Top products from r/AutoDetailing
We found 436 product mentions on r/AutoDetailing. We ranked the 1,452 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
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1. Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.
Sentiment score: 18
Number of reviews: 30
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine contains exclusive blend of high lubricating polymers that bond to paint while releasing dirt and grime for a safe, brilliant finishOptimum No Rinse Wash and Shine allows car washing virtually anywhere, anytimeGet a brilliant shine using only one or two gallons of wat...
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2. AUTOSCRUB Fine Grade Sponge [AS-019]
Sentiment score: 23
Number of reviews: 29
Lasts up to 10 times longer than clay barsFor a flawless “show room perfect” shineGlides on & off easily for a slick finishIf inadvertently dropped on shop floor, simply rinse clean
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3. PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP)
Sentiment score: 17
Number of reviews: 28
Random-orbit, swirl-free sanding/polishing action and 4.5 amp, AC onlyElectronic variable-speed dial from 2,500-6,800 OPMFeatures a proprietary counter balance for use with 6-inch sanding/polishing padAccepts 5/16 - 24 spindle thread accessoriesFeatures a 2-position (left or right) removable side ha...
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4. MEGUIAR'S D10101 All Purpose Cleaner
Sentiment score: 17
Number of reviews: 22
Ideal for reconditioning all interior surfacesActive foaming action lifts dirt from vehicle surfacesDilution: Heavy strength 4:1 - Medium Strength 10:11 gallon
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5. Gilmour Cleaning Sprayer Foamaster II Multi-ratio Spray Gun 1609706073
Sentiment score: 5
Number of reviews: 22
Uses 4 ounce of chemicals per gallon of waterChemical resistanceAccurately mixes and sprays foaming chemicalsFan spray deflector includedquick set dial selects mixing ratio or mixing off setting
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6. Astro Pneumatic Tool 4607 5" PU Hook & Loop Backing Pad
Sentiment score: 11
Number of reviews: 21
Dual action random orbital backing pad for car detailingWith unique tapered 29-degree edge, offers excellent edge flexibilityWorks with angle DA random orbital sandersPad is made of polyurethane5/16 inch-24 UNF thread. Maximum RPM: 12,001
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7. Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 Inch x 16 Inch) (Pack of 12)
Sentiment score: 14
Number of reviews: 20
70/30 ultra premium elite banded microfiber towelsBest suited for drying wet surfaces or for use with quick detail and waterless carwash productsMicroscopic fibers in supra towels allow them to absorb upto 10 times their weight in liquid360,000 strands in every square inch of highly refined loop wov...
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8. CarPro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer
Sentiment score: 14
Number of reviews: 17
ACID FREE FORMULA: With a balance pH level CarPro Iron X can be applied to areas affected by iron deposits, brake dust or any metallic contaminationPROTECT AND DECONTAMINATE: avoid rust and paint failure caused by iron deposit by neutralizing the reactions that cause rust and paint failure from hot ...
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9. Professional Foam Lance Adjustable with 32 oz. Bottle
Sentiment score: 5
Number of reviews: 16
Includes a 1/4" Plug, M22, Tube and Bottle.Gives a max PSI of 1100-5000Lance is able to reach a max temperature of 153 degrees Fahrenheit.Max GPM consists of 1.8-5.3.Foam Cannon measures 1.25 mm
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10. MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon I Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance Fit 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun
Sentiment score: 6
Number of reviews: 16
Adjustable Snow Foam Lance with 1/4" quick connection fitting. Foam Lance core is made of quality brass.The main body is solid brass and it is heavy for durable use. Contact seller if no tube.Adjustable spray nozzle for accurate mixing and generate foam .Turn the top knob right / closed to get the t...
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11. MTM Hydro Professional Adjustable Foam Cannon with Bayonet, 2600 PSI
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 16
Karcher professional high pressure foam lance with 1.10mm nozzle and 34 oz. bottleThe professional foam lance combines a high pressure water flow mixed with detergent and air to produce thick clinging foamShoots over 20 feet of dense foamAttached bayonet fitting fits many karcher electric pressure w...
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12. MEGUIAR'S Smooth Surface Clay Kit – Safe and Easy Car Claying for Smooth as Glass Finish – G1016
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 15
QUICK CAR CLAYING: Quickly and easily removes bonded surface contaminants like paint overspray, industrial fallout, tree sap mist, road tar and moreGLASSY, SMOOTH FINISH: After using clay, wipe with Supreme Shine Microfiber Towel to restore a smooth, glassy finishBETTER WAX PROTECTION: Wax glides on...
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13. 303 (30313CSR) Products Aerospace Protectant - Ultimate UV Protection - Keeps Vinyl, Rubber, & Plastic Looking Newer, Longer - Prevents Fading And Cracking - Restores Lost Color And Luster, 32 fl. oz.
Sentiment score: 8
Number of reviews: 14
303 UV Protectant brightens surfaces and keeps them looking newer, longer. This formula provides superior UV protection for any rubber, finished leather, plastic, vinyl, eisenglass, PVC, gel coat & fiberglass surfaces. Not for use on unfinished leathers (such as suede), fabrics (canvas) or floorings...
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14. MEGUIAR'S G7164 Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo and Conditioner Hfsrq, 2Units
Sentiment score: 12
Number of reviews: 14
Rich and luxurious car wash designed to wash and condition paint in one easy stepPremium formula offers rich foaming and sudsing action to gently and safely wash away tough dirt, road grime and contaminants without stripping wax protectionUltra-rich conditioners reveal color and clarity and leave yo...
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15. Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System
Sentiment score: 11
Number of reviews: 14
Removes embedded grains of metal, tree sap, airborne environmental deposits and paint oversprayMore pliable and not as stiff as other clays; Safe to use on all types of paint, including clearcoatsRegular use provides a long lasting benefit to your vehicleAdds depth and clarity and leaves paint feeli...
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16. 303 Products 30306 Marine & Recreation Aerospace Protectant - 32 oz.
Sentiment score: 6
Number of reviews: 13
Powerful UV blockers prevent fading, cracking and premature agingDries to a clear matte finishRestores lost color and lusterEasy to use: Simply spray on and wipe drySafe and effective for: vinyl, Plexiglas, carbon fiber, rubber, plastics and finished leatherFit type: Universal Fit
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17. McCulloch MC1275 Heavy-Duty Steam Cleaner with 18 Accessories, Extra-Long Power Cord, Chemical-Free Pressurized Cleaning for Most Floors, Counters, Appliances, Windows, Autos, and More
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 13
SATISFACTION GUARANTEED — Backed by a 2-year hassle-free warranty and supported by a customer service team based in Andover, KSCHEMICAL-FREE CLEANING — Naturally deep clean and sanitize without the use of harsh chemicals using hot, pressured steam to eliminate grease, grime, stains, and mold fro...
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18. 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System, 39008
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 13
SEE BETTER AT NIGHT: Enhances visibility and safety for night drivingEasy, 3-step process requires as little as an hour to remove scratches and restore cloudy, dull lensesFor use on plastic lenses headlights, taillights, fog lights, directional lights and more3M abrasive technology removes yellowing...
