Best bike cleaning tools according to redditors
We found 63 Reddit comments discussing the best bike cleaning tools. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 63 Reddit comments discussing the best bike cleaning tools. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I use Various Combinations of the following for my Dirt and Street bikes.
The injury is clearly a case of your own neglect, OP, not because you were spinning the tire by hand. The post title is extremely misleading.
Spin the wheel backwards, slowly, and don't free spin it. Scrub the chain then repeat. Keep your hand in FRONT of the rear sprocket so if your towel grips it will pull you towards the front sprocket, which is feet away, rather than towards the rear sprocket which is probably 1 inch away.
For anyone that is still scared to touch their chain these brushes are actually really useful.
tools and products:
how to:
done with cleaning. after that, be sure to lube the chain with proper chain lube.
This whole summer has been plagued with road construction near me so I have been riding through patches of 'gravel dust.'
So I have been doing roughly weekly chain maintenance to not let that build up.
I use the grunge brush! to clean my chain and highly recommend it.
You can use any generic citrus de-greaser to clean your chain/cassette. They are all very similar and all work really well. I bought a 2 liter bottle at a hardware store for like 10$ and it works great.
Use a real chain lube. Finish Line Wet, Finish Line Dry and Boeshield T-9 are the products I have in my garage and each can serve a different purpose depending on your ride and riding conditions.
Do not use WD-40 if you plan on using a chain for years. I know this sounds weird because it seems like it is working and in a way it is but unfortunately wd40 is not just a lubricant/water repeller it also has some solvent properties which allow it to disolve things and then let those things penetrate the links of your chain and get deposited there.
it's more expensive than an old shoelace, but a chain cleaning tool is also pretty OK at getting stuff out from between the links.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Cleaner/dp/B00094CWA8
Edit: Just took the time to actually look at OP's post. Nice. Nicely done, sir....but seriously that chain cleaner will chainge your life.
Chain maintenance:
Oil changing:
Those are the basics, google for best prices. Best thing you can do is download your Gladius user manual (from suzuki or haynes), and it will explain what you need to do, when you need to do it.
Maxima Chain Cleaner and Maxima Chain Wax. The chain wax dries quickly and doesn't attract dirt like most spray lubes. I also love my grunge brush! You can pick them up from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Grunge-Brush-Chain/dp/B000BS02LS/
For clain cleaning, get yourself a grunge brush
and some chain cleaner and then apply chain lube.
You should do this at home because you'll have to do it frequently (every 600 to 1000 km, depending on the road conditions).
For oil changes, you could do it yourself if you want, it's not very hard, but it can be messy. Otherwise, any motorcycle dealer will do it for you. I buy 4L jugs of oil and my bike takes 3.5L per change. You can change the filter every two oil changes. I figure it costs me 45$ per oil change since I do it myself, so if you get it done at a dealer, factor in labor.
For tires, shop around, prices for tires + installation vary a lot so decide on what tire you want and call around. I had both tires changed on my bike last year for 400$ taxes in. The rear tire is the hardest one to change because you have to mess around with the chain and all so it's not very cheap. Buy a new tire with good longevity (road/touring tires such as Pilot Road 4 or Battlax T30).
It ain't cheap, but: https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Gear-Floss/dp/B07BFJ3C6B
If you use a chain cleaning tool like this or this it cleans your chain pretty well without needing to take it off the bike. Then I usually use an old toothbrush to get the gunk off the gears.
Clean your chain once a week! I'm lazy so I bought Park Tool's Cyclone Cleaner and my chain has never been better. Esp in the winter I find lots of road gunk getting stuck to my chain. I don't use Park Tool's cleaning fluid, rather I warm up some Simple Green cleaner.
give it a thorough clean and degrease with a chain scrubber and a round of WD40 (to clean off the rust) and then a second round with a citrus degreaser. Important to let it dry fully before patiently and thoroughly applying a good quality wet lube. At the very least, wipe down the chain of any residual moisture after each wet weather ride, and re-lube when needed.
I use the ParkTool chain cleaner but there are others from Finish Line and BBB which seem very good.
Cycle With Style Multi-purpose Motorcycle & Bike Chain Cleaning Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TEESUK0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Al7DzbQNYH9YY
It is, here is a similar looking one.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Cleaner/dp/B00094CWA8
Rust? unless you have a cheap bike, like really cheap I would not worry about rust. A good quality bike is nearly all aluminum or some alloy.
Bike storage I kept my bikes inside my dorm room but when I was there you could rent bike lockers.
Cover your seat with a plastic bag that would not hurt.
Your chain, just keep it clean if you must buy this for lube use this.
If you are proactive with maintainence I would not worry about it.
Bike chain cleaner.
Edit: this one:
https://www.amazon.com/MMOBIEL-Cleaning-Scrubber-Maintenance-Accessories/dp/B0719PCR3J
Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip
This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.
