Best bike brake pads according to redditors

You could start with better friction pads.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ should fit.

Tektro should make a dual divot caliper that fits, but you'll need to measure the distance from the mount hole to the pads to find the right size.

Of course, that assumes that the cables are new and the levers are of adequate pull.

A) WTF are you doing to burn through brake pads in less than a month? I am 160 lbs and have owned the same main bike since 2012, commuted fast and daily from Brooklyn to Chelsea on it for at least 4 years in total, toured with 35 lbs of gear on a 2000 mile trip through Europe (including 40 mph descents through the mountains) and am just now needing to replace my Shimano 105 pads.

B) I'm replacing them with Kool-Stop Road Bike pads based on my awesome experience with them as mountain bike pads.

C) Unless you're wayyyy heavier, going a lot faster (Strava says I average about 14mph through the city, stopping at most lights), are constantly riding the brakes, or have them incorrectly installed, I just can't fathom how this would be happening.

D) If you're truly burning up pads this quickly, your rims may be (are probably) shot too (assuming rim brakes, not discs).

So... I had the same pads most likely on the R670... and they're just not great pads. What they really lacked was modulation, plus they built up crap in them constantly.

• I am using swissstop pads now, but only because I have carbon wheels. They are still good, but I've heard awesome things about shimano's pads on normal wheels. Plus, they're cheap.
  
  
• Pads are pads so far as fit, but yours are probably all-in-one instead of having separate pads/shoes like shimano equipment. So you'll need to buy the whole assembly. I got these, but you can get the 105 version for a bit less as well.

You might try replacing the brake pads with some of the Kool Stop salmon colored pads. I believe the "Continental" would fit these.

http://amzn.com/B001SYM690

Good job.

Now get some brakes!

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-857AL-Linear-Pull-Brake/dp/B0196UXWYU/

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

Cheap!

(for cutting brake cable.. dremel cut off wheel in a ventalated area and a nail or something like that for clearing out the hole. for cutting the actual wire wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end and it'll prevent fraying.)

:D

edit:

Once you get some miles on it let us know what sort of range and performance you are getting. Looks like a fun ride.

Just so you know those shifters are pretty sought-after and go for decent money on eBay. They work awesome, keep them, but when you move on from this bke you can probably get your $60 back pretty easily.

That said, your easiset upgrade is to change the brake calipers. Some good reliable brakes are the Tektro ones here, but then you're doubling the cost of the bike. If you have a bike co-op in your town go see if you can get a decent used set.

Whatever else you do, change the brake pads. These are ultra cheap and formulated to work with steel rims. You can check with a magnet if your rims are steel.

Toe-in your brakes, and use dual-compound brake pads like these



https://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/brake-squeal.html

Velo Orange makes replacement half-hoods.

Kool stop makes racer pads so your brakes work again.

A little saddle soap and some ass-time and that saddle will get comfy again. It's an AGDA, which is the french knockoff of a brooks.

If you're going to ride it, get a shop with a cotter pin press to replace the cotter pins now; it'll make your life way better. Otherwise, grease 'er up and go!

I have a slightly nicer (JIS cranks) bike of the same vintage. They're lovely things.

Adding to the point about upgrading the brakes, I bought a bike two years ago with very similar brakes (Fuji Sportif) and even upgrading the brake pads to these made a huge difference in stopping power over the stock pads. Plus the ability to swap just the pads instead of the brakes is great in the long run. Like zmjones said if you're just using it for fitness it's a perfectly nice bike and Claris is a solid groupset.

Or get the pads you want with new holders for less

Or equally good (to 6800) 6700 sets for $10

Or any of the dozens of generic "ultralight" holders on eBay for $9.

If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD7XL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.

These are also pretty good albiet more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1536557364

BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.

You need the appropriate holder for your brakes.

For lots of Shimano/Shimano-type road brakes, that's this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

I recently (as in 6 days ago) started biking again, having been away from the activity for about 15 years.

Last Sunday, I bought a foldie and I've had so much fun with it, I decided to get a proper road bike. I've always wanted to own a road bike with drop bars, thinking about how cool the idea was to shift gears with/around the brake levers.

