Best electrical brakets according to redditors
We found 41 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical brakets. We ranked the 13 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 41 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical brakets. We ranked the 13 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:
DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
Hope this helps!
Let's look at some numbers then.
You need a cable tester, that's $370 for this, the bare minimum tester you can use.. The right tester is like $7k to buy, probably around $500 to rent for a week, so we're cutting corners.
Then, you need a spool of plenum cat6a. It makes no sense to use cat6, because you can't do 10g over it for any real distance. That's $275, again, the bare minimum you can buy.
Then, you need a tool set. $60, they're cheap, but you'll only use them once. I don't buy cheap tools, your company is less discerning.
Lets spec for 10 wall plates. 13.95 for keystones, $12 for wall plates, 10 mud rings for $85 because you need retrofits for existing construction for a section total of 110.95
Then you need a patch panel to punch all the cables down. That's 47.81 for the bare minimum. Make sure you punch it right the first time, because you'll get maybe 3 punches out of a port before you have to toss it.
You'll also need this $32 fish tape, and this pull string for 14.73
To hang the cable, you'll need these plus some zip ties and some screws to attach everything. Also, you'll need a couple rolls of plenum velcro to wrap cables and get everything tidy-ish. Let's be conservative here and call that $50 all told.
That's 950.49 before you've even paid taxes or shipping, but whatever, we've left off the biggest cost here.
Your Time
Now, let's assume you make 20 bucks an hour (it's probably more). You probably cost the company 30 bucks an hour with everything else they pay for to have you employed (again, it's probably more). You'll spend 15 hours to complete this project provided you work fast and don't make mistakes. That's two full workdays in fairy tale land where you're already good at this. So let's call it 20 hours of learning how to cable and making mistakes and actual cabling, plus say 2 hours to clean up the mess you'll make (there will be mess).
All told, it'll cost the company 1610.49 for this install.
100 bucks more than you were quoted to have a guy with zero experience to install a network that will be critical to business operations for years. Sounds like a deal!
buy some in-wall rated cat6 , a punch down tool, a keystone jack ,a wall plate and a fish tape and do something like this:
http://www.cableorganizer.com/learning-center/how-to/how-to-wire-keystone-jack.htm
pre-terminated "patch" cable isn't designed to be pulled through walls and doesn't meet "code" for in-wall wiring either but solid riser cable is designed to be pulled through to a location.
Don't try and go through the outside of the building, for that you need conduit and waterproof fittings and more expensive outdoor rated cable or it can short out or cause other issues
Interior walls are normally hollow and you can just pop a hole in the wall and install a "old-work" low voltage "box" like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KJVAWDQXVY82WHGCETBK
there are tons of videos on youtube showing how to locate and drill and there are special "installer" drill bits that will drill inside of the wall and through the top and bottom plates so you can fish the wires through
Great advice already in this thread.
A couple of things to add:
Also, if you buy online, watch out for CCA cable (copper clad aluminum) - you do NOT want that.
This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.
Equipment:
Accessories:
Equipment not shown:
The D-Link is currently for the PoE VoIP phones and PBX. The Cisco switch is for everything else in the house for now. There is a Drobo camping on the top of the cabinet which will be decommissioned eventually and content moved to a FreeNAS server. Current power draw from everything here including Drobo is 85W.
Cross-posted in /r/HomeNetworking
edit: forgot to mention that the fiber line runs to the den where the lab will be setup. Currently the other end is another Cisco SG500-28 (the model without the fans, so quiet). Future upgrade is a 10G connection.
It's not quite as bad as /u/Baneken says, once you get the hang of it.
