Reddit reviews Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white

Yeah, though the Facebook post someone made that has a lot of other things you can do as well. Let me see if I can paste it here.

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My printer tune up and alignment process and needed upgrades.

This is a work in process, but since I have created the first alignment post, it will be a place holder to point to my alignment posts as I create them, or pointers to good posts by others or the Wiki. This post is just an index and will get edited often. Some pointers will just be placeholder to comments I have made until I write up a good top level post. For others, I may place short instructions inline until I can make a better post.
Feel free to add comments about the index or the ordering.

I know there is a lot of stuff here, but I had to do something in all these areas to get my printer up to snuff. I am still doing a few tweaks. It is running pretty awesome right now after doing something in each of these areas.

At this point, each item has some pointer or short instructions associated with it.
.
.
.
✅A) Essential new printer hardware/Settings improvements (any order):

1️⃣Update the step/mm for the 3 axis. The steps/mm for the 3 axis are currently set wrong in the factory defaults. Once fix this, your optimal Z layer heights will be in multiples of 0.0175mm with 0.28, 0.21, 0.14, 0.07mm being the best.
Do this:
M92 X57.14 Y57.14 Z57.14
M500

https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/extruder_calibration…
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2049358935079582/

2️⃣Replace 3 bottom feet with taller, noise dampening ones. Can be done out of order, if you need to order them online. The point is to get better airflow to the electronics so they do not overheat.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2029969193685223/

️3️⃣Replace the print surface with a more durable PEI surface (some prefer other surface treatments). Best to do this now before the final alignments, since the factory bed gets destroyed pretty quickly. I recommend a 0.5mm PEI sheet because it is tough and hard to destroy, but the surface is soft enough not to beat up the nozzle tip if you crash into it (like every time it self levels). It also sticks well at moderate temps, but releases well when cold with many filament types. If you proceed with alignments first, then recheck them after you replace the bed surface.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2003734886308654/

️4️⃣Attach printer power supply to a power switch of some sort. Do not plug and unplug the 12VDC power directly at the printer with the power on except in an emergency. Otherwise the connector will degrade over time and may become intermittent.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2056149511067191/

️5️⃣Get a second (or third) microSD card. The one included has not been reliable for many users (though mine has been fine). You will need a good card for printing from card or upgrading the FW. Many higher capacity cards do not work in this printer. The card that has worked perfectly for me is the one recommended on the Wiki.

https://www.mpminidelta.com/parts/microsd_card

️6️⃣Tune up the PID values for the hot end. This would have to be redone if replacing parts on the hot end.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2042879919060817/
.
.
.
✅B) Printer settings for your slicer (do before printing anything other than the cat)

1️⃣Set up printer hardware settings in slicer.

2️⃣Make a startup gcode sequence for the slicer.
Use G29 P2 for small parts and G29 P4 for large ones.

https://www.mpminidelta.com/starting_ending_g-code_scripts
.
.
.
✅C) Essential first time tune up process (Done in order):

1️⃣Set the belt tensions.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2057956777553131/

2️⃣Print out bed hold down supports. The rest of the bed alignments will not be stable without these support clips. These parts don't actually touch the hot bed, so they can be made from any stable filament material. They could even be fabricated.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2030427000306109/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/2054733421208800/
https://www.mpminidelta.com/…/bed_clips_-_remove_and_replace

3️⃣Shim bottom of bed directly where the bed switches are located with HVAC aluminum tape (0, 1, 2, or 3 layers thick as needed) to just touch the supports as needed. You should not be able to slip a piece of paper between the hold down clip and bed, but when you rotate the clip away from the bed and back again, it should not push down on the bed in the slightest. This is a finicky operation, but critical to do before you proceed to the rest of the alignments. This will create a consistent distance from the top of the bed to where the switch activates, and keep the bed from rocking up when probing at the point opposite each tower.

4️⃣Find the correct delta radius using G29 P2 and update it with M665 Rxx.x.