With a budget of about 300 USD (I did not want to spend too much blindly), I started stalking the local used bike marketplace. I saw lots of cheap no-name bikes (~$75–$100), and lots of expensive bikes ($1,500+). Not so easy to find something in between.

Then, I stumbled upon a listing for a "Trek bicycle" for $300. That was about all the information provided online for the item. I chatted with the seller, who didn't really know what he had himself. I looked at the pictures of his bike, and compared it to Trek's archive. Turns out it's a 2012 Trek 1.2, pretty much what I was hoping to find.

Incidentally, he also lives like a 10-minute walk away from my home, so I promptly walk over there to meet him and test the bike. The chain and sprockets are a little dirty – looks to me like too much or wrong type of grease applied and dirt got stuck to it over time – but it still pedals smoothly and quietly. I figure I'd just have to replace the bartape and may as well replace the chain, crank and cassette anyway.

Guy sees what I see, and drops the price down to $265. We shake hands, and I cycle home on my first ever road bike. Changing gears with the brake lever is everything I imagined it would be :D

Also, the reviews about the 1.2 weren't kidding. These brakes are horrendous. Anyone have a recommendation on what I should do with them? I read some (older) forums mentioning to use Kool Stop Salmon, but I have absolutely no experience with road bikes (15 years ago when I did ride, it was exclusively MTB).

I love it just as it is, anyway :)

One thing I'd really recommend is to hit up ebay for some better brake handles, as those dia-compe handles don't work particularly well. My old Shogun had those same handles someone had put on it, and braking was terrible.

I found some Shimano 600 brake levers for $20 (was a score actually). It brakes as well as my modern bike with those handles. Here's a pair for $30

Also, with standard old brake handles you can get some Cane Creek brake hoods off Amazon for cheap. Also, these grey brake pads work really well on the older brakes.

Other than that, tune it up and ride on! Looks like a great bike.

Yabbadabbadizzle, these will.

The rim is fine, take a scotch-brite pad with some soap and water and scrub it down.

Replace your pads (from what I can see, they'll be these)

Note: That groove on your rim is a wear groove. When it disappears, you're rims should be replaced.

I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

Second time I've recommended these today! When the pads wear out, you can try these pads for the wetter weather.

I've always been fine with the Shimano pads, but some like the Kool-Stop better.

Check to make sure the brake pad hasn't hardened or has a piece of metal stuck in it and is scratching the rim. I got a 2014 Trek 1.2 in May and I noticed a scratching sound on the back brake during the first ride. I took off the brake pad and it was clean. When handling the brake pad it felt like it was a rock. I checked the other 3 pads and they felt softer, like regular rubber.

When reading reviews about this bike before I bought it. A common thing was the bad brake pads. I decided to upgrade the brake pads. I got some Shimano br-6700 cartridge pads and they are amazing.

Depends on your brake manufacturer. Avid:
http://www.amazon.com/Avid-Standard-Bleed-Disc-Brakes/dp/B0063HM5AM

I don't think that's a 28" wheel. check again, old bikes are 27", new ones are 700mm, mountain bikes are 26" or 29".

Tires: Paselas used to be cheap and good 27" replacements at $15 each but the prices have gone up. CST brand on amazon are cheap chinese ones. Bell has these kevlar lined for $15

https://www.amazon.com/C638-Wall-Wire-Bike-Black/dp/B0037N32QQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405078&sr=1-7&keywords=27%22+tire

add 2x 27" tubes (700cc ~28-32mm tubes might work) for $4

Diacomp brakes: $6.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

brake and gear cables and housing: $6

https://www.amazon.com/PITCREW-500-Cable-Change-Kit/dp/B002GCALOU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405425&sr=1-1&keywords=bell+brake+cables

Bottom brackets needs sweat equity, repacking with grease and wash out the crap.

So you're looking at $50 in materials and about 2 hours of time. I've done this on an old 27" bike and still had stem shifting, man when you get the opportunity finding a decent STI shifting bike on craigslist for $200-300 would be a great value to keep your eyes on.

Don't upgrade anything more on this. god help you if it's a french bike with french threading.

