Best camera flash brackets according to redditors
We found 157 Reddit comments discussing the best camera flash brackets. We ranked the 60 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 157 Reddit comments discussing the best camera flash brackets. We ranked the 60 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.
As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.
If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.
Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.
From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.
Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.
Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)
I'm sooooo happy with my G85. I've taken it around the world. Here's a list of things I've been keeping track of:
Microphones:
Get the Videomic Pro+. The differences are that the mic turns on/off automatically and it has a usb rechargeable battery.
Having to carry extra batteries are dumb. Especially when they're not rechargeable. Also, you WILL forget to turn the mic on, then your whole shot is ruined because NO SOUND will be recorded. Trust me.
You probably noticed that you can't look in the viewfinder because of the videomic. This Movo 4" bar will fix that.
Batteries:
Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are two types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM.
Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.
SD Cards:
I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.
You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.
Lens:
The kit lens is pretty damn good. But here are the lenses that you'll see people talk about all the time. Depending how new you are in photography/videography, you should know this: we have a crop sensor. It's not the end of the world. A majority of the people don't mind it. But when you're looking at lens sizes, you need to double the number in order to compare it with full frame camera's. But again, not a big deal.
Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This lens works aaaaaaamazing in low light / day light / etc. But to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Nevertheless, still such an awesome lens.
Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away)
Rokinon 12mm f2.0 - Everyone loves this lens, but keep in mind that it does not have autofocus. Is it the worst thing in the world? No. But it's the only drawback so it's worth mentioning. I was doing some night time time lapses last night and man, this sucker was beautiful. It's WIDER than any other lens, so you'll capture more of the image but it DOES NOT have a fisheye effect (which is awesome).
DSLR Video Shooter's G85 guide was wellllll worth the $20. Most of it was pretty elementary, but I did learn so much more and started using about 90% of what he spoke about. Brilliant.
Just got some stuff in the mail today and finally put together a rig for shooting with my hero 4. Amazon Links Below!
|Gopro Hero 4 Black Gimbal Shooting Rig|
Any questions, opinions, or ideas for improvement are welcome!
Use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Selens-Bracket-Umbrella-600EX-RT-Yongnuo/dp/B00URCNYFO?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS/ - Light stands - $36
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-Cameras-Canon/dp/B01I09WHLW/ - Speedlight x 2 - $64
https://www.amazon.com/Flash-ChromLives-Light-Stand-Bracket/dp/B07317T52Q - Umbrella holder 2 pack - $18
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography - Octobox - $25 (by far my favorite speedlight modifier I own for portraits, you could go cheaper with just an umbrella, but I love my octobox )
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless triggers - $16
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though Umbrella - $17 - Can be used in place of the octobox above if you must, but I would get both and use as your fill light
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector - 5 in 1 reflector - $18
That gives you a two light setup for under $200, with light modifiers, stands, wireless triggers and a reflector. That would allow you to get the type of pictures you want. As your budget increases I would look at other light modifiers or adding in a hair light or background light, but those can be down the road purchases.
For what you linked the continuous kit just won't give out enough light...
I use this clamp on a door frame. It's great as it holds well, leaves no marks, and when I'm done I just move it back to the top of my monitor.
I can’t link the amazon pages right now, but I got these shower rods that go floor to ceiling and ball camera type mount with a clasp on rods. Takes up less floor space and pretty sturdy.
Edit:
Rods
mount
>Hey guys! Looking for some advice. Recently got asked to shoot some professional style headshots for a friend and need a crash course in flash photography!
Strobist, Lighting 101. [but not really; if this is TL;DR time, skip down to the bolded text].
>I was gifted a free Nikon SB600,
Damn. Would've been nicer if it'd been an older SB-26 or SB-700. Those have "dumb" optical slave mode (SU-4) built-in.
>... I'm going to want an off-camera remote flash for headshots. Do any of you know if I can achieve that with the SB600?
You can, but all your Fuji camera's hotshoe can tell the SB-600 to do is fire. You'll have to put the SB-600 in M mode, and dial in any changes you want on the back of the flash. But you can use really cheap radio triggers to do this, like the Yongnuo RF-603 II transceivers. A transceiver is a unit that can be either transmitter of receiver in the system.