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19. MEGUIAR'S G55032SP Complete Car Care Kit
Sentiment score: 8
Number of reviews: 12
COMPLETE CAR KIT: Includes 12 premium products to clean, shine and protect your paint, interior, wheels, bumpers and everything in between. Takes guesswork out of the equation.GOLD CLASS CAR WASH: designed to blast away dirt and grime while boosting your car’s shineGOLD CLASS CARNAUBA PLUS LIQUID...
I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.
When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).
Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.
I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!
Here is my work from this last weekend. I am a completely mobile detailer and live in the Chicagoland area. I do not actually open until May but this client reached out to me and I wanted to make sure they were taken care of properly and establish a good relationship.
This detail was a lot of fun. I always enjoy interiors because they are such a huge turn around for not as much work as something like a full-blown paint correction.
The client had brought his car to a bodyshop to have it repainted. Unfortunately, while the windows were removed from the vehicle, they were not covered. This resulted in the work of the body shop making its way into the vehicle and covering it. This vehicle is definitely this client's baby and fun car. He was absolutely devastated and really wanted his vehicle brought back to life so he could once again enjoy something he has put a lot into.
I look forward to potentially working on this vehicle again and helping this owner get his car to any level of perfection he is looking to achieve.
The client wanted a Definitive Interior Cleaning as well as a Showroom Engine detail. Services described here
To a great help to me, this client removed the seats and cleaned them all before I even came on site. This allowed me to focus a lot more time on the interior and door jamb areas and the engine. We did not put the seats back into the vehicle as I wanted the fabric coating to fully dry before they were put back in. That is why you will not be seeing any seat pictures. They were just fine.
The interior was vacuumed and then was completely cleaned with Detailer Pro's Total Interior Cleaner. This product is my go-to for interiors. It works flawlessly and it has a great smell that does linger and just smells naturally clean. I use these types of interior clothes for working with that product.
To assist in cleaning some of the interior trim and the vents, a steam cleaner was used. The steam cleaner was very carefully used on the headliner as well. It is very important to not let a headliner get soaked or too wet as the glue is very thin. Doing this can cause headliner sag.
Nothing beats cleaning the interior of a vehicle with this brush. It is absolutely my favorite brush.
All interior hard surfaces were treated with Lexol Premium Protectant.
The entire interior carpet was cleaned utilizing a heated carpet cleaner. The entire interior carpet where feet will be, the two front seats, and all four mats were treated with CarPro Cquartz Fabric Coating.
The pedals were cleaned up with steel wool as much as possible. Lots of plastic on them which made it difficult to polish to the level it could have been.
All door jambs were sealed with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.
The engine was completely cleaned using P21S Total Auto Wash and just general microfiber clothes from a place like AutoZone. The engine was then dressed with Adam's In&amp;Out Spray to enhance the appearance of all plastic/rubber parts.
Overall the client was very satisfied and could not stop staring at the vehicle.
He stated that it looked like new again and like a completely different car. He definitely seems ecstatic to have his vehicle back to the way it should be.
The client did point out the spots still left on the headliner and was instructed on properly cleaning that overtime to remove them. I expressed no issue/charge to work on the headliner again if I come out for new work.
Reflection and Lessons Learned
Not much for this one. I had a chance to finally clean a headliner that really needed it. It's definitely very difficult to clean something when you can't be that aggressive with and just have to take time and a lot of patience.
I got pictures of the interior beforehand, but not the engine. The engine was worse off than I was planning and without the use of water like normal, it took quite a bit of time. It turned out just fine though. Engines can be cleaned either way.
Total Time: 5 hours on interior, 2 hours on engine
Total Cost: $390
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
I'm reposting some suggestions I made from a previous similar thread, hope it works out for you (the last person's budget was $100; not sure what yours is, but you can pick and choose!)
Optimum No Rinse: Concentrated and capable of being diluted as a wash, quick detailer, clay lubricant, window cleaner, light interior cleaner, and more.
Optimum Opti-Seal: Incredibly easy to use sealant (wipe on and walk away!), can be used in place of RainX on windows, good drying aid, and useful as an interior dressing as well. Opti-seal ALL the things!
Detailing brushes: Because every detailer can use more brushes!
Nanoskin Autoscrub Sponge: Makes the process of decontaminating your paint much faster. Much longer life than clay and can be used even after dropped on the ground! Use the ONR as lubricant and you save tons of money.
The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless Towels, 4 pack: These will be the best towels he's ever used.
The total for all of this should be $97.96, just under your budget :)
A couple other suggestions if you want to mix and match:
Smaller Opti-Seal: Since it's the biggest budget item here and a little goes a long way, you can go with the small one to include more items in your bundle.
Adam's Wheel Cleaner: The least terrible smelling wheel cleaner, but extremely effective as well. Good if that truck throws a lot of brake dust.
CarPro PERL: For protecting exterior plastics as well as dressing them, and for use as a satin look tire dresing.
Wheel Woolies: Makes cleaning wheels a much nicer experience, and won't fling brake dust into your face like the brushes do.
Hope this helps! If you want any more specific recommendations for any category, feel free to ask! As for things to avoid, Armorall, Turtlewax and Chemical Guys in my opinion.
Karcher K2.300 Pressure washer
MTM Foam Cannon
I took advantage of this unseasonably warm weather we’re having in December to test out Carpro’s new soap, Hydrofoam. It’s a ‘wash and wax’ type product (though it says wash and coat on the bottle), so by using the appropriate dilution you’re going to clean and protect your vehicle in one step.
I used my Karcher K2.300 pressure washer and a 34 oz MTM foam cannon with a ratio of 27 oz clean tap water to 3 oz of Hydrofoam. The directions say to work a panel at a time, foam it up, wash like you would with a mitt normally to spread it around and clean, and rinse it off immediately. Clean and rinse your mitt after each panel. It was a little annoying to have to switch the foam cannon and regular pressure washer nozzle back and forth, but I found a rhythm. The whole car took about 10-15 minutes to do.
The before pictures showed that the car had minimal beading and some minor sheeting effects on it from some spray wax applied a week or two ago. The car also wasn’t very dirty so I wasn’t really concerned with how well the soap could clean.
After applying the soap and rinsing, the beading was obvious and reminded me very much of Hydro2.
Color: Clear, slight grey tint
Smells like: Paint. Not a very powerful scent to it, but it’s not like berry smelling or anything. Not offensive, just odd IMO
Consistency: Actually, this soap is pretty watery. Not very thick.
Cleaning power: ?/10. Hard to say, it cleaned the car no problem but it wasn’t very dirty to begin with. I’m not sure I’d use this soap on a heavy soiled car.
Foam: Out of the cannon, it was great.
Slickness: 7/10, very similar to Hydro2, but not as ‘glassy’ feeling
Rinses easily and quickly
Ease of use
Price? I guess you can argue that you're saving money by not using a wax though.
It didn’t seem to work too well on hard plastics, which I also noticed with Hydro2. The plastic chrome grille beaded just like the paint did though.
