Best pin punches according to redditors
We found 109 Reddit comments discussing the best pin punches. We ranked the 45 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 109 Reddit comments discussing the best pin punches. We ranked the 45 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Super helpful, especially with those tiny bolt stop pins, if you're building an upper or lower. At $5, its just good to have.
ETA - 21 left at 3:38 CST
ETA 2 - What kind of savage downvotes $5 shipped tools?
ETA 3 - $5 set is OOS @ 3:57 CST
ETA 4 - Stainless is $8 shipped if you have Amazon Prime
That's like $60 in tools.
This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.
I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.
The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.
Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80
Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M
Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0
Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE
Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2
TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680
TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW
IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0
Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E
Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB
Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D
Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF
TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH
Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5
Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
Buy these. Get the roll pin started with one of these, then squeeze it into place in a vise
If you buy from PSA, I'd recommend using a pre-paid credit card, as they've had site security issues in the past.
I think by "80% lower" you may have been thinking of a stripped lower, where all you have is the aluminum lower, with none of the controls installed. A stripped lower is s great place to start! YouTube has a bunch of easy how-to videos. I recommend /u/nsz85 videos, which I used for my first build.
Some other things you'll want to have handy:
Vice Block for Lower
Vice Block for Upper
Roll pin starter kit
Rubber Mallet
Torque Wrench
These are the basics, and once you buy them, you'll never have to buy them again for future builds. There's other tools out there to consider, but get you started.
Best of luck!
EDIT: shit, how could I forget the AR Wrench!
Best place to start:
Buy this (which has all the parts you need except a stripped lower)
Buy a stripped lower
Buy a wrench
Buy some pin punches
You're all set for $600 out the door.
I don't think these are the roll pin starters, since they say they can be used to finish driving nails. If they were roll pin starters they would be hollow and pretty useless for nails. I think there are four pin punches and one large solid punch in this set. And pin punches aren't even the right tool for finish nails, every nail set I've ever seen is a center punch style.
Here is a set that has an excellent illustration of different types. It includes everything except the roll pin starter style, but you can see those here.
It's a few bucks, but I got bought both of the above within the last year and been very happy with them, and both are made in the USA. I really like the big Tekton set as it is pretty much everything you need for firearms, except the roll pin starters, and I've gotten rid of all my cheap ones.
I like these at $11.97 delivered.
edit: formatting
High quality punches make all the difference. Must be high quality tool steel. Grace USA - Steel Roll Spring Punch Set - RS7 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WADKN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1Bf5yb210M8D0 get a cheap set of starter punches also. Quality on these is a non issue really. Squirrel Daddy Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8Gf5ybCTYBDBY
This set of Starrett punches while expensive is extremely high quality, well worth the money IMO. (Actually the price matches the 8pc set from Brownells)
I bought one of these a while ago from an Amazon vendor. It's heavy as fuck, but does the job.
EDIT: Don't know if you need other tools, but this seems like a pretty good deal too, since it also includes vise blocks and a front sight tool for not much more.
EDIT #2: You'll also want a roll pin punch set if you don't already have one. A roll pin starter set and a rubber/plastic mallet are nice to have but not absolutely needed.
I agree with this, and I'd like to say spend some money on a set of roll pin starter and roll pin punch set.
And wow, my full service, machine-shop smith, only charges $65/hr. I know that good work costs $$$, but.... Wow
edit: and some masking/electrical tape. Its not hard, but a modicum of appropriate tools and preventive measures for oopsies, is relatively cheap.
My father was a machinist and these were the punches he recommended when I told him I wanted a set:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/565-pin-punch-set-prod12625.aspx
If you don't want the stand up case you can get a cheap rubber case for less:
https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/S565PC
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-S565PC-Drive-Punch-Pieces/dp/B0006J4OUC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=starrett+punch+set&qid=1569421053&sr=8-2
If you need roll pin punches I have Grace:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/roll-pin-punches-prod38883.aspx
Even better thing to build coils on: roll pin punches
It is a spring loaded nail set / center punch.
https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R02-1-Counter-Punch/dp/B0006Q4I60
Build an AR. Literally grown up lego's.
