Best weather thermometers according to redditors
We found 312 Reddit comments discussing the best weather thermometers. We ranked the 34 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 312 Reddit comments discussing the best weather thermometers. We ranked the 34 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
i've been paged for my link dump, so here it is. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
FYI those stick on hygrometer/thermometers are very dangerous and sometimes even lethal - he is strong enough to accidentally pull it off the wall but not able to get it off himself if he gets stuck to it afterwards. Pet stores hawk them like candy and I wish they didn't, well intentioned snake parents buy them not knowing. Not only are they dangerous, they are also highly inaccurate. I'd suggest removing it ASAP and replacing it with something digital without adhesive. This is the one I use in my enclosures, the probe lets you get cool side and warm side in the same unit!
Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.
Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.
I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:
i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Absolutely, here we go:
Essential Hardware
$80 Clones - $20 from dispensary.
$325 Lights: Horticulture Lighting Group 260 QB LED Kit
$70 2' x 4' x 5' Mylar tent
$90 4" Inline duct fan and Carbon Filter
$10 - Ducting/Clamps from ACE
$21 Osculating Fan
Already on hand: Box Fan
$25 [Humidifier] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-Warm-Mist-Humidifier-SWM6000-BWM/32664862)
$45Dehumidifier$184" inline duct booster fan$13 Ph Meter
$12 TDS PPM meter
$9 Soil Moisture, Light, Ph meter - Does it's job
$9 Ph Control Kit
$14 Ph Calibration solution
$6 Spray Bottles (Did not use these much, only very early during transplanting.)
$7 for 30ctStarter grow bags$18 Hygrometer for Temp/Humidity
$8 for 6ct 5 gal Smart Pot knockoff
$40 - Soil: Two bags of Happy Frog. Ocean forest was sitting around.
Nutrients: $165
$13 - Scrog net: for something like 50-100ft of plastic garden fence from Home Depot. Using a lot of it for a garden.
$15 - Miscelaneous: Eyedroppers, duct tape, zip ties, and odds and ends: Call it $15.
So to total that all out we're looking just over 1000 that I spent, could have kept it under $950 if I had not purchased the small duct fan or dehumidifier. Also: Soil and nutrients for $205. Could work that down to under $150 by dropping a couple unnecessary yet desirable nutrients.
Sorry for the formatting! I'm going to do a big post write up and this is a great place to start at least. Thanks for the motivation.
You're going to want to pick up something like this. You set a temperature and an acceptable threshold (i have mine varying by only one degree), and it will automatically turn the heat lamp off and on to keep it at a consistant temperature.
I also have a under-tank heat mat for my hot side, which is the main thing used to warm my snake. I absolutely recommend getting one to put under your tank. Corns like to burrow and will get more benefit to having one on the hot side. I just use the heat lamp to keep the ambient air in the tank at an acceptable level. You will want to get a separate controller for the heat mat.
Edit: I also have an Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer just chilling in the tank to get a more accurate reading inside. Your tank atmosphere is going to usually be a bit different than the atmosphere in your room. I have the "inside" number reading the ambient temp of the tank, the "outside" number reading the inside of the under-tank mat (controller probe goes between mat and glass on the outside, and this prob sticks to the glass on the inside under the substrate), and it also tells me the humidity in the tank.
You want to keep your numbers as consistant as possible. I like to shoot for 85 degrees on the hot side, 75 degrees on the cool side, and between 40%-60% humidty. I hope this information helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Edit 2: GoHerping does a great care guide video on YouTube, which is where I got most of my setup and care info from. There is also a link to their discord on the YouTube page that is full of friendly people that can answer a lot of your questions.
Edit 3: You're going to be better off using a Ceramic Heat Emitter instead of a bulb. It just produces heat and no light, which will be better with the controller ( you don't want the light isn't constantly turning off and on). Corns don't need UVB either, and do fine with just natural lighting (assuming the light in the room still follows the normal day/night cycle).
Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.
Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.
Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
OK, some specific advice to your situation follows. However, I recommend you carefully read through _ataraxia's post (pay special attention to the caresheets). That should answer a lot of your questions, and give you good advice for keeping a BP in a tank.
---------------------------------
I've never heard of corn substrate before, how does it do under high humidity? Keep an eye out for mold issues.
Humidity: 80-90 is fine, but will be incredibly difficult in a glass tank with a mesh top. You can get away with ~60% humidity most of the time.