I had to change the Delta radius by quite a bit to this to get a more linear flatness. Start with this number:
M665 R63.20

That number will not be consistent across different machines, follow this process to zero it in:
Use a USB interface to a manual controller (so you can see the printouts of the G29 command). Do the following:

G28
G29 P2 V4
Take the average of the first 6 numbers (double tap on each tower). Compare that average to the center double tap number. If it is a match, then you are done. If not, adjust the delta radius by 0.1 or 0.01 depending on how close the numbers match with:
M665 R63.xx
Then try again from the G28.

When you have found the closest match to save the value:
M500

Check out this comment thread below for more discussion and details about this and the next step and a spreadsheet to download to help speed up the calculations:

https://www.facebook.com/…/mpm…/permalink/2058169440865198/…

5️⃣Equalize the home switches using G29 P1 and update it with M666.
Use a USB interface to a manual controller (so you can see the printouts of the G29 command). Do the following:

G28
G29 V4

Compare that average double tap number to the others. If they are not even close, you may have to adjust the physical stops to get them into the ballpark.

If it is a close match, then you are done. If not, adjust the home stop offsets:
M666 X Y or Z offset. The smallest axis of these will always be set to 0 offset and the other are adjusted to match.
Then try again from the G28.

When you have found the closest match to save the value:
M500

Once you are done here go back and check the Delta radius alignment to make sure it did not shift its value. Recalibrate if needed and do this one again also.

Spreadsheet xlsx to help with the calculations:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/2064274083588067/

6️⃣Print out 3 lower side shields to keep trash out of belts.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2622002
.
.
.
✅D) First time and periodic tune up (any order).

1️⃣Adjust the extruder steps/mm. You may need to adjust this number for each new roll of filament. If you change filaments back and forth, label each roll with the steps/mm number so it can be reset each time you use it.

https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/extruder_calibration…

2️⃣Oil all rails and universal ball joints. I use Super Lube Multi Purpose Synthetic Oil with PTFE. I have the pen oiler version that I refill with the 4 oz size.
I put a drop on each rail above each linear bearing when the hot end is near the build plate. I also put a drop on each of the 12 ball joints on the ends of the 6 arms.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK
.
.
.
✅E) Optional things that require opening up the printer:

1️⃣Add cardboard to block fan cooling the heat bed.

https://www.facebook.com/…/mpm…/permalink/2057274527621356/…

Or possibly print this which can be installed from the top:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783589

2️⃣Slow down lower cooling fan speed to reduce noise.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/1992618474086962/

3️⃣Move the connectors to make the Y axis face the front. If you do this, you need to redo the calibrations, because the firmware settings and hardware configuration no longer match. Do it first if you want it (highly recommended). However, if a future MP firmware upgrade fixes this, it will have to be undone in the hardware.

https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/face_forward
.
.
.
✅F) Make sure to refer to the Wiki for additional advice:

https://www.mpminidelta.com/start

Sure, no prob, hopefully I can paste this properly:

<br />
My printer tune up and alignment process and needed upgrades.<br />
<br />
This is a work in process, but since I have created the first alignment post, it will be a place holder to point to my alignment posts as I create them, or pointers to good posts by others or the Wiki. This post is just an index and will get edited often. Some pointers will just be placeholder to comments I have made until I write up a good top level post. For others, I may place short instructions inline until I can make a better post.<br />
Feel free to add comments about the index or the ordering.<br />
<br />
I know there is a lot of stuff here, but I had to do something in all these areas to get my printer up to snuff. I am still doing a few tweaks. It is running pretty awesome right now after doing something in each of these areas.<br />
<br />
At this point, each item has some pointer or short instructions associated with it.<br />
.<br />
.<br />
.<br />
✅A) Essential new printer hardware/Settings improvements (any order):<br />
<br />
1️⃣Update the step/mm for the 3 axis. The steps/mm for the 3 axis are currently set wrong in the factory defaults. Once fix this, your optimal Z layer heights will be in multiples of 0.0175mm with 0.28, 0.21, 0.14, 0.07mm being the best.<br />
Do this:<br />
M92 X57.14 Y57.14 Z57.14<br />
M500<br />
<br />
https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/extruder_calibration…<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2049358935079582/<br />
<br />
2️⃣Replace 3 bottom feet with taller, noise dampening ones. Can be done out of order, if you need to order them online. The point is to get better airflow to the electronics so they do not overheat.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2029969193685223/<br />
<br />
️3️⃣Replace the print surface with a more durable PEI surface (some prefer other surface treatments). Best to do this now before the final alignments, since the factory bed gets destroyed pretty quickly. I recommend a 0.5mm PEI sheet because it is tough and hard to destroy, but the surface is soft enough not to beat up the nozzle tip if you crash into it (like every time it self levels). It also sticks well at moderate temps, but releases well when cold with many filament types. If you proceed with alignments first, then recheck them after you replace the bed surface.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2003734886308654/<br />
<br />
️4️⃣Attach printer power supply to a power switch of some sort. Do not plug and unplug the 12VDC power directly at the printer with the power on except in an emergency. Otherwise the connector will degrade over time and may become intermittent.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2056149511067191/<br />
<br />
️5️⃣Get a second (or third) microSD card. The one included has not been reliable for many users (though mine has been fine). You will need a good card for printing from card or upgrading the FW. Many higher capacity cards do not work in this printer. The card that has worked perfectly for me is the one recommended on the Wiki.<br />
<br />
https://www.mpminidelta.com/parts/microsd_card<br />
<br />
️6️⃣Tune up the PID values for the hot end. This would have to be redone if replacing parts on the hot end.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2042879919060817/<br />
.<br />
.<br />
.<br />
✅B) Printer settings for your slicer (do before printing anything other than the cat)<br />
<br />
1️⃣Set up printer hardware settings in slicer.<br />
<br />
Cura 3.2 is now available and a setup file has been posted. Might as well get the latest versions rather than the old version that is included on the SD.<br />
<br />
Cura 3.2 announcement:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2060553030626839/<br />
<br />
Cura 3.2 Setup files for mini delta:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/2066479180034224/<br />
<br />
2️⃣Make custom startup gcode sequence for the slicer.<br />
Use G29 P2 for small parts and G29 P4 for large ones.<br />
<br />
https://www.mpminidelta.com/starting_ending_g-code_scripts<br />
.<br />
.<br />
.<br />
✅C) Essential first time tune up process (Done in order):<br />
<br />
1️⃣Set the belt tensions.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2057956777553131/<br />
<br />
2️⃣Print out bed hold down supports. The rest of the bed alignments will not be stable without these support clips. These parts don't actually touch the hot bed, so they can be made from any stable filament material. They could even be fabricated.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2030427000306109/<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/2054733421208800/<br />
https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/bed_clips_-_remove_and_replace<br />
<br />
3️⃣Shim bottom of bed directly where the bed switches are located with HVAC aluminum tape (0, 1, 2, or 3 layers thick as needed) to just touch the supports as needed. You should not be able to slip a piece of paper between the hold down clip and bed, but when you rotate the clip away from the bed and back again, it should not push down on the bed in the slightest. This is a finicky operation, but critical to do before you proceed to the rest of the alignments. This will create a consistent distance from the top of the bed to where the switch activates, and keep the bed from rocking up when probing at the point opposite each tower.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1550453658401038&amp;amp;set=p.1550453658401038&amp;amp;type=3&amp;amp;ifg=1<br />
