Best automotive coolant temperature sensors according to redditors

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

You need one of these

IPD:

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5728/113129-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5342/103084-thermostat-90-c-850-c70-s70-s60-s80-v70-xc70-2001-2004-s40-v40

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8819/115413-water-pump-bolt

$31.54 plus shipping, which is like $6 I think. IPD is awesome but more expensive.

Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B004Z76EKE/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-9125463/dp/B01FU2TWTC

$18.19 with Prime if you get the Warehouse Deals thermostat, but no bolts (too expensive to bother).

Pick your poison. If $20 is a big deal to you right now then go Amazon, but hurry before that cheap t-stat disappears.

The fix is easy - pull the upper coolant hose and have a container to catch the coolant. Use a wrench to get the coolant sensor off. Use a star bit to get the thermostat housing off. Get the old thermostat out, pop the new one in with seal, cover and bolts back in, new sensor in the housing, hose back on. Start the car, let it come up to temp, then pour the coolant back in the overflow reservoir. Top off with water if necessary. Maybe a 20 minute job.

http://i.imgur.com/TtE0Z16.jpg

check coolant temp sensor. it affects fueling. if in doubt, spend the $12 and get a new one. not sure if the one from autozone has an oring, but the one on amazon does

https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-158-0629-Coolant-Temperature/dp/B001UEBXNS

Yeah Jeep made two versions of each: one that only sends out a pulse to light up the dash (the type you have now), and the kind that will vary (what you will need). I bought this (Wells TU108 Engine Coolant Temperature Sender https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026N1S4G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) temp sensor and it's been working great so far. I haven't gotten an oil pressure sensor yet, so I don't have a link for you, but it's about the same.

I’m using these on a Land Rover disco 2 to control a 16” puller. Going to tap the adapter tomorrow.

Aluminum Water Temperature Sensor Adapter (32MM, Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FY2WEC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j3eJDbH22VHV7

PartsSquare 185 To 200 Degree Electric Fan Thermostat Sensor Temperature switch 50 amp Relay Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4BA1C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_93eJDbT1AE1W9

I think that 2 100 watt panels and a MPPT charge controller that has temperature compensation is a good start. I recommend MPPT as it means that you can add on more panels in series if you decide you want more power.

that will use 15-18 amps on the controller, so 30 amp or 40 amp will work. the 40 amp will give you more options for expansion.

I generally recommend starting modestly, but making sure you have a current monitoring shunt like this one:

https://www.amazon.ca/Voltmeter-Ammeter-Voltage-Current-Motorhome/dp/B07FGFFHC6/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=shunt&qid=1572507111&sr=8-11

or this one, if you can spend a couple extra bucks:

https://www.amazon.ca/Victron-BAM010700000-BMV-700-Battery-Monitor/dp/B01BVQR0V8/ref=sr_1_9?crid=ZBWAN561Q25B&keywords=victron+battery+monitor&qid=1572507173&sprefix=victron+ba%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-9

if you start with a small system and monitor it you can start to ask and answer questions like:

Do my batteries fully charge during the day?

Do my batteries last the night?

Can i survive a cloudy day?

What devices are really expensive to run?

How can i modify my behavior to draw less power?

paperwork and measuring are a good start and will give you a good idea, but if you plan for a small system you can start to monitor the real world performance of it all and expand the system in the right area for your needs.

final note, you say you currently have batteries. make sure they aren't car batteries, and are designed for deep cycle use... otherwise they will pooch out very quickly.

This is the 1 pin. It is for the gauge, and does not need to be changed. It's on the cylinder head

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-70-Original-Equipment-Temperature/dp/B000C9GRDI

This is the 2 pin, it's on the intake manifold near the thermostat, and this tell your ECM the temperature

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-928-Equipment-Multi-Purpose-Temperature/dp/B000C9I038

Of course you don't need the AC Delco brand parts, but it's the numbers i got from the factory parts diagrams from YOUR SPECIFIC TRUCK just to be absolutely sure.

Update: This morning, I got in my car and started it after it had been sitting in the driveway all night. Started fine. 45 minutes or so of driving later, I got into work. about 20 minutes after that, I tried to start it again and I had the same problem as yesterday, would crank but wouldn't start. So I go back into the office, consider calling AAA, wait for maybe another 10-15 minutes and try again. Starts perfectly. So now I'm thinking it has something to do with trying to start the car while the engine is still in a hot state. In both casees where it wouldn't start, I was trying to start it after a decent drive with a short period of time with the engine resting.

A google search suggests it might be the engine coolant temperature sensor has gone bad. Which looks like something I could replace myself with a $15 part I could buy on Amazon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umjDiWKHxjs

Should I try this?

After looking and you really can't find it try tracer dye is there anything that looks like it has been sprayed on? and cracks on the radiator? any holes in the lines?

Yes. You can pick up a monitor, that you "ought" to have anyway and just mount it near the gaming center.

I use a Victron Energy Battery Monitor, BMV-700, but they're are bunches out there that do about the same thing.

I have mine mounted a ways away from the battery bank. It comes with a long cable just for this reason.

This might not be the correct part:

https://www.amazon.com/Coolant-Temperature-Connector-Replaces-158-0421/dp/B01EENEJ8M

What you need is a replacement ECT sensor pigtail. A place like NAPA might have that.

So you did replace the head? What was the price on the head itself? Heck, even full rebuild.

I thought I blew my head last month - Thank fuck it was just the Rad.

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Water Temp Gauge

npt Fitting (check the size of your rad hose)

also I have:

Engine Gaurd - It is a bolt on sensor. It runs about 10c cooler on the highway (about 3-5c cooler in the city) than my digital but it has an alarm that screams if I hit a set temp. Great for highway or city driving. I would do it differently with a cheaper one next time. it's all the same shit.

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egt and boost I've yet to buy. I blanked my EGR I'm sort of waffling what route I want to go. Do I go all in with a digital display setup or analog gauges. I do not have the pod cluster like other delicas do so placing a few gauges could potentially look ugly.

the coolant temp gauge? leave it unplugged and see if it reads the coolant temp

edit:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRQ9R6B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i bought this one for mine a few months ago.