Reddit reviews OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool
We found 18 Reddit comments about OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Top-notch Quality. The solder sucker has an aluminum bronze frame and a high pressure vacuum which can remove solder from a printed circuit board effectively.Solder Wick Braid. The desoldering wick is 2.5mm wide and 1.5m in length. Weight: 0.4oz. With low residue design, this solder braid will help clean spare solder on the pin away to avoid short circuit, especially in small, hard to reach areas.Pure oxygen free copper wire, no clean flux for easy to use. The solder wick can help clean some residue flux and BGA thermal bonding pad too.Compact and Lightweight. Measuring 7.48''X0.79'', the desoldering pump can be used with only one hand, either your right or left hand.Solid Construction. The solder sucker has plastic backing to ensure stability.
Its a solder sucker, used to de-solder components. You press the plunger down, then heat the solder then press the button on the sucker with the nozzle next to the solder and gone. Here is a link
I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.
I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.
This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.
As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.
Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.
There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.
Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.
Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity
Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!
It's hard to tell because you used way too much solder, but it looks like you may have cold joints. Thick solder makes it easier to use too much, if your solder is wider than 1mm look into something narrower, I like 0.6mm. (60/40 rosin core preferably.) As for the joint, what you want to be doing is heating both pieces with your iron and then letting the solder melt onto the joint; that's a hot joint. If you just melt the solder onto the joint with your iron, that's a cold joint and you don't want it; they're much more brittle. You can put a dab of solder on the iron tip to help heat transfer (the faster you heat the pieces, the faster you can solder the joint and stop dumping heat into the components) but that solder is not for making the joint.
If you need to go back and fix those joints, invest in a solder sucker to remove it. (Or if you don't mind spending the six bucks, do it anyway, because that extra solder didn't help and can only hurt.)
There's a good series of EEVBlog videos on soldering if you want a more in-depth look at removing the "noob" part from "noob soldering job," Dave does a good job of explaining.
Lastly, if your iron looks like this, consider upgrading to a variable temperature iron like a TS100 (great for field repairs if you make an XT60 adapter for it) or this cheap Stahl, they're both worth the money. (The TS100 is the better of the two, and will work well enough for most small jobs to be your primary iron.) Those cheap pencil irons are pretty worthless, though they'll certainly work if that's all you've got.
I highly recommend using one of these to remove components: https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519764865&sr=8-5&keywords=solder+remover it will make the job much cleaner, I wish I had brought one of these years ago.
Just a heads up, the REV-C to GND jumper wire won't fix all of the issues only seen on the 40-pin models.
Search eBay for a "40 pin type b" cable. It's a revision that fixed quite a few problems ... and one that you haven't seen yet, awful pixel retention / ghosting.
If you go with the "type b" cable, you won't need the jumper connection pictured.
Now, onto your question ...
There's an issue with the way the jumper cable was prepared. The solder point on the REV-C looks like it's touching several pads, not just the intended. To fix what's pictured ...
Again, all of this is done to fix what I'm seeing in the picture, but this won't fix the next problem, ghosting and pixel retention.
Grab a "type b" cable.
Also, I learned how to solder from watching endless YouTube videos. Here's a good one from Ben Heck.
Uf, that's quite the problem you've got there. For future reference, clean the contact pins on the cart with isopropyl alcohol or electrical contact cleaner. It's the most common cause for "jumbled Nintendo logo."
As for the solder, you'll need a solder sucker and desolder braid to remove that. Reflowing a chip is definitely not something I'd recommend to someone who hasn't soldered much before. It's not going to be easy, but it shouldn't be too difficult either. Avoid using the cart until you fix it, though. You might just damage the cart further.
Edit: Details.
A solder sucker and solder wick are definitely necessary for fixing mistakes. I use one like this.
Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.
Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.
Don’t forget, you need one with a tip the size of a pen. Any bigger and you will burn your pcb. This is a decent one that I use
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Weller ST7 ST Series Conical Solder Tip Hobbyist for WP25, WP30 and WP35 Irons, 0.31" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSP4K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I14V4X8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Sometimes for the smaller welds, like on LEDs, try adding solder before sucking.
> Can you point me in the direction of a guide to fix it? Thanks for the response, also.
r/AskElectronics can help you find the problem and fix it. You will need a soldering iron and related accessories. This is what I got for myself to fix my mouse:
You will save money in the long run by fixing your stuff. Use your rights or lose them. Right to repair was first lost when consumers started tolerating proprietary batteries. Then proprietary non-replaceable batteries (NRB's). Then disposable devices. Then pre-paid charging. Then pay per charge. It keeps getting worse. The only way to stop it is to go back to the beginning and eliminate the proprietary NRB's. Before you can regain the right to repair, you first need to regain the right to open your device and put in new batteries.
There are 2 subreddits committed to ending the reign of proprietary NRB's:
Another notable subreddit with right to repair content:
You can learn more about this issue here:
> research found repair was "helping people overcome the negative logic that accompanies the abandonment of things and people" [...] relationships between people and material things tend to be reciprocal.