Tried one of these Park Chain Cleaner tools? Haven't yet myself, but will likely invest soon (reviews there seem favorable). (not yet needed on new bike, previously rode a belt driven bike)
Interesting that it mentions not using Kero, my understanding is that Kero is what most cleaners use as the degreaser. Used the maxima chain cleaner and it seemed like a bit of a waste for the amount. Kero is super cheap for a gallon and a spray bottle that it'll be a long time before I need more.
Ari recommends that circle brush but I hated using that thing. Much more a fan of just doing the top and bottom with the 3 sided brush. Brush
I use maxima chain wax but your mileage may vary. It's the only one I've tried and I've been happy so I haven't switched.
As far as service interval goes, I do mine every 600-1000 miles unless I ride through something really nasty and get a bunch of grit or something on the chain.
RevZilla recommends kero
Motorcyclist Magazine also recommends kero
For oil, I use rotella t4 15w-40 since it's cheap (I'm at 45k miles so I'm kinda whatever about it now). Been running rotella for 8k miles. In the winter I run t6 since it's synthetic and gives me better cold starts when parking the bike outside. Even here in GA the 15w-40 gets pretty dang thick when it's cold since it's conventional oil. As far as intervals for the oil, I do 4000k miles or 6 months on conventional or 12 months on synthentic. However, I usually end up changing early since over the last couple years I've changed out some gaskets and the clutch.
Maxima Clean Up Chain Cleaner on the chain, Grunge brush if necessary, then get the bike wet, spray it liberally with S100 and let it soak in for about 5 minutes, hose it off, and wipe down select bits with a towel.
Afterwards I'll put a little WD40 on the chain, then properly lube it when dry.
It's a chore but relatively easy and I'm always happy with the results.
Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.
This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.
Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1
Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.
As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9
Besides tools, a chain cleaner tool, some cleaner, and some dry lube will keep your chain moving freely. Just clean and lube your chain every few rides to improve shifting and reduce wear.
I'm just rereading your post and I'm thinking of buying some of the things you mentioned. I'm specifically thinking about degreasing my drive chain.
Would you confirm for me that these are good purchases?
Chain cleaning gizmo:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q4NCZI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497653406&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+chain+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=51NbNChbn9L&ref=plSrch
Simple green (liquid and spray)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DORUJS4/ref=psdcmw_10802561_t1_B01HNCCIB6
Thanks very much!!
Is it bad to just use wet lube, even if it's dry weather conditions?
Also, when it comes to chain cleaning. Reckon it's worth getting one of these, or will this and a rag do the trick?
For cleaning a chain, Park CM-5.2 Cyclone Chain Scrubber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_b6fVub13D0MPR - For cleaning cassettes, use an old shop rag and "floss" between the cogs. For the chainrings, hold a rag against the inside of the chainrings and give the cranks a couple good spins. Every other week is a great regime, so I'm unsure how the cassette turned out like that. You can usually get about 4000 on a cassette (sometimes more), and about 2000-2500 on a chain. This is all very broad estimates, but the cassette shouldn't be in that condition. Do you know what brand the cassette is? I've used SRAM and Shimano cassettes and haven't seen that issue, though I live in a dry climate.
It sounds like you're doing everything right, I'm curious why the cassette was in that condition. The chain could have needed replacing early if the cassette delaminated like that and accelerated chain wear.
I like this product Finish Line Gear Floss Value Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B077TCW663/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.1rPDbMGM07H2 and some good chains lube
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036QZ8VQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1370220113&sr=8-2&pi=SL75
I picked these up last year and they lift the bike pretty solid. Pretty heavy stands for the price. Spools are about 15$ depending on the style etc. Really helps with chain cleaning/ lubricating, rear tire/ brake work etc. The "grunge brush" is a fantastic tool as well. Also cheap, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BS02LS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370220336&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
May not be "fun" gifts but endlessly useful if not already owned. happy spending!
Edit: just adding something to 6x9equals42's post, excellent ideas
Kettenmax do a version of this, not sure if it was specificaly designed with motorcycles inmind (as well as pushbikes), but i've definitely seen it used on motorcycles. I've had one for a while myself, I've been meaning to use it for weeks now but never got around to it :(.
You can (and will be the best way of cleaning it) remove the chain, but it's not that necesary. There are chain cleaning tools like this one that will do a great job without the need to remove it. As for the air compresor, like water, you should not use a lot of preassure on parts that have grease on them.
Mit Vorsicht kannst du deine Räder auch an der Tanke Waschen.