You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.

Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.

Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.

I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.

If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XFsKDb119BBTN

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T35RSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHsKDbR6NBC2N

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

Front brake is your friend! And the pads on stock tektro brakes are awful in my opinion. I would recommend these instead.

Also, these are the Kool Stop Dura Ace pad holders that I was talking about. They should work with your old brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

General rule of thumb for 10-speed or fewer for Shimano: the number of sprockets in the cassette should match the number of speeds for the shifters, and the rear-derailleur should be Shimano compatible (which basically means the amount of cable pulled per mm of movement remains the same). A MTB derailleur allows for wider gearing in the back (bigger sprockets), but is otherwise being pulled the same amount by the shifters (same number of sprockets).

It's never a bad idea to spend a little extra on brakes, but I actually have had great luck with Sunlite cantilever brakes as long as a) you set it up correctly and b) use a different, higher quality set of brake pads.

>salmon compound pads

Like these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Cantilever-Compound/dp/B001SYR4HO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=27YULV4MFFFI8&coliid=IH37QA2V3O3IK&psc=1?

if they are stock brake pads i suggest replacing them , stock pads suck . Kool-Stop makes bitchen brake pads

i use these

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VT8VXQ3PEAV6TW65VHEX

​

also make sure you ajusted the brakes right so they both bite at the same time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YS1cW3I4OgQ

park tools does a good job explaining it

Those are steel rims, so in theory can be hammered out, with the tires removed, but I've never done it myself... Steel rims dent easily, as you've discovered, and they also don't stop well when wet. It's important to keep tire pressure up to the maximum rated on the sidewall to reduce chance of denting.

You could get a new set of wheels, though that bike might not be worth the investment.

As for pads, I'd recommend Koolstop salmon Continentals---

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373582725&sr=1-1&keywords=kool+stop+continental

Spend a few bucks and buy a set of decent pads like Shimano. I run a DP18 up front i grabbed from CL and it did not have a machined braking surface. I purposely burned through an old set of pads to break thru the clearcoat and paint to hit metal. If you have the NMSW rim then you go thru that first set of pads pretty quick. Now they are smooth, quiet, and with Shimano pads brake great. Just make sure with dual pivot pads you have them adjusted properly to the rim.

Edit: Changed the link to a set of pads.

I actually commute on a 1985 Schwinn Mesa Runner with a front hub conversion. As long as your brakes are adjusted correctly (I would also recommend getting new pads), they should be perfectly safe with an ebike kit. Test your stopping distance in both wet and dry conditions before a serious ride.

I got these cool stop brakes for my ebike and they are wonderful. I'm a heavier guy (~90kg), and with all the parts of my ebike, the bike probably weighs like another 20kg. I've carried another 10-15kg when I go grocery shopping.

I've only got them on the rear, but they work like 200x better than the shitty front brake pads. I highly recommend them. I've had mine for nearly 200km and they could some adjusting, but I don't think that they need to be replaced until ~500km.

I'm pretty sure that's a G1. I have the same on an old Jamis Diablo.

I've used these pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CK0IQI

Fortunately this caliper has worked flawlessly for me since ~2001 with little to no maintenance, so I've never had to try to rebuild them.

This Pinkbike post indicates a G2 rebuild kit will work on it https://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=192349 and indeed from a search it looks like rebuild kits are generally listed for both G1 & G2 as the same kit.

I went through the same thing a couple months ago. Never could find those pads. Ended up getting these on Amazon, been happy with them so far

EDIT: fixed link to go to correct pads (Gekors Semi-Metallic)

Kool stop dual compound brake pads

OR

Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

Depends on how long your daily ride is. For me, I just go with my leather coat and an extra layer, nice windproof gloves (windproof and waterproof is a huge plus) and some nice toasty (wool, stays warm even when wet) socks with an extra pair for when I get where I'm going. Helmet with a toque and my snowboard goggles on extra cold/windy/snowy days.

As for the bike, I ran continental gatorskins for the past 2 years with minimal problems. Just make sure to not go too fast into a turn and always keep an emergency line open. There are, of course, winter specialized/spiked tires that would give you more grip but I guess it depends on choice.

