Reddit reviews KINGPRINT 12864 LCD Graphic Smart Display Controller Board with Adapter and Cable for 3D Printer RAMPS 1.4 RepRap 3D Printer Mendel Prusa Arduino

Seems like something that would be better suited for an Arduino Mega than a raspberry pi. You'd be able to connect a lot more bottles of liquor to it.

I'd have also gone with a cheaper but larger LCD instead of the super tiny OLED. Plus then you get a beeper, and a knob/button combo for selecting the drinks. Combine that with u8g2 and lcdmenulib2 and you've got a more friendly interface.

The MKS Gen L 1.0 is a great Arduino based board. Got one running an i3 clone. Went with an Arduino Ramps 1.4 shield on my mini due to the fact I had that on hand Honestly would have rather gone with something like the Makerbase board instead if only to save on overhead space as mentioned. However, so you know both are the same just wrapped up in a different package.

Edit:

Forgot to add I used this screen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WQQX5K

And this for a place to put it:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2133588

I would post pictures but I have been lazy and have yet to stick things into the base yet. :)

The external reader you linked is for a touchscreen MKS TFT LCD display. Since that LCD has a reader port I suppose it's there to move the SD card connection out of the controller box.

When I did my Einsy upgrade I got this so I wouldn't lose an SD card slot. You'll most likely have to shave the key off of your LCD cable and reverse it, but it does the job.

A RAMPS 1.6* kit would be the cheapest. Best would be something like a Einsy RAMBO* (a board very similar to the one on the Prusa MK3), but that's $120. A good middle of the road solution is the RUMBA+* combined with some stepstick format stepperdrivers. The stock anet uses A4988's*, there's also the option to use DRV8825's* (better resolution, but some people experience resonance related issues) or TMC2130's*. (allows for very silent running) and a screen* (if not included)

In any case, make sure that it has some kind of overcurrent protection. I prefer solutions with blade fuses (also commonly referred to as automotive fuses) It really pays to do some research of your own and to see what you want to get out of a printer. Eventually most A8 frames get converted to other models using the other parts of the kit for the electronics. You should check out the wiki, it contains a couple of good pointers to get you started.

*^(please note that the links provided are meant as illustrations and that I don't necessarily mean to endorse the linked products)

[edit]

As stated before, just toss the melzi and/or anet controller. They're fire hazards. And while you're at it, better improve rather than sidegrade.

Knowing this type of event was probable with the stock Anet board, I pre-emptively replaced mine with a MKS Gen L 1.4

Yea, took a bit of reading 'n effort to get it going, but in one evening she was up and running.

Board and drivers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756T3F57

Display, controler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WQQX5K

So with everything you said. I decided that I shouldn't take a chance by wasting time and money with a pack of 10 rotary encoders if I did in fact damage the PCB. So, I canceled that order and just bought the entire PCB complete with the LCD to eliminate any any chance of failing to fix this problem, and all for just a dollar more. Quite a steal. Going through some reviews, just seems like one of the connectors just have to be reversed because the pin placement is upside down. No bid deal. A lot less risky than soldering and damaging the board