Ein Meter Abstand und du kannst dir damit nix kaputtmachen
ich habe es immer so gemacht.
nass machen
mit reiniger einsprühen / oder am Reiniger die option mit dem Waschmittel wählen dann kannst du zwei Schritte in einem Abwasch (lol) machen
Bürsten benutzen
abspritzen
trocknen (wegen wasserflecken) / trocknen lassen
Kette schmieren
Es gibt diverse Sets an Bürsten für Fahrräder.
z.B. ParkTool Werkzeug BCB-4.2 Reinigungsbürstenset für 16€
gibt es auch schon ab etwa 10€ da war der Zahnkranzreiniger in der Regel und/oder die Griffe absoluter Mist.
Dein Set sollte eine große und weiche Bürste für Rahmen und Räder enthalten.
Für die unzugänlichen Stellen am Rahmen eignet sich sowas hier am besten
https://www.freizeitschmiede.com/images/sport/fahrrad/reinigung/brushkit-4.jpg
für die Kassette einen Zahnkranzreiniger
Das beste Paket das ich bisher getestet habe war das von parktool und für unter 20€ bekommst du damit das beste Preis leistungsangebot imo
https://www.amazon.de/ParkTool-Werkzeug-BCB-4-2-Reinigungsb%C3%BCrstenset-4001704/dp/B00JXNZZ32/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=
this is what I use, bad?
Grab a grunge brush off amazon.com
Here's a link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BS02LS/
I have been slowly buying tools this year, based on what I need for basics. So far, this chain cleaner has got a lot of use. I also bought a gallon of simple green degreaser. This is concentrate so it should equal roughly 20 gallons as long as i dilute it. Also gets bar tape super white.
What you do is clean the chain, clean the cassette/crank with degreaser and brush, then lube the chain. The less grime in the chain, the longer the drive train will last.
I also bought a cassette sprocket and chain whip and will occationally (once every 1000 miles or so) take it off and give it a nice soaking and try to get it as clean as possible.
From my own experience and what the sub has taught me. Go for this and this
All the other brushes (incl the ones you linked) are simply Chinese copy of these two in different variations and don't last. Buy these once and you won't need to bother again.
Instead of wd40, I have Shimano degreaser which works well. But you simply use a mix of kitchen liquid soap with hot water and it works as well. Buying a pressure washer is your choice, I've been riding for sometime and I clean with a bucket of hot water and it works.
Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.
But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...
At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
Best of luck
edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!
Seriously, get one of those Grime Ministers (Cycle Gear) or Grunge Brushes, it saves a shitload of time and effort. Spray chain down with chain cleaner, let sit 5 minutes, scrub with the brush, rinse with a hose, let dry, lube. Easy peasy, also made a million times easier with either a center stand or a swingarm stand.
BIKE CHAINS - The number one money saving maintanence trick is to clean the heck out of it. Get something like a Parktool Cleaner (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CM-5-Cyclone-Cleaner/dp/B00094CWA8) and some orange cleaner. Every 150k, clean that chain TWICE and let it dry thoroughly overnight. Then give it a new coat of NOT WD-40, anything your local bike shop sells will honestly do.
Don't add new oil to a dirty chain. Industrial sector grinding agents are usually a slurry of oil and fine particles, allowing for quick milling action. When you oil a dirty chain, this is the concotion you're making.
Just remember everything that chain is connected to, and how much each piece costs. New crankset and rear sprockets? Expensive. Remember those cranks and sprockets are usually brand specific these days, and can go obsolete. If you can't match them to your shifters when you replace them, you're into a whole new groupset.
Clean the damn chain.
I thought this post was something completely different, until I realized it was r/MTB...
anyway, to be helpful, this brush is quite useful, also, this set comes in handy.
You don't even need to take the chain off. Use a Grunge Brush with some cardboard behind it (to prevent slinging grime all over the swingarm and wheel), wipe down with a cloth, apply wax and you're done! Takes no more than 10 minutes.
The biggest difference between cranksets is roundness, a more expensive crank is going to be rounder which means there's a smaller difference in chain tension which means it "absorbs" less energy is more silent. Expensive cranksets are also stiffer, but unless you're putting out 3000 watt that isn't really an issue.
That conversion kit looks like a bad idea, it's a bunch of the cheapest components being marketed as "hip".
They're called riser bars, as long as you find a bar with same diameter (probably 25.4 or 26 mm on older road bikes) you can keep the stem and headset.
Park makes super nice tools, and that stand is a great choice. But I'd really consider buying tools along the ride, instead of shelling out big time for this huge set. Since you are a tool guy you probably already have a good part of those wrenches and keys, so it'd be better to move a bit of that budget towards your bike.
For this conversion you'll need these tools:
This totals about half of what you'd pay for the complete set, so I'd go for the complete set if you need all the wrenches, but otherwise you can put an extra $100 into your conversion.