Hides: In the wild, BPs hide in tiny rat holes/rodent dens. They like to feel tight, snug, and secure in their hides. These log hides aren't great at replicating those natural conditions because they have large openings at two ends. Please consider switching both hides to something more secure (even cardboard boxes are fine in a pinch, and these are highly recommended).
Mesh Top: Use tin foil to block off everything except where the lamp sits. This will reflect heat and humidity back down into the tank.
Temps/Humidity: I don't seen a digital gauge in your enclosure. Analog temperature and humidity gauges are notoriously inaccurate (like... WAY off). Digital gauges are cheap and reliable ways to monitor snake-level conditions in the enclosure. You can usually find them at your local Wal-Mart, even.
Water Placement: Most people put their water dish under the lamp so the evaporation increases ambient humidity. However, real estate in your enclosure is limited, especially when you add that second hide. So putting the water dish in the middle might be your best bet. Especially because you do want hides on each of the warm and cool sides.
But yeah, read _ataraxia's caresheets and follow that advice.
Edit: Instead of getting a new tank as she grows up, please consider getting a PVC reptile enclosure instead. Many are designed and made for snakes (whereas tanks are designed for fish!), so they'll make it much easier to maintain heat and humidity and keep your snake comfy and happy. Right now your tank appears a bit small and sparse...
First of all. It's very good you recognize that you need help in learning how to care for the snake.
Second, here is a big link dump created by another regular user u/_ataraxia all credit for this goes to her.
the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
u/ataraxia has amazing information for ball pythons. You should definitely read it through. Glass tanks are not ideal for Bps, so this should help. Here is her normal dump of information I took from another post.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Here's an info dump, courtesy of u/_ataraxia. It has pretty much everything you're asking about and more.
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. Read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
Llet me know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Home: For the heating pad, you need a thermostat, which will turn it on and off automatically around a specified heat range. Mine is set to 86 degrees with the probe placed between the heat mat and the bottom of the tank. This keeps the glass on top of the tank around 83-85, and the paper towel I have over the glass is around 81-83. You may need to have a different temperature setting, depending on your setup. You shouldn't turn the heat mat entirely off, unless you notice it is malfunctioning and overheating.
To make sure that your temperatures and humidity are decent, you will want a digital thermometer/hygrometer and a temperature gun. The cool side should be in the low-mid 70s and the warm side in the low-mid 80s. The humidity should be 30%-60%. If it isn't, you can make or buy a humid hide, block off some of the venting on the screen top with aluminum foil or acrylic panels, or switch substrates to something that can be misted. This last measure will likely not be necessary unless you live in a low-humidity area.
You should have two identical caves, one on the warm side over the heat mat and one on the cool side.
Diet: What you were told may be appropriate for an adult snake. If possible, weigh her and post pictures. Do a quick Google search on how much adult corns should be eating and how often. I only have a hatchling, and don't want to lead you astray with my lack of adult corn experience.
Handling: If you got her recently enough that you haven't fed her yet, you shouldn't be handling her yet. You should feed her at least once, preferably twice before handling her the first time, and wait 48 hours after feeding to handle her.
Depending on the snake, many can be held multiple times per week. Some are conservative and say only once a week for 15 minutes. Some people allow for more handling than this. But 3-4 times a week for 'extended periods' is almost definitely too much, and as she's new to you, you should be slowly working your way up to longer periods of handling. You also should never be handling her in the 48 hours after she eats.
Shedding: Their color will usually dull and their eyes will turn milky or blue. They might have some minor changes in behavior, like more resistance to handling or possibly even refusal to eat. Mine just shed, and hid for three days prior to that. Note that the shed should come off all in one piece -- if it doesn't, it may be a sign that your snake is dehydrated and doesn't have sufficient access to clean water or the humidity in the tank is too low.
Another quick note on water: You should be changing it at least twice a week, plus any time the snake soils it. I buy filtered spring water from the store, which doesn't have some of the chemicals in tap water that are fine for humans but not so good for snakes. It's kind of a pain in the butt, but it's only about $2 a month, so whatever.
Picture of the setup
Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.
For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.
Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python
It mostly depends on how much you're willing to spend.
I wouldn't recommend your suggested model. You have to open up the lid to see how warm it is (like you said). It also doesn't have any alarm functionality which warns when temperature drops above or below a certain point.
A great cheaper option would be a $40 Thermoworks DOT with a clip to attach the probe right above the grill. Nice, simple, accurate, great quality.
