Reddit reviews Klein Tools 1005 Cutting / Crimping Tool for 10-22 AWG Terminals and Connectors, Terminal Crimper for Insulated and Non-Insulated Terminals

Crimp tool

So your looking for something like THESE or THESE

I have both of these crimpers. The T&B's are my current go to's and i gave my Kleins to an apprentice, but they served me well for 15 years and still crimp as good as the day i bought them. The T&B 112(what i use) does insulated and non-insulated crimps and the 111 is non insulated only

Channellock also makes a very similar good quality crimper for a little cheaper.

ETA- Heres the channellocks

I just use klein's stakons.

You can use the cheap plastic covered terminals, but be sure to cut and ripoff the plastic shit first. Makes for an easier crimp and you can actually see the work you just did. I do use them from time to time as they are cheap as dirt. If you need them insulated just use some heatshrink after.

For insulated and non insulated butt connectors:

Klein 1005

And
These will work too (especially for spade and ring terminals), but not for insulated splices. They will also do a range of other automotive specific as well.


There is a molex tool that does insulated splices well too
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For most automotive terminals, especially small ones like for ECU connectors or sensor connections-

hozan p-707
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For deutsch solid terminals

hdt-48-00
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For all crimping, it is best to get someone to teach you how as it's easy to destroy your first crimps by over doing it. Definitely good to practice too. Also very easy to not put enough force into the tool, and your wire will pull out. Also Just as easy to incorrectly size the jaws or dies having the same effect as under or over crimping. The same goes for terminals, many have few wire sizes they are designed for and will only accept.



My recommendation, get the p-707 if you're doing more than 2-5 vehicles of wiring sensors and ECU's. P-706 if you're on a budget and/or need a few more size jaws. Get the Klein 1005 for your butt splices. Between those two tools (Klein and hozan) you can pretty much do 95-99% of the crimps you need for a harness, cars specifically. You might need a few different tools for battery lugs and other big power connections.

I would use butt connectors like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D4Q3LD4/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=29Y5KK6BXQXS0BJPSJW6

You will need a crimp tool like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_16?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1483639979&sr=1-16&keywords=crimp+tool

You can buy a crimp tool at Harbor Freight that will get you by for a lot less money.

I use a Klien multitool and they work perfectly

If I had to buy everything again, I'd get a smaller stripper and a crimping pliers because the multitool is kinda long and awkward crimping under cars.

> SGD155BR

That seems to be a specific tool designed for you marine guys. That's out of my field, I'm not going to google chase for anything like it.

>PWCS7CF

I now see we're playing your game haha. It's a rather wierd breed of stripper.crimpers. Nonetheless, OTC makes a pair like them for $18 on Amazon. Lifetime warranty. They also make a angled version you might be intrested in. SnapOn doesn't list this on their website anymore, but the PWCS7CF sells for ~$60 online. So, The OTC are $42 cheaper.


>TLL72

Craftsman, but still good enough to make money with. SnapOn MSRP is $111. That Gearwrench is $26. $85 in savings by going Gearwrench.

> 137ACF



Easy enough . SnapOn MSRP is $41. The Klein one is $16 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $25


>29ACF

Easy enough. SnapOn MSRP $62. Klein tool is $30 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $32.

Between the 4 tools I compared, the other options saved a total of $184. Same quality as SnapOn? Maybe not on all, but probably yes to some. All of them come with life-time warranty, and not not shit tools and are considered /r/buyitforlife items!

those crimpers work but they are actually for non insulated only and tend to punch through insulation, doesn't look like there is an insulated hole on them. For quick work use my trusty old klein but I also have a ratcheting crimper with a few different die sets, the insulated die is a double crimp and works fantastic. This works almost as well for a lot less $$$(I bought the cheap one when I thought I loaned my palidin then realized it was in another toolbox). I'm usually too lazy to solder stuff under the dash(proof of laziness), but anything outside of the cabin I solder and use glue lined heatshrink to make sure the union is not compromised. When I do use butt splices or crimp caps, I make sure to use the right crimper.

I also consider my test light as a must have, computer AND airbag safe. It make signal chasing much easier using the piercing probe and the headlight is handy. Keep the bandaids handy using it though, I've tested the voltage in my fingers quite a few times.