You put the transmitter on the camera hotshoe to act as "master" and you attach a receiver to the foot (or cable it to the sync port) of the flash to act as off-camera "slave."
You'll also want to get some way to hold the light where you want it, and a way to attach some kind of diffuser/modifier (softbox or umbrella) to make the shadows softer and more flattering, particularly if your subject is female.
This Strobist page in the course shows the basics of putting together a lightstand, umbrella swivel, and umbrella. But, it's assuming you're using a flash without built-in radio triggering (i.e., you have to attach a radio receiver to its foot). Also, instead of an umbrella swivel, you could consider using a bracket. The bracket is bigger and bulkier (especially vs. a compact swivel), but lets you attach studio-strobe modifiers (softboxes, octas, etc.) by the mount ring (in that link, a Bowens S type mount), not just umbrellas.
>Has anyone used the Godox 350FF? It seems to be the highest recommended Flash for off Camera Flash,
Actually, the Godox TT350 is a mini speedlight and is best for on-camera use with a mirrorless camera. But it's underpowered in comparison with a regular speedlight because it only uses 2AA batteries vs. 4xAAs or being plugged into an AC outlet. The reason it gets recommended is it's $85, it does TTL/HSS for Fuji bodies (well, the ones that do HSS, anyway). And you can use it as your radio transmitter, because it has a built-in transceiver.
But. A $110 TT685-F is twice as powerful (one more stop), and if you're using it off-camera, the bigger size/weight doesn't matter as much as if you have it mounted on the camera. There's also the $60 TT600, which doesn't do TTL or HSS on the camera hotshoe, but will do HSS as a radio slave if you use one of the Godox transmitters (e.g., Xpro-F, X2T-F, Flashpoint R2 PRo II-F.)
>how does it compare to the SB600 if you've used both?
I haven't used an SB600, but I have used a 430EX; the Canon counterpart, on my Canon dSLRs. And I've used a TT350-O on my Panasonic GX7. (I have a TT685F for my X100T).
The SB600 will be bigger/heavier, but more slightly powerful. It has a better build quality. But it shares one weaknesses with the TT350: the head only swivels 270º. If you're a Nikon shooter, it has a lot of advantages, but as a Fuji shooter, you can't use any of its TTL/HSS or wireless CLS capabilities. The TT350-F will let you use TTL/HSS and it has radio triggering built-in and the S1/S2 "dumb" optical slave modes (i.e., you can trigger the flash off-camera with any simple flash burst), neither of which the SB-600 has.
>I've also been reading that diffusing the flash is important... I was recommended to get something called the "A Better Bounce Card" to help diffuse it. Anyone use this before? Or have a better alternative
Umbrella is a lot better than the attach-to-a-speedlight "modifiers". You really want something at least 2'-3' across.
The softer shadows with diffusion only come when a light source is relatively large in comparison with the subject. Small bounce cards, little tupperware hats, etc. aren't that much bigger. And don't tend to make the light look that much different from bare direct flash.
If you have to get an on-flash modifier, I recommend van Niekerk's BFT flag, and learning to bounce. Bouncing is where you point the head of the flash at a reflective surface (wall, ceiling, big piece of white foam core, someone's shirt front, etc.) And you use the reflected light as your illumination. The BFT flag will block any light coming directly from the head of the flash from hitting your subject, so the only light used is that reflected from the bounce surface. And that reflection has scattered the light to make it softer.
But the more power you have, the easier it is to do that, because the added distance and scattering of the light will reduce how much of it hits your subject. But the huge advantage with bounce, aside from the diffusion, is that unlike direct flash (where you point the head of the flash straight at your subject), you can choose the direction the light comes from (within the limits of how much the flash head can tilt and swivel).
Just me, but it might be easier to just start with a TT350-F or TT685-F and try bouncing, first, before going with off-camera flash. It'll be easier to figure out if all you have to buy and learn at first is the flash and a $1 sheet of black craft foam and a rubber band. Neil van Niekerk's Tangents website is a great place to learn how to use a flash on-camera, before you go hit the Strobist.
Get into the off-camera stuff when you have a bit more flash exposure and flash/ambient balance experience, can save up a bit more cash for the off-camera bits, and have a better handle on what you'll need.