Buy Roll pin punches, Grace makes good ones
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy high quality punches in general I recommend starret for the none roll pin type.
Buy a barrel vise The viper is excellent. http://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/barrel-vise-sku100013367-58959-123515.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-100-013-367&gclid=CjwKEAiAjIbBBRCitNvJ1o257WESJADpoUt0SFb6lBg-x3fdGfsdwZDF0XGfx8AMg43bfFV-DRafuhoCBhjw_wcB
Never hold a weapon by anything other than the barrel when applying 60+ foot pounds of torque if you can help it.
That all off the top of my head for now.
I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.
I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!
https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R02-1-Counter-Punch/dp/B0006Q4I60/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539615379&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spring+loaded+nail+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41hDMKGosQL&ref=plSrch
Spring loaded nail set. Idk what you would do w the other $90 but this alone he will love.
First buy some pin punches, like Grace or Tekton (avoid going cheap, they always break).
Then of course a proper hammer
Then some starter punches
Then some finishing punches (I know they say starter but they're better for finishing)
Yes, it costs money, but they pay for themselves. Also you don't have to dick around with taping things off as much if you have proper tools. The brass punches and the pin capturing starter punches help IMMENSELY in this area.
Oh yes. The Starrett brass punches are amazing. Get an extra of the 1/16" because it's the easiest one to fuck up.
Personally, I like mid length gas system, but for the money
This has a carbine gas system and would be a better bang for your buck. All you'd need is a lower, Anderson would be just fine. Hopefully where you live you could still pick one up for around $50.
Buy this armorers wrench
Buy this roll pin set.
This is completely optional but if you've never built one before it will save your ass.
Punch it out from the other side. An “oops kit” from ebay will have the extra parts you commonly need or loose. Use some lube for the hole and the pin before you try and put it in should make it easier.... Ideally you will want to use punches made for gun building specifically an “ar 15 rolling pin starter punch” It has a hollow point and will prevent the splitting and make it easier to start. I’ve found using some electrical tape around the areas on my lower I am working around helps prevent me from accidentally nicking it with hammers or punches. Good luck!
If u don’t like Wally try this it gives 1 extra wrench
I prefer US made tool so I bought starter punches at Amazon and regular punches at Brownells
These are the ones I have;
Roll Pin Starter Punch Set Hollow End all Stainless Steel USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QO2XGRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KYAPAbNFX5CHX
Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n9bvybCFXCASK these hollow roll pin punches. You simply insert them in the end and hammer away.
Welcome to the wonderful world of home rifle maintenance. As frustrated as you maybe now, you'll be better able to work on your firearms in the future because of it. We've all been in a similar position where something simple won't work the way it's supposed to.
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What type of hammer (weight, material, head) and punches (material, diameter) are you using?
How are you placing the receiver while you work on the rifle, are you trying to drive the pin out side to side or top down?
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Based on what you've posted so far (and not knowing answers to the above yet).
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If it were me working on the rifle I would make a quick armourers block (see below for link to a purchasable one). Just take a piece of 2x4 and drill a decent sized hole in it, perhaps 3/8" to 1/2". Now clearly there's a lot of pressure holding that pin in place, to remove it you need a proper hammer and a proper punch. For the hammer you need something like a 12oz steel ball pein. For the punch you will need a steel punch with a diameter as close to the pin as possible without going over.
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To drift that pin out of the receiver you're going to put your armourers block on a solid surface (work bench, garage floor, etc). Place the receiver, on it's side on top of the block, and punch the pin from the top into the hole in the armours block. It will take a few good wacks before the pin will move, and once it does it will move quick.
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If after all that the pin won't come out I would recommend taking it to gunsmith as you may be doing something wrong.
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Relevant tools:
https://www.amazon.ca/Real-Avid-Smart-Bench-Block/dp/B01LXE01KU/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bench%2Bblock&qid=1574830067&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-fibreglass-ballpein-hammer-0574103p.html#srp
https://www.amazon.ca/Vaughan-TC2012-12-Ounce-Commercial-Hammer/dp/B00018AP1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=12oz+hammer&qid=1574831381&s=hi&sr=1-15
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00008IHTJ?pf_rd_p=166ffdfc-3741-4c47-bf8d-82d1def52b0e&pf_rd_r=SXGJ0TT9FGC6PNXD4XHT
One of these guys, basically just put one end against the pin and apply the hammer to the other side of the punch.