Important note: brakes. The normal compound you use for regular spring/summer/fall riding won't work. It freezes and loses all grip. Invest the $30 in a the winter specialized pad packs (these are the ones I used and found a huge improvement over the stock shimano pads in cold weather, but any cold-weather specific pads should work well) and actually retain stopping power when it gets cold, makes a huge difference.

You can use bbshd if you upgrade to kool stop ebike pads.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Lightweight-Version-Electric/dp/B00D6016MM

But ideally you would also change the front fork to something that has disc brake post mount. Ebike pads on the rear and something nice like hydraulics on the front, that's what I got on my Ludicrous bbshd. Front is rocking shimano slx with 203mm icetek rotors and i couldn't be happier with it. This was on a shit-tier $150 Walmart bike. Anything is possible with modifications, don't be afraid to go high power.

Brooks is the best, and expensive.

If you are on budget, for the saddle, Charge Spoon. Very comfortable.

Handlebar's aren't very expensive. VO Milano is $25.

Brake pads - you will need it, and makes the rider safer.Here is the link.

Fenders - VO alloy

I got this package for $20 on ebay http://www.savannahtrading.com/images/DURASET.jpg - 2 sets of pads and a pair of holders. Not highway robbery but still silly considering it probably cost $1 to manufacture.

My next pads will probably be Dia Compe. http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Grey-Matter-Brake/dp/B001CJZ2S8 2 pairs for $8. I had something similar before and don't recall how they performed but am pretty sure they were no worse than the salmon pads.

Aluminum rims.

>Would something like this work?

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-5700-L-RC55C3-Cartridge-Brake/dp/B004JKJKWG/[2]

Yes.
(Source: Have the same calipers on one of my bikes)

Sizing:
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer

Tires:
http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x23-Folding/dp/B001UL5JNG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761173&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+tires

Brake Pads:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761257&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop

Tune ups:
http://www.wasatchtouring.com/
http://highlanderbikeshop.com/service/

The things that make the most sense to upgrade first are the cheap ones that move to a new bike the easiest:

• Saddle - the more you're standing while riding, the less important this will be. These are a cheap option to increase comfort while sitting:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CVY5ZXS/
  
  
• Pedals - these are nice flats for the money:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PD9Y5D6/
  
  
• Grips - I'm a fan of Ergon grips, but lots of options out there for under $25 that are better than stock
  
  
  Things that won't move with you that may make sense to look at:
  
  
• Brake pads - Kool stop pads like these are usually considered some of the better rim brake pads out there:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ0Q2/
  
  Tires - you're likely to find something with a little more aggressive tread than what you have for $20 / tire on clearance.

So I recently lost one of my brake pads. I have these brakes and planning on buying these replacements. Can anyone advise if these brakes are the right ones? They look like they fit, but I know there are other types of brakes like v-brakes and disc brakes that I don't know too much about. Thanks!

so this one? there seem to be a couple models to choose from
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425337739&sr=8-2&keywords=kool+stop

I just picked up some of these. Haven't used them yet though, still waiting for my battery to come in: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6016MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Reminded me of scwinn branded brake pads that were on my wife's bike.
I had a pair of old SHimano breaks lying around and simply replaced brakes all together...
But amazon says it could be Tektro https://www.amazon.com/Road-Passion-Bicycle-Tektro-IOX-11/dp/B078WNNWXP?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_14

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kool+stop+mountain+brake+pads&qid=1562761914&s=gateway&sprefix=koolstop+mount&sr=8-3

In their stock config the longer spacer is already on the inside.

Thanks, that makes sense!

Would this work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TE9IQP68MWQU

I ordered up a couple pairs of these Kool Stop pads from Amazon. Will report back once I get and install them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ

I run kool stop dual compound brake pads on my Bianchi (Ambrosio Elite steel rims). It took a bit of modification, but these work great and are significantly better than the old pads. Works fine in the rain. http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

See if you can find somewhere to order in/buy the ones KoolStop offers :) http://www.koolstop.com/english/mafac.html.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003OK5TSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493493194&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kool+stop+macfac. Huzzah! I suggest the 'salmon' compound over the black for cleaner braking in the rain. :)

like these?

Pads are cheap and easy to replace, decent ones aren't even too expensive. I run https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ on my bikes myself and the difference between them and stock Tektro pads (or 30 year old pads) is night and day. They also stand out if anyone takes your bike, I mean who else has black/salmon pads? http://i.imgur.com/LEu0Ppj.jpg

If pads don't do it, you might need a cable replacement too. It's one of the easiest tasks around, you'll just need cable cutters which is the most expensive part of the whole ordeal.

thanks for the advice. Ordered these form Amazon.ca which I think are the same as the linked nashbar ones. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New brake pads made a big difference for me. I bought these and they made a big difference. Also make sure your brakes are adjusted correctly.

What /u/mmembrino said. I recommend the Kool Stop

Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.

I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.

Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Fuck...I ordered the Dura-Ace pads. What's the difference with Dura2? The pads already in my brakes don't have the little "ribbed" backing so I thought the Dura-Ace/Ultegra pads looked more similar.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

Found the tires x2.
Tubes x2.
Seat is your choice, look for a "cruiser seat" if you want to retain the look of it x1.
Brake pads x2.

Cable kit is above. That should give you a rough outline of what I had to replace on mine, not counting opening up any of the sealed components to clean and regrease.

My buddy built one of these when he was barely scraping by without a car after high school. Said it was great at getting him to work except for the fact he was running though brake pads like weekly since he used a 70's road bike with the extra atrocious eraser type brake pads.

You could try a harder pad, but often that results in less friction or more force required at the lever to get the same braking performance. Kool-stop used to make great rim brake pads and appear to still make them. Might be worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hnEYDbJ9WSXJP


They are about twice the cost initially but once pad replacement is required, the insert is about the same price at the pads you currently use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJVA9S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4pEYDb6FBC54S

If you decide to try these or any other pad, verify fitment. It's been years since I've worked on a road bike and don't know if compatibility is what I remember. They visually look the same as far as mounting goes.

I never had issues with my Hayes Stroker Trail brakes (pads, regular bleeding, etc) until I had to replace the pistons and seals in the caliper. The seals were bad and leaking brake fluid out onto the pads, and the pistons were also cocked sideways and wouldn't move smoothly.

Bleeding a Hayes brake from empty is one of the most excruciating experiences I've had with bicycle maintenance. Even bleeding my motorcycle brake lines from empty, which have a ton of places for air to hide, was enjoyable compared to the Hayes. The caliper and master cylinder just will not let air out. I tried 3 or 4 times and then just put some shitty old mechanical disc brakes back on the bike (this was my commuter so I wasn't going to spend top dollar on new parts).

Avid on the other hand sells a very nice kit, which while a bit pricey, does the job in no time flat and the caliper and MC seem to dump air pretty well. That said I'm on the verge of having a MC seal failure on my Elixir 3s and we'll see how much I like them after I have to rebuild those. :)

I have a 73 Continental which is almost identical. Love that bike. Lots of cheap parts available for it and it's built like a tank (of course that means it's heavy as shit). Nice wide tires so it can go anywhere.

You'll want a new saddle and some new pedals at least. If the rest is in good shape I say leave it.

These should be the brake pads you need.

www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3a5qybTMGFV9C

You're welcome. Remove that cable but save it so you can use for measurements. You CAN ride the bike without it but it will be in low (3rd) gear.

Shifting on these goes like this...

1 (1st) is high gear and is the easiest. When used the cable pulls that indicator chain all the way out.

2 (2nd) is normal as if riding a single speed bike. The cable pulls the indicator about halfway.

3 (3rd) is low gear and the hardest to pedal in. Cable doesn't pull at all. Takes a bit more muscle to pedal but you can go really fast.

Once you replace that cable you'll have a nice bike to ride. They are ridiculously easy to maintain once you get the hang of it.

Also, your wheels probably have chrome/steel rims. You will want to replace the brake pads with Kool-Stop Continentals. Get the SALMON (orange) colored ones here. These are the best brake pads for these old wheels. Salmon color only though!

