Best scooter parts according to redditors

I have used those types of extensions. They do work but are meant for 31.8mm handlebars that you'd have on a bike. Bike bars are typically beefier where they meet the stem connection and then taper down to 22mm out to the grips. Even with the shims included, getting those tight on 22mm bars is problematic. The more you have installed the more they will tend to rotate downward with any bumps (voice of experience).

Some of the scooters with your type of down tube have "children's bars." They will typically be 22mm handlebars size tubes. Not sure the one I provided will work on your tube, but will give you the idea to look for. I've seen them that will work for you, just can't remember where at the moment. You can also use 54mm motorcycle fork clamps that have 22mm arms extending out. I bought a clamp and an extra arm. If you can't find the extra arm, buy two clamps and just use the second arm on a single clamp.

My solution on imgur

There are bar extensions such as these that will work with your 22mm bars as well: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000015816719.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.35.614d56a5qsoU2J&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.142407.0&scm_id=1007.13338.142407.0&scm-url=1007.13338.142407.0&pvid=912f3bef-d135-4e8c-83d7-7a952a1314db

Get a transport bag for your scooter like this. Problem solved!

The Andymark charger which you have linked is an Lead Acid type charger (car battery). Which is not be used with NiMH batteries which are the Tetrix batteries that you use. You should be looking for a multi bank NiMH smart (balance) charging station. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HB6VF5Y?psc=1 Would work very well. Keep in mind with no matter what you get, you will need to put your own Anderson PowerPoles on the ends of the charging cables.

I currently have a couple of RTF quads: Skytech M62R and WLToys V262. Both great "toys", real fun to fly and super durable, but I wanted to take the next step to a budget 250 mini quad.

The frame, controller, ESC's, motors, screws, cables and connectors come from a bundle from MassiveRC. I did ask to change the default ESC's that came in the regular bundle (6A) to 12A ones for an extra price.
The rest of the components are from Amazon or eBay.


Frame: Diatone FVP250 v3

Motors: Emax MT1806 2280KV

ESC: Emax BLHeli 12A

Controller: MassiveRC Acro Rev5 32-bit
$130 for the bundle

Battery Charger: iMax B6 $32

Radio: FlySky FS-i6 with i6 RX $62

Battery: Turnigy 1000mAh 3S $13 each

Total cost around $250 for the RTF package without the Mobius lens C and the VTX/VRX that I already had.
Shout-out to MassiveRC for an exceptional service, Ultra fast shipping and great shipping costs.

I still need a FPV monitor and maybe a dedicated FPV cam but I don't think I will be doing FPV soon anyway, need some practice first. One other upgrade is the RX, I may order the i10 at some point to use the telemetry capabilities of the FS-i6 radio.

This is going to be a very fun weekend for me! Hopefully will post some final pics sometime soon.

More pics

TOMALL Shaft Locking Screw Assembled Screw Folding Place Fixed Bolt Replacement Parts for Xiaomi M365 Electric Scooter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PW5B2G9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oCroDb3XZR9W1

Also curious about this. I saw a couple of different style "solid" tires. One looked really interesting because the inside where the tube goes it was a bunch of walls that went across the tire. I was thinking those would possibly still give some shock absorption. So hopefully someone has tried it out.

​

Edit:

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SPEDWHEL-Universal-Explosion-Proof-Pneumatic-Replacement/dp/B07RWSVHDJ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=10x2.5+spedwhel&qid=1562960587&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1-catcorr

Thanks!

And yeah, that’s a phone holder, even branded as Ninebot:
https://www.amazon.com/SPEDWHEL-Original-NINEBOT-Electric-Scooter/dp/B07MZMC6XV

There’s also a bag in the front, Ninebot branded as well: https://www.amazon.com/Segway-Ninebot-Waterproof-Electric-Scooters/dp/B07VCYR9XS (although this looks the same and is cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Seway-Scooter-Storage-Electric-Compatible/dp/B07HS2W9JT)

Here’s how it looks: https://imgur.com/a/p83gjMO

Inside, I carry (among other things) a Bluetooth speaker so I can listen to music while I ride, as headphones don’t fit well into my helmet. Just leave it a bit unzipped so the sound can get out, and you’re set.


