Best threading taps according to redditors
We found 43 Reddit comments discussing the best threading taps. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 43 Reddit comments discussing the best threading taps. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
This one is from Titan. It works great now, not sure how long it will stay sharp
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51950-Deburring-External/dp/B07V9PGRSB
wut
I mean sure, that's no-name Amazon but for occasional use (eg you don't use the thing but once in a blue moon) it's probably ok.
If not, you've got this one from Fastnel; Grainger has a decent selection for similar prices.
Even McMaster has them starting at around $100 ($60 if you only need to 'repair' a thread).
Sure!
Dein Username prüft übrigens aus.
The Light Units
The Chips x4: 98.6$
The Driver x1: 74.9$
CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$
Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$
4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$
Lights Total: 246.36$
Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section: https://www.alu-verkauf.de/ALUMINIUM-ALUMINIUMPROFILE
Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.
You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$
In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$
Be careful these drills suck and break easily.
Screws x1: 12.98$
Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$
Were at about 315$.
Lets see what we can do with it.
my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.
have fun!
Top hit for M8 1.0 tap, maybe you're just bad at searching for things.
It was this set from Amazon.ca. Seems really cheap, and I've only used it on plastic threaded parts on my builds. I might still trust it on thinner aluminum and brass, but definitely not steel, and definitely not on something important like my car.
Ooznest is great, they actually used to sell an i3 kit that was quite good, and my goto for Great Britain recommendations insofar as cheap-ish kits were concerned. Last I checked they're a genuine reseller, so what you got should be the correct component. Anyway, if you want to upload a picture, the easiest way is to upload it to an external image host, like imgur, for instance, then link it in your comment.
So, by broken in half, do you mean it looks like this? If so, it is possible to overtorque the two halves against each other inside an M6 nut. It'll be pretty wobbly, and it definitely won't last for more than a couple of prints, but it should work enough to get it through a single print. Actually, since you ordered from Ooznest, you're probably in the UK, or nearby in Europe, right? That means hardware stores should just carry most kinds of metric fasteners, and you can get ahold of an M6 coupler nut, which would definitely join the two halves together long enough for you to get a print off of it. In addition, you could get an M7 tap of some sort, and drill out the Anet's original heatsink. The E3Dv6's heatbreak is an M7 on the top, M6 on the bottom, so that could work. You'd have issues with heat creep long-term, since the E3D uses a metal interior instead of PTFE like the Anet does, but you'd probably be able to get the mounting adapter for an E3D off of it before it gunked up too much.
edit: oops apologies, I didn't properly read to your question. I don't know about that particular gun, my comment is presuming it's 14mm and is largely irrelevant, but I will leave it.
14x1mm most likely. Not 1.5mm like many tap n dies would indicate.
This is the tap+die I bought, and it's exactly correct for all the 14mm reverse thread stuff I've got.
ctrl+c ctrl+v:
GZTool 14mm x 1.0mm Pitch Metric Left Hand Thread Plug Tap and Die Set M14 x 1.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPC7FWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QezJDb2G4KH8G
Oh. I much prefer having a center in the back of the handle and using one of these in the chuck.
Drill out original rivets, which I assume you did in order to take it apart. Drill pilot holes for tap, be careful not to go too far. Use tap tool to cut threads, make sure to use lube (wd40 works). If you’re unfamiliar with tapping maybe look up a vid on you tube.
Button head screws -
Tap and drill bit
I think the one you linked was CW. You have to be careful because amazon isn't very specific. I believe this one would be the one you want, the difference is the CW vs CCW. The one I linked should be CCW as denoted by the left handed threading.
Looking for some quality tap and die sets once, came across 7 or 8 Cle-line sets ( http://www.amazon.com/Cle-Line-C00533-533-Tap-Pieces/dp/B00PFQYUUA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) which now sell for anywhere from $900 to $2,000. I bought 8 sets for $5 to $10 bucks each.
Clearly pricing error, as I tried to order multiple quantities and Amazon emailed me before shipping and canceled the multiples, but still allowed me to order one of each for the 99.9999% reduced price.
I think he's referring more to something like this for $10: https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-3900-0215-Spring-Loaded-Tap-Guide/dp/B00R13VQCA
Bother/Sister, do yourself a favor and have your boss get one of these if they aren’t willing to spend on anything higher grade. By the time that you consider the cost of a tap, the cost of a damaged/ruined part, and lost labor tiles, it pays for itself in just a couple oopsies. HHIP 3900-0250 Precision Hand Tapper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QVYQR9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bFNOBbCEN3AJ6
There are better and more expensive solutions out there, but if nothing else, this will do a good job as a reasonable cost.
I used these two when I installed a FDV 510 for a DNA build.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JT0XW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOB1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think these are the right ones not Prime though :(
Edit: see armed_diver's comment above.
1/2 - 28 is a standard size; here's a tap for it. 1-1/4 - 28 is not a standard size as far as I know. Those threads would have to be cut on a lathe.
I suppose you could use the flash hider itself as a die on something really soft like PVC. Or glue it onto a PVC fitting that's very close to its ID. There's a facebook group specifically for these types of gun projects.
Here’s a link.
uxcell 23mm Dia Wheel Furniture Stainless Steel Sliding Door Roller 4 Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ZDJJ18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xulDAb4V5TFHW
It worked out well and they’re fairly adjustable but in hindsight I wish I would’ve gone with something of higher quality.
https://www.amazon.it/V-Coil-Helicoil-Filettatura-Riparazione-Inserti/dp/B012T46FJY
What if I insert my 6-32 screw into that helicoil and then try to fit the whole thing into the stripped hole?
M5-0.8 hand tap, and corresponding set screw
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-1607-M5-0-80-10-Pack/dp/B00HYKCJFS/ref=sr_1_3?qid=1568507934&refinements=p_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin%3A11434060011&s=industrial&sr=1-3
https://www.amazon.com/0-8-Metric-Taper-Plug-Taps/dp/B00870161M
Assuming there's enough material on the underside of your bed, drilling and tapping the bed's holes out to M10 would be the easiest.
To do that you need a 9.1mm drill bit (or something close), and an M10 tap drill (https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-8338-10mm-1-0-Metric/dp/B0002JT0XW). If the mounting part is metal, this might not be that easy. If it's wood, it becomes far easier.
You'll need to know whether the thread on the legs is M10x1 (fine thread) or M10x1.25 (course thread). The second number indicates the space between each thread height. Metal on your bed and it's probably M10x1. Wood and it's probably M10X1.25. The tap is different depending on what the thread pitch is.
> M7x0.5 tap or thread follower
Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Right-Thread-0-5mm-Pitch/dp/B00C88E0IA
Amazon has them
At the top of this thread someone said these measurements and this is what I found 7mm X .5 Metric HSS Right Hand Thread Tap M7 X 0.5mm Pitch
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C88E0IA/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8
I think you'd be happier with a bowl gouge. $100 gets you a top of the line one, but you can get a good one for $60:
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/129/948/Artisan-Superflute-Bowl-Gouge
and a decent one for $30:
https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Turning-Tools-Woodturning-Inches/dp/B008AVM77A
Using a scraper is fine, but a bowl gouge is faster and leaves a better surface. If I were using a scraper to hollow though, I'd want something a lot beefier than the little ones that come in that HF set.