Best bike chains according to redditors
We found 154 Reddit comments discussing the best bike chains. We ranked the 77 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 154 Reddit comments discussing the best bike chains. We ranked the 77 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Looks like the end of a Shimano chain pin. It is garbage that was likely just stuck in your frame somewhere. When installing a new chain without a "missing" or "quick" link, one pushes a special pin through to connect two links and then breaks off the extra. That is the extra part that is broken off and discarded.
FIFTY FIVE DOLLARS for a dummy hub!?!?!? That's a pretty impressive markup for adding some green anodized aluminum and a logo. Some people will buy anything.
A Pedro's Chain Keeper does exactly the same thing for about 12 bucks, and will probably last your lifetime ... even if you clean your chain several times a day.
You might want to invest in these. They might not be too pretty, but they give perfect chain tension and alignment.
Just ordered it. soooo ugly. Might not use.
You will need this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-Mountain-Bicycle-Derailleur/dp/B00OJZQPDI
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS
And some tools or a local bike shop to put it all together.
Also, clean your bike!
I go with the cheapest KMC 10 speed chain. $26.
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M
Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:
Gold:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNARIE/ref=pd_sim_468_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VG17X4WDDHGAZPBRM1GF
If you don't have one already, you'll need a chain rivet tool to remove/reinstall the chains. Here is an inexpensive example from Amazon. You can get even cheaper ones at Walmart, if I remember correctly. Park Tool is a pretty solid brand, though and name-brand chain tools can certainly get much more expensive.
And a video on how to use it.
I've used Kmart/Walmart chains on 10-speed bikes before and they've worked OK. I wouldn't put one on my fancy road bike, but that's another story. You can also order higher-quality, but still cheap, chains online. Example.
I second the WD-40 soaking. If the chains are greasy, gasoline works as a cheap solvent (just be careful!). Most chains that just have surface rust can be rescued.
Best luck on the project bikes, I'm sure the kids will be thrilled!
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Chain-Tension-Adjuster-Black/dp/B001GPJY1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466108843&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+tensioner
It's a chain keeper. Not sure who made that specific one (looks like Park Tool blue, but who knows), but here's Pedro's Chain Keeper.
Edit: Appears to be a Morgan Blue Chain Keeper
Here's the fanciest chain Shimano makes for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, and it's under $20 with free shipping from the Walmart of the web: https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ICNHG71116I-Shimano-CN-HG71-8-Speed/dp/B00N3R30WC/
Procrastination is a disease, and I am sick.
$1580 total, not even trying to bargin shop. Cog, lockring,
seatpost(nope, frame comes with), brake and housing and cable, we'll be generous and call it $1700Bargain!
if you take it to a bike shop they should be able to replace the chainring and sprocket and put a chain on.
If you want to do it yourself you'll need to following:
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SG-3C40-Nexus-Sprocket-23T/dp/B007FOVIDW
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS
For the chainring you should measure the BCD, directions here: https://wickwerks.com/bolt-circle-diameter-bcd/ This chainring works for 110BCD or 130BCD: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-BMX-Singlespeed-Fixie-Chainring/dp/B003J7ZP9W
The length of chain you need is determined generally by looping it through the largest front and back chain rings, then adding 2 links. Usually a chain is longer than it needs to be. If you don't shorten it the bike will shift poorly.
Also that chain will not work for that bike, its a single speed chain for cruiser bikes and you need a 10 speed chain. Dont buy that shitty of parts for a bike that nice, you want either SRAM or Shimano, other companies make 10 speed chain but they will be more money. The bike came with an Ultegra 10 speed chain, both of these are a step down but not that much.
OK, so you've got a Shimano TX71 crank up front. That's pretty low-end, and I don't think the rings are replaceable, so if they're worn out you'll need a new crankset.
The rear set of gears is called a "cassette" (in your case, older bikes had freewheels). It's a 7 speed Sun Race 11-32.