I have a new in box avid bleed kit if you're interested. http://www.amazon.com/Avid-Standard-Bleed-Disc-Brakes/dp/B0063HM5AM

I had a look at the Hayes website and a quick google around and I think the answers are as follows:

1. I believe it is a G1 caliper.
   
   
2. Looking at the images from 1, if the connector currently functions, then simply unscrewing the existing hose and pushing on a new hose would probably work. The caveat is of course, as long as Jagwire hoses have the same ID as the original hoses.
   
   
3. The rebuild instructions are available on the Hayes website, no rebuild kits are listed. The pads are readily available according to Google, same as MX 1 pads, and it looks like Chain Reaction has rebuild kits. So does Amazon
   
   
4. I would ignore all of the above and make a small aluminium spacer to allow a standard IS or Post mount adaptor to fit inside the rear triangle. It would require a little fiddling around with cardboard templates, but I think a simple rectangular spacer with some holes drilled in it (perhaps two would need to be tapped) would allow the use of a more modern brake system and probably cost you not much more than all the bits needed to make these work properly again. Rebuilding them is risky because you are assuming the inside of the calipers is still in good condition, if you open them up first and inspect you can make a better decision.
   
   I revived an old set of Avid Juicy 5 brakes, just because I could, but when you look at the price of new Shimano kits, it just isn't worth it.
   
   Good Luck

> I think I might like a minimum of a 105 groupset, but I haven't seen any bikes on that website that include the brake calipers/pads in that groupset. Is this cause for concern?

One way that site saves money is by going to less expensive brake calipers. Some major manufacturers do this as well, actually. Fortunately, Tektro brakes aren't all that bad -- maybe a bit heavier, but the stopping power is usually fine. If it's not, replacing the brake pads with some good Kool Stop pad for about $7 (each wheel) is an easy fix. You can also replace the brakes with [105 calipers]http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_576933_-1___) for $46 total (during a 20% off sale), and that's a relatively simple change to make.

> Next, are the clipless pedals that are sometimes included any good? I thought I read here that the pedals that are included for free are always pretty bad.

I wouldn't say they're bad, but they definitely give you the cheapest pedal they can find. And it's not like good pedals cost that much anyway. Shimano's R540 ($26 during a sale) and M520 ($19 during a sale) are perfectly fine pedals for casual riders. Or even modestly serious riders, honestly. I wouldn't choose a bike from them because it came with pedals. The pedals might be good enough, but if not it's an easy upgrade.

Kool-Stop organic pads are semi-metallic, so that’s where I must have picked up my understanding. It appears that organic can describe any pad that aren’t fully metallic. I thought that resin and semi-metallic were mutually exclusive descriptors until I stumbled upon this.

Found these too

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Lightweight-Version-Electric/dp/B00D6016MM

Anyone here use them?

You want this style if you can get it to fit.

You have cantilever brakes and the squealing could be caused by a few things. However, I would really recommend getting that brake cable replaced as well. Judging from the photo it looks like it's either rusted or really worn out or there's some corrosion going on there. Either way I would inspect the cable to see if you need to have it replaced.

Since you're new to biking I would recommend having a shop install the pads for you + check the cabling. Cantilevers are extremely fussy if you don't have them dialed in right. Maybe ask to watch them do it so you can see how it's done for next time. Something like these will work with your setup:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Eagle-Cantilever-Bicycle/dp/B001SYR4HO?th=1

> single pivot caliper brakes suck

SheldonBrown disagrees:

"Shimano Linear Response, a series of friction-reducing modifications introduced in the late 1980's in the
Shimano 105 group. The 105 SLR brakes (the best sidepull calipers ever made, in my opinion) "

I can speak from experience that my BR1050s and BR6400s stop just as good as any modern dual pivot, and look much better on a vintage bike IMO. If you're having problems with braking performance, it's most likely the pads. Spend that $40 on some KoolStop Dura 2s, and you'll never need to "upgrade" to dual pivot.

I would upgrade to Shorty side pulls and these pads http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1374713430&sr=8-7&keywords=bicycle+brake+pads