Best bike car rack accessories according to redditors
We found 60 Reddit comments discussing the best bike car rack accessories. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 60 Reddit comments discussing the best bike car rack accessories. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
You can get 3 kayaks (maybe 4) on a properly setup "Stacker" system - Malone, Rhino, Thule and others make such systems (basically two poles that mount ontop crossbars that can fold down when not in use) Example
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Prerequisites - you'll need a good set of crossbars & mounts that can bear the weight of 3-4 kayaks. Then get the stackers, good cam straps (6), some minicell foam blocks (6) ( two sets usually come with the stackers) and bow stern ties (6) and you'll be set! Tip - if you get Crossbars that extend past your roof by 6"+ or so inches, you may be able to fit 4 kayaks on your roof...just be sure to be careful on your turns ;-)
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This is the stacker we used and carried 4 kayaks for a while, until we moved onto a KariTek system
By the looks of it, He has a custom BMX Y cable splitting the front brake lever into 2. One side goes into his OG brake, the other side has the EZ split you see him screw on. When the lever is pulled, the cargo caliper would stop the bike, but the original caliper would just open and close as if you pressed the brake without a wheel / disc.
It's connected to the bike via the front fork and the bottom bracket. The bottom bracket uses a U-Bracket similar to the ones found on Mid-Drive e-bikes that use the bottom bracket as a large bolt to hold everything in place. once installed it would not hinder the operation and would barely be noticeable. I'm assuming this bracket has some sort of quick release or thru axle to attach the cargo frame.
The front fork mounts to a secondary headset with fork mounts instead of a stem and a cargo steering linkage instead of a fork. All of that connects to the actual front fork with an arm. This causes handling to be nearly identical to the original bike with the exception of wheel base. The only thing that confuses me about this is how does it account for the rake of various forks? There would need to be some sort of rotating hinge in order to prevent binding when the angles don't match
And that's the story about how I spent 4 hours watching a 20 second video instead of sleeping
An adapter like this that creates a top tube for carrying purposes is probably your best bet.
How broke are you? Do younhave $15 left?
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar-Adaptor/dp/B000ELSSZE
Durable Bike Bicycle Hook Tie Elastic Cord Luggage Bungee Strap Rope Band（2pcs） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LM1GHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y1jSAbKC708ZV
Holds pretty well but elastic enough not to crush the giant bags of spinach and tortilla chips in there. I have the handles of that bag looped over the back of the stem to prevent the load from pitching forward during a short stop. Sometimes I'll use an additional bungee to secure it to the frame horizontally.
Overhang is OK. Without a rack you are probably gonna have to use these, along with ratcheting straps.
Here you go. It was fairly simple to put together too. Also now that I am doing the math again it may closer to $45.00, I wasn't adding the tax up. Either way I am pretty happy with the turn out. At least the bikes aren't laying on top of each other when we go riding now.
This is all from Lowes.
Item #: 409445 | Model #: 126893
Unit Price - $1.98
Quantity - 1
Total -$1.98
Item #: 55817 | Model #: 190009
Unit Price - $0.11
Quantity - 4
Total - $0.44
Item #: 63403 | Model #: 180147
Unit Price - $0.12
Quantity - 4
Total - $0.48
Item #: 63408 | Model #: 300018
Unit Price - $0.16
Quantity - 8
Total - $1.28
Item #: 61821 | Model #: 190018
Unit Price - $0.15
Quantity - 2
Total - $0.30
Item #: 68883 | Model #: 290024
Unit Price - $0.16
Quantity - 4
Total - $0.64
Item #: 215938 | Model #: 11356
Unit Price - $8.33
Quantity - 1
Total - $8.33
edit: Update and formatting.
This is the one I have:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047THVIO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm very happy with it.
OP, PLEASE listen to everyone in the thread- those "brackets" are not going to hold for long. I ordered these for my truck bed @ $15 and they are fantastic assuming you mount them properly:
Delta Cycle Bike Hitch Locking Fork Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAM9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LzzrybEFH5T5X
Because then it would slide all over the bed and get scratched, but seeing how he strapped his bike in also made me cringe. Please buy one of these.
Optional, you can actually use a ruler if you want. But it makes the job a bit easier and more foolproof.
When it's time to replace your chain you'll need the "punch-style" chain tool to size the new one correctly, regardless of the type of chain you currently have. But you won't need one until then, so it's up to you if you want to buy it now or later. The "plier-style" is for removing quick links, but that's mostly a matter of convenience: I just recently got one myself, until now I've just used my fingers, or maybe a bit of wire if it's stuck.
I've used these, but I'm not a big fan. For regular chain maintenance, just some degreaser on a rag is enough. For deeper cleaning there's lots and lots of ways to clean a chain, including these cleaning tools. Other options: remove and shake in a bottle, use an ultrasonic cleaner, use two nail brushes pressed together ... or just not bothering with deep cleaning. It's really up to you.
I use Simple Green for most jobs. There's bike-specific degreaser, though, if you want.
This one is definitely bike specific! There's lots of options out there, but cleaning and lubing regularly is more important than which one you use. If you ride in the rain a lot, get a wet lube. I like wax-based lubes, for what it's worth.
I use an old toothbrush. I've never bothered with the "sickle-shaped cog scrapey thing," but that's because I remove the cassette completely if it gets dirty enough to need that.
Meh, if you want. I've never needed it.
I recommend finding something that lets you work on the bike at a more manageable height. Official bike stands are expensive, but work very well. There are cheaper options that get the job done, though.
For a long time I just mounted a bike hanger like this to the wall. The bike just sits in it, not overly secure, but it's enough to get the bike to a working height, and you can pedal to work on the chain. Enough to do basic maintenance. It also doubles as bike storage. I found this works best with road bikes (narrower handlebars).
More recently, though, I made a bike stand. It's still a work in progress, but I'll post pictures of it here eventually. It's made from sawhorse brackets and 2x4's as the base, and then I use this bracket for my road bike and this bracket for my mountain bike to secure it. The front wheel comes off and clamps down, and the bottom bracket rests on the top of the saw horse, with the wheel hanging off the back. It's secure, I can work in my yard and clean the bike on it, and it was pretty inexpensive to make. And I don't have to worry about clamping to carbon, or where I'm going to clamp with the suspension in the way, etc. The only downside is you can't work on the front wheel or brakes very conveniently. My design doesn't store very compactly, though I'm sure you can find a better way if that's a concern.
Most other tools can be picked up on an as-needed bases. Cable cutters when you replace cables. Lockring tool and chain whip when you want to remove the cassette. Bottom bracket wrench when it's time to service the bottom bracket. Cone wrenches when you service the hubs. A torque wrench if you have a carbon fiber bike. Etc.
I can't help with phone mounts, so I'll let someone else make a suggestion there.
Here's the link
It's mounted to my OE roof rack/x-bars with:
http://www.amazon.com/Yakima-8003590-Universal-MightyMount/dp/B0012SHLVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347118136&sr=8-1&keywords=yakima+mighty+mounts
and
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_roofracks_acc.htm
I have a shiny car that i don;t want to scratch too bad, and I'm just too lazy to lift my boat over my head when i load it alone, so i use one of these. Makes life a little easier.
I’ve also seen things like this Cross Bar adapter at my local bike shop. Could be helpful?
shit...you can even get them cheaper and STILL be better off than this guy.
Like this?
I do this with road bikes. This was one of the main reasons I bought an HRV.
I bought a couple of fork mounts, mounted them on a 2 x 4 and used velcro strips to secure the assembly to the carpet in the HRV. Works great since the bikes don't move around in the back.
Why couldn't you use this?
Hooks were this kind of thing. I can't find the exact ones — mine were 1/4" by 4" with machine threads so I could put wing nuts on them.
Fork mount was this one, but there are a ton of options.
Just bolt some of these near the front of the bed: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Bike-Fork-Mount-Carrier/dp/B00IFW3LD8/
Use stainless hardware.
Yakima makes a wind fairing that will probably fix some of issues. I have the areo bars, so I can’t say.
https://www.amazon.com/Yakima-8005018-WindShield-46/dp/B0171A6KKU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518632028&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Yakima+wind+guard
I'm using the Malone Stax Pro 2 and love it! It comes with the foam pads, straps (4 for the kayak, and 2 for front/rear tie down (not pictured here)).
Yesterday was actually the first time using it and it all worked way better than I expected. The kayaks didn't budge at all while tightened down. I also considered the J-cradles but decided on the Malone because it is about 40 bucks cheaper, not to mention for 2 kayaks, I would have needed 2 sets of the J-cradles, which would have been around $330 total.
What do you guys think of this style bike rack?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Fork mount for trucks https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IFW3LD8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can either get one of those crossbars that grabs the seatpost and the stem/steerer to create a horizontal holding point for the rack. Not the biggest fan of these because it's another thing to come loose and drop your bike on the highway, but it's the cheaper option.
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar/dp/B000ELSSZE
Or you can get a new rack that holds the bike up like a platform. If you're still married to the idea of a rack that attaches to your car with straps, then this:
http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/carriers-and-racks/bike-carriers/rear-door-mounted-bike-carriers/thule-raceway-platform-2-bike-9003-_-16002
Otherwise, consider investing in a hitch mount. They're really not that expensive, most of the time are easy to install, and very stable/safe mounting point for a rack. You can also find hitch mount platform racks for cheaper than that Thule. I don't know of any cheaper strap attachment ones.
Backpack on my rear rack, held on by a cargo net works for me.
INNO XA445 Surf-Wind-Long Board Locking Roof Carrier for T-Slot Aero Base Racks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P478MV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_3.bwCbDNED3FE
Got a yakima 3 bike trunk rack for 70 on nashbar. Truck rack plus an adapter bar for your frame is the cheapest option. get on the googles
https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar/dp/B000ELSSZE
A very inexpensive method for transporting your bike in the bed of your Tacoma is to purchase something this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_05dszbQ8H30KX
I bought 2 to transport friends bikes for a big event 4 of us went to. Screwed them to a piece of plywood and set it in the back of my F-150. Worked very very well. These are for traditional quick release axles. Amazon (and I'm sure your LBS) sells a version for through axle.
I definitely recommend a pair of shorts or bibs. For me personally it's bibs 100%. Since I got a set last summer, I haven't rode anything else.
Lock is nice if you plan to leave the bike unattended.
Waterbottles are a must.
A minimal set of tools so you can repair a flat and make adjustments on the road.
You do NOT absolutely need shoes or pedals right now. You can enjoy the bike as is and buy pedals/shoes when you are ready. Some shops will sell the bike with no pedals, others will include them. You can probably get them to throw in some cheap pedals with the sale to get you by for a while.
I also highly suggest a blinking head and tail light - as bright as possible. For day or night riding it'll help others see you.
Which bike did you end up deciding on? Your list in the other post was quite extensive and a very good list. Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/Malone-Standard-Block-Universal-Carrier/dp/B000SXN90C
Could I put these on the stock cross bars? Would they work for longer trips?
Edit: Also, don't have a kayak. Looking for canoe stuff.
What if you get one of these, and attach/weld it to the BOB. Then all you need to do is remove the front wheel, and clamp down the bike to the mount. If the trailer is low enough, then I don't see you having any issues.
I have a 2013 Exile Comp and an Allen hitch mount rack. It works, but just barely so. I ride a large frame which is long enough so that one of the arms just fits through the space between the shock and top tube, a size medium or small would probably not work without a top tube adapter.
With a heaver bike (compared to a road bike) I would definitely recommend a hitch mount. I almost lost two bikes on the highway with a trunk mount rack as one of the straps failed. A hitch receiver for a Civic should be ~$125-200 and if you get the three bike Allen hitch rack (a great rack) for ~$150 you are looking at around ~$300, but it's a solution that will work quite well.
Companies like Thule have universal adapters to go in all different sorts of aero bars. Factory or aftermarket cross bars. They tend to be a clamp style. you don’t put anything in the slots. All your accessories mount to a clamp. The clamp goes around the aero bars.
For example, I have all different type of accessories from my WRX when I had round cross bars. My CRV and I plan to get aero bars for my 19 Forester can handle all the old accessories by simply replacing the mounting adapter.
Does this help at all?
Yakima - Universal MightyMount, Mount for Factory or Aerodynamic Car Rack System (Set of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012SHLVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.SrTCb11ZAGNY
Sure, the Decathlon and Yosemite are very similar, both have 24v 250w motors and 7ah battery which is a modest size but should get you 20km. They would be adequate for towing a trailer on flat ground and up slight hills. The Monark and GreatWhite use more powerful 36v motors suitable for towing a trailer up moderate hills. The Monark has a much larger 11ah battery than the others so you could ride further, plus it has a 3-speed internal gear hub that lets you shift up or down gear when you are stationary which is very useful in stop and go city traffic. The GreatWhite is good value despite having a smaller 8ah battery I like it has a front disk brake which should provide Good stopping power. The Trinx is a pedal bicycle weighing 6kg lighter so will be easier to carry onto a bus. Finally you must consider what service level you need, Monark (3 year guaranty) and Decathlon (2 year guaranty) will honor their warranty, you can take the bike into one of their stores for service, vs the other cheaper bikes you will need to research how reliable the shop selling the bike is providing after sales service.
To attach the trailer to the Monark because it has an internal gear hub you would need to add a Thule axle adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/Thule-Child-Carrier-Internal-Adapter/dp/B00FY2ETAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=thule+axle+adapter+internal+gear+hub&qid=1555338822&s=instant-video&sr=8-1-fkmr1
There is! The Yakima fairing is just under $100 depending on what size you go with (I’m not entirely too sure which size would work best. Most likely 46” or 52”).
Yakima WindShield, 46" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171A6KKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ThWcBbVNFNG6S
Depending on whether you are just throwing your boat in the back of your trick or onto a rack there are a few different options. For the rack there are the expensive Thule and Yakima side loaders, and some cheaper Malone options that include suction rollers and extension bars.
One of the simplest items is just the simple pole with a bracket on top. Something you could easily make yourself. An example of one would be: https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-Universal-Loader-Kayaks/dp/B00C2Q3I72
With the pole you just need to get the front of your boat up onto the pole bracket and then you pick the back up and slide it over.
I don't know specifically of any car rack that would work, but there is an adapter you can buy for bikes without a top frame post. It's an expanding metal tube that you attach to the seat post and the fork stem, and it allows for mounting of step thru bikes onto traditional bike racks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ELSSZE
Oh totally man. I use the Malone Stax Pro 2. I got it on sale at a Dunham's back when I first got my kayaks so it wasn't as much as it is on Amazon. But it's definitely worth the money.
I mostly use it around town but once or twice a year, I go on a five hour trip to Virginia and get up to highway speeds with no problems.
Here's a couple more pics. 1 2
I carried my 17 foot Grumman on my 2003 Elantra all the time.
I did it by using split foam pipe insulation the length of the gunnels --this quiets down paddle on boat noise a lot. Then I installed 4 sturdy wire loops -- 2 front and 2 back to structural elements under the bumper. I had two ropes to the canoe front and back with big ass clips on them. the back ropes were fixed length, I would clip them on and then tie off the front ropes using the same type of big hardware store clip. -- then I would slip a ratchet strap through the open back doors and tighten that down around the boat.
This could be done with the foam blocks that they sell for car top canoe toteing also.
I also picked up two of these Allen Sports Tension Bar Bicycle Cross-Bar Adaptor at $16.96 a piece for the bikes without crossbars.
They worked very well and required zero effort to put them on or take off. There's a big spring inside that comes under tension when you stretch them in order to hook the seat post, which holds them securely.
Super simple. Takes less then 20 seconds to put them on or off.
I have a saris bones rack and I read on some forums that the hatch huggers work perfectly.
http://www.amazon.com/Saris-Hatch-Huggers-Trunk-Mount/dp/B000BT6Q6M
Haven't gotten around to getting them though since the weather has been shitty.
I like the look of the Yakima fairing the best, although I don't use mine (I have the Yakima whispbar). I don't think it would be an issue to use a Yakima fairing on Thule setup and I highly doubt anyone would ridicule you for it or even notice for that matter.
Fitment with a moonroof also shouldn't be an issue as the fairing rests on the area between the windshield and moonroof.
Yakima's New Universal Fairing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171A6KRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Yf.qxbGV0ZA58
Sunlite Fork Mount Bike Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JdgKAbGCS2C36
Yes - I have a 987 Cayman with the RockBros one-bike version from Amazon. It has been great so far! I have a bunch of pictures but they aren't on the interwebs yet.
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It has withstood 70+ mph speeds while raining so I'm highly confident in it. I'm pretty sure a single one of the suction cups could hold the bike and there are 3 of them below the quick-release. Still, I don't do any aggressive cornering with a bike connected.
Actually, this looks promising, as there are replacement skewers for it.
There are plenty of brands at different price points that do the same thing. I like the ones with a locking QR
In my old S10, I molly bolted 3 of those fork mounts to a 2x6 that fit into the molded shelf cutouts in the bedliner. I then used a ratchet strap thru the back wheels to tie them down to the bed. This was plenty good to keep them locked down on bumpy mountain dirt roads.
You could probably fit 4 if you staggered the mounts front to back a bit, and mounted them at an angle, so the bars are twisted a bit and not all up against each other.
Bikes you are asking is a bread-and-butter bike @ any LBS. I think you should visit your favorite LBS.
My current "go-to" bike is Momentum bikes (aka Giant.) It's designed for urban/suburban use, relatively inexpensive, and quite useful. Any LBS that sells Giant should be able to get one for you.
http://www.momentum-biking.com/us
http://www.bikerumor.com/2015/05/06/giants-spinoff-brand-momentum-wants-you-to-move-happy-with-their-new-cruiser-bikes/
If money/budget is not an issue -
http://www.rivbike.com/Rivendell-Atlantis-p/f-atlantis.htm
> Do I need anything extra if I want to mount the bike onto a car or a bus?
If the bike is step-through, you'd need a cross bar.
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar/dp/B000ELSSZE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458854492&sr=8-1&keywords=Adjustable+Bike+Frame+Adapter
Lots of cheap options on Amazon. If you don't want the bar you can get a couple of these t-nuts that fit inside the track and screw the fork mount into that for an out of the way semi permanent options.
Sunlite Fork Mount Bike Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2dOwzbNNVRVQF
1018 Steel T-Slot Nut, Black Oxide Finish, Grade 5, Tapped Through, 3/8"-16 Threads, 5/8" Height, 9/16" Slot Depth, Made in US (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SWGLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IgOwzbJSKR2CC
I was seeing the ones that look like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01ACE5IQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_wQqVAbKAJB2AA
But I do see the ones you're talking about that have a tube.
These Allen racks are pretty decent for the price. We used the 3 bike version on my wife's car for a while and it worked well. Eventually we upgraded to a 5 bike Thule rack when my wife got a new car with a 2" receiver. The Thule is nicer, but also more expensive. If you are set at the $150 price range the Allen rack is a good option. If you have a 2" receiver I would recommend going with the 4 or 5 bike version just to give you more room on the rack. The 3 bike version is a bit cramped with 3 bikes but it does work. With this hanging style rack you will probably need the cross bar adapters for full suspension bikes. Or any bike that does not have a straight top tube. Any brand will work but I linked the Allen one below since it is only $15. Also we used a bungee cord to keep the bikes from swinging.
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Deluxe-3-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B001M4KXDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-2&keywords=hitch+bike+rack
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Deluxe-4-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B001PLG7UK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-1&keywords=hitch+bike+rack
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Deluxe-5-Bike-2-Inch-Receiver/dp/B001M4H2Q8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-6&keywords=hitch+bike+rack
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tension-Bicycle-Cross-Bar-Adaptor/dp/B000ELSSZE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1342733293&sr=8-3&keywords=hitch+bike+rack
You’ll have to get an adapter. Thule and Yakima sell them.
yakima - Universal MightyMount, Mount for Factory or Aerodynamic Car Rack System (Set of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012SHLVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Ud1Db5RYK9Y5
I would advise against a roof rack for bikes though. Pain in the ass to use and everyone who’s had one runs into their garage or something else eventually destroying their bikes.
get to the gym and start doing shoulder presses!!
depends on the person, and what vehicle. if you can do it on the grass, you won't scratch the kayak too much if you prop up one end on the vehicle and then lift the back up.
watch out for windy days though...yikes, that will mess you up.
there are roof loaders of different types that would help:
https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Rack-Universal-Loader-Kayaks/dp/B00C2Q3I72
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Tuff-OTF-01CR-Canoe-Loader/dp/B06X8ZK9W7
Ya I got this one, but also got the hatch hagger straps like:
https://www.amazon.com/Saris-Hatch-Huggers-Trunk-Mount/dp/B000BT6Q6M
I got this for my Specialized Camber and it works great. I like how it locks with a quick clamp vs just a spring loaded mechanism like some of the other brands. Plus it is a bit cheaper than the Yakima.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011FWLFU/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1