Reddit reviews Anwenk Camera Flash Speedlite Mount Swivel Light Stand Bracket with Umbrella Reflector Holder for Camera DSLR Nikon Canon Pentax Olympus and Other DSLR Flashes Studio Light LED Light, 1Pack
We found 6 Reddit comments about Anwenk Camera Flash Speedlite Mount Swivel Light Stand Bracket with Umbrella Reflector Holder for Camera DSLR Nikon Canon Pentax Olympus and Other DSLR Flashes Studio Light LED Light, 1Pack. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Universal E Type Flash cold shoe bracket, Swivel light stand mount with Umbrella holder.Universal metal cold shoe mount on top to mount your flash onto bracket.Work on monitor,ring light,Nikon Canon speedlite flash,trigger,magic arm,mic and any accessories that has a camera type of shoe.A hole with locking screw in middle specially designed for holding umbrella.Easy Adjustment. This Flash bracket is with 180° vertical and 360° horizontal adjustment to allow to position the umbrella and flash in different angle.Comes with 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch screw adapter to attach it to a tripod or light stand or any camera rigs that with 1/4"-20 or 3/8"-16 male thread. Note: This flash bracket is not ideal for sony minolta godox shoe system.
>Hey guys! Looking for some advice. Recently got asked to shoot some professional style headshots for a friend and need a crash course in flash photography!
Strobist, Lighting 101. [but not really; if this is TL;DR time, skip down to the bolded text].
>I was gifted a free Nikon SB600,
Damn. Would've been nicer if it'd been an older SB-26 or SB-700. Those have "dumb" optical slave mode (SU-4) built-in.
>... I'm going to want an off-camera remote flash for headshots. Do any of you know if I can achieve that with the SB600?
You can, but all your Fuji camera's hotshoe can tell the SB-600 to do is fire. You'll have to put the SB-600 in M mode, and dial in any changes you want on the back of the flash. But you can use really cheap radio triggers to do this, like the Yongnuo RF-603 II transceivers. A transceiver is a unit that can be either transmitter of receiver in the system.
You put the transmitter on the camera hotshoe to act as "master" and you attach a receiver to the foot (or cable it to the sync port) of the flash to act as off-camera "slave."
You'll also want to get some way to hold the light where you want it, and a way to attach some kind of diffuser/modifier (softbox or umbrella) to make the shadows softer and more flattering, particularly if your subject is female.
This Strobist page in the course shows the basics of putting together a lightstand, umbrella swivel, and umbrella. But, it's assuming you're using a flash without built-in radio triggering (i.e., you have to attach a radio receiver to its foot). Also, instead of an umbrella swivel, you could consider using a bracket. The bracket is bigger and bulkier (especially vs. a compact swivel), but lets you attach studio-strobe modifiers (softboxes, octas, etc.) by the mount ring (in that link, a Bowens S type mount), not just umbrellas.
>Has anyone used the Godox 350FF? It seems to be the highest recommended Flash for off Camera Flash,
Actually, the Godox TT350 is a mini speedlight and is best for on-camera use with a mirrorless camera. But it's underpowered in comparison with a regular speedlight because it only uses 2AA batteries vs. 4xAAs or being plugged into an AC outlet. The reason it gets recommended is it's $85, it does TTL/HSS for Fuji bodies (well, the ones that do HSS, anyway). And you can use it as your radio transmitter, because it has a built-in transceiver.
But. A $110 TT685-F is twice as powerful (one more stop), and if you're using it off-camera, the bigger size/weight doesn't matter as much as if you have it mounted on the camera. There's also the $60 TT600, which doesn't do TTL or HSS on the camera hotshoe, but will do HSS as a radio slave if you use one of the Godox transmitters (e.g., Xpro-F, X2T-F, Flashpoint R2 PRo II-F.)
>how does it compare to the SB600 if you've used both?
I haven't used an SB600, but I have used a 430EX; the Canon counterpart, on my Canon dSLRs. And I've used a TT350-O on my Panasonic GX7. (I have a TT685F for my X100T).
The SB600 will be bigger/heavier, but more slightly powerful. It has a better build quality. But it shares one weaknesses with the TT350: the head only swivels 270º. If you're a Nikon shooter, it has a lot of advantages, but as a Fuji shooter, you can't use any of its TTL/HSS or wireless CLS capabilities. The TT350-F will let you use TTL/HSS and it has radio triggering built-in and the S1/S2 "dumb" optical slave modes (i.e., you can trigger the flash off-camera with any simple flash burst), neither of which the SB-600 has.
>I've also been reading that diffusing the flash is important... I was recommended to get something called the "A Better Bounce Card" to help diffuse it. Anyone use this before? Or have a better alternative
Umbrella is a lot better than the attach-to-a-speedlight "modifiers". You really want something at least 2'-3' across.
The softer shadows with diffusion only come when a light source is relatively large in comparison with the subject. Small bounce cards, little tupperware hats, etc. aren't that much bigger. And don't tend to make the light look that much different from bare direct flash.
If you have to get an on-flash modifier, I recommend van Niekerk's BFT flag, and learning to bounce. Bouncing is where you point the head of the flash at a reflective surface (wall, ceiling, big piece of white foam core, someone's shirt front, etc.) And you use the reflected light as your illumination. The BFT flag will block any light coming directly from the head of the flash from hitting your subject, so the only light used is that reflected from the bounce surface. And that reflection has scattered the light to make it softer.