The chain is chain...no big deal on that as long as it matches your cassette. 7 speed chain should be used with 7 speed cassettes. 8 speed chain is the exact same as 7. 7/8 are the same width, etc. 9 speed chain is narrower, weaker, and wears out faster, and it costs more than 7/8. 10 speed chain is again narrower, weaker, etc. And again for 11. Anything above 8 speeds is silly, especially on anything other than actual racing bikes. It's just more money and trouble, so please don't buy in to the marketing gimmick of 10/11 speed "upgrades", I promise you they won't actually make your ride better.
My opinion said, let's move on to replacing these worn out parts.
Let's start with the crank. You'll need some specialized tools to work on this, but they're not too expensive and a worthwhile investment. You'll need a square-taper crank puller, such as the Park CCP-22. That's needed to remove the cranks.
Next you'll need a tool to remove the bottom bracket (the bearings/spindle bit the cranks attach to. Yours is probably pretty worn out. The thing with BBs is they come in many lengths, such as 122mm, 118mm, etc. The length is determined by the crankset you use, not by your frame, so if you replace your crankset, chances are you'll need a different BB length. Also, many newer cranksets have built-in BBs, since, like I said, BB and cranks are pretty tied together. You'll need to get your old BB out, and you'll need a BB tool for that. Chances are your BB would be one compatible with the Shimano 20 tooth 'Isis' style: BBT-22. You can tell if this is the case by looking at your bike. Behind the crank you'll see a the outside edge of the bottom bracket, if it's got a bunch of small indentations like this, then it's an Isis style one.
Now you'll have the old crank and BB removed. Next you'll need to get a replacement. I'm not sure your budget, so I'll just go with some 'middle of the road' recommendations. This is what I have one some of my bikes: Race Face 22-32-44 Crankset and BB. This is a pretty good deal, since it's a fairly nice crankset AND it comes with its own BB, so you don't have to get that separate. The BB included is an outboard bearing style, which will be a bit different looking than your old one, and require another tool, as it's not compatible with the BBT-22. It requires an outboard bearing wrench like the BBT-29. Even after purchasing this extra tool, the Race Face crankset is an exceptional deal.
Alternatively, you can source out a square-taper style crankset replacement (like your old one), and if you luck out, your old BB will be in ok enough shape and be the right length. Chances are that's not the case, and you'll need to replace the BB too, and end up spending just as much as that RaceFace. The one minor issue with the Race Face one is it's slightly smaller than your stock one, and I don't know if your T30 is one of the ones with a cover over the chain, and if so, there may be a slight gap if you used a slightly smaller crank. If you don't have a chain cover, this wouldn't be an issue, and going from 48 to 44 would probably be an improvement, unless you often ride really really fast.
Next you'll need a rear cassette. Your stock cassette was an '11-32'. This means your smallest sprocket was 11 teeth and largest was 32. When combined with a 22/32/44 crankset, a cassette with 32t as the largest gear is a real 'stump puller'. The 22:32 ratio is probably MUCH lower than you'll ever use, unless you routinely climb mountains on your bike. I'd recommend something a bit 'tighter' such as 11-23 or 11-25. Unless you're REALLY fast and routinely in your largest gear in the front and smallest in the rear, going over 25MPH, I'd also suggest not getting a cassette with an 11t small gear. I'm pretty fit and very very rarely 'spin out' my fastest gear, which is 44:12 for me. 44:11 is a good bit faster a gear, but I'd guess you don't actually need that sort of gear. The choice is up to you, but I recommend these cassettes: 11-24 or 12-24 and 11-28 or 12-28. Dropping the range down from 11-32 to 12-24 means you'll shift your front gears a bit more often, and in return, you'll have a better spread of gearing options, with more usable gears and less duplicate gears. I highly doubt you use more than 44:12 and less than 22:24 ratios as it is, as those are pretty damn fast and pretty damn low gears.
You'll need a cassette tool to remove your old cassette and install the new one. FR-5 Cassette Tool, and you'll also need a chain whip: SR-1 Chain Whip.