Cheaper version of the DOT would be the $22 Maverick OT-3BBQ. I don't know much about it but to me it looks kinda cheap. Thermoworks has a great reputation so if I want a single probe thermometer I would go for the DOT.
Problem with the DOT is it has only one probe. You can't measure the temperature of the grill and your meat at the same time.
A slightly more expensive option is this $60 Maverick ET732. It has two probes. One for the grill, one for the meat you're cooking. Plus it's wireless. So you can bring the receiver in the house while your grill is doing low and slow. Probably the best value of all models.
The same idea, but better quality, would be the $100 Thermoworks Smoke. It's very accurate, easy to operate, robust, and works more reliable than the Maverick ET732 from what I've seen. If you can afford it I would go for the Smoke.
Other options are the $50 iGrill Mini and the $100 iGrill 3 from Weber. Both options work only with a smartphone. Is has some nifty features like displaying the temperature history in a graph but it connects via bluetooth and has a bad range. You can't go too far without the connection dropping. Also not so handy that you have to rely on your smartphone all the time. You can't do a quick glance at your thermometer to see the temperature. You have to open the app instead.
Other people like the $190 Fireboard Best of both worlds kinda but expensive. Both a display and smartphone connectivity over Wifi (which means longer range). Up to 6 probes to track multiple pieces of meat at the same time. It does look nice and certainly has it fans but $190 is a lot and I doubt I will need more than 2 probes frequently.
Note that the Thermoworks Smoke will have a separate Wifi module soon which allows smartphone connectivity as well. But it probably won't be cheap. I heard $80 for the extra module.
I don't know if anyone has told you yet, but you really should remove that nasty stick on thermometer thing you have. Not only is it likely not very accurate, it could fall off completely and get stuck to your snake (not very fun).
I'd definitely recommend going with a nice digital hygrometer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's accurate enough for snakes, and it can take ambient temps on both sides of your enclosure and measure humidity.
Ok. he needs a basking spot of 85f in order to digest properly. His cool side temps should be between 70-75F. He should have two snug fitting hides, one on each end, and a decent sized water dish. Aspen is the best bedding for them. Amazon has a reallly good digital thermometer/hygrometer combo that I use in all my tanks, it's this one. does the tank have any sort of heating at all?
Ok I will give tips in the order you presented the info.
>40 gallon tank.
This could be a bit on the large side for your snake so I would start by blacking out the back and sides. You can do this with construction paper, foamcore board, or spray paint if you have someplace else for the snake to live for at least a few days. Pet stores usually sell a scenery backer meant for this. Doing this will make the snake feel less out in the open and thus safer.
>Aspen bedding
I get my aspen bedding from tractor supply in a big bail. You might consider trying coco husk which will help with keeping humidity up.
> 1 hide
I would have 2 identical tight fitting hides (This is how tight they should be)so that your snake can thermo regulate without prioritizing safety.
> 2 branches
Make sure these are secure and won't fall over.
> and a sugar skull for design
Cool.
>Have a UTH because ive heard those are best forglass tanks.
These are great for many setups but you should have temperature controlled. I recommend a thermostat. Here is a cheap one. You should place the probe on the inside against the glass or you can place it under the UTH if you have an infared thermometer to check your glass temp. remember to point the these thermometer directly at the glass from the top straight down. You must shoot perpendicular to the surface you are measuring.
> Havent fed him yet because he was fed before I bought him.
That's good. I would give him a week and offer a rat that is 10% of the snakes weight. If the snake will eat frozen thawed I recommend that. I would feed every 7 to 10 days at that size. I would thaw the rodent in hot (not boiling) water in a ziplock bag until you are sure the rodent is thawed in the center. The ziplock bag is to keep the rodent dry so you can feed in your snakes enclosure. You don't want substrate to stick to the rodent and it will be fine if its dry and you supervise the feeding.
> Whats a good way to control humidity?? Having a hard time keeping it steady.
Try covering most of the screen top. You don't need that much ventilation as your snake won't be soiling its bedding regularly. You will spot clean any problems and so you can get away with much less airflow then with rodents. Here is a tutorial if you want to do it up nice. Adjust how much ventilation you have until you get the right humidity. On that note I like this for a thermostat/hygrometer.
>And should I have a heat lamp ?
I would not use a heat lamp unless you need it to keep a warm side of 90F under the hide and an ambient temp of 80F. A heat lamp will suck humidity out of the air.
wait, your saying i can sniff for acurite things like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1?
this would be great, i could better monitor my snakes set up.