For your chain I use and recommend one of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Chain-Cleaning-System/dp/B007Q4NCZI/ref=pd_lpo_468_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=HF8S7NP2M3GDWCHKCRX7
For the rear disc mech. brake...I dont know what to tell you. Perhaps you are putting on too much chain lube and its getting all over your other parts, thus atracting dirt and grime? Maybe you deal with stuff like Adobe mud/clay in your area which can be sandy and stiicky as well? I would ask a local shop about that one to see if anyone else has this issue as well and how they deal with it.
Matte white is definitely hard to clean. The hardest place of all is behind the chainrings, I don't think I'll ever be able to clean that right without removing the chainrings and cranks and I'm too lazy for that.
Here's my full cleaning routine:
I definitely recommend fenders, especially if you ride on wet roads. Sometimes I do hear rocks getting in but there's enough clearance that they don't get stuck.
I have a Giant Escape 3 that I purchased used. I use it for short commutes at college (~25-30 minutes round trip a few days a week).
I foolishly was unprepared to do deep cleaning. I have noticed that there is a good amount of dirt accumulating around all of the areas that the chain works through. I am looking at buying what I need to properly clean the bike myself rather than paying extra to have the deep clean when I take my bike into the shop.
Can I get some feedback on the few things I am planning to purchase? I am looking at the Park Tool Chain Gang cleaning kit, along with this small brush kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077D5JR55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FpkKBb6W7HWHE
and WD-40 bike lube. I also plan to go to Lowe’s Hardware to pick up a pump sprayer to spray water because I dont have access to a hose at my apartment or on campus. I think I might get a light duty car cleaner as well?
My campus has a service station that I think I could put the bike on to clean it, although if turning it upside down is acceptable then I could just do it right behind my apartment.
Does anyone have any feedback about these items? The bike already has a couple of shifting issues that were present when I bought it, but I don’t want to exacerbate anything by riding dirty.
Thanks!
Depends on conditions. If it's wet out I pretty much need to clean the drivetrain after every ride. In the summer I'll let it go longer and just do a quick wipe and relube, with a full clean whenever it gets too gunked up.
If you find it's getting dirty after every ride you may want to invest in one of these, it makes doing a full clean and re-lube much easier and you don't have to remove the chain.
https://www.amazon.com/JBM-Cleaning-Maintenance-Multi-Purpose-Mountain/dp/B01N6O56SJ
Yes. I clean it every couple of months - whack the cover off and just scoop out all the grime. Also helps you thoroughly clean the chain - if you leave all the grime there then as you clean one bit of the chain, the next time it comes around it will have picked up a load of that crap again.
Just use some shop towels and one of these to pull it all out.
I'm gonna play devil's advocate and say it's not uncommon for the first chain on a 125 to be neglected. I've done it, learned from it and my chains have never been better because of it. The amount of slack that can be pulled off the sprocket is not something that can be tightened. The amount of slack there shows the rollers are worn from abuse and not the garage's fault. To explain this better, the rollers are secured at the 12 and 6oclock position on the rear sprocket, they cannot slide about. The worn pins under the rollers increase the chain length, thus you can pull it off the chain. A good chain will not be worn and you cannot pull it off the chain.
What is important is how much freeplay there was between the 2 sprockets and this is what tells you if the garage did anything. If THAT is 1 inch at the tightest point then they did adjust it. As you have said your chain has multiple tight spots that says your chain is near end of life. Do not tighten it more than 1 inch of freeplay at its tightest spot as you'll damage your gearbox!
That chain was neglected by the previous owner so as a treat to your new chain, get some good chain cleaner ; a chain brush and some lube. Also if you have the budget, some Scott towels because they're really good. You can make it last 15K miles easily if you clean it regularly (600 miles normally, 100 in winter).
I'm not sure how much you know about cleaning chains but for your future benfit, you degrease it with cleaners, agitate it with a brush, wait then wash it all off and thoroughly dry it (I use scott towels as they're super strong and it'll get very dirty). Then sparingly apply the lube on the inside of the chain, between the rollers and the links.
Chain will last so long everyone will be amazed. You'll show your buddies who will marvel at how shiny your 20K mile chain is. You'll realise you can charge them a pound every time they look. Soon you'll have set up your own travelling sideshow as your 30K mile chain is still on there. After travelling Britain you'll return home, the adjusters being right at the limit. You'll have finally come full circle as you replace the chain with all the money you earned from your sideshow.
I use degreaser and something like this to wipe down the chain, chainring, and cog. Chain cleaners like this are really convenient, but hard to use on fixed gears since there's less slack than a bike with a derailleur. After it's nice and shiny, I tension it, and put a drop of all weather lube in every link like this.
There are tools that are made for this. Personally I recommend spraying some wd-40 on it to act as a surfactant, then thoroughly wipe clean and lubricate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00067W7CG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6O56SJ/ref=dp_cerb_2
Just sayn... :)