As for the chain, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work. I recommend this one: KMC 72. Shimano chains are GARBAGE and wear out way faster than other brands. SRAM chains are ok. Wipperman are good and KMC is good.
All of these tools have videos on their use on Park's website, and are available on Amazon for reasonable prices. If you want to save a few bucks, there's some non-Park versions of said tools for cheaper. I have a Topeak brand chain whip, for instance, and it's every bit as good as Park's.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully this long post helps.
If I were you, I'd just stop now and save your money for a better bike. The Schwinn Varsity weighs 42 lbs, or about 12-18lbs over what even a generic chromoly framed 80s road bike would weigh, and given that you can pick those up pretty cheaply on craigslist, I'd trade it in and go that route.
But assuming you're already sentimentally attached to this one, despite the fact that it weighs about two full gallon milk jugs more than a bike needs to, you're going to need to start with a 1 piece to 3 piece adapter, like this American to Euro BMX adapter.
Then add a generic road double crankset in your desired length and the appropriately sized bottom bracket, and a fresh chain cut to the right size.
Other than that, it's basically a question of taking the old parts off and putting the new parts on and transferring the pedals over.
I love a quiet chain so, this and this.
KMC also have rainbow chains. There are other options in amazon from generic or lesser know brands, but I have no idea about how they perform compared to the SRAM chain.
How is the chain slipping? Is is dropping down or hopping up a rear gear, or is it slipping forward across teeth of the same gear?
Just based on your language, and how I perceive your knowledge of how everything is working, you might be best served by visiting a bike shop. Please don't take that as a knock against you, but if you want to take it in, you will be well served.
That being said, where's the fun in that? Let's do this ourselves!
If the chain is slipping forward, it may be stretched. Check out Sheldon Brown's article on chains. You can measure the chain stretch using a ruler, since every full link (that's two half-links, the individual swiveling parts) is 1" pin-to-pin. Measure twelve inches and the whole 12" should be pin-to-pin on a brand new chain. If your chain is 1/16" past 12" measuring twelve full lengths, replace it. If it gets more gone, it will start wearing down the teeth of your rear gears, and you'll need a new cassette or freewheel, depending on your rear wheel. That will cause slipping and skipping for sure, even with a brand new chain!
If you replace the chain, you will need to get a cheap chain breaker. There are many kinds at different price points, but I can vouch for that one as I carry it with me.
For a new chain, you have to get one that is the right width. This generally depends on the number of rear "speeds" you have. Up to 8 speeds in the rear is a standard chain. 9, 10, and 11 speeds in the rear require a chain that is thinner to fit in between the close spacing between gears.
You can also get a master link and replace a link in your chain with it - you can then remove the chain and reinstall it (for cleaning and work) without using a breaker. That's just a random one I found on amazon, which happens to be for 10-speed chains.
Measure your chain, check your gears for wear. If you have to replace your chain you just need a chain breaker and new parts. If you have to replace the rear gears as well you need a new set of gears and the appropriate freewheel/cassette removal tool. There a few common types of freewheel tools and just one cassette removal tool. They lock in to splines and allow you to use a standard wrench or socket to remove the tool.
EDIT:
Here's a video about removing a cassette
Here's a video about removing a freewheel
Here's a video about measuring a chain
>Change out the old cassette with a new Shimano HG-50-7-- will this even work on a road bike? 12-28
That depends on your rear derailler, but it will probably work.
>I need a chain to go with that.. thinking Shimano CN-HG-70-CS
half the price and the reuseable master link is nice.
Take a look here for your cheap CXP 22 needs. The cxp22/2200 (in silver) is $109 with ~$17 shipping vs Bicyclewheels' $145 + $50 shipping.
I did 105 chains for a while, but they cost a fortune and they lasted me about 2 months. I've since started using this bad boy:
http://amzn.com/B001AYOP9M
It's cheaper, comes with a master link, and makes it through a whole year. It probably weighs 2 oz more. Oh no!