As for the helmet (not an accessory but it’s “on” the scooter here), it’s a TLD Stage: https://www.rei.com/product/144603/troy-lee-designs-stage-mips-bike-helmet


There’s also a really cleverly-designed bell that uses up very little space: https://www.rei.com/product/153660/knog-oi-luxe-bike-bell (or a budget version here: https://www.rei.com/product/116796/knog-oi-bike-bell)

Here’s how it looks: https://imgur.com/a/dQ0lOit

You just have to make sure it’s rotated high enough so that it doesn’t interfere with your throttle lever.


And finally, a light (because my scooter suffers from the electrical issue where turning on the built-in headlight triggers the brake):
https://www.rei.com/product/132832/nite-ize-radiant-125-bike-light

I’ve got it mounted vertically instead of sideways like in the promo pictures, and it looks a lot better that way.

Don't do that, get a smart charger instead. I'll link the one I have in a little bit.


I have this one


and I am looking at getting this one


Both of these also have one extra really cool feature, you can power them with DC OR AC, this means, you could put a DC battery (i.e. car battery) on your cart, and recharge your robot batteries on the move.

Hey there you are, I was hoping you'd see my thread since I knew you had experience with other chargers. :)

I now have 4 ways of charging the hopper's batteries, and 3 of those methods involve constant current. The hopper charger is the only one that dances around all over the place.

3 other chargers I have (in no particular order)

1. Nitecore F1 - Charges at a constant 1 amp
   
2. XTAR MC1 - Charges at a constant .5 amp
   
3. Olight UC - Charges at a constant .75 amp
   
   I'm going to contact hopper labs and see if they'll provide some insight on this. Perhaps these batteries are designed for variable charging? I'm no expert on the matter, but constant amperage/voltage seems like a more normal method of charging batteries. Every lithium battery I've ever charged has been that way.

How? Lipos are cheaper than the nimhs get 3 for 21$ and a charger that does it all for 30-40$ (could go really cheap and get a lipo cell balance charger for 12$) and a cell checker for 2-3$. If interested I can get links. 28$ for the pos wall charger is a joke you can get an imax charger that does lipos, nimhs, nicds, and lead acid batteries for 30$ seriously. It also has a display, can discharge and cycle batteries why would you but that "smart charger". I have 26 different chargers. Just don't buy one of those when you could get something way better for the same price if not less.

Links

Charger needs power supply*

The power supply

Amazon power supply included

They range in price but you can get one for 30$ I am on mobile I can get links id you'd like. Hobby king has lipo batteries 5-7$ nimhs in airsoft especially big name stores are hella over priced. Simular chargers like the ones I linked go for 100+ on evike.

The ones I linked are also made by hobby grade rc companies rather than airsoft companies. I have seen some from evike flake out. I have had mine for 15-12 years

Take a look at this. tangsfire 36V Lithium Battery Charger Output 42V 2A for Electric Bike Batteries Pack DC5.5mm2.1mm11mm Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779RQ4Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ayiBDb94RBYMV

I don't really know how much money was saved or not saved. I bought

this motor for $240

and

this battery for $463

You might find better deals, I honestly didn't look that hard.

I know a lot of pre builts go for way more money and some might be right on par with what I spent but I also don't think it's ridiculous to spend higher prices, for a few reasons:

1. peace of mind that someone who knew what they were doing assembled everything
   
2. support from the manufacturer
   
3. my bike is not street legal, technically. While I'm on the road, I only go as fast as any legal ebike and I follow all the rules of the road. I haven't gotten any attention from police after 1000+ miles so I think this is fine but still at the end of the day it's not legal. This may be an issue if (when) I ever get in a car accident.
   
   As far as actually assembling the motor and battery it was pretty simple. I soldered my battery cables to the controller that came with the motor but everything else was plug and play. The toughest part will be mounting the battery somewhere on the bike, if you have a water bottle cage you can use the mounts from there.
   
   Finally, yes there are loads of us here on /r/ebikes that made our own creations! I found some help here when I had questions and found everyone to be friendly.

• There will be other suggestions of combat machines and cyma AKs, but there's no problem starting off with a JG m4, they're solid.
  
  
• 6mm proshop is an unfamiliar brand to me, and I wouldn't trust them. This Elite Force mid cap is a well respected mag that will work well for you. They sell individually for $7.50 or boxes of 10 for $63. How many is up to you, it depends on where you play, length of game, etc. I would suggest getting 3-4 mids to start out, then go from there. (You may decide later on that you want your next gun purchase to be a different model that doesn't take m4 mags, and you don't want to have tons of mags you can't use.)
  