A few other subreddits to help you or inspire you to fix your stuff:
Not a kit, but I can throw you a couple links to what I use. These work great for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S5Z1R2/
It's under $10, but I've built two numpads and two TKL boards (handwired) with it. Still running fine with no damage to the tip.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCKKBVE/
It's good to have one of these. If your solder isn't taking easily, this can help out a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I14V4X8
I only got this because I needed to desolder a full PCB from a case. Might be useful if you mess up and need to remove solder from somewhere.
Not really sure on this one. My dad had an extra spool that I borrowed from him. I've heard that lead-free solder can be a pain to work with so keep this in mind!
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The guide I linked for this keyboard seems to imply that diodes are necessary... or are those already installed and not needed for a switch swap? If that's the case, this is even easier. Is the soldering pump like this? https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526757800&sr=8-4&keywords=desoldering+pump
And yes, I looked inside the housing and the copper leaf (?) is mangled.
Remove the plastic piece if you can get it off, or snip the pins close to the plastic. Remove the pins 1 by 1, then use a solder sucker and wick to get as much off as you can.
Try one of these. Then resolder.
Have you ever soldered before? It might be best to practice on another PCB. You'll need a desoldering tool like this:https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=pd_day0_hl_469_3/134-2481876-5881468?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01I14V4X8&pd_rd_r=40385555-6693-11e9-bbed-57e65051719f&pd_rd_w=OpK6z&pd_rd_wg=NE4R0&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=5VBDX2Q70628W5B650NK&psc=1&refRID=5VBDX2Q70628W5B650NKIf anyone can recommend a better one please do -- this will get the job done, but could be easier
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I would practice on another PCB first (anything can work, maybe an old remote you're not using -- I learned to solder on an old PS2 modding in a chip years ago -- high bar of entry working on smd pcb components). But this was my first time desoldering correctly. With the tool above it took a while and was a bit frustrating because the tool wasn't perfect. From my understanding, you're supposed to head up the solder on the pcb until you see it liquify (time depends on your soldering iron -- mine is a 15W or 30W switch, at 30W it took about 4-5 seconds), then you're supposed to put the tool directly over the melted solder and release and it should suck it all up. It sucks up what it can that's melted -- a better desoldering tool could get it all in one go. Mine didn't work that well, so I'd have to use it on an angle for a few actuations. Eventually, you'll see that the PCB hole is solder free or the legs are free enough to remove the switch.
For the really stubborn components, I'd end up having to use my switch puller and heat the switch legs a bit while pulling lightly -- not recommended: doing something like this can pull off the traces. Overall, first go took about an hour an a half just to desolder, mostly because of the meh-quality of my desoldering tool. Do not attempt this with just braid, you'll hate yourself.
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The Mill Max sockets work very well. When installing if you have a switch that is solder free on its legs, you can put the sockets on the switch place it on the board and solder the sockets in -- make sure you don't make the mistake I did with switches with solder on them, then heating sockets and melting the solder inside. I was able to save my mistake with the solder sucker, but it cost me a switch or two -- I bought spare MX Clears on novelkeyz.xyz ahead of time. Alternatively, you can use a toothpick to hold the inserted socket, then solder from the other side -- takes a bit of dexterity to get it right. Make sure to use only a little solder because you do not want to get any into the socket.
I have no complaints about the Mill Max sockets, they get the job done perfectly. The one thing you may want to be careful of is there are certain keys where the PCB mount hole is only half there, you can either be very careful when you solder in the socket, or just regularly solder it in, I think there are two or three of them, the default fn button is one of them I believe.
tldr:
Get a desoldering tool, do not use braid. A high-quality desoldering tool will make your life MUCH easier. Mill Max sockets can be installed using a clean switch or a toothpick. Long Live the hot-swappable Race 3.
Nice! Please let me know what how it goes!
There are a number of ways to desolder, and the better ways increase in price and can hit up your pockets really hard. I personally use a desoldering braid for these small time projects, but you could always use a desoldering pump as well:
https://www.amazon.com/OMorc-Desoldering-Solder-Sucker-Length/dp/B01I14V4X8/ref=zg_bs_8107034011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0SCH7RKJR6YGQEBFH5HT
You'll want to use your soldering iron to heat up the area that you want to desolder in one hand and then use the pump to suck up the solder in the other. The pump is spring loaded -- you push it down and it will click into place until you need to have it suck up the solder. You'll get it with some practice! :D
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Alternatively I find desoldering braid personally easy:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8UPQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This particular braid is very high quality and works even without any flux (though flux helps alot and I recommend it). You can simply use the braid, place it over the area and heat it up with the iron to wick up the solder. If you have some sort of flux, you can flux the tip for easier wicking.
There are also desoldering bulb suckers that heat up, allowing you to depress and suck up the solder, but results may very and the tips on those are usually poor if you are paying +/- 20$.
I'd recommend one of those pumps!
I can dig it! I originally had this one but it was crap. It looks like yours is similar. Before you buy the big desolder station (which granted, would be much better and great for future) I'd do the cheap price on a higher volume pump. Like I said, it made all the difference for me. =)