But don't do that anyway. As others have said, you should have all the wires terminated to a single point, a wiring closet if you will. That termination should be to patch panel, like one of these, there are different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6
At the wall, you'd have a single gang knockout ring (or a normal electrical single gang box, but the hollow low voltage ones are fine):
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UEAJWU&pd_rd_r=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5&pd_rd_w=mXEmp&pd_rd_wg=qvgXv&psc=1&refRID=444PKXMFYMP91YT4VSM5
Then a bunch of keystone jacks and a wall plate.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat6-Punch-Keystone-105384/dp/B019WKW9U2/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498906038&sr=1-8&keywords=keystone+jack
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-106727-2-Hole-1-Gang-Keystone/dp/B002DI48NM/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002DI48NM&pd_rd_r=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV&pd_rd_w=DssNH&pd_rd_wg=JmKLq&psc=1&refRID=A1ZWMZGZVRP2V1NT9MZV
To go from the wall or from that patch panel to your equipment, you'd then just buy a pre-made (stranded) network cable.
There are some different rj45 jacks, which are designed to make the job a lot easier, but between the tools and the connectors being $2 each, it's not worth it. Those links are just for reference, so you can see what I'm talking about.
If your guy is just throwing rj45 jacks and letting the cables dangle like that out of a hole in the wall, then he has no idea what he's doing.
$150-180 +Tax (if Prime) to DIY
You need a spool of cat 5e/6, 6 Keystone jacks, 3+ Faceplates, some single and double gang brackets and a few cheap tools.
The brackets are what goes into the dry wall so the face plates have something to screw into.
Single / Double Gang is the size of the bracket.
Single gand = the size of a box for 1 outlet.
Double Gang = The size of a box for 2 outlets (side by side)
Tools: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Portable-Ethernet-Crimping-Detector/dp/B01JU2XERY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1497913897&sr=8-27&keywords=cat+5+punch+down
Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cable-000ft-Cat-6-VIVO/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1497914001&sr=1-2&keywords=1000+ft+cat6&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Keystones: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914060&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+6+keystone+jack
FacePlates (Dual): https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-2-Port-White/dp/B0722K3K8R/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914110&sr=8-12&keywords=keystone+faceplates
Note* You are going to be under the house or in the attic. The work sucks but its way worse going in there for a 2nd time to run 1 extra wire... do yourself a favor... if you are running 1 length to a room.... run 2.
Faceplates (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Port-Keystone-Faceplate-Dual-White/dp/B004FUWY3C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914196&sr=8-7&keywords=keystone+faceplates
Low Voltage Bracket (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWHK6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double+gang+low+voltage+wall+plate
[BUY 3 of these] Low Voltage Bracket (Single Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double%2Bgang%2Blow%2Bvoltage%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1
[EXTRA]
This is not necessary but super helpful for drilling through studs you cants see. Also keeps you from cutting more holes in the drywall than necessary. If you are done drilling holes, sell it on Craigslist for @ afterwards.
Stud Drill Bit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLGT4GI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I work with these types of cables all the time in extreme conditions. You can ask 10 experts and get 10 different suggestions. All of them are right, and all are wrong. (Flame me now). Some will preach standards, others will use crap cables (some will get lucky enough that they work).
As you aren't telling us your use, I can only assume a display feed w/ audio and an IR receiver. You're trying to extend your home theater into your bedroom? On the cheap?
It will likely work because you aren't demanding much from the cables. True file transfers would likely have intermittent issues. Active bidirectional communications would fail. But IR signal blips would be okay, because even if it doesn't work, you'll just hit the button again.
I've got about 100 different amazon basic cables, I've only had one bad one.
HDMI:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Supports/dp/B008JR72SO/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1411617234&sr=1-1&keywords=amazonbasics+hdmi
USB Extention:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411617276&sr=1-1&keywords=25%27+usb+extension+cable
I don't have personal experience with either of the cables, but the reviews are good.
Then just clean it up with some basic wall plate openings. Don't get fancy with termination plates, you're adding loss and at this distance that could be bad. (see, I just gave my right/wrong advice)
http://www.amazon.com/Legrand-WP1014WHV1-Cable-Access-Wallplate/dp/B0032FO27M/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411617422&sr=1-6&keywords=wire+opening+wall+plate
http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y
So it depends on how you want to control the volume for each zone. If you're comfortable using the zone volume, you can just run 2x 16/2 to each room and run it back to your headend.
If you want physical volume controls, then you would run 16/2 from each room to the place you want the volume control, install a LVMB1 and then run a 16/4 from that LVMB1 to the headend.
As far as sources go, you can use Monoprices 6-zone amplifier and put a chromecast audio or sonos connect per zone you want. I'm personally a fan of just using sonos connect amps, though pricey, they provide the best UI for whole house audio.
If you did volume controls, you could just use one source and just turn the zones off as needed by the physical volume controls. I do this for clients all the time who don't want to spend a ton of money.
The modem and router are held in by one of these:
Leviton 47612-UBK Universal Shelf
These have a standoff/negative space behind them so thats where all the power wires for everything are coiled up. Once you have one of these, you can get some 3/4"x1/16" aluminum bar from Lowes/HD and cut it to length and transfer the spacing for the pushpin holes to it from one of the Leviton shelfs. Drill those out and put some of these in there:
Leviton Push-Lock Pins
I painted mine with white appliance enamel. You can put those wherever you need them and use some velcro cable wraps around both sides of them to secure the devices to the enclosure.
It looks like Leviton actually makes a version of these now:
Leviton Universal Bracket
...but for $23/pr you can do better/stronger if you go the thin aluminum bar route and make about 6/8 of them for about $10, including the Leviton push lock pins.
Nothing handy (I'm at work). I have an open shelf above a closet in my living room where I installed a 4-gang box with ac, speaker connectors, keystone and a pass-through for the ethernet cables. I installed this tiny patch panel vertically to the left of the gang-box. I color coded keystones from each room to the patch panel, and used the keystones in the gang box for cable, HDMI, IR, subwoofer connection and have my cable box, receiver, cable modem, router, and switch all up there.
If there's any space between the wall and the chimney po two of these in and run the cords behind the wall
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B003JQL0S8/ref=pd_sim_23_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=31W1YMNITdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=6Y736933DX5FMFS3TDP3
I would do something similar to what u/bdjookemgood said. The low voltage available here, and if you wanted were set on the condiut. But you don't need it all, you're just fishing some electrical, hdmi, and whatever else you need for your tv to function. I've used an extension cord to extend the electrical into the wall if the tv's power cable isnt long enough. One last tip I've done. Use these to give it a more finished look instead of just the holes in the wall. But all in all its a pretty simple idea.
from TV down, you can use 2 brush plates (https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Industries-LVCED135WP-1-Brush-Style-Low-Voltage/dp/B00OB21NRM/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=brush+plate&qid=1558812302&s=hi&sr=1-17) , one behind the tv and one behind your desk/computer, and run the cables down the inside of the wall. as for whats below the desk, bundling the cables with just some zip-ties would definitely clean it up. you could do more, like route the cables along the back and edge of your desk, but that would require more work.
If you are running CAT cable around the house, you will probably want to run all the cable to a common point where they can connect to your patch panel, switch(es), servers/NAS and routers. Most people locate this place out of the way in a basement, to hide the clutter.
If you are running CAT cable you should really use CAT6A which is certified for 10G speed. CAT6 is not a standard. CAT6A is. I used shielded CAT6A. You should buy a spool of solid CAT6A wire that you can cut to specific lengths.One end gets wired to a keystone jack that is usually mounted in the wall of where you need to connect something. The other end is wired to the patch panel. The patch panel has normal jacks that you would use with regular premade patch cables to connect to switches which then connect to the server/NAS/router, etc.
Examples and tools needed:
CAT6A structure cable: https://www.firefold.com/064-series-cat6a-shielded-cable
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQL46TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small Rack to hold patch panel and switches (servers would need bigger rack):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
keystone jacks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVAJCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall plate mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQL0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keytone wall plate cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVUPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tools:
Punch down tool:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LAN Cable tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are you sure you can't install the TV somewhere other than above the fireplace? I've seen situations where it is the only option but it's rare and most of the time another solution is possible. Even after all the work and expense to put a TV above the fireplace, it will be a hugely compromised solution. I'd rather have my TV on the floor, in front of a window or block a doorway than above a fireplace.
Do you own your home? You indicate you do but then you said apartment.
more like budget. Those 2 gang LV brackets they used a fucking garbage, and are very easy to rip from the wall, but are silly cheap(a few pennies each if you buy enough). I bought a few of the 1gang versions, and I ended up just throwing them away because they could not hold any weight or pressure. The Low Voltage bracket you see there is something like this and they are giant pieces of shit, and either bend themselves out, or rip out of the wall really easy. I use these for 2 gang, and the same brand and plastic(but 1 gang size) for 1 gang. They work much better than the shit metal ones, but are about twice the price.
Hah, that's cool. I'd be tempted to build a plex box but because I support and install a lot of synology it makes more sense to put one of those in at home.
Talk to your local friends and see if you can find a vaguely trustworthy computer shop. You should be able to rough-in all of the lines and have them terminate and configure if you don't feel up to it.
Just run Cat6, it's great for gigabit, fine for 10gig-e up to ~50m and anyway the vast majority of stuff > 1gbit is on fiber right now. If you think you'll want to run more later just include a string to fish with when you pull your current cable.
Running network is actually pretty easy, you usually punch down on either side of a long run and use patch cables for everything else. Punch blocks have the layout printed right on them so you don't even need to look up a spec.
Parts you need
I like Monoprice for a lot of stuff but not everything.
Tools you need
Split the bundle left side right side. Nice and neat. Leave as long of 'drip loop' as possible. Split each side in to top and bottom breaking off at the rising side of the loop.. Keep cables as straight and neat as possible. Use Velcro strips or ty-wraps to keep it all nice and neat.. use these or https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Industries-Product-RING-3-25/dp/B000LGBV4C/ref=asc_df_B000LGBV4C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167135564802&hvpos=1o14&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4510206953389876609&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003838&hvtargid=aud-801657747996:pla-362690122767&psc=1 or something similar to support to wall. Consider installing a thin piece of plywood (painted) behind the rack for support of brackets mentioned above and any power supplies, ECT.
Did something similar in my basement/server room set up. Good luck
Edit: the long as possible drip loop is in case your set up ever changes. Same with the plywood. If things change your not left with a bunch of holes to patch in the sheet-rock
Yep, you could very easily change them into outlets. You would need:
https://smile.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Wall-Plate-Jack-1-Port/dp/B00HN9KT48/
https://smile.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU
Then you cut a hole in the wall, install the low voltage box, screw one of the cables onto the back of the plate, and install the plate.
>Any idea why there are two cables then?
Possible they had an antenna hooked to one. Maybe two TVs in close proximity. shrug hard saying really. If you connect the cable modem to one of them and it doesn't work try the other.
Is this what I want to put into the hole in the wall to attach the wall plate to?
Sorry, I should've been more clear and used properly terminalogy. I meant a DIN bracket like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C5NDRXZ/?coliid=I1F5NJ0GJR4HS3&colid=N0GNT7K3EX57&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I used one of these sandwiched between the stepper motor and the extruder. I did have to machine one of the bolt slots to match my x carriage bolt spacing though. Works fine on 2 of my machines.
I think i will install this on the inside of the house. Ordering two for each camera.
(Link)[https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00OB21NRM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1]
The plug will come in the house through this and then I'll plug it in to the adjacent outlet.
Get a Sanus VMPL50-B1 mount. It is a fantastic mount and works great with that TV.
Source: I'm probably closing in on mounting 500 TVs now.
Edit: Get a couple of these and fish the wires down the wall (keep the stand as storage and decoration). Then cover them with these!
May or may not help you depending on the trim etc in your home I have tall mop / trim boards on the floor. I removed one cut a small access hole. Then straight up from that I created a hole and used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU?th=1 paired with https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Point-Female-Female-Voltage-Mounting/dp/B01EMKYYFA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=ZXV79125ZGP0YVBZ5BEN&th=1
you simple plug an ethernet cable into the back drop it down into the wall. Then where my small access hole was I cut a notch and drilled a small hole this allowed the ethernet cable to drop through the floor. Secured in the notch the mop board was put back in place. This hid the cables and meant you could not see any of the work that was done. In the room below I did the same thing but with the crown moulding hiding my notch. This allowed me to run the cables inside the wall with minimal effort / damage / repairs with the two ethernet cables running to another wall plate thus I have plug and play access to the router. I ran dual lines however you could run just 1 and attach another network access point (router / switch etc) To add extra ports or to extend wireless range.
The other option is install another router downstairs and use it as a wifi extender / repeater. However since I prefer hardwired connections the above sufficed for my needs.
Absolutely. Drill a hole alongside the phone cable (carefully) and tie a nail to a string to drop it down thru the partition. Once you have the string in hand, tie it to the cable and pull (either down from the attic or up from the room). Cut a hole in the wall below and use a "low voltage" bracket (like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWJGGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to hold the faceplate for the coax connection.
You would be better served to run a ethernet cable from the router (in the office) to your room. If you wanted, you could put a new wifi AP there. BUt still you should have a hard line.
Most people complain about how it cant be done, but if you or your folks own the home, believe me it can be done... do you have a basement, crawlspace or an attic? If the answer to any of those quetions is yes, then that is how you run the wire (in that order of easy-ness).
Get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Low-Voltage-Bracket-Single-Gang/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500570873&sr=8-2&keywords=low+voltage+wall+box
then fish the wire either down to the basement or crawl space (or up to the attic), then run across to your room. Install another one, then fish the line down.
Then get one of these for each
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Point-Products-BT-192-White/dp/B005MPVVMY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1500570949&sr=8-6&keywords=low+voltage+wall+plate+cat5
along with
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Female-Keystone-Coupler-IMBA-C6KC-WT-1PK/dp/B00BJP0LUE/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BJP0LUE&pd_rd_r=BW6284QVMSACA9647P97&pd_rd_w=gs2Vt&pd_rd_wg=Kjepz&psc=1&refRID=BW6284QVMSACA9647P97
use quad shield cat5e or cat6 cable and you will be good to go.
1 of these
https://www.amazon.com/Shark-10-2206-Rockeater-Drywall-Saw/dp/B00004TBPV
You need 2 of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMKYYPK/ref=psdc_11042041_t4_B00111AAZ2?th=1
You use these for any spot you need to cut a hole in the drywall
https://www.amazon.com/Taymac-WW-B-Standard-Metallic-Wallplate/dp/B00JTQZB3W/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522868808&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=single+gang+blank+wallplat
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1522868644&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=retro+drywall+box
Now everything looks nice, remains accessible, and none of the drywall needs to be patched.
Remember to lay down a bit of plastic under the spot you cut the holes to save yourself some drywall cleanup later. Vacuums do NOT like drywall dust. Do not ruin your parents vacuum.
Good luck!
‘brush wall plate’ https://www.amazon.com/GE-through-Speaker-Coaxial-87697/dp/B003YKG8YK ‘mount’ https://www.amazon.com/d/Electrical-Brackets/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/B000UEAJWU
If you can't see any nails inside the box, it's probably something like this. Figure out which side the stud is on, and run a recip saw between the stud an the box. Use a long blade at an angle so you don't have to cut through the drywall. Once it's loose you should be able to work it out of the hole.
To install the new wire, fit a low voltage, old work box in the hole and mount a coax wall plate.
As for getting the new coax in, It's be better to fish it, and you could use the existing coax to pull the new. If, for whatever reason this isn't an option, I'd run conduit through the brick and along the exterior wall using either caulk or mortar to patch the hole around the conduit. It's not at all necessary, but will look way better than bare coax caulked into the hole.
When you drill through the brick, go from the outside in to avoid chipping on the exterior.
Dry wall mount is fine.
That's how most of mine are mounted.
Cmple - Low Voltage Mounting Bracket 1 Gang Multipurpose Drywall Mounting Wall Plate Bracket - Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_os8kDbM48D2BV
RJ45 tester
wall plate mounting bracket
keystone wall plate
keystone f/f jack
CAT6 ends
The setup from your diagram should work.
Edit: the wall plate has various options for the number of jacks.
You can buy one and mix them up however you want. If you are going to be making new holes in the wall for these jacks, keep in mind that you will also need something like below before you can use these plates:
http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420651353&sr=8-2&keywords=old+work+box
In the future buy one of these from Labor Saving Devices and then buy ones of these and this will give you a two gang hole, or here is what your would use for a one gang hole , note this is a 10 pack of them but you can buy in singles just google it.
If you're confused what I mean when I say one gang and two gang holes, just imagine you typical electrical outlet with two plugins, thats one gang and if you had two of those side buy side that is called a two gang.
Now last buy not least buy one of these or one of these if you made a one gang hole...note you can buy these with the nose part going in or coming OUT like the one I linked to.
As my father always told me, the right tools get the job done every time and the small in investment in the tool to cut holes will be something that will make future jobs easier and make a LEVEL hole to the PROPER SIZE every single time.
I know as I have used this took to cut hundreds of holes and I use those low voltage brackets after I make the hole as well as the bull nose plates to route the cables through and no customers ever complain, turns out professional every time.
Good luck!
> CAT 6 "ends" (jacks? plugs?)
In ITU nomenclature, the male end of a cable is a plug, and the female receptacle in the wall is a jack.
> We just purchased a new house and it has 3 runs of CAT 6 cable, but no "ends." I only need 6 ends, where is the best place to order them from?
Slow down. You need to determine what type of cable you have in your house first. 95% it will be solid-core cable. Solid-core can be identified from the cut end as each of the eight wires will be a single copper wire. Solid-core will also be stiffer, and tend to hold a bend.
If you have stranded-core, things change and you do need to spend a bit more on tools.
If you have solid-core (which you should, and is better in this case) you need to terminate to female jacks. Jacks can be found in any home-improvement store, as well as online. Keystone-style jacks are the most convenient especially for new installers. If you're in the US you want something like this.
If you also need to mount these in the wall, you want to ad a low-voltage, old-work box (which are open in the back and usually black or orange) and a keystone face-plate. All of these are available in multi-gang, and multiple ports-per-gang, as well as decora-style if you're nitpicky like me.
For just a few drops, I would look at your local big-box home improvement store first. They will be a little more expensive per-drop, but probably cheaper for the entire project. They will also accept returns when you buy the wrong part and can help you find compatible products.
> Also, are the ends tricky to install or could a person with no experience figure it out pretty easily?
You can do it yourself pretty easily. The jacks should come with instructions and a small plastic tool. If you have trouble, there are dozens of posts in this sub with advice. Also, you probably know someone who can help you out for the cost of a 6-pack. Most IT professionals can do this.
When punching down (connecting the cable to the jack) there will be two different "orders" you can put the individual wires in. It doesn't matter which one you use as long as both ends are the same. However, in the US, order "B" is the most common.
Might want to look into these
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat5e-Punch-Keystone-105376/dp/B003L171FW
http://www.amazon.com/Shaxon-BM303WP6-B-Single-White-Keystone/dp/B006IKHAZY
You're going to need these to mount the wall plates, unless you just use drywall screws
lol
http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-10-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B003JQL0S8
They have packs of 5 or 10 or whatnot
If you're going vertical it's really easy to make 2 holes in the wall and run the cables straight down. Make the holes bug enough to accommodate a low voltage ring like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UEAJWU?cache=ec47d263416dfbe3dc65d464a2658473&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1414071127&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1(these can be had more cheaply at home depot). Put one of these behind your TV and one behind your components. There are a variety of trims which can go on this bracket which you'd be better off getting at an electrical supply to prevent there being a gaping hole in your wall.