Best air bag scan tools according to redditors

No problem, actually to give my personal anecdote some real detail.

$35 scanner that can read live data

$155 Scanner that can read SRS and ABS

Glad to help.

Also, if your check engine light comes on, Pepboys or AutoZone (or some other commercial parts store) will let you borrow their code reader (aka OBD II) which will help you figure out what the problem is. Alternatively you could buy yourself a code reader from Amazon.

This way, if you are uncomfortable fixing it yourself, you can at least get a rough estimation of what the parts actually cost to replace.

Every car has there own drive cycle procedures but they all require roughly the same things. For his car yes, one of the steps was to go from 0mph to 55mph within 15 sec and maintain that speed for about 15 minutes then bring the car to a stop without using the brakes. There are a few other steps that you need to do to set all the monitors but they are usually met during normal operating conditions.

You can use an OBDII scanner to check yourself if they are set.

This is the code reader I bought my little brother. While it's no where near as nice as mine but it works and gets you the most basic information you could ever need on a day to day basic maintenance.

Code readers are super cheap and easy to use. I got this guy for $35 and it works perfectly. I had a faulty ECM that kept throwing engine codes. There's tons of other options too if you want more functionality, like on an Access Port.

Known as a "check engine light" or CEL as abbreviation. Depending on car you can buy a scanner to read (most likely obdii): Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i3bOAbDN13N20

But most likely you will read the code and not know what to do afterwards without diligently searching on forums so you might want to just bring the car into a shop that does free code reads.

Fyi sometimes its comes on because you didnt tighten the gas cap. If you are lucky thats the only reason.

Anytime you clear the codes on your car it takes time for the system to reset itself and calibrate to show that it even exists. The best way to find out is to get a cheap code reader on Amazon and find out what it is you're failing. For me I got a new Cat on my car and it failed. I drove it 50 miles at 70mph and the next day it passed fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5EA74I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one that I use, be sure to NOT clear your codes, just make sure you're checking the I/M readiness.

There's no reason to freak out about it, just figure out if there's a bad sensor or something and get it fixed.

This: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-Automotive-Diagnostic-Analysis-System/dp/B008XN7NUG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393787314&sr=8-2&keywords=maxisys+pro

or this: http://www.amazon.com/MaxiSYS-ProDiagnostic-System-MS908P-reprogramming/dp/B00H3915G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393787314&sr=8-1&keywords=maxisys+pro

I bought the cheap one and it works fine. Gives me the data I need and can obviously clear codes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5EA74I

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G5EA74I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499231274&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=obd2&dpPl=1&dpID=41vF137GMsL&ref=plSrch
Would this stuff be ok?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5EA74I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have that. But it says no stored codes.

Car Repair PSA- For everyone here that is a car repair novice, get a diagnostic code reader. You can get one for $50.00. You plug it into your car, follow the instructions, write down the codes that appear, look them up in the including manual, and you know where to start. Even if you can't repair it yourself, give the mechanic the codes you found and they'll think twice before scamming you because you already know the possible problems.

My truck started running rough last year. Engine light came on. Checked the codes, googled a little, replaced the gas cap for $13.00 and the problem was solved. The gas cap wasn't air tight anymore and was letting air in and was screwing up the air to fuel mix and making it run rough. A mechanic could have told me almost anything and I would have just paid him to fix it.

https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enhanced-Universal-Diagnostic/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525374298&sr=8-1&keywords=code+reader

edit- added that they're cheap

ANCEL AD310 Classic Enhanced Universal OBD II Scanner Car Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mAcQCbEX9TYAK

https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enhanced-Universal-Diagnostic/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3J0UG99B3OY3T&keywords=obd+scan+tool&qid=1572484850&s=automotive&sprefix=obd+sc%2Cautomotive%2C222&sr=1-5

You can pull the check engine light codes yourself. Buy an OBD scanner like this. If it's gas cap related, you can reset the CEL yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enhanced-Universal-Diagnostic/dp/B01G5EA74I

There are a couple on amazon I'm thinking about. Would like to keep it under $50.

Deciding between this ANCEL AD310, and this ANCEL AD410. Either one seems to fit my pretty basic needs for a scanner...

here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zm14BbNPB1NZP

[OBD II Engine Code Scanner] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=gbps_img_m-7_759e_1734342c?pf_rd_p=70acffa0-6735-44b1-b69d-ab83e4d3759e&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-7&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=G2TTZ9G4FX9E7PDE2W37)

Thanks so much for the time you put into this well written reply! Lots of good info and links.

Looks like I am down to 2 scanners as far as choices go.

Looking at:

1. LAUNCH X431 V PRO
   
2. Autel Maxidas DS808
   
   Not really sure which one to go with though. Do you have any experience with either?
   
   ​
   
   > That being said, the idle adaptive on your engine will relearn by itself through just driving it. If idle is abnormal there is likely some other issue here besides just a relearn; possibly a vacuum leak or faulty throttle body. You may want to be aware that throttle body problems are VERY common on this model; GM increased the warranty coverage on them to 10 years/ 120,000 miles from in service date (TSB #14582A dated 10/7/2015). If you are within that coverage you can probably get this fixed for free.
   
   Yeah this is a strange one. Never had any throttle issues or throttle codes before the cleaning and definitely do not have a vacuum leak from what I can tell. I have an android head unit with Torque App in the car with an elm OBDII Bluetooth adapter so I can see and clear codes and see some data but its limited. The air/fuel ratio is 14.7:1 and its pulling between 17hg - 22hg vacuum depending on throttle position. If I remember correctly these are the right parameters but unfortunately my memory isn't that great from my health issues. I also don't hear a vacuum leak. Testing for a leak on this car kind of sucks due to the massive air cleaner silencer covering the whole top of the engine, Can't see or test much with it on and can't take it off due to loosing mass air flow with it off. If I remember right the dealer had a special tube to bypass the silencer/cover.
   
   Also something else strange is that if you put the car in gear, after about 6 seconds the idle will come down to normal and stay there after putting it back in park. If however I give it even the slightest smidgen of throttle the idle will shoot back up and stay there.
   
   The only code that sets is a P0507 for high idle detected and only started after cleaning the throttle body. Unfortunately it doesn't throw any of the codes listed in the TSB so it isn't covered.
   
   I think the only way I am going to figure this out is with a scan tool. I need to see if TP 1& 2 agree or disagree. It would also be helpful to do a sweep test which can be done with a Tech2/Candi. Can't really tell if the 2 scanners I listed can do this or not. I do know they are suppose to reset the idle cells though.
   
   I do feel it could be either a bad throttle body or Faulty ECU or perhaps even a bad peddle assembly but with not having the right tools its hard to diagnose. At the same time its hard to believe any of those parts are bad due to the lack of codes and no issues until cleaning. Hopefully getting a scan tool and initiating a relearn with it will straighten it out.
   
   So wish I was still in the business with access...

No, I plug in the code reader I have into the car and it tells me what the issue is right away so I know how urgent it is. That said, if your car's check engine light is on, there's almost always a reason for it and you shouldn't ignore it! :)

Here's one for $35~ plus tax. But theres a few cheaper available: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5EA74I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T8PUCbA5Z3GE1