Overall: I am definitely impressed by this soap. It did exactly what it said it would, and I’m curious to see how it holds up. I trust Carpro, the bottle says ‘up to 3 months,’ so I expect just that. I’m not quite sure where exactly this soap would fit into MY personal regimen, if at all. I’ve mentioned before that I’m not a fan of topping LSPs on each other, and since my car is coated I don’t think it’s even necessary to use something like this over it. However, I know there are people who get peace of mind from layering, so if that’s something you want, I think this soap would be good for you. This also could be useful for a quick summer maintenance wash and wax type product if you’re short on time, and applying by the foam cannon makes it very easy to work with. Since the dilution ratio is also pretty low, I would also not recommend getting this unless you have a pressure washer. I tried it with a two bucket wash and it just didn’t work out well enough. I got very little beading from the buckets, though I’m chalking it up to user error because I’m terrible with math and most likely didn’t apply the correct amount of soap to water.
I think this is worth the try. It may be pricey, and you’re only going to get about 5 uses out of the bottle if you’re using it in the foam cannon, but it’s fun and easy to use. Good job Carpro!
I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.
Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
The answer to your first question of what makes vehicles "have that glorious-mirror almost appearance" is paint correction. There is no miracle product that will instantly turn shitty paint into 100% flawlessness in 1 application. It will take good claying, compounding, and polishing to get the results you are looking for. I'm sure that the clay, HF DA, M105 and M205, and the various pads you have will be able to get the results you are looking for. The only problem is time. It is going to take more time to get the results because the HF DA is not powerful, when compared to something like the Rupes or the Flex.
Carnauba waxes. The consensus is that they add depth and shine, but don't last long. Sealants last longer, but with less shine and depth. Both sealants and carnauba waxes will make shitty paint look less shitty, with carnauba slightly edging out sealants. But like previously stated, its all about the prep work. Sealant on flawless paint will still look better than carnauba wax over sealant on shitty paint.
Glazes. The sole purpose of glaze is to fill in scratches. No amount or type of glaze will replace correcting paint. It is unnecessary to put glaze immediately after a vehicle just had paint correction as there are no scratches for the glaze to fill in. However, sometimes it makes sense to glaze and not correct the paint. Generally, the two situations where glaze is better than correcting paint are when you don't have enough time to correct the vehicle, or the customer does not have the funds to correct the vehicle. Correcting paint takes hours and hours, while glaze (depending on vehicle size) may take up to an hour to apply and remove. Obviously, paint correction costs more than an application of glaze.
Spray on wax compared to Collinite #845 is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Even a shitty application of Collinite that is 4 months old will still be better than spray on wax. That said, I think it is still good to use spray wax after washing the vehicle.
One thing I didn't see you mention is wheels, tires, and trim. You also want to spend great care on these three areas because they create contrast with the paint, thus making the paint look even better. Essentially, you want all aspects of the wheel clean (face, spokes, barrel). You want the tire to be scrubbed with cleaner and then dressed with a water based dressing. You then want to clean the trim with all purpose cleaner and use either dressing or a trim restorer to give it the original look. Good wheel cleaner: Sonax Good APC for tires and trim:Meguair's D101 Good tire dressing: Adam's Super VRT
Anything I have said here is open for constructive discussion.
TL;DR Correcting paint is above everything. Glazes mostly unnecessary. Both sealants and carnauba waxes have their purposes. Look into cleaning and dressing wheels, tires, and trim.
2015 Ford Focus ST
I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)
His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.
This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).
I found out that there is a special trick to putting this car in reverse. It involves lifting the collar below the shift knob. It's actually pretty interesting.
Price: $215 + TIP
Time: 4.5-5 Hours
Thank you for your business fellow redditor :)
> Griots Garage Fiber Mit
> 2 or 3 buckets with Grit Guards
You can stick to 2 buckets to save money and just rinse it out after washing the wheels before starting your wash.
> Several Brushes for my wheels/Liners
I suggest getting the following brushes. Mothers wheel brush, Mother's wheel well brush, Tuf Shine tire brush. Then buy some wheel woolies if you want to clean your barrels without taking off the wheels.
I suggest Chemical Guys, Meguiar's, or CarPro for your soap.
>I do a pre-soak with a hose powered foamer...do I need a special soap for this step?
A high foaming soap will be best for this. Most Chemical Guys soap works pretty well. I would suggest not getting a hose powered foam gun. Unless you're going off roading its not worth it. It's best to save up for a power washer and a foam lance.
> Plenty of microfiber towels
Make sure to buy some crappy towels for your dirty jobs like drying wheels, cleaning the undercarriage, and the carpets. I suggest zwipe microfiber towels for the cheap ones, and the rag companies eagle edgeless towels for your nice pair.
> Interior spray (I like the Meguiars Natural Finish, this okay?)
I have not had experience with that one yet. I have tried the Meguiars quik interior detailer before and it makes the plastics look stock. It doesn't do much cleaning, more of a finishing step. If you want to clean the interior I suggest getting Optimum Power Clean (diluted 1:10) or Chemical Guys NonSENSE (diluted 1:10).
> Waffle Towels (Oddles of them!)
Once your car is waxed you'll only need 2 large towels to dry your car. I really like the Chemical Guys waffle towels because they have good value for the money. Cobra towels are way better but way more expensive. I've heard the rag company has good ones too.
> See if I can get my hands on a leaf blower with a filter on it.
I bought a troy bilt leaf blower for $40 at home depot and it works pretty well.
I think you're forgetting 3 things.
Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.
Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!
Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
>Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!
>1st: Nice two bucket cleaning
>2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?
>3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)
>4: Nice coat of wax
>How does that sound?
Correct. A 2-bucket wash will get most of the dirt off while not marring the paint any further than it already is.
Also, that is a very good clay kit. I will pre-warn you, claying is the absolute worst part of the job. It's rewarding afterward, but such a pain. If you want, there is stuff called "nanoskin" that has pretty much the same effect as clay but it requires a lot less effort. Check Amazon for "nanoskin fine grade sponge." It's like 11 bucks. Note that you'll still need to buy a quick detailer like the one in the clay kit for general purpose spray, so you may want to go for the clay kit. Get nanoskin when you're a little more familiar with detailing.
As you rub the clay, be sure it's well lubricated so the clay just glides. You will feel resistance to the gliding until the clay picks up all the grime. Then the clay will flow smooth. That's when you knead it and move to a new section.
If you choose to go DA polisher, beware that there are a lot more purchases that go along with it. You'll also need a backing plate and pads. That can become pricey. Polishing is attainable by hand, but very time-consuming. I'd recommend going panel by panel, day by day with hand method. Claying an entire car, then hand polishing it will make you want to never touch a car again haha.
I recommend you wash and clay the roof, then polish and wax. On a different day, do the same to the hood. The next day, tackle a quarter-panel. This will keep you sane.
Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.
I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.
I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.
Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.
Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.
I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.
Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.
Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.
Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.
This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.
So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.
I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.
So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.
I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!
It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.
This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465578999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=61mdEodibyL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.
EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465579171&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465708329&amp;sr=sr-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465708329&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.
There was this one here, but it’s out of stock. Decent price too.
There’s also this. It’s an off brand (but I mean 90% of stuff comes from China anyway) and the brush bristles are soft.
This too. I don’t know how good microfiber is on wheels though. I personally have one similar to this that I bought in a kit from Costco, and use it for interior. But with a true brush style you can just rinse it out, vs microfiber that’s stains and needs to be washed.
There’s also this one. I’m pretty sure Canadian Tire has a smaller one to, but I can’t seem to see it on the site. Was in a store a few weeks ago and I think I saw one.
For something like wheels and tires, I don’t really see a point in spending crazy money on brushes. That may be an insult to people, but just as a hobby, I care that my rims are clean. For paint I use good towels and mitts (obviously to not scratch the paint) but for wheels, I’d rather save the money. I haven’t felt a good pro quality wheel brush vs a random one from Amazon or in-store, but even if I did, I don’t see how I’d justify the price difference (compared to something like a Eagle Edgeless 500 vs some random microfiber towel)
Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.
Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.
Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.
Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:
And probably some other random stuff. Most of what I've listed above I haven't even used yet! So some quick questions!
We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.
Thanks for reading this long-winded post!
Here’s a straightforward shopping list and beginners guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.
Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q
Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1
Buffing Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V
Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ
Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT
Wax - Your preference
Here’s the guide:
1 – Tool Prep
Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.
2 – Wash
Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.
3 – Clay Bar
Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.
4 – Compound Buffing
Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.
5 – Inspection
Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.
6 – Polish Buffing
Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.
7 – Inspection
Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.
8 – Wax
Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.
And this is the handle for the unit
Best of luck.
> wheel cleaner plus would be an infrequent use, not every time. D143 would be your every-time use.
So, should I get both or just Meguiar's D143?
> griots fast correcting cream and a microfiber cutting pad from meguiars for the cutting portion of the polishing. replaces 105 and maybe the heaviest foam pad, but i'd just get a microfiber cutting pad in addition to the others.
Would you happen to have a link to both? I am a little confused on what those are.
> Meguiar's D120 glass cleaner concentrate instead of rainx glass cleaner. a gallon will last you the rest of your life. (dilute 1:10)
Seems like a lot, but I guess it is more worth it in the long run.
> a more neutral soap like Adam's or Optimum's. Gold Class has wax additives.
These are a little more expensive (unless I am looking at the wrong one). Is Optimum Car Wash CW2006G the correct one?
> as for concerns: do not use D143 on plastics. don't spray it on the wheel wells either. wheels only. yes you can use optibond on all plastics
Should I stick with Meguiar's D101 in for the plastics, wheel wells, and wheels?
> 303 Aerospace will protect your dashboard. Leatherique has a good conditioner but really you're not going to be able to stop creases from forming.
What would be a recommended cleaner for either/both? Should I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on with the leather conditioner as well? Should I get both the Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean or just the Leatherique Prestine Clean?
Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.
Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.
Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.
Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.
I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!
As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.
I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!
Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:
So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:
I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:
this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&amp;psc=1 or
Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:
I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy
Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -
Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&amp;psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.
Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?
I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!
Watch this for how to clean your seats.
For the rest of the interior like the dash, steering wheel and center console you want an All Purpose Cleaner and then a dressing/protectant to put on after. I like Optimum Power Clean and here's a review I recently did on it.
I use this as a dressing to protect afterwards. Note: most dressings including this one can leave behind a slippery/greasy residue so don't put it on your steering wheel.
The windows can be cleaned with glass cleaner then coated with rain-x or similar to make water bead off of it.
Here's a post I made on cleaning the engine on my Grandma's car. and here's mine after I did it. All you need to do is cover up any sensitive stuff that you don't want to get wet like the alternator or any exposed electrical connectors...I only did the alternator for mine. Then you rinse the entire engine bay lightly with a hose to knock off any loose dirt/grease/grime. Then you soak the whole thing with degreaser...I use this from Home Depot. Make sure you get it into all the small crevices where gunk builds up. Then agitate everything with a brush. I use this one and this one. Once you've scrubbed every inch of the engine bay and worked the degreaser into a foam it's time to rinse everything off with the hose again. The whole process takes only about 10 minutes. One important thing is to not let the degreaser dry on anything. shouldn't be a problem, but don't spray it on your engine then forget about it for a few hours. After a thorough rinse you can remove the bag from over the alternator and dry the engine. If you have a compressor then use it to blow dry all the water out of all the small places it collects in. If not then soak up as much as possible with an old towel then run your engine for a few minutes or drive around for a bit to dry out the rest of it. Then you can dress your engine with something like this or this.
Hope that helps and feel free to ask more questions!
All these products can be replaced with other similar products, these are just the ones that I personally use and like.
A glaze would certainly cover up imperfections but it won't last too long. What country are you in? Can you do shipping through Amazon? If so I would recommend this, if price and shipping isn't too crazy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_y6buzb0CTB6TD
Then check out the chemical guys pads on Amazon as well. If you cant get good shipping via Amazon then I'm sorry, I wish I knew more to be of help! But good luck!
Hey you can try hand buffing it with Meguiar's ScratchX. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-ScratchX-2-0-oz/dp/B0002UNON8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404933405&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=scratchX
It will take a lot of work, but you should be able to visibly improve it with a lot of elbow grease. Wash car, use clay bar, wash car again, scratch x the scratch, apply polish, apply wax. When using scratchX, work in a shaded area, work a 6 inch area of the car at a time, spread the product evenly and work it in circles for about a couple minutes. Repeat 5-10 times. Then cover with a wax protectant / sealant.
Products I recommend:
Meguiar's Scratch X, Meguiar's Soft Foam "4 applicator pads, Meguiar's Supreme shine microfiber, Gold Class wax.
This kit has everything you need, but I recommend picking up some extra foam applicator pads and supreme shine microfiber towels: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G55032-Complete-Car-Care/dp/B0012ZEZ8A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404932960&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=scratchX
Cool, so if you want to do it yourself, the basic things you need will be a clay bar (often sold as a kit with the "quick detailer" you need as a lubricant- see here). You will need a good number of microfiber cloths throughout the process. And then the main thing, is you need a dual-action polisher.
Popular options for the polisher include Harbor Freight, Porter-Cable, and Meguiar's. A lot of people have good results with the Harbor Freight polisher which you can pick up for, off the top of my head, something like $70. The porter-cable 7424XP is like $120ish, and the Meguiar's MT300 is about $200. Of course, if you wanted to spend more, there's Flex and Rupes, but you don't need any of that for personal use.
With the polisher, you will need pads- in your case, some pretty aggressive cutting pads along with finer polishing and finishing pads. There are a ton of options here. I would recommend at least two of each level of aggressiveness.
And with that, you will need compound and polish. Again, lots of options here, but at the very least you will want one more aggressive type of compound and then a finer type of polish.
You'll also want a couple other things, like a brush and soap to clean your pads with, and I recommend looking into using a diluted alcohol solution to clean between compounding and polishing steps.
I personally am a fan of Meguiar's, and in my opinion their lineup makes thing fairly simple. If you want to go the most cost-effective route, you could still buy the Harbor Freight polisher, and then use meguiar's pads and product (many people say the Harbor Freight pads are garbage, I have never used them so I don't really know).
As an example, you could use the Harbor Freight polisher, with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and M105 compound, then Meguiar's foam polishing pad and M205 polish.
There are so many options it's easy to get lost and confused, overall I think as long as you do enough research to understand the process of
it won't make that much of a difference what products you use.
Look up Junkman's series of videos! In one set he stands up and dances on the hood of his car and then shows you how to fix the damage.
My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash,
clay, Iron X treatment,Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:
0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!
Most of the clay out there is very similar, but there are different grades of clay (read: aggressiveness). Nanoskin is great for the "average Joe" who has a reasonably clean car but needs to decontaminate it, and clay is great for a 100% decontamination job like a very dirty or neglected car.
If you're new to claying... I'd suggest getting this kit, or something similar. It has everything you need as a beginner. I used these all the time when I first started detailing. I finally needed more so I bought in bulk and gallons of lube at a time.
The second thing I'd recommend is getting a small, fine nanoskin sponge. You can try it without dropping $45 for a mitt or pad and see if you like it and the results you get when working with it.
My favorite scent by Chemical Guys is their Mr. Pink soap. Smells like bubblegum. Detailer's Pro line makes something called Xtreme Foam that smells like spearmint gum and is very great - but it's kind of pricey to me.
I use this foam gun and I'm very happy with it. The sprayer is extremely high quality and I find that it definitely helps in my wash process - plus it's fun to use! The canister detaches from the sprayer easily. It also makes no noise - I think pressure washers can be kind of noisy if that has any bearing on your decision. Anyway, if you do go another route and put another package together be sure to post it!
I drive a 15' BRZ and live in FL
I see 303 get a lot of good reviews on how nice their interiors look after applying. Is 303 a cleaner or just a UV protectant? Am I better off buying something like Chemical Guy's Interior Detailer and Protectant? or Meguiar's
I keep my interior pretty clean. I do a quick dust wipe with a microfiber every few days so the dust doesn't build up. And every few weeks I'm looking to wipe it down and touch it up with an interior detailer and was wondering which one is preferred.
I'd get a fine grade nanoskin mitt or something similar for decon. Maybe a foam gun or foam lance and some soap. Might want to grab an APC for interior cleaning, although I think you can dilute ONR down as an APC... I really like Optimum APC though, very safe and effective.
I saw this today on slickdeals, choose subscribe & save to get it down to $13.35: 1-Gallon Chemical Guys Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash
The one in the video with Jay obviously is on the professional price level. The steamer you posted is questioned commonly on this subreddit and from what I have read the determination is it cant hold up for the demands of auto cleaning. I personally have not used it so I cannot say. But I would highly recommend the McCulloch MC1275. It is just over the $100 mark but is a amazing investment just not for cars. The steamer changed the way I wash my hard wood floors, my tile, bathrooms, showers and kitchen not just my car. But its amazing for cars as well. Its strong enough to steam carpets with a microfiber towel wrapped around the end and steam engine bays with tough oils. I think the issue with low end steamers is they simply dont get hot enough which results in not great steam and just hot water leaking out the end. This does not have that issue what so ever. The unit was recommended to me by Larry at AMMO NYC who is a legend on this subreddit. Here is his video on steaming the interior: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT10-bIAgyk
Avoid those cheap buffers and get yourself a Dual Action Polisher from a reputable brand. DA polishers are much safer on your car's clear coat and are user-friendly.
Griot's Garage 6" orbital polisher is a popular choice and will last forever.
Porter Cable makes a good polisher although it's not as powerful as Griot's and heavier.
MaxShine Shinemaster M8S is a great budget choice. I personally use this one and love it.
Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10
If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7
If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it
Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)
Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10
I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.
Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.
If you're trying to keep costs at a minimum then I recommend ditching that kit. Have you googled the Gary dean method of washing? If not then check it out. Basically he uses one bucket and a couple of microfibers as washing media. The pros to this is that 1. You don't have to lug around two buckets. 2. No need for grit guards. 3. After im done washing my car. Since the water is clean I can actually save it for later use. Gary deans method has one downside which is that you have to invest in more microfibers. Honestly, you can buy the ONR, and bucket. Then buy about 6-20 good quality microfiber towels. The clay you have is good and you're on the right track. You can also never go wrong with collinite 845. For the towels I recommend these
I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.
I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray
Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?
Interesting, I'll have to give the Mother's QD and clay bar a shot then. This seems like it?.
Thanks! I love it so far, definitely want to keep it looking as good as I can.
Are you talking about getting a DA polisher or just washing, cleaning, and sealing? If you're not getting a DA machine and polishing, you can get everything you need to detail your car for about $100 imo.
Get two $5 five gallons n buckets at Home Depot.
Here's a good car wash kit for $60:
TriNova Car Care Kit
If you want to decontaminate the paint ($15):
Mother's Clay Bar Kit
Here's a super-easy to apply sealant that should last 4-6 months, depending on weather and driving habits ($18 with coupon):
Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish
And get a bunch of good quality MF towels ($18 for 12):
12 Pack Microfiber Towels
That's plenty to get started and should be enough product to get you through 10 washes/details.
If you get addicted, be sure to check out The Rag Company for some great drying towels, and look into Optimum No Rinse wash to make maintenance washes a lot easier.
So I decided to go for it and take better care of my car detail. Want to make sure I'm not crazy with some questions.
I'm looking into buying a power washer for general use around the house, and for washing my car.
I think my sweet spot is going to be one of these SunJoe's, but I've read they like to use proprietary connectors. I was hoping on using a foam cannon like this MATCC, but it sounds like it won't be that simple.
Have you had any issues with the one you got? Any recommendations on accessories?
I have never used tuff stuff, but I have had good success with Meguairs APC
Another decent one is 303 multi surface cleaner/303 spot cleaner.
The process is pretty much the same regardless of which cleaner, You spray it on, agitate it, then blot with a microfiber towel.
If that doesn't work you could try using a steam cleaner
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
Biggest difference between the SPX3000 and SPX4000 is the form factor. The SPX4000 has a sort of frame around it, making it more stable than the SPX3000. Other minor differences include two detergent tanks (on the SPX3000) versus one and the SPX4000 has two different pressure settings (1450 PSI and 2030 PSI). I personally don't really need the detergent tank and rarely use the lower pressure setting, but I suppose it is nice to have when needed. Other than those three minor differences, the units are identical (motor, fittings, etc all the same). I'd personally recommend the SPX4000 just for the more stable base.
I use this foam cannon with my SPX4000 and have no complaints. This foam cannon also gets great reviews and is slightly cheaper.
I'd also highly recommend getting the hose extension. You don't need any extra fittings to connect it and it gives you 25 more feet to work with.
I never took a class, just watch a lot of videos. If you do decide to get a polisher, mare sure its a DA polisher. The one I use is proven to not burn the paint. At lease if you don't hold it down in one section for 20 minutes lol. It is the Porter Cable 7424 xp. I attach a 6 inch backing plate to it and use it with some of Meguiar's Polishing pads. Here is a link if you want to learn more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002654I46/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B002654I46&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=perfautodet0a-20
Now that I think about it, Chemical Guys also sell like a complete kit that looks like a reasonable price. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UW1IQU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B003UW1IQU&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=perfautodet0a-20
I actually got mines from a local store and got rip off. This old lady sold it to me for 180 with pads only... bummer.
I think all you really need to do is clean the area well, clay it, mask it, and start with your polisher depending on the condition of the clear coat. edit: I can't spell lol
i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.
i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars
as well as ultimate compound
and some polish
i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.
that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.
edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.
3m kit - 14 bucks on amazon. It has a final rubbing compound after the sanding. Then seal it once again, and you are good.