  
• If your budget can handle it I would suggest getting into lipo bateries. Lipo Charger Safety Bag You will have to find out how much you like to shoot, because that will impact how quickly you use a battery, and thus how many batteries you need. 2 is good for a whole day of play for me personally.
  
  
• That's not a bad option, but going with something cheaper that's lighter weight and more modular would be better for you to figure out what you need. Chest rig: this is a solid chest rig that offers expansions for a backpack and bib you can buy separately to provide you more space. Pouches: throw on one of these and you're ready to go. From here you can decide which extra pouches you want. JPC: If you feel like you really want a plate carrier, the avengers repro is a good option to start out with. Banshee: If you really want to dive headfirst, the Banshee is a very high quality plate carrier that is a great option. (Note: I linked everything in black because that's the color you had chosen for your original vest, but unless you plan on strictly playing CQB a different color would be much more beneficial.)
  
  
• Don't even worry about secondaries, get a primary loadout you're really happy with, then decide if you need a sidearm.
  
  
• As long as goggles have the appropriate ANSI rating your eyes will be safe, those goggles don't have it. Another option would be the Revisions. They're really high quality.
  
  
• Rails serve a purpose. Yeah they look cool, but being able to customize your grip is useful. Peq boxes for batteries, laser/light Peq boxes, and flashlights are also useful in certain situations. Some people also like to attach their optics forward on the gun, utilizing the rail.
  
  
• A flashlight is useful in CQB for blinding people people as well as urban environments and night games for just seeing in general. It's a nice thing to have, but by no means a necessity. Mock suppressors only serve a purpose if you want to install a longer inner barrel without replacing your outer barrel.
  
  
• Unless you have upgraded your gun for really long ranges, a magnified sight is useless. A red dot is beneficial for target acquisition. To remove the triangle sight you have to pop out two pins on the bottom of the sight that keep it clamped around the outer barrel.
  
  
• Play honorably, don't be a dick, and don't let anyone demean you for being new or having less gear. In addition, I'm a shy person, and starting out it was really hard for me to go to the field because I didn't have any friends from school who wanted to go with me. Eventually I broke the ice with some people, and now I have a great group of guys to play with. This may not apply to you, but being social and get to know the people at your local field, it will greatly enhance your experience.
  
  
• I wouldn't even think about roles right now. Wait until your next gun purchase to decide if you want to be a heavy gunner or run n' gunner etc. Ideally you would be able to try out these different play styles by borrowing guns before you decide.

Thanks For the info guys. It’s the protruding plastic on the screw posts that seem to be the culprit There is room they are not touching but the battery has some play when mounted in the cradle and the case has some broken locking tabs it’s probably just from bouncing around. I am going to trim some of the post off and sand it smooth. I will cover up the exposed metal with 1 layer of electric tape that should also help when I check it after my next ride to see if trimming the posts helped. I just ordered some Fish paper off amazon and I already have some Kapton tape so I will use that also. I am going to strap the battery around the down tube going foward to keep it from moving in the cradle.

I do plan on getting a new battery, but I want to ride the bike around for a few more weeks to make sure I am still enjoying it before I drop $700 on a new battery.

As for the charger I could plug it in the wall and meter off the dc jack and get one reading unplug it and plug it back into the wall and get a few volts lower. I ended up ordering this one for now.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Battery-motorcycle-Anderson-Connector/dp/B07S9FVFN4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=51.8V+ebike+Charger+51.8V%2F50V%2F52V+Li-ion+Battery+Charger+58.8V&qid=1566928349&s=gateway&sr=8-6


I was really tempted to get the Cycle Satiator. it looks awesome but like the battery I want to ride what I have for now before I drop any more money.

What's wrong with the trolley handle? They moved the handle outside the shell to hold a bigger battery. If looseness is the only issue, you can buy an adjustment kit to fix the looseness. Techarge LLC Handle Spacer Kit for Inmotion V10 Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RWTG71J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O5aEDbBY1G7Q8

I had this exact same problem with my china motor, except I actually broke one of the head nuts off with a section of the bolt still inside. The other bolts were varying degrees of bent and stripped.

When I tried to purchase new bolts, but I quickly found that 3mm diameter bolts with a pitch of 1mm are close enough to "nearly impossible to find" to be rounded to "plain old impossible to find."

Because of this I'm now looking around for either a conversion kit or a replacement motor that doesn't have all the fiddly bits attached. Here are some links to motors/kits I've found that seem good.

