Best bike cassettes & freewheels according to redditors
We found 189 Reddit comments discussing the best bike cassettes & freewheels. We ranked the 106 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 189 Reddit comments discussing the best bike cassettes & freewheels. We ranked the 106 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
The picture is of a freehub, not a cassette.
You can easily make that a single speed, but not a fixed gear.
Simply get a single cog and spacer kit designed for cassette wheels.
http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413139008&sr=1-3&keywords=single+speed+conversion+kit
You will need to use a chain tensioner, use your existing rear derailleur as a chain tensioner, or have horizontal-enough dropouts to be able to move your rear axle enough to tension your (shortened) chain.
The gears on the back wheel are the cassette (the gears in the front are the chain rings).
A cassette with a wide range of gears has a very small gear (fast but harder to turn) and a very big gear (slow but easy to get up hills). In 9 speed cassettes, a wide range would be 11 teeth through 36 teeth. For example, this one.
If you're struggling with hills, a cassette with a larger gear will make it easier to make it up the hills. Road bikes usually have a smaller range of gears vs. hybrids or mountain bikes ... so to answer your question, no, a road bike probably won't help with getting over hills more easily. Also, a new cassette, at about $25, is easier on your budget. It will require some specialty tools to install so it might make sense to have your local bike shop install it for you (probably another $25).
No it won't work... why not just get a 10 speed cassette with the gearing you're looking for?
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-PG-1070-10-Speed-Cassette-11-32T/dp/B008JHQMZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409674744&sr=8-1&keywords=11-32+cassette+10+speed
I don't know why you'd worry about replacing it as the exact part unless its a collector. From what I'm seeing it seems like its unlikely. Freewheels are a consumable part that are going to need replacing over time, only the most anal collectors care about them matching exactly.
For an easy swap, just replace it with a 6spd freewheel. Any shop that thinks that part is hard to find wouldn't have my business for long. It's a direct swap with maybe a little adjustment of the limit screws. The old 600 Arabesque derailleur should handle 28t fine.
You could get a freewheel like this [Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel (14-34T Mega 7 Speed)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLNOKC). There's usually a big step between gears 1 and 2, but singular to what you have now. Why bigger is usually on 10+ speed bikes which isn't worth the upgrade in your case.
I guess that would work, but the only problem is eventually you'll be running a nasty chainline. I only paid $15 for the cog and spacers plus I have some replacement cogs (from old cassettes) for when stuff wears out. Otherwise I'll happily pay the $15 again.
Here's: the cog/spacer kit I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_gEjTj3QBqwcC3
I'm not a mechanic, but you probably just need a new freewheel
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Single-Bicycle-Freewheel-Sprocket/dp/B001GSSIIG
And a tool to take the old one off and put the new one on
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Bikes/dp/B000AO9S68
it sounds like the pawls aren't engaging properly, probably rusty and/or gunky inside the freewheel.
Your freewheel is broken, you need a new one like: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-7Spd-14-28T-Freewheel/dp/B003B8JYPU/
If you want to do the repair yourself you're going to also need a freewheel tool like: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Freewheels/dp/B001B6RGXG
And some grease when you thread the new one onto the wheel.
Here's a good guide on how to do that: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-removal-and-installation
The key compatibility items:
Edit: Check the specifics (especially the rear spacing) but this wheel might be what you need.
If you get that wheel you will still need the freewheel, which should spin right on, as well as a tire (you have the specs), a tube, and don't forget the rim strip.
6 speed cassette
$100 on Amazon. So the same price then. It ordered it a while back just before the NX was announced so I may be mixing it up with the GX, this was before I purchased the wheels so I had not yet decided on the hubs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076M2RDF3/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3652ZBQ53FUEE
You're probably going to want a bigger battery.
With a 52v 17.5Ah battery, you would need to average around 21wh/mi of energy consumption over the course of your commute, to arrive back home right at a dead battery.
> Math: 52v x 17.5Ah = 910wh.
> 910wh / 42mi = 21.67wh/mi
Every bike and riding condition is different, but on average, an ebike will consume somewhere in the neighborhood of 20wh/mi to maintain 20mph on mostly level ground. You've got knobby tires, 1000ft of climbing mixed into the route, and you're trying to hit a faster average speed. On top of that, you don't want to be fully draining your battery every day, for a variety of reasons.