I got these on a tip from /u/evanrphoto and they are awesome!
Man, I really like the control of exposure on this, how the tan suit has gone almost white... but the skin on her face feels too blown for my tastes, like a half stop down. Since you're using lights, look into one of these - handy as freakin' hell for cutting off specific light like that! Many sizes and densities available. Just needs a stand and a grip head, sometime a short boom. Also, since you're doing LED, check out this under-fifty-bucks problem solver - dimming and color temp controlled by your phone - I shot three interviews today and used it as a cheekbone light from behind, stuck one of these on it. Awesome ass-kicking little fill or detail light for the bucks!
I got two clamps that will clip to furniture. I have one on a shelf, the other on a curtain rail and they work bloody perfect. Great too if you travel with them and they're very small. Definitely better than having a tripod taking up space!
Only £15 for 2!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667294&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=dslr+clamp
These Ravelli 10' heavy duty stands have been working well for me for OCF.
I use this Manfrotto Nano stand for destinations or sometimes if I just need something for details or portraits.
And I use these clamps if I can get away without using stands.
This is what I found. Very close to what I previously saw. I also bought the arm.... https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=email&A=details&Q=&sku=818219&is=REG https://www.amazon.com/FOTYRIG-Friction-Articulating-Monitor-Microphones/dp/B01LYPFSCM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521765630&sr=8-1&keywords=fotyrig+magic+arm
I find best to use these
https://www.amazon.com/InterDesign-Constant-Tension-Bathroom-Curtain/dp/B00F3B4YPS
with these
https://www.amazon.com/2Pack-ChromLives-Camera-Clamp-Monitor/dp/B07GZ1D4BB
Similar to this picture.
Looks good and can be reused over and over again.
Celestron 51630 Star Pointer Telescope Finderscope, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009X3UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gf8SDb6XS65VB
And this
Alstar Silver Plate for The Flash Shoe of DSLR Cameras - Mount The 1X40RD Reflex Red Green Dot Sight to DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GQR2FJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zg8SDb2CAKXVV
Align the finder with the camera and then use an app like sky guide or stellarium and let it show you where the objects you’re looking for are.
The other option is to use the camera view finder and star hop.
Edit: just to add some context I personally have both of these items and you simply replace the base of the finder scope with the silver plate. 3 screws total it takes about 30 seconds.
Then it will slide right on to the hot shoe and sit there pretty firmly. Even if I turn my camera completely upside down and shake it, the finder stays in place.
Had a similar problem over the summer, and my solution was these beauties: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/
Depending on what country you're in, you might still be able to get something from Amazon for tomorrow.
I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)
Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7
White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8
Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6
Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT
I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?
The D5100 is not a great choice for video, as it doesn't allow you to adjust aperture while shooting video which makes it a real pain getting your exposure correct.
For ~$100 more than the SX60HS you could grab a Panasonic G7 which also supports 4k and has a whole lot more video-focused features; and also there's quite a range of relatively inexpensive M43 glass that costs a lot less than Nikon mount lenses.
Generally if you're shooting with DSLR or mirrorless you'll want an external audio solution. For example, you could combine whatever camera you end up buying with an inexpensive recorder such as a Zoom H1. You can then use a Attenuating cable with headphone splitter to allow you to route the audio from the recorder into the camera for synchronised recording while also allowing you to listen to the audio with headphones.
You can connect the camera, microphone, and recorder together using a cold shoe extender and a 1/4"-20 screw to cold shoe adapter for the audio recorder.
Given that it sounds like you'll be recording in very noisy environments anyway, I wouldn't worry too much about handling noise, especially if you mount whatever microphone you get in a suspension mount.
Yeah sure, I can link!
Canon 270 EXII flash
Pixel Componor system
Manfrotto 330B bracket
It's an L bracket w/ multiple cold shoes.. but on a whim, search C bracket and came up with: http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Shaped-Adjustable-Bracket-Tripod/dp/B0031YZ1A6
err.. brain fart, as zstone noted, cold shoe, heh.
Yes, definitely! Lighting does not need to be crazy expensive unless you want it to be crazy expensive. (That 50 is going to be your best friend when you're starting, a fixed focal length gives you one less thing to worry about while you're fussing with lights. It's also a super sharp lens).