Purchase a 5.5 gallon pot you want but without anything added to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Pot/dp/B000FRJJSM/ref=pd_sim_79_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FRJJSM&pd_rd_r=6PQ2AMFEHC2QZZ0F78MZ&pd_rd_w=34FEi&pd_rd_wg=um6x3&psc=1&refRID=6PQ2AMFEHC2QZZ0F78MZ
Then purchase a weld less ball valve. https://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Stainless-Steel-Valve-Spigot/dp/B0028ZLEE6
and a weld less thermometer
https://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-800-770-Brew-Thermometer/dp/B008FEPE18/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008FEPE18&pd_rd_r=222Q1R1CKYW4HFP57VT9&pd_rd_w=m7gkT&pd_rd_wg=pyRcb&psc=1&refRID=222Q1R1CKYW4HFP57VT9
Then purchase a step bit: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dlawngarden&field-keywords=step+bit
Make sure it has the correct size.
Then purchase this bit for drilling pilot holes in metal: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-26208-Cobalt/dp/B004UUFAYW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1481229448&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F8+stainless+steel+cutting+bit
Drill the pilot holes where you want the ball valve and thermometer, then use the step bit to widen the hole to the correct size.
I have been using this exact setup with an 8 gallon pot for 5+ years and it doesn't leak one little bit. Also you can choose whatever size pot you want, just remember that you should probably leave the thermometer at least an inch or so from the bottom and keep in mind the bottom water will be hotter than the top.
Reposting the famous u/ _ataraxia info:
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Acurite brand thermometers are a good option, especially this one. I would also advise getting an IR temp gun for spot checking. I take it you decided not to go with belly heat for now, so probe placement is going to be: probe attached directly to the basking spot (whatever that may be), body of the thermometer on the cool side. That's how my boa is setup as well.
Starting at the top with the thermometers, I never did use the the one that came with the bbq, but I wanted a second one to fill the hole in the lid so I ordered two of the same, they seem to be pretty accurate when compared to my digital thermometers. Link to thermometers I ordered.
Moving left, I installed a gasket around the edges of the lid, I find this keeps the gasket clean from from meat drippings, sauces, etc. Over time the weight of the lid molds around the opening and creates a tight seal, no smoke or heat is lost through the lid.
Below shows a Weber Grommet that I use to run my temperature probes through. The gauge of metal on the OKJ is thicker than what it is on the Weber Smokey Mountain but with some elbow grease and olive oil it does make a snug fit.
Also in this picture you can see J-B Weld high temp silicone around the chimney.
Moving right to the picture of the grill grates, you can see below the grill grates a heat deflector baffle plate, at first I didn't care for this as I spent a summer learning how to use the BBQ without it. But after a bit of practice I learned how to use it and am really happy with it, seems to keep a nice even heat across the chamber.
Moving up to the last picture. I replaced the set bolts on the legs. I drilled through the legs and the stubs that are welded to the bottom of the chamber and installed bolts, I did this below too and have attached the bottom shelf with bolts through the legs. I found that moving the BBQ around seemed to stress and lossen the set bolts, doesn't help with cookin' but sturdies it up.
Also in this same picture I bought a bucket for the drippings.
Not pictured is a fire box basket. Keeps the coals and wood in place, if need be I can place a log in the chamber to warm it quickly before tossing in the basket.
A couple things I tried but didn't care for. The dryer vent elbow inside the chambrer to lower the chimney down to grate level, and a BBQ Guru bulk head in the firebox.
I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.
The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.
> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.
> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.
Original second level comment begins:
Final Tips: Bonus Round!
There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
We used the Kestrel in the Air Force. It was accurate enough for us to use to take official observations with, so it will likely do well for you.
For indoors at home, Amazon has a pretty well received dedicated humidity sensor.
Oh those little round plastic ones? If so, there are a couple different problems here I think -
Those plastic dial thermometer/hygrometers are pretty much just garbage. If you want to get a better reading of what ambient temps are, I would look into digital ones like Acurite. This is the one I use which comes with a probe that can stick on to the side of the tank. There's also one that's like $11-$12 but it just sits on the bottom.
