this summer when I redid my roof).
Meh, it should work. You may need to seal the door with fireproof rope and stove cement. I got some at a local stove store when my cubic mini started leaking. It was quite noticeable, the smell, and my co detector noticed too. As another commenter mentioned, having a cracked window is essential to allow draft to evacuate smoke. If you can find it, double wall pipe is way way safer and more functional. It says Pipe Diameter: 3.375", so maybe double wall pipe from the dickinson or cubic mini would work.
Otherwise, I'd recommend putting some chicken wire around the stove pipe, and also make a wire cage all around the stove, because it's impossible to completely avoid clothes/bedding falling on the stove in such a small space, while you're asleep. It's happened to others, and it's one of the reasons I use my china diesel heater while I'm sleeping.
TBH, it's kind of a pain trying to stay warm for 8 hours overnight with a wood stove, while maintaining fresh air. Your stove might be up to the task, but mine is too small (cubic mini cub) so I used to wake up cold af, no matter how low I'd turn it down.
Smoke getting in the van isn't an issue for me, long as you close your fan and crack a window. A propane torch helps to start it up, and those waxy logs from winco/walmart are great for starting a fire with little smoke. Coal produces very little smoke, but a lot of CO and it produces less draft which can make the CO waft in your van if it's not burning strong, with the intake wide open.
To get around clearance requirements in a small space, construct a radiant barrier of two pieces of aluminum/steel sheet, with stacked washers/nuts/etc as spacers, to create an air gap in between the plates. I did this with my stove and the bottom plate under my stove was cold with it running.
For the roof, use a Dektite #3 red hitemp fitting, with some hitemp caulk from ace, and bolt the fitting to the roof before the caulk dries. Leak proof for over a year for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Flexible-Pipe-Flashing-Dektite/dp/B077QM5VT8
XFasten Waterproof Patch and Seal Tape, White, 4 Inches x 10 Feet, Water Barrier Tape for Stop Leak Repair on Pipes, Chimney, Roof, Boat, and HVAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYBFHRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s6BTDbF28WXBF
I use waterproof tape. There was a skylight in this house when we moved in.... and well, this tape came i really, really handy.
Use oil or Vaseline on your scissors to cut it, and use small pieces at a time to avoid it sticking to itself, because you can't unstick it.
I'm sure it may depend on what grade of AL is in use, but flashing is dirt cheap. 20 inches by 10 feet. Etch until you're blue in the face.
You can mount it through the roof or through the wall. There are a few different ways to do it, but a lot of people get a Silicone Chimney Flashing making it easier.
This isn't unusual for fiber cement siding (or really, ANY siding, but fiber cement in particular). However, the installer should have flashed behind the butt joints with some sort of metal flashing in the first place, instead of caulk. Trying to fight the expansion and contraction with caulk will never work. There are companies that actually make pre-bent flashing just for this purpose. The flashing is dark colored so it doesn't pop out as much when the siding contracts.