You don't need a 21 speed chain, you need a 6/7 speed chain. Here's an example of this. Most stores which sell bikes, including department stores, stock these chains. You can pretty much use any chain tool . Some choose to use a dedicated chain tool, while others choose to use the chain tool in their multi tool. If you don't already have a bike multitool, I would highly recommend picking one up. This one is very highly regarded and the additional $11 over a generic chain tool might well be worth it, if only because of the huge amount of added functionality.
For tips on changing a chain, you can watch this video.
I believe lots of bikes were under the Technium label, from road bikes to mountain bikes.
Key point is how many cogs at the rear. At a guess, 7 or so, and most chains for >= 7 gears should work. KMC are good, and inexpensive.
However, if your chain broke, it's likely to mean that it was worn way past a reasonable max. A worn chain means worn cogs, and putting a fresh chain on worn cogs often means skipping. You may have to buy a new cassette/freewheel, and possibly new chainrings. Or find a source of partially worn chains to match your worn cogs.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html
Shimano HG71 6/7/8-Speed Chain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3R30WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OH42Cb98QQG56
Just match the size of the chain and weave it in the same way it's in now.
I spend up for the K710SL, but this doesn't look too bad (friends have bought it), and has become my reference for base level chain cost.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Silver-Single-Speed-Chain/dp/B000AO5NI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500666491&sr=8-1&keywords=single+speed+chain+kmc
Wait correction, I do have one of these on my """beater""" fixie.
OP can get a white one for $8
Brown is under $7 delivered, a real testament to the power of capitalism
Nice, I also picked up a used flip flop wheel for my ghetto conversion. For the tight chain you may need a half-link
Yes. I like fidgetland toys, have a few "Noah" and similar I bought as well as bunch of home made "chainey" (just need this chain and a chain tool I already had for working on my bike). I also really like my thinket (just got the cheapest plastic one) and my fidget cube , but they're a bit noisier and distracting to others if anyone is around.
I have fidget cubes and spinners, and don't find either one as useful for me.
I bought this one; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYJF2E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Its 116 links. It's also worth checking on the cable tension and making sure your derailleur is aligned and indexed correctly.
One small thing to note with respect to other replies is that your bike appears to have a freewheel and not a cassette. KMC Z51 is probably fine and is about as cheap as a chain can get.
With that sort of setup, many people just run them until it stops performing well and then replace the freewheel and chain together. You can replace both for the cost of a decent 8 or 9 speed chain. In any event, as someone has already said, it's probably best to ride it until the winter is over and changing it in the spring.
For fixed gear, BMX, or any other cycling setup where the chain slack is not adjusted by a rear derailleur or chain tensioner, it will allow you to get the rear wheel as close to the frame as possible.
Here is a half-link chain piece that you can stick on your current chain to eliminate rear wheel gap.
I think this looks pretty cool but they could take out another half-link and get the rear hub closer up in the dropout.
I don't think there is any true benefit to having a full half-link chain though. It's just for looks. The single half-link piece will solve any problems with a long chain.
https://www.amazon.com/Squirt-Lasting-Dry-Lube-bottle/dp/B00ANNR15G I use Squirt, it works really well and lasts a long time. I'm on my second bottle in about a year and a half. One drop per link, rotate and wipe off excess.
Applying lube to that rusty chain will not really help. Get a new chain (7 speed I'm guessing) https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Silver-Gray/dp/B003AFOV84 it's only $11, and keep it lubed every 100 miles or so.
If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.
A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks
[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50
9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35
Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11
allen wrenches $11
None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.
3 or 4?
I donno. Didn't count it.
This was a very cheap motor. Higher-end motors tend to be more efficient and thus will spin more. They generate less eddy losses.