Another problem is UTH are designed to only heat the direct surface above where they're positioned, so they don't have much of an impact on the ambient temp. The best way to measure a UTH's heat is with a temperature gun, which takes a reading directly from the surface. They're about $20 on Amazon. If you used a temp gun on that UTH's surface you'd likely be surprised by how hot it is; actually, a UTH unregulated by a thermostat can get dangerously hot for an animal to touch.
What you might want to look into is a ceramic heat emitter; it's an unlighted bulb that screws into a heat lamp and it'll heat the air temperatures below the lamp. You'd probably have to experiment with different wattages or get a dimmer for it to get temps around what you'd want
Hey! Thanks for all the great info you've posted in this thread and all others. One thing I've noticed however is that your resources recommend this therm/hygrometer, but the product description indicates that it measures indoor humidity at the unit itself, not at the probe location. Assuming you use a unit similar to this one, do you have the unit mounted inside the enclosure somehow? If not, how do you get an accurate humidity reading from inside?
EDIT this link you provided below shows the same thermo/hygro unit attached to the inside of the tub with adhesive velcro strips - something I've been very thoroughly warned against by your link to that poor injured corn that ended up dying.
> Also, can anyone possibly point me to any cheaper alternatives to a thermometer/hygrometer? eg something more generic, not specific for reptiles.. my local pet store wants $35 a pop for them
this is the go to hygro/thermometer. As a note, the probe reads temp only, and the display reads both temp and humidity, most put the display on cool side and probe on warm
I use this indoor/outdoor wireless thermometer/hygrometer. Records max/min temp and humidity (all time and over 24hr period) in memory. It's 3oz (without batteries), so not the lightest, but worth the weight for me. It's pretty fun being able to see the freezing temps outside your tent while wrapped up in a sleeping bag. If you want a similar thing which records only temperature then they are available at around 2oz.
There are some alternatives which connect to an iphone/android app which are much lighter, but more expensive.
I was gifted this one from Amazon for Christmas a couple of years ago and have been very happy with it and have added additional sensors to monitor some cold frames and seed starting rack. It does display the temperature of the base station so that would not meet one of requirements but otherwise the range is decent and the sensors are cheap and easy to add on.
Bury it in the ground. Seriously. A couple feet underground is significantly cooler than above ground. Put your jars in sealed 5 gallon buckets.
A remote temperature/humidity monitor could help.
ThermoPro TP65 Digital Wireless Hygrometer Indoor Outdoor Thermometer Wireless Temperature and Humidity Monitor with Jumbo Touchscreen and Backlight Humidity Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBRR6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OdGJBb6NV8174
I recommend this. Cheap, seems accurate, and you can keep the main station upstairs. As a bonus get add on sensors and measure outside conditions as well.
ThermoPro TP65 Digital Wireless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBRR6S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
What's the humidity in the basement? You'll want to keep it about 50% or under. All homeowners should have a humidity meter (hygrometer). If you get an indoor/outdoor one, you can keep the outdoor one in your basement, so you can monitor the temp/humidity on your main level as well as the basement. If your dehumidifier isn't able to keep it at 50% or under, it's either too small or you could set it up so it drains to a drain or sump pump so you don't have to empty the bucket. Or you have a leak or water infiltration problem.
Are there any places in the basement where you can see dirt? Maybe under the stairs or under a tub/shower (where the plumbing goes into the ground), or a crawlspace area, or where the foundation meets "regular" walls? If so, that could be the source of the smell - closing up a hole under the tub/shower improved/removed the last lingering smell in my basement.
Is there a drop ceiling where mice have been? It might be nasty up there. You might want to dispose of the drop ceiling panels.
Finished walls - do you see any evidence of water problems? Look with a bright flashlight for any rust or stains or anything that might indicate that there's been water problems in the past. If you find any, that's where you'll want to look for mold. If there's mold, the place that you've checked might not be the area where mold is. Did the back of the drywall that you cut out look fine? Think about where leaks or problems might have happened (around water heater, sump pump, anything water related), and near any windows.
Others have accurately said that the walls aren't finished in the way that we now know is better. XPS on the exterior walls, then framing & drywall is the way to go if you have to do it from the inside. Like someone said, you have to cover the foam with drywall for fire safety purposes. The way they used to finish basement walls just leads to moisture being trapped and condensation problems.
u/_ataraxia has a lot of good information. I've stolen their list of links and information for you to go through, but all the credit for this belongs to them. (Also I don't know how to embed links into the comments since I'm a reddit noob so please excuse the messiness)
the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations in case you need to get any supplies yourself.