I'm just ballparking it, but I'd say that you probably want a 48v 27Ah / 52v 25Ah battery at the smallest, unless you're planning to put a lot of work into the pedals yourself.
Edit: Regarding the cassette, why stop at 36t? :D
I am about to do this, and was considering this little spacer and cog kit.
I'm curious if anyone can endorse this as a decent option, suggest a different kit, or suggest buying spacers and a cog separately.
I haven't seen something quite like this and am open to ideas.
i think this would not need a new derailleur, although you may need a new chain (and it's a good idea to change chain and freewheel together anyway).
changing a freewheel is a little tricky - look for videos on youtube (search for something like "change freewheel without chainwhip"). fit the new chain to the right length (don't just copy the old length - see here).
there's not much difference in feel between a larger rear sprocket and a smaller front one if the ratio is the same. it does feel slightly different (i am not sure why, but one or the other feels slightly smoother, i think just from the different vibrations you get as the chain moves over the different size gears). but in general you can trust the maths.
[edit: deleted a second option, as it was a cassette, not a freewheel]
Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.
Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.
With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.
As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.
All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.
Rear derailleur - $20
Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring
Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear
Downtube shifters - $14
Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.
If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.
A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks
[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50
9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35
Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11
allen wrenches $11
None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.
This Shimano 6sp freewheel cluster is a good option for your driveline in terms of durability and shift quality. No real need to go to 7sp as the incremental difference isn't worth the added strain on the rear axle (7sp freewheels place extra loads on the rear hub/axle assemby).
I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.
FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6
UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR
Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ
KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M
Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI
Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI
Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS
XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I
RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW
​
Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette
SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/
JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO
This might work for you. Its smallest gear is 13t but does have a 28 T gear. They make a 14-34T as well.
Shimano Tourney 7-Speed Freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IORDH0?pc_redir=1411016731&robot_redir=1
If the chain was slipping, the derailleur probably needed an adjustment. The freewheel does not look worn to me
I'm actually doing the same thing. I just built a new road bike and have some parts left so I will be building a budget single speed. I have a carbon frame, mavic wheels with 8,9,10 gear hub (will add this http://amzn.to/1M078HZ). I will also be getting this crankset http://amzn.to/1UCmyp1, this cheap brake setup http://amzn.to/1MSSi0I, some chain and a shorter stem since the frame is pretty large. Most likely will paint everything black with a gold chain. Will be super light since the frameset is carbon.
>When I took it in for servicing they slapped a new chain on it, that was just last week so I'd assume that's good.
Absolutely. In fact, that fits with my freewheel theory: chains and the gears wear out together, especially as the chain gets more worn. A new chain and worn cassette can result in the skipping you described. Some bike shops insist on changing both at the same time, just in case.
> I've done chain replacements before so I know how to do that too. What information do I need to make sure I get a cassette/freewheel part that fits my bike?
If the freewheel is original, I bet it's this one. Any 7 speed freewheel will work, but it's easiest if you match the model with what you have so the great ratios are the same, you only need one tool, and the chain can stay the same length. The model should be printed on it somewhere.
Before you spend money on a cassette, it's worth making sure it's not a gear indexing issue either. That's free, just a quick twist of the inline adjuster.
I don't have answers to all of your questions, but I recently put on the BBS02, and it is great. I think you will be happy with a Nuvinci, from what I've read. I put on a different cassette on the back wheel and I easily go 25mph. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A8RPUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can go up hills without pedaling, probably 12 to 14 mph.
I can get 20 miles on 6.5 Ah. (was 10 Ah 3 years ago) I have a Ping battery and plan on upgrading to 15 Ah. This should easily give me a 40 mile range. I use my battery on the rear tire.
http://www.pingbattery.com/
First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.
Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!
Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?
You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.
If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.
One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.
Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.
If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.
You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.
Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.
However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.
Model number super duper won't matter. but an 11-34 9 speed hyperglide cassette would be what you're looking for.
typing those words into amazon reveals...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAPEX9I?keywords=11-34%209%20speed%20cassette&qid=1452415502&ref_=sr_1_2&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-2
which is the stupid place to buy bike parts, if you like saving money. A bike shop could make you that deal. that's 3 dollars off.