First, you're going to need a flash. Off-camera capabilities are ideal, and Canon has some amazing speedlites (that also come at an amazingly high price). I recommend this one. it's affordable, it has in-flash metering, and it comes with wireless capabilities. (your camera also has in-camera wireless flash triggering, but you need a flash that's compatible)
Next, a light modifier. bare flash is terrible for portraits, especially single-subject portrait work. What I personally would recommend (this is totally subjective), is a light stand with a shoot-through umbrella mount and a reflector. Umbrellas are cheap (I bought a ProMaster shoot-through umbrella for like $15 about a month ago, it works great), a light stand or two may run you about 40 bucks or so, and a bracket that fits your flash and umbrella on your stand is cheap (example ).
Reflectors can be found anywhere, Neewer makes generally cheap stuff (kinda crappy sometimes imo), but you don't need an expensive one. 20-30 bucks is good enough.
For the techniques and lighting methods you can do with a one-flash, one-reflector setup, a quick google search can give you some great ideas. However I recommend reading Strobist. Super good insight, some gear picks (that are more expensive), and some tried and true lighting methods to give you awesome results.
My biggest recommendation is to use the tried and true methods as a jumping-off point, and start playing around with your setup. You can do incredible things with one flash and one reflector, and while it can be intimidating at first, it can only get easier. Good luck!
I've found mounting on a full bookcase (filled with books) to be just as reliable as wall mounting. So long as it is weighted down it will be fine.
Having said that I use spring clips (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ), which may be more secure with bookcases than a gorilla pod.
I picked up two of these clamps for my living room as more of a temporary mount. Planning on clamping them to the curtain pole, wall light or maybe on a door. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459112857&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=camera+mount+clamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41o38CfsL6L&ref=plSrch
Unanswered question from the previous megathread
Author /u/Solnx - (Permalink)
I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.
A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:
Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting
Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes
AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack
Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?
He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?
I just purchased 5 triggers, 2 stands, 2 umbrella mounts, and 2 Brollyboxes they look like the softlighter mentioned below. I spent about 145 total. I played with it earlier today these are straight out of the camera, if that isn't obvious hahaha.
Hey this is all "Free super saver shipping" because shipping sucks.
yeah, i'd do that with any camera tbh and keep the in-camera audio as a back up, just because the pre-amps on consumer cameras tend to generate a lot of hiss.
if that's the case-- if you want sharper video and 60p for slow mo/a better camera for whenever you want to shoot stills, either the a6000 or its cheaper sibling the a5100 are great options. the a6000 is a little easier to use ergonomically because of its hotshoe and viewfinder, and only about $100 more. The a6000 doesnt have a mic jack, but there's a pretty decent shotgun stereo mic that sony makes that plugs directly into the hotshoe to work for about $100.
i'd also definitely recommend going for the native 50mm 1.8 or 35mm 1.8 with OSS in them-- they're not too pricey, especially used, and the stabilization and video AF in both are surprisingly decent.
Panasonic also has some really good options, namely, you can get a used GH2 or G6 for under $300, both of which do great video.
But I'm not going to recommend either of those. Instead, I'm going to recommend the EOS M. You can get one with the pancake 22mm f/2 kit lens for under $300, easily. Yes, it's soft 1080p, but:
>1: it has a mic jack and hotshoe, and with magic lantern, you get pre-amp control, audio levels, and focus peaking to fix its ergonomic failings
>2: its image quality in stills mode is excellent
>3: that leaves you with as much as $250 (even less!!!) for other lenses and or lights + mics + etc
>4: it's mirrorless, so you can adapt basically any mount for it
>5: its the canon menu system, so you're used to it, and if you're shooting for web, soft 1080p is ok-- basically all video on the web is upscaled 720 at best with Youtube's garbage compression & Vimeo's very wise move to default at 720p for streaming. More importantly, canon has great out-of-the-box skin tones, decent 3rd party options for flat profiles, and does skin tones better than anyone (though samsung comes close).