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
spyder robotics (http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1) makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat.
heat tape (http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape) or ultratherm heat pads (http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads) are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options.
a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer (https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/) allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
an infrared thermometer (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/) allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
these hide boxes (http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes) are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
edit: Just fixed some formatting to make it easier to read.
$23
REOTEMP FG20P Backyard Compost Thermometer - 20" Stem, Fahrenheit with Composting Instructions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P5RGMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xooozb9WRZB11
Personally I use these generic branded CX201 - A units. (be aware the link I provided is shipping from China, and will take a while). I have half a dozen and while they are cheap they have been relatively uniform and accurate throughout all the examples I have.
[The AcuRite](AcuRite 00891A3 Indoor/Outdoor Digital Thermometer with Humidity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BO8CUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LIiRAbCEG2W80) indoor outdoor plus humidity units are very popular and come highly recommended.
They do make them with short stubby probes (flat on the end) or you can get a thermowell, which is usually larger and less likely to rip the bag. But definitely shorter, although that will compromise the accuracy a bit.
You can also use a compost thermometer from the top, when you want to read the temp. You can check the temp in several places that way.
Here's u/ataraxia's classic link dump I found on a other post. Although the informstion is written for bps (most common snake people have trouble with it seems- mostly due to the humedity) but the suggestions could definitely help you for the humedity aspect needed for your boa.
You should definitely read it through.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Great! That should also serve as an example too: if it was that easy for you to take off and expose the adhesive, imagine how easy it would have been for a snake!
This is the digital one that Ataraxia has in her link dump. I was concerned because of the reviews, but actually looking through them it seems to be a lot of people who don't know what they are doing/buying. I did an ice-bath test for the probe, a salt test for the hydrometer, and compared the "Inside" temp with a known source and it was fine. While that's a sample size of one unit, you can also return to Amazon for a fair period if something does go wrong.
The hardest part ill be fixing the main unit to the tank since you have glass walls instead of plastic (Plastic you can just pop a hole and slip a bolt through).
https://www.amazon.com/Bykski-Inline-Aluminum-LCD-Thermometer/dp/B07RT2CRMQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=bykski+temperature+sensor&qid=1566572497&s=gateway&sprefix=bykski+temp&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBRR6S/
Easy $25 spend...
Sounds like it's working then. When I was getting my system stable and the OC worked out I ran something like one of these right in the res to give realtime feedback on what was happening with my water. Anyway, if you have a year under your belt, it is probably fine.
It’s on the first page of results for ‘hygrometer’ - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LD3PBNK/
Going for 21 day on my first. I have some aged already from a local butcher, so I have a taste to compare it to.
​
For temp / humidity I am using this thermometer, so far its been working well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBRR6S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
As far as the fridge setup, I didn't do anything special. I let it sit for about 2 weeks to make sure the temp holds and what setting it needs to be at. There isn't a fan to cycle in it, so I bought a small desk fan. I didn't have to cut a notch out of the side, it locks closed well enough. I back that up with using a strap around it just to be sure.
​
Hoping it turns out well! Aldi's had this bone in ribeye on sale.. So I figured it would be best to try it on something cheaper before moving to a bigger cut.
This isn't DIY but it works really well in my spa and pool and integrated into HA seamlessly - I assume SmartThings would be even easier
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGJ4F4T
Awesome thank you! i figured i would need them at some point just didn't know if i needed them off the bat. Anything you recommend or use? i went with the FoxFarm Ocean forest soil aswell.
I did get one of these Hygrometers that i saw in the FAQ's.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075QBRR6S/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is one I've decided to try. I feel the issue with the Acurites is water getting inside them from spraying the tank. Which for a humidity sensor shouldn't be going out since. So I feel having a waterproof sensor inside the enclosure and the display outside is going to be a better solution.
I use something like this, but I can't vouch for any particular brand.
Thanks for all the info!
Regarding the soil, I bought this soil and this perlite for my new plants but I haven't repotted the peppers (only have used it for new plants). I did a 50/50 mix. I was concerned about including vermiculite because, in reading about it, it seemed it would retain moisture, and that doesn't seem to be an issue...
For reference, here's the greenhouse: https://imgur.com/3yWhKW8 I'm mostly growing hot peppers but also some other herbs.
How do I go about repotting the large pepper plants? I've never done it with plants this big. Do I just pull them out, knock off all the dirt and move them to new pots? I imagine the root system takes up most of the pot and I don't really want to go to bigger pots (I'm limited on space in the greenhouse).