I took some terrible forester headlights to perfectly clear and beautiful with it. AND it allows you to use your drill to polish. Which makes it WAY better.
I had this issue and aside from a tool to get in the corners, you really are simply lacking in good microfibers. Once I bought some good ones for the first time in my life, I realized how crucial towels are in the whole equation of detailing. These are the ones I bought which are just great, in fact the best mf towels I own currently: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1
I just bought a ryobi 2000psi 1.2 gpm machine and a $20 MATTC foam gun and it worked extremely well, just like the chemical guys videos, tons of fun. The pressure washer also cleaned my deck and driveway surprisingly well. I'm super pleased with it. If you're ordering online the sun joe spx3000 is more powerful for the same price, at 2030 psi and 1.75 gpm, but being able to go a mile from my house to return my unit if anything came up was a big point to me too.
I used chemical guys citrus wash and gloss (it's worth it to get a gallon) with three pumps (3oz) and the foam cannon turned full open to max foam. It made a really thick shaving cream like lather.
Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?
Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Basic detailing goes like this
You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.
I use a Porter Cable for application / removal
For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.
They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.
They make buff pads for removing wax
For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-6112--Black-
Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.
You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.
What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.
You did half of the work required to get your desired results. In order to remove the 2000 grit sanding marks you need to polish them out. You are basically using a liquid that has abrasives in it, think of it as liquid sand paper. You put some compound on the orange foam pad and then polish it out with a machine polisher. Like sandpaper, compound leaves scratches, although they are very fine. You need to use a less abrasive polish on a less abrasive pad, the white one. This brings back the clarity and then you can clear coat them. You can keep it simple and buy something like this which will attach to a power drill. https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478747348&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3m+headlight+polishing+kit
I would pick up the following, if you are ready for machine polishing, you will need to pick up a DA polisher and pads as well.
Definitely give Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner a try. I have had amazing success with this stuff. It will turn from green to red as it is working and breaking down iron particles and break dust.
Also, you can give either CarPro's Iron-X or TRIX (Tar and Iron Remover) a try.
Honestly, by looking at the picture, the Sonax should clean up the break dust and those streaks. Just let it sit on the wheel for a couple minutes and agitate it with a brush. I use this brush to get in behind the spokes as well.
As far as keeping brake dust from accumulating as quick, I'm not sure if there's really a remedy. You can wax your rims, there is stuff out there specifically made for rims, but I've never used it, so I'll let someone with experience speak on that. However, I read the other day someone used Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on their rims (same wax I use). I may give this a try next time I wash the car and see if it helps control the brake dust.
I actually LOVE the chemical guys gold MF towel
I've used many different types of towels and these just suit me the best. They're cheap enough ( I got a pack of 12 for $16 so I bought as many as I could afford.)
They last a long time with proper care but ate cheap enough that I'm not afraid to toss them when necessary. Enjoy!
Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!
1st: Nice two bucket cleaning
2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?
3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)
4: Nice coat of wax
How does that sound?
Gotcha, had a feeling I had to get a better attachment. Would this this suffice as a more budget friendly attachment?
Can you please link me to the MIC_506_12 you are looking at?
I found this 12 pack on Amazon... does not look like 46% off for me though. Still a pretty solid deal.
I am also curious, what would be a good use for these different microfiber:
It's my car! Wow, she looks wonderful. In this case I am working with a "work contest" where I get to pick $50 worth of items, so I'll probably pick out some chems and cleaners. The Meguiars Clay Bar kit is in the recommended tab, for an example. Our I might just tell them to order me this.
Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),
This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.
I've only owned a single foam cannon and that's the MTM Hydro Professional. This one has a smaller orifice specifically meant to be used with electric pressure washers that don't output the same water as gas pressure washers.
When I was researching foam cannons, I noticed the community was split on cheap <$20 foam cannons (the ones that pop up on Amazon by searching for "foam cannon"), and by higher end >$50 foam cannons like the MTM I have.
A lot of people were saying the cheaper ones performed just as well as the expensive ones, and a lot of people said they didn't. One thing I knew for sure from watching take-apart videos, was that the internal construction for more expensive foam cannons was a lot better than the cheaper ones. I figured if I was going to be using this in a business setting, I should opt for the more expensive one ensuring I get the better quality.
Great job! Hope you used something other than Armor All otherwise he’s going to have a nice haze on the inside of his windshield.
Aerospace 303 is a really great product that is similar to armor all but doesn’t leave the super greasy feel or oily haze.
303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.
The new products were the Eagle One wheel cleaner and the Meguiar's Quik Detailer. I'm very happy with them!
Depends on your budget. I use CarPro Reset shampoo as it cleans extremely well. However, you can also use Meguiars Gold Class and it does quite well. For wax, I would stay away from paste waxes. Find a good liquid wax as it spreads thinner which makes removal easier. Alternatively, if you want the same protection, if you do order from CarPro, pick up their Hydr02 Lite, which is a spray sealant that lasts just as long as wax. Just spray it on while wet, and rinse with high pressure. Protection for 3-4 months. Links below:
Reset - https://www.carpro-us.com/wash/carpro-reset-car-wash-500ml-17oz/
Hydr02 - https://www.carpro-us.com/coatings-sealants-spray-wax/carpro-hydro2-lite-1-liter/
Meguiars Gold Class - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549208569&sr=8-5&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash
You can get CarPro from Amazon but its more expensive. Hope this helps!
In my opinion, if this is your first polisher and you're not a seasoned professional, I would not recommend it.
Look for the Griots Garage 6in dual action polisher or the Porter Cable 7424xp 6in dual action. Both can be had for nearly as cheap. I kept the GG polisher in my Amazon waitlist because it goes on sale from time to time for $155'ish which is a steal.
Griot's Garage 10813LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25-Feet Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009UKUURO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DKqxzbQJ5NVFQ
PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6Jqxzb3VNSE56
Also, check out the wikilinks in the sidebar for recommended products - http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/index
Mr. Machine has good points.
Less of a chance to F something up.
And yes, you can get some foam without a HP washer. Use a foam gun, but the foam won't be as thick as using a HP machine with a foam attachment thingy. Search youtube :)
This is the one I went with:
I have had it on for a year and it is holding up great. The velcro is very strong and it holds well.
This is the Megs kit I was talking about. I figured the cheap towels would be good for dirty jobs like wheels and exhaust. I'll take a look at the Griots offering. I'm thinking I'll be going with hand polishing for now. I want to get a good base before I maybe dive in over my head. Which towels would you recommend over the CG ones?
Never heard of the brand till now. Amazon has mixed reviews but it you do buy it and have Amazon Prime you could get it in 2 days.
Most people here have this steamer: Amazon I've had mine for 3 years or so still works great.
What do you mean by air blower/sheeting? I have tried an air compressor and the pressure is just too high and breaks up the beads of water bit doesn't really blow them off. But yeah I need to get the buckets and grit guards and the sheepskin wash mitt.I have been using a microfiber sponge thing kind of like this. What kind of cloth do you recommend for applying wax and what brand wax? I have been using some wax that came with the vehicle but I'm just about out and I've been applying it with some microfiber wax applicator towels from O'Reill. Also how often should I wash the wax applicators and how?