>6: with the amazing 22mm pancake lens, you can literally fit it in your pocket, with a sharp, fast, wide lens. don't underestimate that. I'll never, ever be getting rid of my EOS M for that very reason.
if you're willing to chance it with a no-return ebay listing, this is an insane deal for it at $200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-Black-Kit-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-Extras-/301852333911?hash=item4647cd1757:g:xmcAAOSwUV9WntSq
edit: here's a listing that does offer returns and isnt expiring in 25 minutes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-SN401090-Near-Mint/252261698510?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3D9cc556ced6ae4eb2988415606b2afa1e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321987815557&rt=nc
Edit 2:
If you go with the eos M + 22mm at $250, that leaves you with:
-$125 for a solid ravelli video tripod (less if you search CL or ebay)
-this Takstar mic for $30-- it's 90% as good as a Rode/AT, and its actually easier to work with in post (which you'll need to do with in-camera audio) http://www.amazon.com/Takstar-SGC-598-Recording-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B00E1D2LTA
-this 50mm f/1.8 manual focus lens for approx. $30 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANON-LENS-EX-50-MM-1-1-8-/262261014275?hash=item3d0ff97f03:g:oHMAAOSwNSxVdKLd (requires a cheap adapter for an additional $16: http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AEMFD-Mirror-Camera-Adapter/dp/B00ACYTWFI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453854045&sr=8-2&keywords=ef-m+fd)
this LED camera light for $30: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854327&sr=8-3&keywords=led+camera+light
This hotshoe extender for $12: http://www.amazon.com/Movo-HVA20-Heavy-Duty-Accessory-Microphones/dp/B00HTWF7MS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854366&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=hotshoe+extender&psc=1
and finally, this cold-shoe grip + extender, for using this tiny camera on the go with a mic for $30:
http://www.amazon.com/Movo-SVH6-Stabilizing-Extender-Olympus/dp/B00YQD94RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854193&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cold+shoe&psc=1
This is a little over $500, so you could drop 1 or 2 of the accessories, but this will do way more for you for your money.
If you don't want an L bracket, there's this or this
But realistically, if you don't use a bracket, what do you expect? I suppose you can rig up an articulating arm to hold the phone that might screw into the tripod mount or use a clam to grip the tripod. But both ideas sound more cumbersome than a bracket.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ1D4BB/
or something by smallrig. i've been using smallrig for a long time for lots of things, including a number of my bade stations.
The tripods I have purchased extend up to 2M (78") are being sold as a pair for £18.88: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00899801A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
I purchased two of these 1/4" tripod ball brackets for £6.99 each: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eggsnow-Tripod-Bracket-Holder-Ballhead/dp/B00L23XN9O/ref=sr_1_6?s=photo&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1456881505&sr=1-6&keywords=1%2F4%22+tripod+ball
Total cost: £32.86
While I was looking I also saw these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Multi-Function-Spring-Clamp-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456947171&sr=8-4&keywords=camera+1%2F4%22+ball
Currently £4.81 each, and basically bulldog clips with a standard camera ball joint attached to them.
Yea, I have one of the smallest gorillapods and used to use it for mounting a lighthouse. Obviously if you can get one of the legs wrapped around something then so much the better.
But if its going to become a common thing, get these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They happily clip onto shelves, doors, curtain rails etc and provide a good grip, I have no fear of them falling.
Tension bars big enough to run floor-ceiling, and clamps with the 1/4 20 camera mount thread on them.
Example: 2x these and 2x these. Shop around for better deals. Look for mention of "ball head" as it us a very simple but effective method for articulation.
I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.
A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:
Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting
Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes
AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack
Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?
He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?
Is there a cheap adapter that would attach this to the screw on top of a regular camera tripod? basically a light stand adapter of sorts?
Glad you like it! I've got three of the slim edge led diffused versions and they're absolutely perfect. Also waiting on the direct led version you bought. I added a couple of these long arms to make them work as great workbench lights.
These are also good, i use one for my 3rd lighthouse (different play space) have it clamped to my lamp
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GZ1D4BB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can accomplish a lot with a single light.
I like the TT600s, but maybe hold off on buying more gear for now. Try to get good with your current flash before spending more money on gear. When you have experience, you'll have a much better idea of how to spend your money.
Presumably the Flash you have supports optical slave mode. Try using it off-camera; there are good guides to set that up.
If you're going to buy anything, I'd recommend a light stand, an umbrella holder, and an umbrella.
Edit:
Here's a kit. Not as good as the individual bits, but a lot cheaper: https://amzn.com/B01DJ11S6G
I'll give you a tip:
Extendable shower rods (or some other extendable pole of some kind), and something like these.
Wedge the shower poles between floor and ceiling, screw the base stations into the clamps, then fasten them onto the poles and adjust as required.
I've been using this method for over a month now and it works a treat.
 
I don't know how I found this post from a week ago either.
I have my lighthouses set up with a pair of clamp mounts which lets me attach them to my bookcase and wardrobe without having to drill any holes in the walls.
edit: you just missed out on the recent 25% off steam sale for the Rick and Morty game sadly
These worked well for me as I had some high shelfs so they clamp on to those no drilling required.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ALTERNATE MOUNTING OPTION DETECTED:
This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2L8S5W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AJU45U9D3I7E4&psc=1
With these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPAPFNU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
That'll mount to a tripod, right?
Excellent. Make sure to get some kind of adjustable umbrella mounts like these to go with your light stands... They work great on tripods as well if you need stability but not height. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07317T52Q?psc=1
with these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 althogh i would gues i might need a better clamp than the clips if they are heavy.
Oh just realized you may have been asking about the shower caddy rods. You have to get these mounts for the shower rods. (these are the rods I got)
I bought this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TYDBYQ/
and there's nothing to screw in. It looks like there's supposed to be a larger piece that fits into the flash bracket.
I bought these poles (£12.99 each) - http://www.screwfix.com/p/extension-support-rod/14003#_=p
And these clamps (£3.95 each) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=s9_simh_gw_g421_i1_r?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=87YCDV8QBXTC9EFKJ5CQ&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=867551827&pf_rd_i=desktop
They are solid.. just need my vive to arrive on Thursday :)
Do you already have strobes? If so something like this works pretty well. Your tripod will need a very strong head as the weight (and leveraged weight) starts to get large.
I used this, with a pair of off camera strobes (and radio triggers), that I had for other uses. Of course I was not shooting as close as you will be, so your mileage may vary.
There's a bunch on Amazon from 6 and up
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00456PGOA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398119118&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
I have a bunch of them for small light modifiers.
Sure can.
Amazon U.K: Phot-R 53 cm Studio Goose Neck Clip Clamp and 1/4-Inch Stud Spigot with Flexible Flex Arm Photography Reflectors - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVF1UMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3MeBybYQJZDEF
I use these clamp mounts. Useful if you have something to clamp on to. They have a very strong vice like grip and doesn't cause any movement or vibrations.
Phot-R Photo Studio Multi-Function Dual Spring Tripod Flash Reflector Holder Mount Clip Clamp with 1/4" Screw Ball Head for DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-RDNyb1YR21Q0
Make it easier. Do an Amazon search for "tripod clamp" and put it on the side, I just did the search and had a ton of hits. Or mount it on the camera's shoe using a 1/4-male to 1/4-male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SDKSWMW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_kC84wbRHCCV0T. Or use the camera's shoe via an adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPAPFNU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_qD84wbP0EB979. If you are already using your shoe, triple it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2L8S5W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_CE84wbJ39R2NK
Yes, those are the third hand poles that I didn't want to spend the money on, I didn't realise that they were not spring loaded. I was also thinking of the marks left by the pressure so I am considering using rubber pads on the feet. I have a pack of these lying around: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007J6VKU2
If I remove slippery part I'll be left with 4 thick rubber pads that I can use.
Of course it all depends on whether the poles themselves will be stable enough and I'm not feeling too confident :)
As for the camera mount itself, I bought something like the recommended ones in a local shop but the shop keeper also showed me something like this which might be useful for a temporary solution or for transferring to a seated area where the lighthouse doesn't have to be held up too high (on a shelf or something):
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ
If I do end up using command strips I might use a secondary command strip and somehow tie a leash between it and the main mount. I might do that anyway to have a secondary anchor
You might try one of these plus one of these.
Its a Canon 70d w/ 18-135mm lens and 17-85mm Lens (the 17-85mm is the one that clicks when it is focusing) For a microphone he uses a Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R. He used the NEEWER 160 LED light for the ursla series. To mount the microphone and light he used something like the Eynpire Camera Triple Mount.
