Best aluminum angles according to redditors

To make this easier in a practical way, you could roll your dice into something like a 90 degree piece of aluminum (like this).

Once the dice are settled, you can always see which two numbers you got. It also makes it easier if orientation doesn't matter, which gives you 12 possibilities instead of 24.

Edit: One disadvantage I see with this strategy is that you can't use the values of the faces as numbers. Getting 1,4 and 2,3 are both possible. So you'd have to assign numbers to each combination (e.g. 1,2 = 0; 1,3 = 1; etc.)

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

I'm not suggesting you add a secondary support. Rather, just a piece of aluminum angle bar mounted on the front support, at the same height as the rear support. This will allow the front of the GPU's PCI I/O shield to rest against a solid surface, effectively holding up the attached PCB even if it can't rest on a rear support. In fact, you could probably reduce your costs if you used this same angle-bar for the top portion of the front-support as well. It would allow you to thread the mounting points just the same as using tubing, but would eliminate any issues with DVI ports placed within 1 inch of the top of the PCI I/O shield (which would otherwise prevent you from being able to mount the PCI I/O shield flush against the tubing). It will also eliminate the issue someone else mentioned regarding obstruction of the I/O shield vents on reference GPUs that exhaust out the I/O shield. Lastly, using the angle bar in the secondary, lower position on the front support structure allows for the addition of ASIC-supporting-sheets for future expansion, effectively making your chassis more relevant because of its upgradability (another made up word).

If I've still failed to explain myself clearly, just try this: Attach a second, horizontal cross-bar to the front support structure at the same height as the rear support's horizontal bar. This sorts out support issues for short cards, and adds a level mounting surface for ASIC-supporting acrylic sheets. And if that front-support horizontal bar is aluminum angle rather than tubing, it should cost less. And if the top horizontal bar of the front support is also aluminum angle rather than tubing, you've further reduced your costs, and eliminated any compatibility issues with DVI ports or exhaust vents.

I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.

Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.

You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.

After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.