On the other hand, at about 19 dollars off...
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-alivio-hg400-9-speed-mtb-cassette/rp-prod119945
Oh look, the biggest online bike retailer in Britain. They have shockingly low shipping rates to the US.
I generally spend over $100 dollars there, because then the shipping usually jumps from very little, to totally free.
Sunrace FTW again. They have a 11-50 12 speed cassette that uses the standard hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-12-speed-cassette-freewheel-extender/dp/B076M2RDF3
Ok interesting. Considering your current high gear of 14 tooth and 7 speed configuration, you probably have a freewheel system on your rear wheel, as opposed to a cassette, two different ways of mounting the rear cogs. You probably won't be able to get an 11 tooth cog that some have suggested on your wheels as it is. There are 7-speed freewheels with a 13 tooth high cog, which could give you almost 8% more top end if you need it, though, and they aren't too expensive. Those freewheels need to be replaced every so often, maybe swap it in next time you replace the chain. Swapping out the front chainring is possibly an option, but it is more complicated because of a lot of factors, and possibly not really a practical option for you without replacing a lot of stuff. (RD Chain Wrap Capacticy, Chain Length, Crank BCD, FD Max capacity and position, ask your bike shop)
I think that if you are really enjoying the fun and utility of riding, you could be well served by eventually buying a nicer bike. You will gain a significant amount of speed from a bike that is a little lighter and more efficient with some better quality parts, and ultimately for less money than trying to upgrade a lot of things on yours. The current sweet spot imo for price to performance ratio for a general purpose bike is around the $650-$800 hybrid range, with 9x2 or 9x3 gearing and probably disc brakes. You can probably eventually pick one up used for 60% new price if you keep an eye on local classifieds.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG41-Hyperglide-Cassette-11-28T/dp/B005DTWLGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375131136&sr=8-2&keywords=7-speed+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Chain-Whip-Inch/dp/B00165FMLU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375131184&sr=1-1&keywords=chain+whip
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-FR-5G-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B000R9ACZC/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375131239&sr=1-1&keywords=shimano+cassette+tool
Swap this in using these tools and call it a day.
That will take you from a 3.69 top gear to 4.36. 18% increase at the top.
Here is an 11-28. You won't be able to find anything much fancier without lookin at NOS parts.
If you want the HG50, it'll probably be a little lighter and perhaps shift slightly smoother.
I have a cheap single speed commuter bike, not too different from that one. The generic freewheel it came with was all sorts of awful. Lots of ticking/clicking and really nasty feeling bearings. Not sure if yours is the same. I swapped it for a Shimano one which made a huge difference. You need a special tool to get the old one off or you can take it to a shop for a really quick swap.
Chain tensioners are also really nice to have to dial in your chain tension. Not necessary at all but nice for the peace of mind. Something like these.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU7c0_G29MA
basically the hub is like one of these.
then i screw a free wheel on to that, that has an open end like this as opposed to this. I then get an old school metal bottom bracket cup which has the same threads as the free wheel. I screw that into the freewheel and then the next free wheel on to that extension piece (the bb cup).
There is not a lot of driveline loss unless you really tighten the chain, than you really feel it. my chain tensioner (standard old road bike part) was keeping the chain way too tight.
As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.
I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.
and you need this to get it off.
There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.
I'm thinking this is the part I need to replace. This is what's kind of wobbly: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=8GBDM6T90RO6&coliid=I3LLVFXCWL2V5T
Interesting challenge. If I had to narrow it down to one ride at that price, it’s going to come down to both how it’s set up at purchase, and how potentially upgradeable it is.
That being said, after a bit of shopping, this is my pick, at the moment:
Schwinn Volare 1400 Road Bike, 700c/28 inch wheel size, red, Fitness Bicycle, 53cm/Medium Frame Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5XTB94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CMtXCbVDDFV54
It’s “near” the setup you’d likely eventually want. 2x up front, pretty standard 100/130 spacing for the wheels, brifter-style levers, 1 1/8 threadless forks, comes with “decent for the price” Tourney stuff for both derailleurs and the brake/shifter levers, quick releases. It’s also pretty light, at I think 25 pounds or something. The cheap Schwinns usually use pretty standard sized, and therefore easily upgradable, bottom brackets, things like that.