Not the other guy, but for $200 or just over, you can get really good images.
What you need:
You can get clamps with ball joints, easier to work with and still fairly affordable. Like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item
Will this swivel and this adapter allow me to connect a Yongnuo560iv to a Dolica Tripod?
Also, does anyone have any better quality swivel recommendations?
Are the umbrella swivels a universal standard? Would this be fine to connect the flash to stand? http://www.amazon.com/Flash-Holder-compatible-Canon-Speedlite/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324340636&sr=8-1
I don't have my base stations permanently secured.
Instead, I bought a pair of these, but only used one of them, clamped to a bookcase.
On the other side of the room I have a basic camera tri-pod I bought over a decade ago sitting on a shelf with it's legs very close together and not extended very far.
I recently got a Godox V860ii and am looking into getting an off camera flash setup for it.
What are the benefits of using a S-Type Bracket vs just using swivel mount? One is almost twice the cost of the other, and I'm willing to invest, but is there any other benefit besides the Bowen mount system for the link of the one I put below? Thanks!
Bowens S Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=s+bracket&qid=1565634775&s=electronics&sr=1-2
Swivel Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JRNNTG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AM5WHBW8CZ8MA&psc=1
/u/RoyalKiwi - sadly, since your camcorder has no shoe adapter, you would have to buy something like this [$8.99 Adorama "C" bracket] (https://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Shaped-Bracket-Tripod-Screws/dp/B0031YZ1A6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link] to mount a shotgun on your camera (as seen in [this picture] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOmzPWIh-Qa3ArBuXREXuTZ_pb4vDXCxrMnrZjtIQwkCdiVdzJpGx2yKwrZuK4tOQ/photo/AF1QipM9QTY5kYaEJaZGn0yxAc3MbmrWgBXKYQ1S6RFV?key=bkVlcXZjdDVLeWRhQ0J0alJQb2VrWVBsVktNNktR), mounted on my Panasonic camcorder).
That said, a shotgun on top of your camera won't help you much. If your camera is 5 or 6 feet from your talent, you'll still hear distracting background noise.
For best results, you need to get your mic off the camera, connect it to a [$21.45 boom] (https://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Thread-Kaeser-Photographic-Lighting/dp/B00KJ19VAU//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$6.55 adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Threaded-Reducer-Adapter-Precision/dp/B01CM5QW2K//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), run some [$5.98 cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3J//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Links] back to your camera and keep the mic within a couple of feet of your subject, as seen in [this tutorial] (https://youtu.be/wJ-4MlBILDI) on boom mic techniques.
Since your camera has a headphone jack, you should also get a [decent set of studio headphones] (https://www.amazon.com/Senal-SMH-1000-Closed-Back-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00ASWZO6U//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link] and use them to monitor what you are recording. You may need another extension cable for the headphones.
Hope this is helpful and good luck with upgrading your sound!
i have these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QYQ7T71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/ChromLives-Extension-Microphone-Mirrorless-Vlogging/dp/B07RDDB8XS/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?keywords=cold+shoe+mount+long&qid=1573765626&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFSVzBDOEMwOVVIVFkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwMjU2NTAyUkc0UjVHR05CT1E0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNDI3NTEyVDFSQTdQUUZKTllSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Bracket-Universal-Stabilizer-Accessories/dp/B07DTJV2KS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3KSW2SL72XNY7&keywords=triple+cold+shoe+mount+gimbal+extension+bracket&qid=1573765768&sprefix=triple+cold+shoe+mount%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-1
Thank you!! I just went down a rabbit hole and found this thing that seems to be a similar concept. Leaving this post up for a bit just in case someone else is interested :)
Any idea on how to attach this light to this bracket? Which adapter do I need?
