Best masonry brushes according to redditors
We found 17 Reddit comments discussing the best masonry brushes. We ranked the 10 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 17 Reddit comments discussing the best masonry brushes. We ranked the 10 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Well if you want one this is just $4.55 on Amazon and you can attach it to your drill.
Brass bristle brush. Don't use steel wire, it'll damage the knurling. Most nylon are too soft to really get in there.
I use this for all of my knurling needs.
Allway Tools Soft Grip Wide... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKRG4I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.
With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.
Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)
And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)
And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h
Some important tools and materials are:
I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
Albums
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For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
> Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
> Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
> Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
> Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
> Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
> That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
> ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
> This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
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I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?
I use a brass brush like the one included in this set:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037UUZRS
But really just about anything will work if you heat up the extruder to whatever temperature you use to print that filament.
Generally, I only really worry about cleaning the nozzle. When I opened this thread I was expecting some giant amounts of solid filament to be stuck your extruder, but what is shown in the picture is like nothing, I wouldn't even bother cleaning the sides of the extruder probably unless/until the build up got worse.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X233/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_vcizDbD0MGQVN
Don't add to much water to your mud to acheive the sharp peaks.
I don't think it matters per se, but what I used was:
https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-3-Piece-Brush-Set-173163/dp/B0012TRJ9I
That I found at my local motorcycle shop. Was happy with it
You should be able to clean off the pads, re-tin them, and re-solder new wires to them.
 
You'll need a few tools:
 
Clean and tin the soldering iron tip:
 
Remove the solder from the pads on the heat bed:
 
 
Add some solder to the pads - you'll want a little bit of solder to cover the whole pad, with enough to make a small bump.
 
Tin the wires:
 
Attach the tinned wires to the tinned solder pads on the heat bed:
 
Also: You can use some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean up the excess rosin paste - it can get sticky.
 
Hope this helps!
Your coils in both shots have a significant patina and your cotton looks too used and slightly burned, both of which will severely affect flavor. I'd recommend getting these brushes and once every two days or so (unless your juice is very very sweet) pulling out your cotton, and gently brushing down your coils to remove the gunk while rinsing under cold water. You'd be surprised at how much better your vape will taste!
I have a set of 3 brushes like this one except my bristles are steel. They come in 3 different grades of coarseness. Use fine for small details or you risk rounding the corners off. Sometimes the medium is needed for more stubborn finishes. The coarse brush is what I used to strip rust off of metal. Don't use that. You also need to be sure the bristles are moving parallel to the lines on the furniture. These brushes have a larger surface area than the wheels which I find too aggressive.
These are a tool that I bought for a single project and use pretty frequently. I just refinished a bench on the patio with them. That coarse brush is going to help me repair some rust on my barn.
While wera are nice (I own both some normal screwdrivers and a kraftform kompact r). you may want to look into the wiha 26inone screwdrivers if you are looking for a multi-bit. Their quality is often said to be equal to wera's. Here is the technicians version, the industrial version and the tradesman version they are pretty reasonable for a multi bit driver.
> In the description it says that there are some minor plating issues. Rust is not a minor plating issue imo.
In the seller's defense, he did show a picture of the inside of the head. Pictures count as a part of the description. But from the picture, it is hard to tell exactly what kind of crud is in the inside of that head. So if you wanted to return it on that basis, I could see your argument too.
Regarding the rust, the razor itself cannot rust. It's made from brass and nickel plating, so there's no iron to form any actual rust. If it is actual rust, it could be from any blades left stored in the razor for a long time. If it's not rust, it could be another type of corrosion--typically corrosion of the razor itself will show itself as green buildup. Regardless of the cause, you can remove it using a brass-bristled brush.
I picked these up. I give it a little brush in between each bowl and I don't have a problem with caked on tobacco.
Surprised there has been no love for Wiha's 26in1 till your post.
Has Trades, Tech, and Industrial bit sets.
Awesome! Great video, thanks for doing that. Now I have something to link people to when I bring it up. Two tips:
To get the alignment of the connector and drawer mechanism perfect on the first try, you plug the 72pin connector into the mainboard and then set the drawer in place on top of it. You screw in the 6 screws, but only a couple turns to get them started. Then insert a cart and lock it down into place like you were going to boot the system up. This aligns everything naturally. With the cart still locked down into place, tighten up all 6 screws and you're done.
To clean carts that you've cleaned a dozen times but still don't work, you need a brass brush. Brass is a nice soft metal (you probably have a brass soldering iron tip cleaner) that works great at cleaning other metals. Spray the contacts down with some of that cleaner you've got, and then scrub back and forth across the pins. Don't be afraid to apply some pressure. This roughs up the surface of the goldfingers, removing all sorts of oxidized crap that alcohol and even contact cleaner can't dissolve. I had one Intellivision cartridge from the 1970s that was so corroded I didn't think it would ever boot, but came right back to life after a brushing. Here's a link to some brushes I bought on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7064-Mini-Brush-3-Piece/dp/B0037UUZRS/ (The nylon one is great for cleaning console exteriors, and the steel one can be used to clean your BBQ grill.)
As a side note, it doesn't matter if the connector sits on the bottom the whole time. The surface temperature of the bottom of a pan full of water boiling at 100C is going to be within a couple degrees of 100C itself. Sort of counter-intuitive. You'd expect the pan bottom to be really hot, but it's not. There's actually a fun science fair thing you can do that shows this in action: boiling water in a paper cup. Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I9gKzea3Cno
it is really beyond repair and anything you might do to it is just going to crack up again. If I was you and wanted to make things look nice I would remove all the loose stuff around the tree and pull up all those bricks and regrade the yard so its level with the slab.. looks like you have a nice rake there.. then get yourself a 2 gallon pump sprayer and put half a gallon of bleach in it and the rest water and spray it down real good and keep it wet for half an hour with bleach solution then wash everything away.. looks like you have some patching to do near the corner of the house near the grate and you can dig out some of the dirt and put in a couple inches of concrete there. as for patching cracks its not going to last long especially if you're in an area where it gets cold in the winter. you can use a mortar mix and then add portland cement to it to make it stronger .. then use a concrete brush to apply a skim coat of portland cement to the surface of the concrete just to make it look uniform.. but it won't last more than a year or two depending where you live.... its like doing your driveway or staining your deck.. every couple years.. maybe maybe not
but the big thing is making it better than it is now.. and put maybe 2 weekends into this.. its not rocket science heh its just a lot of raking that dirt back and washing it down.
I don't understand what it is you are not getting. I bought a set of wire brushes from Amazon that look like tooth brushes but are just a bit bigger. They come in a set of three. Here is the actual [site] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037UUZRS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00). You get three brushes for $4.65 each one is a different bristle.