For fertilizer, I bought this and the plants seem to love it.
For the hygrometer, would something like this work?
Alternative:Indoor/outdoor thermostat Then calculate humidity based in temp difference between wet and dry bulb. Link from here
If it didn't lock you could still lock it manually using the keyfob as you walk away. I'm not sure I'd trust this device to keep pets alive though. If I did I'd only be for times when I had no choice and I would hang a big thermometer on the rear view mirror so a passersby can see the internal temperature of car.
I'd also put up a note that explains everything with my cell number too. I'd even put on the note that if they are unable to reach me and the temperature is above 80F inside the car they have my permission to break the window.
Technology isn't perfect and losing your pets is not a great way to learn that lesson.
Luggage can be put into a heat box too. Something along these lines. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZOUCYDW/ref=asc_df_B00ZOUCYDW5084384/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00ZOUCYDW&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167137474498&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2895652971877154294&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021748&hvtargid=pla-314702871523
A dark trash bag tied around it and left outside for an hour should be fine this time of year for most north american hosts at least. weather permitting, obviously. Also inside a car on a hot sunny day. Just open it and put it in the backseat or something. It'll definitely get hot enough in there.
Ugh, i fucking hate bedbugs with a passion. youre top comment so you should add the bit about the infesting someone elses place if you don't mind.
I've had this one for a little over three years now and I really like it. I don't love it but it gets the job done. I bought a maverick bbq thermometer and it turns out that the built in thermometer was fairly accurate for me. The only tip I have is make sure you ALWAYS use a water pan. Since the heat source is fairly close to the delicious meat its easy to dry it out quickly. Not sure which model you have but the water pan that came with it really sucked so I threw it out. Very simple fix for me was is using an aluminum pan (the disposable kind) and it usually last me a few cooks until I feel obligated to throw it out. The pan also makes clean up much easier because it catches drippings very well.
I'm in Utah. My pile is at 130 degrees! I have this same compost thermometer, which is Cate's Garden (no guarantee that Amazon is the best price, just linking).
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/REOTEMP-FG20P-Backyard-Compost-Thermometer/dp/B002P5RGMI
it was between 160-180 for sure b/c it was off the chart and I was afraid that might be bad / start a fire.
I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXAGST4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I made my bins to big so they are such a bitch to turn. I guess I just gotta suck it up and pull everything out and turn it around. I figured sitting the entire fall/winter would have been good enough
The cheapest route will be to get the parts and build it:
That gets you what you want for $140 before shipping costs. You could go with aluminum or a smaller pot (this one is 10 gallons) to save a little more, or shop around a bit. I just did a quick search for those.
Just bear in mind that the handles on the cheaper pots tend to be a bit flimsy, so you're better off not moving it once it's full. Make sure you're brewing up high enough that gravity can do its job.
Get a temp probe for your kettle. This one is pretty cheap, and another $10 for the bulkhead adapter.
OK thanks. I see this one, which actually has both probes, so looks ideal.
Amazon sells it too https://www.amazon.ca/AcuRite-606TX-Wireless-Temperature-Sensor/dp/B00V4R5EUO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494204644&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=acu+rite+rne+606tx
Mark it solved.
I use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did the salt test and it's only 4% too high. I thought it was busted at first when I put it into my humid enclosure, but it turns out the humidity was just 96% or higher (it was just displaying "HIGH"). It does update pretty well though. I let the enclosure dry out a little bit over a few days due to oversaturating the substrate and the percentage dropped to display an actual number.
That makes sense! I'm using this thermometer in the corner of the cold side to measure the cold temp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BO8CUE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Is that good to measure the cold temps?
I have the UTH on a jumpstart thermostat, with the probe between the UTH and the bottom of the tank. I don't have the lamp on a thermostat, but I'll get another one to put it on. Where should the probe for that thermostat be?
[Thermometer/Hygrometer] (http://www.amazon.com/Chaney-Instruments-Acu-Rite-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=LHQMMUNJTCBO&coliid=IX3DGDHB4PBM8)
[Thermostat] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=LHQMMUNJTCBO&coliid=I11WG4736K1KJI)
I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Ball Python Care Guides
Set-up Recommendations
Copypasta version 7/24/2018 (c) /u/_Ataraxia
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/]
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B001BO8CUE
Or via smile link:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001BO8CUE
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM