Reddit reviews Kester 83-4000-0000 SN60PB40 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031" Wire Diameter

Soldering iron for sure. If you're serious about it then I would get a large one (60-70 watts) and a small one (30 watts), the pencil type are cheap. Or just get one 40 watt.

Get good solder, seriously, you'll fucking hate life with shitty solder. I used to be able to buy it locally but the mom 'n pop store went out of business, and I've tried every solder at Home Depot and they all suck. Both of these are good, however, and you should be able to solder as small of a wire you want with that.

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:


hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7 check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

Soldering iron, $9. Solder, $2.50. Some shrink tubing, $3.50.

This will do for 90% of casual hobby electronics, for a grand total of $15. If you enjoy it, you'll upgrade the iron (and still be able to use solder and heat-shrink).

You need to learn to solder, but it's easy.

I typically use 60 40 0.031 lead solder, which is cheaply available from amazon, including prime. One of these spools will last a very long time for only $30. These tubes are available for smaller quantities.

The main concern with solder is the flux fumes, which are actually worse with higher temperatures and lead free solder. One simple solution to solder fumes is a pc fan with some sort of filter on it, such as this one. I made one for around $4, and it works very well. It also helps to mount it on some sort of arm, such as solid copper wire or one of these. There are many types of fume extractors that would work.

As for the soldering iron, I use a weller wes51, but a hakko fx888 is also good.

Assuming you want a 60%, that's already 59 without shipping just for the MOD-M's. Unfortunately, no matter how you swing it this specific board is not going to be possible for under under $100. Even with the cheapest parts I can think of:

• MOD-M = 59
  
• GH60 Satan PCB = ~40
  
• Aliexpress plastic case = ~15
  
• Aliexpress plate = ~18
  
• Aliexpress stabs = ~5
  
  We're at $137 already even ignoring the underglow.
  
  But, assuming you want to go through with it - here's where to get the goods.
  
  
• MOD-M switches @ originative
  
• GH60 Satan PCB, case, plate, stabs @ aliexpress
  
• Soldering iron - cheapest one I can find is around 20 at Radioshack
  
• Solder - amazon
  
• Ebay should be good for the LED's and the LED strip for underglow
  
  Here's a guide to make the GH60 have underglow
  
  

I find Kester to be a pretty decent solder.

Those little fried chips can be replaced to bring it back to life. I am an R/C hobbyist and have friend some SMD components on boards before.

The problem is finding the SMD part in the first place. Then replacing the burnt part.

>Can I replace it?

Yes.

>would I be able to desolder/solder the repair myself properly?

It is doable but you need the proper tools. I have removed small parts like that with this type of tool

https://youtu.be/kYBxA9zJybE?t=16s

https://youtu.be/gSzfNrbDfIY?t=37s

But those tools are not cheap and you will also need a soldering iron

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-25-Watt-Standard-Duty-Soldering-Iron-Kit-SP25NKUS/204195328

and solder

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Pocket-Pack-Solder-0-031/dp/B00068IJNQ/ref=lp_13837421_1_1/189-2982059-9689447?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453860235&sr=1-1

If you don't have the tools nor the experience, you might as well buy a new bluetooth. Or you could try to repair it as a hobby and get some self achievement gratification if you do manage to fix it. So, technically, it can be repaired.

Look up some tutorials on youtube. A good iron makes a world of difference. I struggled with properly tinning all the irons I've used previously which were just those cheap $8 dollar irons from like walmart. The weller that was in my dad's stuff wasn't much more expensive but they make quality stuff.

The tip tinned very well and everything was fairly smooth. If you don't have a decent stock of soldering supplies I would purchase them before you start.

Here's a quick rundown of what I would recommend:

Simple Weller Soldering Iron

Helping Hands

Desolder Wick

Kester .03" solder

Having the desolder wick saved me a few times when I had some bad flow from the parts not having adequate heat and the solder just clumping on the pin rather than flowing into the connection. You just lay the braid over the solder and press your iron on top and it will soak the solder into the braid and leave your parts clean. You'll probably want something to clean your solder iron tip with. You can buy a Hakko cleaning stand with wire brush for $10 on amazon or you can just wet a scotch brite pad you buy from walmart for a few dollars.

You can use solder you already have if it's a small enough diameter. You want small diameter so that when you touch it to the part (not to the iron) it melts quickly and you dont have to continue to apply heat to the parts. As far as actually handling the solder while you're trying to work I like to cut a small length of solder, maybe 6-8 inches and then wind it in a mini spool around my pinkie finger and leave a length of it sticking out so you have something to hold on to that will give you good control.

How-To Solder Instructable

Once you make the connections look at them, a good connection should typically be shiny and not cloudy. It's likely overkill for this project but those are good practices.

No flux and $8 iron. This was incredibly frustrating to do. The connections are solid but look like total shit. I was afraid of accidentally getting solder touching two pads since this is so tiny. How do you guys do it? The videos make it look so easy. -_-


EDIT: Thanks everyone. I ordered some flux and a new soldering station online, rush ordered so it'll be here tomorrow. My ESCs and motors arrive today and tomorrow too so trying to get everything together so I can maiden this this weekend. I soldered everything on my 450 but the soldering pads were huge in comparison and most of what I did was adding bullet connectors to the pads. I've been flying it for months, no flux on it either.

• Soldering Station: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBQ41NS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Flux: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OC0E5M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Solder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I'll post the re-do afterwards.

Solder wire

Here's a super cheap solder pencil: Link

and some solder

Good quality adjustable irons can be quite a bit more expensive, but this should work for a simple cable swap.

Kester 83-4000-0000 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031" Wire Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJNQ

What copper? Something like this?

The quality of solder is important. Don't skimp out. Example of good solder that would fit your needs.