Light
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U
Bracket (for use with umbrella)
https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Speedlite-Umbrella-Reflector-Holder/dp/B072JRNNTG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bracket+for+umbrella&qid=1574025410&s=electronics&sr=1-2
Tripods usually have one large screw on the top and you attach a separate tripod head to that with a smaller screw (same as on a camera or the base stations).
https://www.adorama.com/alc/0008168/article/Buying-Guide-Tripod-Heads
You can get a small and cheap head and it will let you adjust the angle of the base station. (Like thishttps://www.amazon.com/Professional-Mini-Ball-Camera-Mount/dp/B000L47AHG) or you can get a holder for a light source, often called umbrella stand. (Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TARION-H-Shape-Umbrella-Softbox-Adjustable/dp/B01HHW7BAK/ref=sr_1_8?). I use a product similar to that umbrella holder for my light houses.
If you really want something solid that doesn't take up space you may want to get a floor to ceiling rod support. This is the cheapest I found. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html Though you will likely want to paint them another color to match the room.
And clamps like this https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Ball-Head-Mount-Adapter/dp/B06XQY99DR/
so the following would work?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503658318&sr=8-1&keywords=clip+on+camera+mount
Yeah, an umbrella is going to be too big to hand hold. If you are shooting insects in the wild my experience is there is a trade off between a big enough diffuser to get good looking light (bigger is better) and something that will be so big you will scare insects, or not be able to precisely control it and accidentally bump the bush or whatever you are next to.
I have these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017U0WM8
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Speedlight-Speedlite-600EX-RT-Panasonica/dp/B003Y322RO
They strap directly to the flash head, so you don't need anything else to attach them. It's not like an umbrella where you need a bracket to hold the umbrella to the flash.
No hood for macro like this. You will be so close to the subject that the hood would actually block light from the flash in some cases.
You may want to start with a flash bracket though. I use a [manfrotto 330B)[http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-330B-Bracket-Support-Heads-Black/dp/B001D2CW2I]. It will hold two flash heads but I just use one. The key thing is you need a bracket that lets you position the flash at an angle above the focal point of the lens.
Which reminds me, keep in mind you will probably shoot in manual focus mode. You turn the focus ring to the 1:1 (max) magnification and then move the camera by hand until your subject is in focus. And no matter how you focus, it takes steady hands to keep the very thin focal plane on your subject.
I don't know what your budget is, but if you want the L it's supposed to be nice. I don't know that the IS helps much given that you will be shooting with a flash (that should freeze any hand-shake motion in my opinion). If you might shoot with natural light then the IS would be critical, but I'm not sure how possible it would even be. Flash makes such a HUGE difference for sharpness of the image.
You may want to just get the non-L and if you fall in love with macro you can sell it and buy the L later. Or you may do like me and move toward the extreme 4:1 or 10:1 magnification stuff where the EF lens is useless anyway.
I was hoping for something less bulky that the following, but it might be the best option at under £5ea:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ
Alright so here's a picture of what I have on my camera
Basically you need 3 pieces:
Essentially what I had to do was mount the cheese stick to the hot shoe to tripod mount on one side, then at the other end I put the cold shoe mount on the right side of the stick.
The reason for this is because if you mount it on the top of the stick the center of gravity will become too high for the crane and the mount will still interfere with the gimbal's operations. I actually had this cold shoe extender originally but it turned out to mount the microphone way too high and I could no longer balance the gimbal due to this.
Here's what it looks like when it's off the camera.
Artificial lighting is the best and easiest way to make great, professional-looking portraits.
Are you sure you can't afford a speedlite ? You don't need an expensive name-brand one. A basic speedlite is $35. Get two of those, a basic radio control, some flash brackets, one more basic umbrella and you have yourself a portrait lighting kit for $100.
The only limitations will be that this kit won't take heavy use, and the flash won't do TTL (you have to set the power manually, which you want to do for off-camera flash anyway).
Finally, read strobist tutorial and you are now good to go and make great portraits.
You could set your self up pretty good with $500. I have a couple suggestions, but the first would be to get yourself a cheap prime lens first. Either a 50mm 1.8 or a 24mm pancake. Both are around $100 and would still leave quite a bit in your budget. So, saying you go ahead and do that:
You could choose to fire then optically with your Canon speed lite or get one of these
That's a decent, portable, and effective setup with two lenses for right about $500.
Since your using someone else's studio lugging equipment is gonna be a pain. That's why I think speed lights is the way to go. But if you don't mind, look into a monolight kit. For your portraits I really do think you'll like what you get from a fast prime lens.