I was just at Walmart and picket up some of this, not sure if it's recommended or not. I also got one of these but I'm not really sure of the purpose of it, I just keep hearing people talking about using "clay bar"¿?.
Sorry for the wall of questions, but like I said I'm really new to this and would greatly appreciate of you could answer most of them (if not all)
You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.
Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.
My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:
ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax
Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?
So I've been lurking here for several weeks trying to soak up what I can. I've checked out the wiki page on starter kits and I guess I'm just wondering a couple things based on the list to get myself going.
Gonna get the buckets and the grit guards. I've got a ton of microfibers I use for my car already.
I was thinking of getting the Griot's DA polisher recommended (here)[https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10813STDCRD-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B009UKUUWE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462198536&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=griots+da+polisher&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;linkId=3a68733089f6c8d0f136c31b5c3bb8d1]
I guess I'm wondering what chemicals I should be using on my vehicle?
I do live in an apartment complex though so I DO NOT have access to a hose because our landlord has got it under lock and key. I read a few days ago about a product that someone used outside and it was still ok (though I do have access to a garage!).
I guess I'm just more lost as to where to start besides the DA polisher.
edit: Oh! I've used a clay bar before and while it was nice, I was wondering about this nanoskin sponge that's also recommended.
Is that like a 1:1 sub for clay bars? Same thing just not wasted if dropped?
How long do Sun Joe washers usually last? I just purchased the Sun Joe SPX3000 February 22nd. So far it's been pretty great; however, I do wish the hose for the gun was longer. I find myself having to move the washer a lot and with three separate wires/hoses to watch out for, they can get tangled pretty easily. I bought a foam cannon for it too and have been using Meguiar's Gold Class with it (not foaming that great, but I want to use it all before I move onto Chemical Guy's Mr. Pink). Your comment indicating that they aren't built to last has me questioning my purchase.
Would you happen to have any recommendations for a pressure washer that will last a while, good quality, less than $200, and still works with the electric pressure washer version of the MTM Foam Cannon?
I feel like these steamers don't produce enough hot steam to make it effective. It'll be shooting hot water more than steam. IMO, there are better cleaning methods than using a subpar steamer.
If you do decide to get a steamer, there are a couple users that get the McCulloch steamers that you can find on Amazon.
I recently bought a Meguiar's kit along with some of their microfibers and a "Water Magnet" in order to do my very first detail. My car is a white 2000 Subaru Outback and I was looking around stores and saw that Meguiar's offers a wax specific to white vehicles. I was wondering, is this just a marketing ploy or will it actually improve the end look of my car over the "Gold Class Carnauba Plus" included in my little kit. Thanks in advance for any help!
Link to kit purchased:
Link to White Wax I'm referring to:
I used this before I got a pressure washer
(Sorry for long link)
It works ok but I needed to use a lot of soap to get it to foam well and even then it was kinda watery foam. But if you only have a garden hose I would recommend something like this.
Yeah it was really only a couple charts, didn't give much detail. I found this Meguiar's Start Kit on Amazon for $50. Seems like it has pretty much everything. I was just gonna get another set of microfiber cloths to go with it, and maybe a separate wash mitt for the wheels. What do you think?
I'm looking for some assistance with finishing up a cleanup job on some tree sap that inundated my windshield. It got covered in thousands of flecks of tree sap a few weeks ago, and while clay barring it this weekend removed most of it (and finally made my windshield non-dangerous when facing the sun), it didn't quite remove all of the sap. There are still very slight flecks visible in the windshield when looking through it from the inside directly at a light source. It looks like this, but much less pronounced (that photo was taken before the clay bar).
I would love to remove the last of these flecks and bring my windshield back to its pristine transparency from when I got the car delivered 2 months ago, but I just don't have a clue what to do. This was the very first time I've ever done clay bar, and I used this product. Maybe a different product would get rid of the last remnants of that sap?
The Gilmour Foamaster II is probably what you're looking. I bought a Chinese knock off of Amazon (Canada) for a fraction of the cost of the Gilmour with great success! While you're not going to get the same level of foam as you would with a pressure washer foam cannon, this will do the job and provide you enough lubricity for your washing medium to glide across your paint!
https://amzn.com/B019MIV72K - Chinese Knock Off version
https://amzn.com/B000Y190WE - Gilmour Foamaster II
How do I get the paint on the right side of this picture looking like the left?
I bought the car used, neglected and abused. I've patched up the mechanical bits and I want to get my paint looking nicer, and hopefully uniform. My issue is that on certain parts of the vehicle the paint doesn't have much depth to it, but if I look on the inside of the doors, the paint is a deep beautiful color.
Would this be a good kit for it?
Mother's Clay Bar + Meguiar's Compound, Polish, and Wax
Interesting, so I guess I will save the bays for actual dirt and grime then.
So I will need a bucket, some ONR wash (Is this diluted with water?), a drying aid, and a drying towel. What exactly is a drying aid, is that like a product?
Will these works?
NO.1 Wash mitts
NO.1 Drying Towels
Also, you said you do a quick 10 minute wipe down, is that the process you use? Or do you have another touch up product or something?
Thank you by the way!
i just got this http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-95QGFMR-Foamaster-Cleaning-Sprayer/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382638883&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gilmour+foam+gun
i personally love it. i just go out and foam things down for the fun of it.
There are much better steamers out there. I would recommend this. https://www.amazon.com/McCulloch-MC1275-Heavy-Duty-Steam-Cleaner/dp/B0000DF0RB/ref=sr_1_14?s=home-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479317480&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=steamer
You will find ways to use it :)
Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.
It is an 05. Paint is in decent condition but a lot of contamination. It was sitting under a sap tree for 2 years. I spent about an hour claying the hood and it removed maybe 70% but there was a lot of stuff. I was using chemical guys clay.
Thank you..glad you said something :)
I believe clay bar qualities are different. Just like with most stuff, generally the higher the quality, the more expensive it is. The cheaper ones I've worked with have streaked heavily and more often. Depending on the vehicles condition, and how often you detail, a clay bar can last a long time. This CLAYBAR is pretty cheap & plenty of people like it. For a clay sponge it does the job.
Alright will do. I always thought it would be good to soak in the foam while I fill the buckets.
I use this foam canon and this pressure washer. I fill it 10:1 and use distilled water in the canister. It does have a knobs at the tops that control how the foam comes out and I have it set with the metal parts more spread open to give a thicker stream of liquid.
This is my set up and works great. The reviews say the MTM doesn't work with the SunJoe SPX3000 but it does. I've ordered 3 in total for friends and myself. All of them has came with the 1/4in fitting and works perfect with the SPX3000. So the idiots that left the reviews saying it does not work must not know how to change out the fittings or something?
Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Joe 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5-Amp Electric Pressure Washer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPGMUXW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-TMtzb9F0DSFK
MTM Hydro Professional Adjustable Foam Cannon with Bayonet, 2600 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDSLVQC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_BVMtzbW630TGF
Sorry for graveposting, want to make sure I grab the right foam cannon:
This is the low psi version: Professional 2600 PSI Adjustable Foamer
and this is the high psi version: Professional Foam Lance Adjustable with 32 oz. Bottle
right? it looks like the low psi version doesn't come with quick disconnects, which I'm pretty sure I need to connect to my pressure washer, right?