I’d use the rest of the $300 to replace the freewheel to something like this:
DNP Epoch Freewheel 7spd 11-28 Nickel Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8RPUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4ZtXCbXVFYWQK
That might get you a bit closer to a more fancy road bike’s gearing, with the 11t high gear. Past that, when you had the cash, I’m sure a change of tires, brake pads, a different seat, maybe a cheap replacement free hub wheelset would make quite a difference. Maybe a bigger chain ring. I think those Tourney front derailleurs can handle 50t.
I’m sure most people would say not to upgrade a $266 bike. But all of that doesn’t add up to much more, especially since so many are basically maintenance/wear parts anyway.
I can’t say I wouldn’t pick something else tomorrow. But if I had to put one in the cart right now for that price, that’s the best I can do.
I found infos about an older version of that Bike:
Question: Do I need to go with a original Shimano Freewheel?
Apart from getting a quote from a shop my plan of action is:
The cheap wal mart bikes can be okay as long as you aren't looking to ride offroad, and replace the shifters/rear mechanicals with proper parts.
That doesn't meant spending a ton of money, the older 7 speed shimano freewheels can be found on Amazon for $15 or so, and so can the derailleurs.
The problem with the freewheels on the walmart bikes is you often see they'll be "slick shift by DNP" freewheels which have a reputation for lasting for about 50 miles then dying. I think I've read they're also made from old shimano tooling, which is worn out so they never shift right no matter how much you adjust them.
Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.
I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.
29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)
Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.
Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B
9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH
SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94
SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41
KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T
So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.
Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Speed-Cassette-CS-HG20-7-Brown/dp/B007Y5HFWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525833920&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+HG20+7-Speed+Cassette
Well, with those parameters, I'd consider building a single speed for your first build. Buy a freewheel, but use a salvaged crank, bb, chainring, handlebars, frame and whatever brake style the frame you're using is set up for: cantilever, caliper, v.
Here's an inexpensive 1/8" freewheel; that thicker size will mean that you'll use bmx-sized chains and chainring, rather than a thinner 9 or 10 speed chain. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/
That's way easier than messing with deraillers and cogsets on your first build. And when you're done, you don't have a fixie, but a bike with brakes.
Check out my post.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/chpp6t/first_build_first_ride_tsdz2/
Smooth shifting with new:
SHIMANO MF-TZ21 14-28 Teeth 7 Speed Freewheel
KMC X8.99 Bicycle Chain (1/2 x 3/32-Inch, 116L, Silver)
Getting over 60+ miles using gears first, 75% tour mode, 25% Speed/Turbo mode.
​
Kickstand: FORTOP Bike Support Bicycle Kickstand Adjustable Aluminum Alloy for 22" 24" 26" 28" Mountain Bike/Road Bicycle/BMX/MTB/City Commuter Bike/Kids Bike/Sports Bike/Adult Bike/700 Road Bike
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DTWRUE?pc_redir=1413174400&robot_redir=1
18 bones for an entirely new cassette
Hey guys I am looking for input on my current build. Tried to post earlier but it got removed without telling me why.
I originally bought the basic parts in fall of 2018 which included:
19" GT Agressor Pro from Dick's Sporting - $295
27.5" Conversion Kit 35MPH from LeafBike.com - $508.13
52v 14s9p-pf 25.7AH Triangle Battery Pack from EM3ev.com - $827.4
Rear Cargo Rack from Amazon - $25.99
SKS Velo Snap-on Fenders from Amazon - $21.65
BikeHand Toolkit from Amazon - $49.99
Shimano HG41 from Amazon - $16.70
Torque Arm from Amazon - $16.50
Park fr52 from REI - $7.15
Tire Liner from REI - $17
Tubes from Walmart - $20
Total $1825.51
Hot Damn! Never actually did the math that is quite a bit more than i thought it cost, I'm a little embarrassed I've been telling people that it cost around $1300 lol boy the shipping and tax just kills you!
Anyways it all arrived without issue (Thank goodness) and I put it together (minus the pedal assist due to a crank removal fiasco) with some difficulty as a number of things required modification to work. That rear wheel is an absolute biatch to install. I have had an absolute blast with it both on and off road since then. Only major gripe is with the controller, hella loud and super weak regen breaking.