<br />
4️⃣Find the correct delta radius using G29 P2 and update it with M665 Rxx.x.<br />
<br />
I had to change the Delta radius by quite a bit to this to get a more linear flatness. Start with this number:<br />
M665 R63.20<br />
<br />
That number will not be consistent across different machines, follow this process to zero it in:<br />
Use a USB interface to a manual controller (so you can see the printouts of the G29 command). Do the following:<br />
<br />
G28<br />
G29 P2 V4<br />
Take the average of the first 6 numbers (double tap on each tower). Compare that average to the center double tap number. If it is a match, then you are done. If not, adjust the delta radius by 0.1 or 0.01 depending on how close the numbers match with:<br />
M665 R63.xx<br />
Then try again from the G28.<br />
<br />
When you have found the closest match to save the value:<br />
M500<br />
CAUTION: There is a FW bug that does not use the saved value after a power cycle. This M665 R value will have to be updated after every power cycle. Here is the writeup of the FW bug:<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2058169440865198/?comment_id=2071582009523941&amp;amp;comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R%22%7D<br />
<br />
Check out this comment thread below for more discussion and details about this and the next step and a spreadsheet to download to help speed up the calculations:<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2058169440865198/?comment_id=2062726973742778&amp;amp;comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R1%22%7D<br />
<br />
5️⃣Equalize the home switches using G29 P1 and update it with M666.<br />
Use a USB interface to a manual controller (so you can see the printouts of the G29 command). Do the following:<br />
<br />
G28<br />
G29 V4<br />
<br />
Compare that average double tap number to the others. If they are not even close, you may have to adjust the physical stops to get them into the ballpark.<br />
<br />
If it is a close match, then you are done. If not, adjust the home stop offsets:<br />
M666 X Y or Z offset. The smallest axis of these will always be set to 0 offset and the other are adjusted to match.<br />
Then try again from the G28.<br />
<br />
When you have found the closest match, save the value:<br />
M500<br />
<br />
CAUTION: The delta radius value is not being restored after a power cycle. The value is saved in EEPROM, but is being ignored by the FW unless the M665 Rxx.xx command is input again after the power up. Here is the detailed writeup:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2058169440865198/?comment_id=2071582009523941&amp;amp;comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R%22%7D<br />
<br />
Once you are done here go back and check the Delta radius alignment to make sure it did not shift its value. Recalibrate if needed and do this one again also.<br />
<br />
Spreadsheet xlsx to help with the calculations:<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/2064274083588067/<br />
<br />
6️⃣Print out 3 lower side shields to keep trash out of belts.<br />
<br />
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2622002<br />
.<br />
.<br />
.<br />
✅D) First time and periodic tune up (any order).<br />
<br />
1️⃣Adjust the extruder steps/mm. You may need to adjust this number for each new roll of filament. If you change filaments back and forth, label each roll with the steps/mm number so it can be reset each time you use it.<br />
<br />
https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/extruder_calibration?s[]=m92<br />
<br />
2️⃣Oil all rails and universal ball joints. I use Super Lube Multi Purpose Synthetic Oil with PTFE. I have the pen oiler version that I refill with the 4 oz size.<br />
I put a drop on each rail above each linear bearing when the hot end is near the build plate. I also put a drop on each of the 12 ball joints on the ends of the 6 arms.<br />
<br />
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK<br />
.<br />
.<br />
.<br />
✅E) Optional things that require opening up the printer:<br />
<br />
1️⃣Add cardboard to block fan cooling the heat bed.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/2057274527621356/?comment_id=2057290340953108&amp;amp;comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R%22%7D<br />
<br />
Or possibly print this which can be installed from the top:<br />
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783589<br />
<br />
2️⃣Slow down lower cooling fan speed to reduce noise.<br />
<br />
https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/permalink/1992618474086962/<br />
<br />
3️⃣Move the connectors to make the Y axis face the front. If you do this, you need to redo the calibrations, because the firmware settings and hardware configuration no longer match. Do it first if you want it (highly recommended). However, if a future MP firmware upgrade fixes this, it will have to be undone in the hardware.<br />
<br />
https://www.mpminidelta.com/howto/face_forward<br />
.<br />
.<br />
.<br />
✅F) Make sure to refer to the Wiki for additional advice:<br />
<br />
https://www.mpminidelta.com/start