​
Another thing to do is make sure that the wheel is seated 100% down. One of the crappy things about axles that use nut instead of quick releases is that as you tighten down the nut on one side it will 'push' the wheel partially out of the slots due to the rotation and friction. Older fashioned bikes that used nuts and threaded axles instead of QR axles would often have some sort of device, like a hanger that fits into a small hole above the axle that would hold the axle in place as you tightened.
For single-speeds in the back they would have chain tensioners that were little washers attached to bolts that would be used to draw the wheel back and hold it in place as you tightened the axle nut. But those only really work on Fork ends.
So it's very easy to get the wheel in a bit cockeyed. What I do is get the wheel snug while upside down or off the ground working on it. Then I get it up right on the ground and make sure to sit or lean or hang of the bike to put a lot of pressure so the axle doesn't try to move while I tightened.
​
Try getting to a quiet area and putting your head near the wheel and just push the wheel back and forth, like half of a rotation. See if the wheel drags more in certain positions. And listen to see if you can hear any rubbing or scraping noises. The motor should be very silent.
Marlin 5 looks like a 7 speed. So pretty much any old chain will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-X8-93-Bicycle-Chain-7-3mm/dp/B001MXQHPG/
*edit, this one is $2 cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z-72-7-8sp-chain-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2
I bet it's seized in there. If the vice grips fail and the screw is too mangled, cut it off and just use the bigger chain tensioner grease up all the threads so you don't have a similar problem with things seizing in the future.
Wiggle.com might be cheaper but here are amazon links. This is a simple parts list. In addition to cables.
Shimano Sora R3000-GS Medium Cage Rear Derailleur Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K5C70T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NAQ1AbV85X6N3
KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9BQ1AbT1P3155
Shimano FC-2450 50/34T Double 8-Speed Claris Crankset, Silver, 170mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSYP2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BDQ1Ab774ETJ1
SRAM PG950 11-32T 9-Speed Cassette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A3DMBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rEQ1AbRJTATWS
> Sram PC-1091
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M
This seems to be the chain that was on the bike.. doesn't look like the hollow pin design you had mentioned.
Thanks man
Oh thanks... it seems to be cheaper on amazon though :)
http://www.amazon.com/Sram-P-Lock-10-Speed-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B003VFEF6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373296507&sr=1-1&keywords=pc+1051
Check out my post.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/chpp6t/first_build_first_ride_tsdz2/
Smooth shifting with new:
SHIMANO MF-TZ21 14-28 Teeth 7 Speed Freewheel
KMC X8.99 Bicycle Chain (1/2 x 3/32-Inch, 116L, Silver)
Getting over 60+ miles using gears first, 75% tour mode, 25% Speed/Turbo mode.
​
Kickstand: FORTOP Bike Support Bicycle Kickstand Adjustable Aluminum Alloy for 22" 24" 26" 28" Mountain Bike/Road Bicycle/BMX/MTB/City Commuter Bike/Kids Bike/Sports Bike/Adult Bike/700 Road Bike
Thats the 112 link x10 10 speed chain with the connector link removed, leaving 111 links. I'm leaving the Amazon link below. They're buying this and removing the connector and selling it for the original price but as an 11 speed chain. Wow. Also it's out of stock. Maybe they got reported.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYOP9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?qid=1466225022&sr=8-16&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=kmc+11+speed+chain&dpPl=1&dpID=41-A4hwdBrL&ref=plSrch
Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.
I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.
29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)
Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.
Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B
9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH
SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94
SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41
KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T
So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.
perfect! thanks. is sunlite any good?
sort of unrelated: If im only using the rear 5 gears and 1 in front on my 10 speed, then could I get a chain that is meant for a 5-8 speed and then not use my full range? 10 speed chains are stupidly expensive. im looking at this shimano cn-hg70 right now.
what about this one:
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B001CN6QAC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
$32 for a chain is a bit high.
Amazon sells KMC 8 speed chains for $9 and free shipping.
You'll probably also find big chainrings a lot cheaper on Amazon.
Not sure which model Novara you have, but you can find 8 speed cassettes on Amazon for around $15 depending on which one you need.