I purchased a knock-off on Amazon (MATCC) and have been very happy with it. It's hooked up to a 3000 PSI gas powered pressure washer so I'm sure that helps, but I've gotten good results. The review with the pic of a Yukon on there is mine.
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Awesome response :). On a personal note, the smell of a product is irrelevant to me, though I do appreciate them.
The foam lance I purchased is this unit: Professional Foam Lance Adjustable with 32 oz. Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GNZYY4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WSfkxbN7VPXR6
The questions asked in the Q/A section mentioned its compatibility with 2000 PSI, so I picked it.
Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.
Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.
First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:
Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?
So my first ever detail is planned out like is this
My understanding is polish basically scrapes a layer off in order to go deep, is there anything i need to "refill" that digging?
Does my order of detailing sound good, in other words do i need to add anything else?
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46 is a great starter and fairly capable, I still use mine for personal and some jobs.
I would buy this DA:
This backing plate:
3 of these:
2 of these:
1 of these:
Pretty sure they are all compatible with the backing plate.
I have the SPX3000 also, great pressure washer for the amount you pay. I have this foam cannon and it works great with it.
What kind of towels do you use to dry?
I typically use these but not sure if it would be the best for my car
Don't use just water.
You can pickup blue ONR https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510851008&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse which you can use as clay lube, detailer, rinseless wash depending on the dilution with your distilled water.
Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon
Those types of clay do the job and some people perfer it to traditional clay. I haven't heard of that brand, but i'm sure its the same stuff. I personally have little sponge from Nanoskin. https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510851254&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=nanoskin
I like this better than that "towel" since this has a nice grip.
Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:
I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
-Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
I got this one it's more expensive but should be the same mechanically. I use a 1700PSI Greenworks pressure washer and get great results http://imgur.com/a/sCGn4 like others have said just adjust the knobs and make sure it is assembled correctly and that you are using the right adapters (if needed). also I use McGuire's gold class soap, the soap could be your problem.
I just picked up a greenworks myself just to clean off my car quicker and no trips to the car wash during winter.
I noticed that on the electric power washers the soap attachment is NOT anywhere near as good as the MTM foam cannon my buddy has on is. So I did a quick order on amazon.
The one you need for Karcher is this one https://www.amazon.com/MTM-Hydro-Professional-Adjustable-Bayonet/dp/B00EDSLVQC
1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.
2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.
3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra
4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit
5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.
6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.
I'm planning on getting this clay kit to get some surface rust spots off of my car. Does the Quik Detailer work as a wax/sealant or is it just for lubrication while claying? If it's just for lube what wax/sealant/applicators would you guys recommend? I'm not looking to spend a lot. Thanks!
Like VibeRaider said, use this.
It works great and remember to use a sealant after you're done or your hard work will be thrown away.
If you want that particular DA I would buy it off amazon its 117.99 with free shipping (click add to cart to see the price)
then, since you're kinda new to machine finishing I would go with a microfiber pad and something less aggressive like megs microfiber formula
Porter Cable 7424XP can be found at Amazon and I would highly recommend the following Junkman videos specific to that DA Polisher. Also he states some supplies to go along with the polisher to help with your shopping list for your brother.
I've never heard of ONR, is this the kind of thing you use?
Would you recommend it? Thanks!
Harbor freight is definitely cheaper, but for ease of use and reliability, you can't go wrong with the PC7424.
i use Amazon.com: Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge and as lube some shampoo diluted in water. does an amazing job and quite quick!
however, its perfect for 6.5" pads and this plate works well with the HF pads
heres a pic i took of it with HF 6" pads
Would you consider something like this kit to be a better investment? It's mentioned in the FAQ.
I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.
As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.
Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.
What equipment and supplies do you have already? If any.
Off the top of my head here are a few of the basics.
Meguiars D101 APC
Good Wet/Dry Shop Vac.
Stoner Invisible Glass
Adam's Polishes Interior Mitt
The Rag Company Edgeless 300
The Rag Company Glass Towels
Pressure washer or Strong hose spray. (For cleaning Carpets outside of vehicle.)
Bissell Spot Clean Auto
That is more than enough to get you started. Ill add more as I have time.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I got the Meguiars Kit and I have been very happy with it. You just need more applicators, buckets, a sponge for the tire shine, & more microfibers. I also got wheel cleaner, 303, wheel brushes, interior detail brushes, etc.
Are these any good?
I have a Amazon giftcard n I am trying to use....that's why I am posting amazon links
Are the Eurow 350gsm good? What gsm would the griots blue towels be? Can i get a mircofiber comparable to the griots for $2 each or am i crazy? How do detailers have boxes of towels that cost like $6 each?
Edit: These look promising but i really want to have some one with hands on experience guide me.
So this one?
Why do you like this one better than say
I know its almost always just what someone has or bought but figured I would ask. Thanks for the recommendations.
Thanks for all the info! I ended up buying the MATCC one from Amazon and will prolly pick up the 1.1mm orifice that @Ziomalski suggested. I chose this cannon b/c I know it fits the SPX3001 out the box.
Will be here today. Excited to see the results.
Just a note, if you get the MTM foam cannon made for electric power washers like the sun joe you will get thicker foam than the one you chose. That one is more suited for more powerful power washers.
Also, if you haven't seen already my setup is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/8hnuto/my_budget_friendly_wallmounted_sunjoe_w_aquarium/
Personally, I use Meguiar's D101 though if you don't want to buy a whole gallon of concentrate Chemical Guys All Clean + is also good. The AC+ is a concentrate too, even though it comes in a spray bottle.
If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they have a polisher that is reasonably priced, I believe they ship to Canada as well. They're polisher runs roughly $60 plus around $10-15 for a backing plate.
Here's the harbor freight one
I believe they ship to Canada.
From Amazon here's a 5" backing plate
And a 3" one
The issue with the one you have selected is it does not have enough power to double as a tool that can offer correction. So effectively it is only a wax spreader, whereas the polisher doubles as a machine that you can use for paint correction as well as a wax spreader.
Keep the speeds set low when suing wax as you are not working it into the paint (2 should do).
Thanks, maybe I'll just get something like this then: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE
Also, I need to know the order of doing some serious exterior detailing. From what I know now, it starts off with a regular car wash, then claying, then a wax/sealant. Any help on what products to buy, how to use them and the order of everything would be sweet. This is a kit I've been looking at for a while: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Complete-Car-Care-Kit/dp/B0012ZEZ8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394395064&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Meguiar
I have found that Optimum works really well. Also, the last coat works really, really well for me.
These chemical guys towels have worked really well for me. Combined with their microfiber wash, they’ve stayed very soft and clean.
Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 in. x 16 in.) (Pack of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-NdcBbAN0K9FS
This is what I use: Gilmour sprayer
You don't get a super thick layer of foam like the pressure washer ones do, but it's a very easy and convenient way to put soapy water on your car.
example: foamed up
I'd try some type of glossy interior detailer. It will cover it up and possibly restore some of the oils back into the plastic.
This is good stuff.
If it's painted, you might be out of luck. It looks like bare plastic in the pic but I just saw you comment about taking the paint off.
I picked up my bottle of it on amazon. Presently it's about $17 a bottle. I'm sure the pricezombie will chime in on price history...
EDIT: Just curious, where did you find it locally?