Just recently decided to do some additional tweaking with the bike. Went on another spending spree over at Aliexpress. Ended up buying the following parts:
Pedals - $21.45
Longer Handlebar - $8.80
External Bearing Bottom Bracket and Cranks - 32.66
Four Pairs of Brake Pads - 5.29
3-Button switch - $27.49
Handlebar Grips - $2.66
Torque Arm - $8.35
Left hand thumb Throttle - $5.67
Lights DC 12v-48v - 20.89
42 tooth Chain ring - 17.60
Pannier - 30.51
1xSchwalbe MTB 27.5 2.25 - 50
Total $231.44
Already installed new bottom bracket and pedal assist (with some modification lol) and its amazing!
I am about to start getting into the electronics so i figured i would ask for advice before i solder everything up in case you guys come up with a better way to do things.
Anywho I am getting rid of those handle grips with the twist throttle in favor of a left handed throttle, this will allow me to shift on the rear cassette a lot easier. Then its on to replacing the super cheap switch (cruise, regen, reverse) with the Aliexpress switch (cruise, horn, lights, gonna short regen for always on) and add lights. Considering adding another on/off point for security but cant think of a great way to do that... Right now i have the BMS on/off at the battery itself (momentary switch) and the power on the LCD display itself.
Also anyone have a line on a cheap controller with strong regen breaking and sin wave fets? I see the ebikes.ca but looks like that requires cycle analyst v3 for pedal assist which doesnt seem to display information nicely plus itll cost around 265 for both...
It will work if you install a derailleur extender. You can get both the cassette and extender as a package via Amazon.
I have a hybrid bike with the exact same 7 speed freewheel and chainring, last week the freewheel went bad so I got this one the bike had the same tires as your's and I went with 700 x 30 tires and the bike is a bit faster but not as good as a road bike. Why not buy a used road bike as it's going to be far lighter than the wife's bike.
I would say to switch to an 11-42 cassette. I think they include a longer b-screw, but if not, you may need a goat link.
Total is about $70.
To be honest, I'm not really sure what a chain tensioner is. I just know the guy in the video was referring to one.
The conversion kit I saw was this: http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405727927&sr=8-1&keywords=flip+flop+hub
...which I'm only now realizing does not convert in the direction that I'm talking about or want.
The frame set is an older Fuji. I tried to track down the year, but couldn't get the model/serial to line up, so I think it's anywhere between mid to late 90s to mid 2000s (it has the older logo).
It has the fork, and I THINK a headset... though I'm not sure. Is that what goes on top of the handlebars, or under them?
Hey just getting back into biking after maybe 4 years of not touching it. I would like to get a flipflop hub so i can coast and also a rear and front brake. I have none of that equipment to do so. I also want to re-tape the bars too. What should I get? How do I order the brake set? What do you recommend? Someone said tektro but I was having a hard time finding out which ones i should get and what other things I needed to get for them. Here is my bike:
https://www.cyclesmithy.com/products/2018-fuji-track
https://imgur.com/a/zsah4JE
Edit: Like would I buy this to make it free wheel? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=flip%2Bflop%2Bhub&qid=1562768778&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1
> chain, cassette, one-up and derailleur cable
Rough numbers:
Chain is about $30.
Cassette, about $100
One up, $100
derailleur cable and housing, $30
That's roughly $260 in parts.
$40 in labor makes about $300.
What was the explanation for the extra $200?
I'm going to run this el cheapo I found on Amazon and see how it works out.
ZTTO CSMXXL10 Speed 11-42T Wide Ratio MTB Mountain Bike Bicycle Part Cassette Sprocket with Extended B-Screw and 3mm Allen Key https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD53NYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOBgAbGAZTGJ1
Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg
So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)
The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.
As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?
Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).
Thanks again for your help so far!
Take the back wheel off and spin the freewheel (the group of cogs) if they feel gritty are hard to spin, you can replace them...they should still click when they spin and lock with the wheel when spun in on direction, but if they dont feel particularly smooth, abouth $25 will get you the freewheel and the tool to replace it.
Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?
Am I on the right track with these setups below?
Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear
Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette
I believe it! My bike is from the mid-1990s. I'm not even sure the one I found will work: http://www.amazon.com/DNP-Epoch-Freewheel-Nickel-Plated/dp/B007A8RPUS It says "HG Shimano, index compatible" which sounds right. (HG being 'Hyperglide' which was new at the time.)
Fortunately a friend at work is really into cycling and is helping me. I didn't buy this bike used, I've just had it that long. :)
As far as I know you can do this 2 ways: get a new rear hub which is a single speed or a flip flop hub which has one side for single gear use and one side for fixed gear use, or you can one of those single gear cogs that you mount on to an existing cassette hub it's a converter sort of thing.
Now, there's no need to get a completely new rear wheel, but if you're re-using the rim, you'll have to take it apart to mount a new hub. It's simpler to just get a rim with a single gear hub already installed. Or get the previously mentioned adapter for your cassette.
Overall, I would say it's easier (not cheaper) to get a wheel that's made for single speed use. Also, keep in mind the spacing of your rear-drop outs as different speeds often have different sizes of dropout.
largest I could find on ebay NOS. By no means affordable.
If the shifting is friction (i. e. doesn't click for each cog), you can replace the rear wheel with anything 6 or 7 speeds, check out craigslist and you can probably get a decent old wheel with freewheel for about 20~30 usd.
Upon further reading it seems that freewheels have a standard ISO threading, therefore, again, if you're ok with friction shifting, you can use any old freewheel, even a new one. Not completely sure about the spacing and/or overall width though, so, give it a try.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-7-Speed-Tourney-Freewheel-Replacement/dp/B003B8JYPU?psc=1
it uses this in the rear so i guess its a freewheel?
Haha, yeah I took the advice on replacing the freewheel seriously just in case.
Thanks for the knowledge. I haven't considered this replacement up to now. I might give it a shot to keep the bike crisp and functional as well as getting my mechanic skills up with the experience.
Here is a follow up question, would a 7 speed like this fit or would the extra gear take up too much space?
I have this on my commuter and it's solid. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ20-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71QI
So now I feel like a jerk because I know they USED to, but I can't find it. Maybe they stopped making it. Whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_guEJBb3S7NVTP
This should work for you; or something similar. I like it because you can align your sprocket and chainring so there's no rub or noise from lateral play. Will take some finesse to get completely silent.
I'm no expert, but a lot of that price will depend on what kind of cog set and chain you're getting!
You need to make sure it's the right kind/size of chain for the job (OCB can help with that too as they offer them for sale), but chains for not-super-fancy-racing-bikes range from $12-$50 retail (usually around the lower end of that range, say $15-25 being fairly typical).
What set of cogs you get will depend as well on what quality and range of gears you want and what's compatible. For my old bike's freewheel (freewheels are cogs that come as one complete piece vs modern cogs stacked on a cassette - freewheels are generally only seen on old 70's and 80's era bikes), I paid a little under $20 but if you're getting a high end cassette, you can easily spend $100. More basic ones run say $25-$60 on average (ala https://www.mec.ca/en/products/cycling/bike-components/drive-train/cassettes-and-freewheels/c/828).
Shop time at OCB is $20/hr. If it's your first time doing it and you need a lot of help, you're probably looking at an hour (if experienced should be more like 15-20 mins, though maybe longer if you're changing things vs straight replacing things and need to tweak your shifting to match). So $20 plus let's say you snag a $15 chain plus $30 cassette (cogs) after tax then you're looking around $65-ish at OCB? So say $45-70 depending on what you want/need/how long it takes you but something in that ballpark for non-fancy things. So $80 to get a shop to do it sounds fair if they're including parts.
https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-MF-TZ21-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71S6/
Lots of under $25 options.
Yes. Higher top gears for faster speeds. I definitely shift using the front too, but only once. It was set on the hardest gear, the front that is, and never changed again. For the riding I've been doing, on and off road, I've never needed to adjust the front. Anything less than the hardest gear, is not nearly hard enough to pedal.
 
Cassette vs freewheel. That was valuable information dude! That's the kind of shit I miss easily. Thank you! I'm going to attach an image of my existing cassette/freewheel and perhaps you can tell exactly what it is. I watched a few videos, and all of them require disassembly to tell what kind it is. Both types look very similar.. at least to me they do. Images: https://imgur.com/a/gy81ho7
 
I'm seeing a bunch of tires for sale, but some of them are "foldable" and others aren't. Does that simple mean it isn't a slick? Or I can fold it for packing?
 
I purchased my bike from a couple of scumbags who own a store in Montreal. They definitely took advantage of the fact that I didn't know much about bikes. Ugh.
 
What do you think of this: https://www.probikekit.ca/bicycle-tyres/vittoria-peyote-folding-mtb-tyre/11436100.html It is the best deal I can find right now, half price. Or this: https://www.sportchek.ca/categories/shop-by-sport/cycling/bike-parts/bike-tires-tubes/product/schwalbe-nobby-nic-275-foldable-tire-332007671.html#332007671=332007683 If I look hard enough, seems like I can find a tire under $40CAD, which isn't bad. Just not sure about the quality. I'm not a hardcore biking, but during season, I do bike almost every single day. So..
 
Based on this: https://www.cycosports.be/en/product/thv047036/ I currently have a 7 gear freewheel, which is pretty much what I'm stuck with because of the existing gear shifting system, right? Which I guess kind of makes life easier having less options.
 
When looking at freewheels, is the "teeth" the "gear ratio"? Or are they different? Is this something I need to pay attention to, or will any 7 speed work? Like this, it has a 14-28 teeth: https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-MF-TZ21-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541251634&sr=8-1&keywords=7+speed+freewheel But my existing one has a 13-34 ratio.. what does that mean?
 
As for the inner tube.. do I just get something that matches the tire? Will the specs be as easy as 27.5x2.10? Like this: https://www.canadabicycleparts.com/evo-enduro-1-35-1-45mm-tube-10704
OK this is slightly confused. How many cogs are on your freewheel cluster?
I'm guessing 5, making your bike a 10 speed using the two chainrings at the front (2x5). This freewheel would usually be replaced with a similar cluster (5 cog) although you could go 6 without too many issues, like this Shimano unit although best to check if your rear derailleur can handle 28t.
If you can spend a little more I would recommend a higher range cassette for the 8 spd setup. I ran a cassette with a very similar range to the one your a looking to purchase and always felt like I didn't have a low enough gear.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KZ1RD5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z1X3Bb1FFXVP7
That cassette has a wider range and might be more comfortable if you are staying 8 spd.
I'm assuming you removed a threaded on 5-cog freewheel from the rear wheel and then threaded on a single cog freewheel. I am assuming you did not remove a cassette and place a single cog and a stack of spacers on a freehub for this conversion. Is that correct?
- Yes and I replaced it with a Shimano single speed thread on freewheel: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542405280&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+single+speed+freewheel
I haven't put on axle nuts yet, I am thinking about going that route with a new solid spindle
Yeah it's Shimano.
I'm looking at this:
https://www.ebay.com/c/1965475025 - this is the crankset on it now
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y5HFWU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_FItFDb5Z2CX4W
And I gotta figure out a chain to get. These two will work?
Here's a wheel. It has a quick release axle, but will work well.
You could either buy this tool to remove the freewheel (gears) and switch them to the new wheel or you could buy a new freewheel set.
Best bet for a good 1x10 cassette would be this sunrace 11-42 cassette, which will give your a similar range to a 1x11 without needing to buy a new wheel or hub, just the cassette and chain, so you'll be able to come out under $100. Keep in mind, however, that you'll need a long cage derailleur for this, if you're not sure about yours google the model number and you should be able to find out.
If you have horizontal dropouts, it's actually pretty easy. Basically the issue is taking up slack in the chain. There exists some products you can use if you have standard dropouts. An eccentric bottom bracket would be your best bet. Problem Solvers makes a chain tensioner you can put on your dérailleur hanger if you can't do the eccentric be.
Eccentric bottom bracket - this one is for bb30, I think you can get one for square taper style, too.. Phil wood makes one. Ask your lbs.
Chain Tensioner
You need to replace the cassette with a single sprocket.
You'd need to remove your derailleurs.
You would need to either replace your crank to a suitable one, or you can just take off all but one of the chain rings without too much issue.
Remember to support your local bike shop. They can get set up single speed much easier than on your own.
edit: yeah, i read it wrong. yeah it's not easy.