Come to think of it, I buy just about everything replacement part wise off Amazon.
Not totally clear on what you mean when you say "wheels are scratched and slashed", I'm guessing you mean the tires are damaged?
The front tire is probably the most important thing for safety if it's damaged, with the brake cables close behind.
So my budget for fixing all that would be (assuming it's the tires and not the wheels that's damaged):
New:
Total cost: $90-100. Only special tool you'd need is a chain tool ($9) to adjust the length of the chain.
No gear skipping. My old chain was rusted reallll bad since I have nowhere to leave my bicycle as I live in a small apartment so it stays outside and got rained on pretty badly over winter. Just bought a replacement (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001CN6QAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and will put it on I guess after a new freewheel.
Thanks for the help!
I bought:
chain
cassette
Yes, this is one of the best aspects of SS bikes to me. The biggest issue is the design of your dropouts. Also, a half-link will be your best friend in regards to dialing in your chain tension.
That said, if you have a full suspension bike you will need a tensioner to combat chain growth through your travel, unless you have a concentric bottom bracket or unified rear triangle.
So, bit of an update, this is what I ordered earlier and wanting to make sure they're compatible/good choices:
Cassette:
SRAM PG850 8 Speed
Rear Derailleur
Shimano Alvio 8 Speed
Chain
SRAM 850
and I was unable to find any 'cheap' single bar end shifters, most were the 'extreme' kind that have bars extended out in front of the rider(unsure what that is called); however, was able to find a 'good' deal for a right Shimano Sora ST3000 8 Speed shifters.
From my understanding, I could mix/match many of the parts except the RD and the sifter should be the same brand. They all should be 8 speed?
The one part that I have reservations about is the rear deraileur as I would prefer something more 'roady' than the Alivio but unable to find any that are '8 speed'; would it be possible to get a 9 speed Shimano RD and have it still function well?
thats great, thanks. I ordered an CS-HG51.
So two more questions:
Will the common cassette removal tools on amazon work with this?
Do I need a Shimano HG chain or will a generic be ok? I purchased this one a while ago.
Hi ,
Im looking for a new 7 speed chain for my bike something cheap
Currently looking at this one
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000AOA3PS/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
Had it previously on my bike it was alright but was wondering if there are more options in this price range? (Live in canada if on amazon the better!)
You look it up online. Or on the packaging I'd guess. According to amazon it's a 3/32.
I think that'd fit with the 'narrow' on your previous chain (the 2 most common chain widths are 3/32 and 1/8).
(3/32 is narrower than 1/8)
You need an 8-speed chain. They're cheap--here's one for under $10--so buy one and be done.
Get a chain tool while you're at it, because you may need to remove a few links. Lay the new by the old to decide where to remove extra links.
In the future, store the bike indoors when you're at home, no matter how inconvenient it may be. Otherwise, everything made of steel will rust and turn to shit.
It is a 3/32 7 speed KMC Chain.
OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.
Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.
Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)
Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.
Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..
In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.
May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.
So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.
sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.
i bought aftermarket chain tensioners for my dirt jumper from origin8 for $10 on amazon and they are working fine
I can understand that a $20 investment in a set of chain tensioning devices will be worth it, they’ll give over your axle and to the back of the drop outs to keep the tension and help you long term
Check the link below for a decent example
Origin8 Chain Tension Adjuster, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GPJY1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dFYDDb060VP4Z
That track bike is *$&!^#% sick.
Oh and that chain on it is awesome, and affordable, i recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-K710SL-SuperLite-Bicycle-1-Speed/dp/B001CNARIE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1
Definitely a good decision by attempting to do the repair yourself instead of taking it to the LBS, you'll be saving a lot of money.
You can get the tools and parts for cheap on Amazon. you'll be paying triple+ if you buy them from the LBS, though the trade off is you won't be helping support "the little guys".
i'd hold off on replacing the front chaining since they wear at a verrrry slow rate compared to rear cogs, and only do so if you have similar problems after riding on a new cassette & chain.