While the plastic trim tools come in handy, I find something like this very handy when you need a bit more nut behind the prying, although I haven't't used the window crank clip remover in a LONG time lol.

Best connection is to use non-insulated connectors and a proper crimper.

Then protect them with shrink tubing. It's worth having these supplies around because they are so much easier, faster, and more reliable than solder.

Pulling out the speaker yourself might be the easiest way to find out what speakers you have.

If this is something you're interested in you will need:

• 
  A pair of crimpers, I suggest Klein crimpers.
  
  
• Butt connectors. You'll probably need 10-12 gauge (yellow) butt connectors.
  
  You'll need to pull the sub out as far as you can, then snip the wires (leave 5-6" of wire coming off of the subwoofer), check the model number, then use the butt connectors to re-attach the wires.
  
  

Speaker Wire Colors:

Front Left: +/- Tan/Grey

Front Right: +/- Light Green/Dark Green

Rear Left: +/- Brown/Yellow

Rear Right: +/- Dark Blue/Light Blue

Use this to reroute the wires from the amp, then back to the head unit. The speaker wires will be in a twisted pair on the output side of the amp, Easiest way is to test the wires by tapping the positive and negative wires on a 9Volt battery to see if you get a response. If you get a response, you have the right wires. (ask if you are unsure of how to do this.
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGW9920-Conductor-Speedwire-Black/dp/B002ODEZ1G

Use this to connect the wires the easiest way:
http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CC2218-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B005HQ4T6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138077&sr=8-1&keywords=crimp+caps

Using this tool:(or something similar)
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138134&sr=8-24&keywords=crimp+tool

I have all the crimping tools mentioned here and more. I am not kidding, it is my life. General purpose overall I prefer the Klein 1005 as mentioned by u/myself248 BUT I own the Chanel Lock 909 version. They are damn near the same tool but Klein charges a premium price. Channel lock is made in the USA!

The ratcheting ones are actually the worst, UNLESS you're using exactly the thickness of terminals that the die is made for. If everything's a match, then crimping to the calibrated dimension also gets you the required pressure. That's almost never the case for hobbyist work using random terminals, so instead you get a crimp to a specific dimension, but totally arbitrary pressure. These gave the worst results in my testing.

Any of the others you linked are fine. Personally I've had exceptional luck with this very compact style, which you can find under a number of names. The toothed nest is for uninsulated terminals (position the tooth opposite the seam), and the () nest is for insulated.

There's another common style, of which the Klein 1005 is a representative sample. These are heavier-duty, but also much heavier, and I've relegated all mine to the back of the drawer.

Whatever you decide on, spend a few minutes and a few terminals doing some practicing and testing with a luggage scale or fish scale or whatever. Write down each technique you try and the pull-force it holds. After a half dozen tests, you'll already have learned more than most of your peers know from years of guesswork.

On god. Yeah that's for savages. Klein makes an really good crimper . Nothing fancy, but very well made, hardened tool steel, and covers pretty much all automotive wire gauges. Also need to use good crimp connectors like these . They come with a high heat, heat shrink you can just use a regular lighter to shrink down

These are the ones that I carry Crimping and Cutting Tool for Insulated and Non-Insulated Terminals, 9-3/4-Inch Klein Tools 1005 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KGCqDbYFPH4W0

Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/

You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/

Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.

Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.

use this for the crimp on connectors

Ratcheting crimpers technically work better, but I don't like them for the red/blue/yellow multi gauge connectors, as they crimp to a specific size, and if your wire gauge doesn't match that size, you get a bad crimp.

The Klein tool I linked above lets you get a solid crimp regardless of your wire gauge, and has a long handle to give you good mechanical advantage so you don't have to squeeze the crap out of the tool to get that good crimp. In fact, it is easily possible to over crimp, so watch out for that.

If you don't own them already, pick up a set of crimpers like these which do a very nice job of fully crimping things like ring terminals.

When you get the terminals, either get the heat-shrink variety, or the bare (non-insulated) and some appropriate heat shrink tubing. It's not necessary to do this, but it dresses the installation up nicely and makes it look like you care about the details.