Reddit reviews 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap
We found 14 Reddit comments about 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Replaces stock LM8UU Bearing commonly used in many 3D PrintersFits Perfectly in 3D Printer Pillow Block. Please be aware of people who leave one star reviews, these only work if your rods are not bent. IF rods are bent, they lock up and don't work correctly. These do not need any lube or grease, they are self lubricating. The Drylin has the lubrication built in.High Quality Authentic Igus RJ4JP-01-08 Sold polymer Linear bearingComes in Pack of 7 to replace X and Y axisLubrication is built into the polymer, no need to use any oil or grease. These slowly release lubrication as they slide, and using additional lubrication will decrease the life and could cause performance issues.
All the parts listed above can be sourced cheaper, but that were the links I had at hand.
Yes those are paver stones. That alone will reduce the noise you hear a ton.
I'm used an idea table for a while and its basically hollow inside. It echoed a ton. I put a square piece of 1" MDF under mine to help and then I replaced all my bearings with these . The difference was breath taking. My printer is basically as quiet as stealth mode is, but not in stealth mode. I hear fan spin and the noise the steppers make.
So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.
I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.
After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.
Good luck!
I've had zero issues with mine, and do not use ANY lubrication... I over tightened my bearings which caused a lot of noise, so when I went to replace them with the drylins, I also completely cleaned the rods they went onto, so that may be why I am not having issues. Been running them for about two months now. These are the ones I ordered, if it matters
I think that the bearing failure might be cause by over-tightening the u-bracket holding it one. I also had this failure and I ended up replacing the bearings with solid polymer ones that seem to work pretty well so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS
I believe these are what you are looking for?
Igus 8 linear bearings. They were the suggested replacement when I got my A8 many moons ago.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_S8joDbFR7WG1C
Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.
I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.
These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.
Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.
One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.
The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.
The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.
That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.
Good luck!
The linear bearings that come with the Maker Select V2 are crappy ones which made grinding sounds every so often. I wonder if the same on the Select Plus.
I ended up swapping the stock ones for these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No more grinding sound.
If it is the same issue on yours, you may want to swap out the bearings.
I bought some of these.
I haven't installed them yet, though.
I plan to do that when I do my Mk2.5 upgrade.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
remember to use your og blocks can be removed with c-clip pliers $9.94 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 6,00https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLQMMLJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
these are the bushings that most people talk about for this printer. Igus doesn't make sleeved bushings that can fit as a drop-in replacement for the LM8UU bearings. IIRC last time I did the research, I found they do sell sleeved bushings that will fit in the Prusa (as in they have the correct outer diameter and length), but not with the correct inner diameter needed for the stock smooth rods. So if you went that route you'd need to not only get new bushings across the board, but you'd also need new rods everywhere too, and that pushed the cost up to about $75 when I last looked.
Honestly for the price I'm not really upset that I tried them, but I absolutely learned to just stick with stock unless it's giving me major issues.
Getting the y axis to move smoothly was a challenge, as the stock u-bolts would squeeze it vertically and leave wiggle room horizontally, which would allow the plate to cock sideways a bit and bind. With some finagling I was able to get it working, but there was a lot more resistance than I would have liked, it was consistent resistance across the whole range of movement, but it was still more than I wanted. The X axis I never got them fully working, as ANY force parallel to the smooth rods (but slightly offset in one direction) would cause binding by cocking the x carriage one way or another.
But don't let me be all doom and gloom, if someone is able to get them working and can talk about their experience, I'd love to hear! And I'm sure there are people out there who value the silence they provide over some unreliability or increased maintenance/tuning required, but I was overall unhappy with them and I won't try it again.
I am also interested in changing the bearings on the y axis and the x axis. Are these good bearings to make the printer quieter and maybe more stable?
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Thanks for the info. Sadly yes [I bought the correct ones](http://www.3D.com/ Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OPhWBbA71R3DG)
Thanks for the info on the hotend. I bought a gcr model and had clogging issues.
I have a set of 7 picked out on amazon and my free trial expires in 3 days I'm gonna order them soon, just waiting on a link to something else I am supposed to order for my dad.
Here are the ones that I have chosen what do you think of them? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IjoDb99E75FN