You'll need a chain breaker tool to get the old chain off, this is one I purchased about 2 years ago, used it on 6 or 7 chains and it's still is going strong, under $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179JC31I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a new chain- https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B074YZGKKQ
also when was the last time you had your rear hub repacked? i'm not sure if just slapping a new cassette on that wheel given its state is a good idea, you might want to consider repacking with new grease and bearings and lubricating the free-hub first, which is more involved.
personally i'd say either get a new rear wheel, chain & cassette, then tinker around with the old wheel on the side, experiment with it, and ultimately keep it as a back up, or take the wheel to the LBS and let them overhaul the hub / lubricate the freehub before putting a new cassette on yourself, unless you want to spend the time learning how to do all that yourself, on-top of having to buy additional tools, bearings, grease, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-8-Speed/dp/B000VDFQAA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sram+8+speed+chain&qid=1558695763&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3
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I haven't personally used that model, but i've been using sram chains for years. They have a superior linking system to other manufacturers. If you buy or borrow a chain breaker, installing it yourself is simple enough. The big detail that you want to shop for is an 8 speed chain.
Been riding this one for 4 years, still good as new. ~$8
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z410-Bicycle-1-Speed-8-Inch/dp/B000AO5NI0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463584099&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+chain
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-10-Speed-Chain-Pins/dp/B0144OI83I
You can buy replacement replacement pins
Wonderful, it sounds like great upgrade. I was looking at something like this chain. I assume this will require the removal of some links to fit?
> there is a weird issue with the rear wheel slipping out and rubbing against the fram which no bike shop has been able to really fix, been to 2 shops, multiple mechanics, 4 quick releases and 2 different security skewers and nothing really seems to work all that well
You have horizontal dropouts? if yes, then this slipping issue should be easily fixed with a pair of "chain tugs". Put that term into amazon and you should find a few dozen different models, for example this model. I am not sure which model fits your bike but there are so many that you should be able to figure out a fitting pair. I used some when I had the same issue and it fixed the problem.
> The bike I have now has 27x1.24 wheels on it so when I do get a new bike (whenever that might be) i won't be able to bring the tires with.
Yeah, then it doesn't make much sense to invest a lot of money in this.
Sweet. So I am going to go with the 130mm spaced hub you linked above along with this cassette with 34 teeth to help with those mountains, this derailleur with the longer lever to work with the larger cassette, and this 6/7/8 speed chain. Let's hope it all works together!
Thx, that was really helpfull. I searched for sth similar in German / on the german Amazon pages, but no matches. For example I typed in "26 36 46 Kurbel" (=crank) and the only hits were either some 2-chain-rings cranksets or a 26-36-48 Crankset.
Regarding radcopter2's comment that the rings don't needed to be replaced urgently, I will have my chain checked, if it is too loose by now. THe chain is still a mass product and only costs ~ 20 USD.
Also the cassette (7-speed, 12-28 teeth) is still available at amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Chain-Keeper-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000IZEH1K
Very handy
If it is a 26" moutntian bike, get some Schwable marathon tires. They are excellent tires for most beginners riding around in most road/rough road conditions. Don't get some 15$ tire. Some basic BBB brake pads will be fine - nothing fancy. Get a chain while you're at it. For people unsure of what seat to get, I'd recommend on the the Tioga accentia line of seats, but they don't seem to be common in the US. You don't want one that is soft and spongey - even "gel" saddles should be very firm (similar to the feeling of the bicycle tire), and you want one to match your tailbone size. They make saddles in varying sizes (ladies have a wide pelvis, so their saddles are wider than all others, for example).
Remember, old bikes usually need 3 things: grease, cleaning, and a new chain (8sp linked, get the proper one for you). Dry bearings in the hubs/pedals are usually the worst.
Take you bike to a local bike shop and have them at least look at it. They can help you get the tires and seat. Give the 700c tires to the mechanic there (if they are not cracked up along the sides, otherwise toss em).