• https://www.amazon.com/Ambienceo-Scooter-Cylinder-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B07SZ71Q17/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bicycle+motor&qid=1564455852&s=gateway&sr=8-2
  
• https://www.gasbike.net/products/gt90-conversion-kit
  
• https://www.gasbike.net/collections/engines-only/products/black-stallion-66cc-80cc-engine-only
  
  Shure the conversion kit and the motor are more expensive than your full kit, but if your going to replace it you might as well get one that's nicer. Or if you're feeling cheep, there's always the one from Amazon. I hope this helped you!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6Q9Y0E seems to be the real deal. Shows the security code sticker in the pictures. If it shows up without the sticker, just return it on Amazon's dime.

I've bought 2 of these from seller DCDEAL (see other sellers on the right) when they shipped from the US. Both were genuine. Now they only ship from China, but it should still be the genuine article.

EDIT: Oops.. Missed the AC part of your part number. Still, though, look for the security sticker.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLSCMJT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_wDzSDbNJB3KKG

AlveyTech Hub Motor & Front Wheel Assembly for The Xiaomi Mi M365 (500 Watts) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q873BTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Nqk4CbDEZEJTX

With a 44t you'll never get to that speed just because of gearing, the 36t should get you there.

As far as a real mz65 goes, cdh and zeda marketed this pipe as a mz65 pipe but beware IT IS NOT, it was a bad clone


Fake:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Banana-Exhaust-Expansion-Chamber/dp/B07VJ89T4T/ref=pd_sbs_468_t_1/134-4320134-3673145?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07VJ89T4T&pd_rd_r=68b63121-94fb-4dab-8185-ea5ec580567c&pd_rd_w=zhatL&pd_rd_wg=SZTCd&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=YM2JHVH9SXHWZS1AAWSN&psc=1&refRID=YM2JHVH9SXHWZS1AAWSN


Real:
https://zedamotorsports.com/collections/pipes/products/mz65-pipe



The main difference is the header length, on a real one there is a short header before it expands, unlike the fake one that has a very long skinny tube header. This makes a huge difference as far as performance goes. The chamber itself is also a decent bit smaller. 2 stroke pipes are science, tube length, diameter, etc all play a huge part in how the motor runs. The fake ones just restricts and never actually allows the motor to hit a power band.

these

I used this [solid tire ](OTBBA Solid Tire Replacement for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WZ9XL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) to replace my rear wheel after it was punctured. (Alternatively, you could buy a [solid wheel already on a rim](GAGAMO Wheel Hub and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQLCLV4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) and save yourself a lot of effort.)

I put some water in a pot on a stove and heated it until boiling, and poured it into a bucket with the tire in it.

I let it sit for 20 minutes and took it out. It should be warm but not too warm to handle. It may have some white marks like rubber stretching, and there'll be a rubber smell.

I ziptied through one of the tire's holes and through the wheel rim and tightened so they stayed together as I worked around the wheel. With a good amount of effort, I used these [tire irons](Dr.Roc Tire Spoon Lever Iron Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3SJ699?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) to put the the tire on the rim, not worrying about the tire properly seating in the rim. Once the tire is around the rim, use a closed pair of scissors to put through the tire holes and pry up to allow a tire iron scrape under and pull the tire to seat properly.

I did this only with my rear tire and haven't had tire problems since.

I was just looking at these tires and they mention a helpful video, FWIW. On a Minipro board one guy said something about using cheap mini bike tools and zip ties. That's all I got--hardly sage, but I mean well. :)

Check the amperage of your charger, says it on the back. Buy the same amps, it needs to be a 42V charger.

tangsfire 36V Lithium Battery Charger Output 42V 2A for Electric Bike Batteries Pack DC5.5mm2.1mm11mm Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779RQ4Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HVHsDbVTZCGYR

36V Ebike Battery Charger Output 42V 3A for DC5.5 x 2.1 x 11mm Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BS8NHWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KSHsDbZY85SC7

Got it. For any future interested parties - I am planning to go with this charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07317STLV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A38LKZ9G0O06PW&psc=1


Here's the power supply I was using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXMY0TE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As you requested. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXMY0TE

It's on snagshout if you were interested in playing the random shipping game :)

Here's a HC30w w/battery on Amazon sold by a good dealer. Add a Nitecore F1 to charge the battery.

Here is the mobile version of your link