Reddit reviews Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack

This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.

Equipment:

• Tripp Lite 9U Wall Mount Rack Enclosure, 16.5" Deep, SRW9U
  
• TRENDnet 48-Port Cat6 Unshielded Patch Panel, TC-P48C6
  
• Cisco SG300-52 Managed Switch
  
• D-Link 10-Port Gigabit PoE Switch DGS-1210-10P
  
• Apple Time Capsule (re-capped power supply, reversed and vented fan, WD Red drive)
  
• Sangoma PBX running FreePBX
  
• CyberPower PR1500LCDRT2U Sinewave UPS 1500VA 1350W
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• CyberPower RMCARD205 Remote Management Card
  
• CyberPower ENVIROSENSOR Enviromental Sensor
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Yellow (108109)
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Red (108107)
  
• 50M Multimode Duplex 10Gb Fiber Optic Cable (50/125) - LC to LC
  
• LC-LC 10Gb Multimode Duplex 50/125 Fiber Patch Cable, 1FT
  
• TRENDnet Gigabit SFP module, Multi-Mode, Mini-GBIC, Up to 550 m, TEG-MGBSX
  
• Tripp Lite SRCAGENUTS Rack Square Hole Hardware Kit Screws, Washers
  
• Cable Matters Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 1 Foot
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 1.5 Feet - Red
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 3 Feet - Yellow
  
• NavePoint Cantilever Vented Shelf 1U Black 14" (350mm) deep
  
  Equipment not shown:
  
  
• Leviton 61110-BW6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, White
  
• Leviton 61110-BL6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, Blue
  
• Leviton 41085-MLR Quickport Duplex LC MM Fiber Optic Adapter
  
• Leviton 41091-3WN QuickPort Midsize Wallplate, Single Gang, 3-Port, White
  
• Leviton 41080-4WP QuickPort Wallplate, Single Gang, 4-Port, White
  
• Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black
  
• Brady PWM-PK-8 B-500 Matte Repositionable Vinyl Cloth Wire Markers
  
  The D-Link is currently for the PoE VoIP phones and PBX. The Cisco switch is for everything else in the house for now. There is a Drobo camping on the top of the cabinet which will be decommissioned eventually and content moved to a FreeNAS server. Current power draw from everything here including Drobo is 85W.
  
  Cross-posted in /r/HomeNetworking
  
  edit: forgot to mention that the fiber line runs to the den where the lab will be setup. Currently the other end is another Cisco SG500-28 (the model without the fans, so quiet). Future upgrade is a 10G connection.

If you are running CAT cable around the house, you will probably want to run all the cable to a common point where they can connect to your patch panel, switch(es), servers/NAS and routers. Most people locate this place out of the way in a basement, to hide the clutter.

If you are running CAT cable you should really use CAT6A which is certified for 10G speed. CAT6 is not a standard. CAT6A is. I used shielded CAT6A. You should buy a spool of solid CAT6A wire that you can cut to specific lengths.One end gets wired to a keystone jack that is usually mounted in the wall of where you need to connect something. The other end is wired to the patch panel. The patch panel has normal jacks that you would use with regular premade patch cables to connect to switches which then connect to the server/NAS/router, etc.

Examples and tools needed:
CAT6A structure cable: https://www.firefold.com/064-series-cat6a-shielded-cable
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQL46TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small Rack to hold patch panel and switches (servers would need bigger rack):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
keystone jacks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVAJCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall plate mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQL0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keytone wall plate cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVUPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools:
Punch down tool:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LAN Cable tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are you sure you can't install the TV somewhere other than above the fireplace? I've seen situations where it is the only option but it's rare and most of the time another solution is possible. Even after all the work and expense to put a TV above the fireplace, it will be a hugely compromised solution. I'd rather have my TV on the floor, in front of a window or block a doorway than above a fireplace.

Do you own your home? You indicate you do but then you said apartment.

1. You will need to install a single gang power outlet. Don't try this yourself, get an electrician to do it. If you have a brick chimney, you will need to run a chase.
   
   
2. You will need to install a low voltage single gang HDMI port both behind the TV and wherever you are going to put your equipment.
   
   
3. I recommend going with a fixed mount. I got a double arm mount that can move all around and it didn't work very well. They can't handle odd stud placement, they stick out from the wall and they are less secure. The fixed mounts allow you to angle the TV down which is all you should need.

If there's any space between the wall and the chimney po two of these in and run the cords behind the wall

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B003JQL0S8/ref=pd_sim_23_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=31W1YMNITdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=6Y736933DX5FMFS3TDP3

RJ45 tester

wall plate mounting bracket

keystone wall plate

keystone f/f jack

CAT6 ends

The setup from your diagram should work.

Edit: the wall plate has various options for the number of jacks.

In the future buy one of these from Labor Saving Devices and then buy ones of these and this will give you a two gang hole, or here is what your would use for a one gang hole , note this is a 10 pack of them but you can buy in singles just google it.

If you're confused what I mean when I say one gang and two gang holes, just imagine you typical electrical outlet with two plugins, thats one gang and if you had two of those side buy side that is called a two gang.

Now last buy not least buy one of these or one of these if you made a one gang hole...note you can buy these with the nose part going in or coming OUT like the one I linked to.

As my father always told me, the right tools get the job done every time and the small in investment in the tool to cut holes will be something that will make future jobs easier and make a LEVEL hole to the PROPER SIZE every single time.

I know as I have used this took to cut hundreds of holes and I use those low voltage brackets after I make the hole as well as the bull nose plates to route the cables through and no customers ever complain, turns out professional every time.

Good luck!

> CAT 6 "ends" (jacks? plugs?)

In ITU nomenclature, the male end of a cable is a plug, and the female receptacle in the wall is a jack.

> We just purchased a new house and it has 3 runs of CAT 6 cable, but no "ends." I only need 6 ends, where is the best place to order them from?

Slow down. You need to determine what type of cable you have in your house first. 95% it will be solid-core cable. Solid-core can be identified from the cut end as each of the eight wires will be a single copper wire. Solid-core will also be stiffer, and tend to hold a bend.

If you have stranded-core, things change and you do need to spend a bit more on tools.

If you have solid-core (which you should, and is better in this case) you need to terminate to female jacks. Jacks can be found in any home-improvement store, as well as online. Keystone-style jacks are the most convenient especially for new installers. If you're in the US you want something like this.

If you also need to mount these in the wall, you want to ad a low-voltage, old-work box (which are open in the back and usually black or orange) and a keystone face-plate. All of these are available in multi-gang, and multiple ports-per-gang, as well as decora-style if you're nitpicky like me.

For just a few drops, I would look at your local big-box home improvement store first. They will be a little more expensive per-drop, but probably cheaper for the entire project. They will also accept returns when you buy the wrong part and can help you find compatible products.

> Also, are the ends tricky to install or could a person with no experience figure it out pretty easily?

You can do it yourself pretty easily. The jacks should come with instructions and a small plastic tool. If you have trouble, there are dozens of posts in this sub with advice. Also, you probably know someone who can help you out for the cost of a 6-pack. Most IT professionals can do this.

When punching down (connecting the cable to the jack) there will be two different "orders" you can put the individual wires in. It doesn't matter which one you use as long as both ends are the same. However, in the US, order "B" is the most common.

Might want to look into these

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat5e-Punch-Keystone-105376/dp/B003L171FW

http://www.amazon.com/Shaxon-BM303WP6-B-Single-White-Keystone/dp/B006IKHAZY

You're going to need these to mount the wall plates, unless you just use drywall screws
lol

http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B003JQL0S8


They have packs of 5 or 10 or whatnot