Best automotive replacement seals according to redditors

Thanks to discovering this sub a short while ago (it must have been u/victrhugochavez who posted the link in some of the other lifting-related subs I lurk in), I have managed to assemble a small, but perfectly formed home gym in a space of about a month.

As I haven’t got the room in the house for all the kit (nor would I want to noise pollute the living space, given that I do drop the weight on occasion), I have opted to set out in the small patio area, strategically taking over the space that was previously occupied by a children’s trampoline, before my wife made a move to put some garden furniture in :)

The equipment list is short (but sweet), reflecting the training I do (I’ve competed in a couple of powerlifting meets, but have been doubling with some weightlifting assistance recently):

• Ivanko OB-20KG weightlifting bar (acquired through eBay and restored over Christmas from a lot of surface rust and general mistreatment—thanks to u/dontwantnone09 for his post here)
  
• Ivanko CO-2.5KG competition collars (as above, treated with Hammerite Kurust and then repainted with Hammerite Hammered Silver)
  
• Rogue SML-3 squat stand with Matador dip attachment (not seen in the picture) and two sets of weight holders. The inside of all parts was treated with Comma anti-rust wax seal and the all unused holes were capped with Heyco DP-625 15.9mm dome plug. Top of the uprights were closed off with some compatible square tube inserts.
  
• 190 kg worth of Bison black bumper plates from Wolferson Fitness (2x25, 4x20, 2x15, 2x10, 2x5)
  
• [Wolferson Fitness flat bench] (http://wolverson-fitness.co.uk/products/flat-fixed-bench?variant=14450677447)(rated to 400 kg)
  
• Flooring is three sheets of external WBP plywood (18+4+18mm) treated with Ronseal decking protector and sealed with white silicone sealant (which you see splattered all over the place in the pictures, since then cleaned). Rubber mats are a mix of 0.5x0.5m and 0.5x1m gym flooring from Origin Fitness.
  
  The planned additions are:
  
  
• Monster Lite safeties for SML-3 stand ordered from Rogue Europe and should be arriving early next week.
  
• A roll of medium density chipfoam to even level the flooring and dampen the noise a bit more.
  
• A lean-to wall canopy to enable training in all weather conditions.
  
  All-in cost for all of the above was approximately £1,500, so this is not about saving money, it’s about training when and how I want to, without having to deal with the idiocy of most commercial gyms (quarter “squatting”, curling in the squat rack, and pumping bis for the girls seven days a week).
  
  Bonus video of yesterday’s BW front squats (after 20 reps of back squats and 40 reps of bench presses).

definitely makes sense to either upgrade to a ZJ tie rod or some other combination of HD components rather than rebuild stock with new parts when the price is probably going to be pretty close. I put the Crown HD steering kit on mine last year during a full refresh http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-HDSTRGCR1-Heavy-Steering/dp/B008VPUOSO/ref=sr_1_1 (basically a ZJ tie rod with beefier TREs and a new drag link). I'm pretty happy with the quality of it for the price, but definitely want to swap out the provided TRE boots for some poly ones. There's also a Rugged Ridge setup which looks much beefier than stock for $248, though I haven't read any experiences beyond this one apart from the Amazon reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-18050-82-Heavy-Duty-Conversion/dp/B0013REXY8/ref=sr_1_3

Buy the Crown HD Steering Upgrade from Amazon. Brand new and better than stock, it's the V8 ZJ linkage.

I've done a few timing belts on those cars, they are not too bad.

• The tricky part is you need the pulley holder tool and either one mofo of a breaker bar or a 3/4 air impact to get the crank pulley off.
  
  
• On the interwebs there are lots of PDFs of the FS Manual for that car. Of course the tricky part is lining up everything.
  
  
• On that engine you have both a timing belt and a balancer belt.
  
  
• You also want to change the water pump, tensioner as well as crank and balancer shaft seals.
  
  
• Use Honda coolant.
  
  
• The 2.2 motor had the bad habit of spitting out balancer shaft seals (which dumps all oil instantly). There is a special balance shaft retainer clip you do need to install to prevent that seal from popping out.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-006-Counter-Balance-Shaft/dp/B001DAIN8W

So after a little more searching I found a site that had a good diagram so I thought I'd update for future reference.

Here are the part numbers for all the bearings/seals:

• seal-oil, drive pinion - 38189-N3112 (x1)
  
  oem/aftermarket
  
  
• bearing drive pinion front - 38140-V7000 (x1) (this item is discontinued but can still be found at some places)
  
  oem
  
  
• seal-oil differential side - 38342-N3100 (x2)
  
  oem/aftermarket
  
  
• bearing differential side - 38440-N3111 (x2)
  
  oem/aftermarket
  
  
• bearing drive pinion rear - 38120-06P10 (x1)
  
  oem
  
  All OEM price came out to $296.12 and going with the cheapest prices (at least that I could find on a quick search) came out to $218.26. If you do look and find any of the parts cheaper than what I've linked from reputable sites let me know.
  
  Hope this helps someone out.

You are going to need the hub seal tool. Depending on year you'll need this. That hub seal you need, and your 4x4 wont work right if its not on there. Needs to be airtight fit.

2005+

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6698-Knuckle-Installer-Current/dp/B004FZCH70/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-2


99-2004

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6695-Shaft-Installer-1998-2004/dp/B0015PKC5W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-1

Something like this will do fine. Valvoline VV370 DEXRON-VI Full-Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZSKBU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_98ErybYB570MD . My Mazda lists Dex atf on the cap, as others here have said.

I believe this is the deal you need:

Yukon (YMS5778) Replacement Pinion Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078UAIH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_It4ZBbS9MRJE2

You need to tighten up the yoke properly in order to adjust the preload. You have to take out the carrier to do so (I believe).

Also this is what you want. It's the same as stock, accept the tie rod is a solid bar instead of hollow. Same thing the ZJ grand Cherokees have

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008VPUOSO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453240831&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=crown+hd+steering+jeep+tj

This is a quick and easy mod anyone who plans on putting their X in water over the axles should do. It takes less than 15 minutes and can save your rear diff.

​

Also, not taking away business from great supporters like Gorilla and PRG, but you can get the parts to do this mod on Amazon for >$25. Just need the axle vent, a filter and 8' of hose with clamps. While you're at it, buy 2 filters and add one to the front diff vent hose that comes up behind the air box.


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-263-Rear-Axle-Differential/dp/B00NF1S0LW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rear+axle+vent&qid=1563124009&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Clear-View-Glass-Filter/dp/B000VSDZIK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5%2F16+fuel+filter&qid=1563124185&s=gateway&sr=8-5