But the more power you have, the easier it is to do that, because the added distance and scattering of the light will reduce how much of it hits your subject. But the huge advantage with bounce, aside from the diffusion, is that unlike direct flash (where you point the head of the flash straight at your subject), you can choose the direction the light comes from (within the limits of how much the flash head can tilt and swivel).
Just me, but it might be easier to just start with a TT350-F or TT685-F and try bouncing, first, before going with off-camera flash. It'll be easier to figure out if all you have to buy and learn at first is the flash and a $1 sheet of black craft foam and a rubber band. Neil van Niekerk's Tangents website is a great place to learn how to use a flash on-camera, before you go hit the Strobist.
Get into the off-camera stuff when you have a bit more flash exposure and flash/ambient balance experience, can save up a bit more cash for the off-camera bits, and have a better handle on what you'll need.
Yes, definitely! Lighting does not need to be crazy expensive unless you want it to be crazy expensive. (That 50 is going to be your best friend when you're starting, a fixed focal length gives you one less thing to worry about while you're fussing with lights. It's also a super sharp lens).
First, you're going to need a flash. Off-camera capabilities are ideal, and Canon has some amazing speedlites (that also come at an amazingly high price). I recommend this one. it's affordable, it has in-flash metering, and it comes with wireless capabilities. (your camera also has in-camera wireless flash triggering, but you need a flash that's compatible)
Next, a light modifier. bare flash is terrible for portraits, especially single-subject portrait work. What I personally would recommend (this is totally subjective), is a light stand with a shoot-through umbrella mount and a reflector. Umbrellas are cheap (I bought a ProMaster shoot-through umbrella for like $15 about a month ago, it works great), a light stand or two may run you about 40 bucks or so, and a bracket that fits your flash and umbrella on your stand is cheap (example ).
Reflectors can be found anywhere, Neewer makes generally cheap stuff (kinda crappy sometimes imo), but you don't need an expensive one. 20-30 bucks is good enough.
For the techniques and lighting methods you can do with a one-flash, one-reflector setup, a quick google search can give you some great ideas. However I recommend reading Strobist. Super good insight, some gear picks (that are more expensive), and some tried and true lighting methods to give you awesome results.
My biggest recommendation is to use the tried and true methods as a jumping-off point, and start playing around with your setup. You can do incredible things with one flash and one reflector, and while it can be intimidating at first, it can only get easier. Good luck!
Any idea on how to attach this light to this bracket? Which adapter do I need?
Light
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U
Bracket (for use with umbrella)
https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Speedlite-Umbrella-Reflector-Holder/dp/B072JRNNTG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bracket+for+umbrella&qid=1574025410&s=electronics&sr=1-2
Not the other guy, but for $200 or just over, you can get really good images.
What you need:
I am trying to do a complete carry-on ultra-lightweight interview kit. So I'm an old guy, and not a big guy. But I wanted something I could single-handedly carry on a plane, on a bus, in a cab, as a pedestrian. It should be no more than two cases and I should be able to carry them in one hand while carrying a personal bag in the other. It had to be everything needed for talking head interviews including lights, camera and sound. That means my setup is much more restrictive than yours, but it works. This effort is based on doing quite a few films in Europe using only what I could carry.
Nothing I could find really made it easy. The biggest problem has been powering options, so I made the decision that it had to be small fixtures that could be used close to the subject with reasonable running time. Everything had to be battery-powered no cables or outboard power supplies were needed.
I bring 3 lights and 3 stands. This light is a fairly soft key, adjustable, 18-watts, built-in rechargeable battery. Then I have three of these very small point-source lights, (also with built-in batteries and they come with a variety of gels). One of these is used as a backlight, another for possible light for a background. Add these for mounting one or two of these Lowel umbrellas. These turn the point-lights into a nice, soft fill. Each of these lights will run 60 minutes or more at full power, much longer if reduced. Also, running time can be extended with a couple of these. I can get nice exposure and shallow depth-of-field at ISO 400 or 800. (Double or quadruple operating time at ISO 1600.)
Amazon has this light case that is checkable and can hold this lightweight Velbon tripod with a fluid head plus three or even four of these Neewer stands plus some gels and a small roll of gaffer tape.
My camera case is a small older one with a Nikon label. It holds my Panasonic GH4 or GH5 with 12-60mm lens plus 3 batteries and a USB-powered charger. There's also room for all the lights, an iPad, and a 4-port USB charger, which charges everything.
And...(are you ready for this?) the sound is in this kit, too. The secret here is the PicoGear PicoMic dual wireless mic system. This thing really does what it claims: two wireless mics with good range and run all day and the whole system goes in your pocket, plus the bonus of no body pack or cables to hide.
I'd appreciate your comments.
I recently got a Godox V860ii and am looking into getting an off camera flash setup for it.
What are the benefits of using a S-Type Bracket vs just using swivel mount? One is almost twice the cost of the other, and I'm willing to invest, but is there any other benefit besides the Bowen mount system for the link of the one I put below? Thanks!
Bowens S Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=s+bracket&qid=1565634775&s=electronics&sr=1-2
Swivel Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JRNNTG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AM5WHBW8CZ8MA&psc=1