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ plus https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/

Mix it to a desireable thickness.

I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI on leadscrews and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK on linear rods.

I got this 24v fan off of amazon(don’t get it):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B887B6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pILWzb45X8MRX

But the depth of the screw mount holes wasn’t deep enough to allow the screws to fully get into the extruder stepper motor. Tried drilling it out but ended up cracking the plastic. Went back to the stock noisy fan.

But then I tried lubricating the fan by peeling the sticker back and putting a drop of Super Lube in it and its whisper quiet now. Used to make a ton of noise for a good minute or two until the bearing warmed up. It even made my CiiiCooler 24v blower fan quieter. Also going to use it for the rails and also my paper shredder. It’s a good cheap safe lubricant, don’t use WD-40.


Here’s the Super Lube (with PTFE in it):
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FPLWzbXJGK299

EDIT: because the Plus is 24v the options are pretty limited on fans, Noctura doesn’t make a 24v fan (at least AFAIK). I did try another 24v fan I got off of eBay but it wasn’t any better.

I wiped as much old lube off as I could and replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK

and the noise has gone away completely. I think maybe the oil that it ships with is just inferior.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/

Super Lube Grease and Oil

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

• DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  
• Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  
• Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  
• Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.

I use synthetic oil with PTFE. Specifically Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just a few drops on the bearings. Don't use grease. Grease on ball bearings will start to collect grime and will require you clean them over time. An oil wont accumulate into a grimy mess, and will even act as a cleaner.

Would look into that! Thanks. What kind of super lube? I have this Super Lube 51004

Would that work?

I was using Krytox GPL205 for stabs and a 60/40 mix of 205 and Super Lube High-Viscosity. You can use the Super Lube version of Krytox Grease for a much cheaper (and likely similar) option. I just happened to have some Krytox.

This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UKUHXK&pd_rd_r=5Y07V739V60PRX14A8AX&pd_rd_w=kdCtL&pd_rd_wg=q1Fcg&psc=1&refRID=5Y07V739V60PRX14A8AX&dpID=315nPAxUPML&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Any high-viscosity PTFE based oil (NOT GREASE, which may bind and cause the rollers to fail) should be fine for both linear bearings and radial bearings. Super Lube 51004, Lubit-8, probably 3-in-One, etc. Some people even recommend oils such as WD-40 or regular machine oil - but I would stray from these as they are not specifically designed for this application and may have unintended side effects (such as possibly being able to dissolve or otherwise deform some plastics).

It's mostly unnecessary, though - these bearings are intentionally sealed and in most cases shouldn't need servicing for several years. My house is particularly dusty so I do lubricate them every few hundred print hours (thanks to pets + forced gas heating with a terrible filter system). I do this by dropping a few drops on the rod, wiping it along the rod with a paper tower, then dropping a drop right by each side of each bearing and sliding the bearing completely over that spot several times. I do this by manually (gently) moving the axes with the Mk3 powered down, save for the Z axis which should not be moved manually, and which I move using the "two-second-hold" hotkey on the LCD's Knob. If the LCD flickers on you're moving the axes too fast :P.

For the PTFE oil would this work?

Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WRiODb91FT492

To balance I’m using a sticker consistency for resistance. I will attempt to raise the bed closer

Appreciate the detailed feedback

This lube, OIL not grease, 4 ounces which should be enough to last a lifetime. ;)

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK

The lead screw is brand new so I'm sure it's not dirty. I managed to get it to print without major z issues by putting the z stepper into spread cycle mode which can power through the binding but I still have some weird horizontal noise in the print like several layers combining or something.

​

I've been using Super Lube with PTFE (This stuff to be precise). My gantry will drop on its own until it gets about halfway through so I think I may be almost there.

I'm no expert, but they sound fine to me. I don't know about that lube though, someone recomended Super Lube to me and it's awesome stuff. Mine quieted down a lot after a few hours of running after I applied that lube.

I've seen a lot of people say that linear bearings don't need lube, I think they are crazy.

Also, I was told not to spin them, they are made to go linearly, not circularly.

I don't have a pic but I use a Ziploc bag and drop the springs in and squeeze a few drops of this https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=superlube+oil&qid=1562863799&s=gateway&sr=8-1 in. Then close and shake for like a minute

Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.

Grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524756523&sr=1-3

Oil: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524756288&sr=8-2

Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.