Man I just finished this post and it's kind of long, oh well, that's what I get for staying up all night getting hopped up on diet soda like a rebel.
Start with buying a stripped lower, don't get hung up on brand names, there are only a handful of lower manufactures out there (I believe less than 10, maybe less than 5). Most companies have someone else make their lowers and stick their roll mark (the design on the side of the lower) on it then sell it at a 50% markup. This is the only part of the entire firearm that can not be shipped to your doorstep unless you have an FFL.
Next, since you don't want anything flashy, I would suggest the Palmetto State Armory Classic Lower Build Kit and bam, your lower is all done.
For your upper, I think I would stick to more reputable brands since there seem to be more manufacturers due to the lack of the involvement of headaches with the ATF, grab one with a lot of high reviews and then buy a PSA AR15 Upper Build Kit. For a barrel just go with whatever suits your taste, my preference is definitely 16" with a mid length gas system, it's a dream to shoot. I would recommend getting one with a front sight post already pinned on, if you decide you don't want it (like if you would want to install a free float hand guard), it's very easily replaced but if you get one without and decide you want it later it's probably the most involved/complicated thing you can even do with an ar-15. If you get a barrel with a pinned on front sight/gas block then grab the appropriate length hand guard for $20-$40 and then you need a muzzle device and a crush washer which should be about $8-$10. Buy some charging handle, everyone I know owns a Bravo Company gunfighter charging handle and loves it but I have heard a lot of good things about the Ranier Raptor charging handle as well.
Now, for a bolt carrier group, you do not want to assemble this at your kitchen table, at least not the carrier. The gas key staking is probably the most important part of the entire firearm in terms of reliability, I can't stress this enough, buy your bolt carrier from a reputable company, if you can get a Bravo Company bolt carrier group DO IT and don't look back. Once you get it, don't ever remove the gas key either, I wish I could find the video but I can't, it was of some youtube clowns running around with ar-15's and one of their rifles kept malfunctioning, he same something dumb like "I even removed the gas key and cleaned it out, I don't understand why it isn't cycling" later in the video he took out his bolt carrier and it was rattling like a paint can.
Also, factor tools in to your budget, probably around $50-100 depending on what you already have and how easily you want your build to go. The only thing you absolutely will need is an armorers wrench, everything else can be cheesed or is more for convenience. A torque wrench really should be used for the castle and barrel nuts, a center punch for staking the castle nut is actually cheaper than a tube of loctite, a small table clamp vice like this one should be sufficient if you don't have one already and a set of vice blocks will make your life easier when you torque stuff down, a set of roll pin punches and a non-marring hammer will keep everything nice and pretty but are not required if you take your time and go slow.
Originally bought this starter set and this Punch Set.
Then when I decided to use a polymer lower for my AR pistol build, I ordered this combo starter and Punch kit
I use something like this on all my frames.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OL0U28/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500461890&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=picture+hangers&dpPl=1&dpID=31nJKniOUjL&ref=plSrch
Now this might not be the exact model as wider ones can hold more weight.
I find the center of the frame and mark it.
I use combination square to make a line on the back of the frame a half inch from the top.
Use the dot on the hanger to center it and knock the nails in place.
If you really want to go the extra mile, or maybe I'm just neurotic, I center the hanger and use a nail set to mark the holes. Then I use a drill and a small drill bit similar to the size of the hanger nail to make that mark about half as deep as the nail. Now when I attach the hanger, the nail doesn't move when I'm trying to knock it in. The nail set works for that too.
Nail Set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQPGYI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500462479&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nail+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41OuNQ4YrML&ref=plSrch
Now all your frames are mounted at the same location and it aids in lining them up straight on the wall.
Roll pin starter punches are one of the best investments I ever made.
Otherwise... just tap them in with a small brass hammer and a pair of needle nose pliers.
Koozies $36
Screwdriver set http://amzn.to/1sldIPb $15 at walmart
Punch set http://amzn.to/1y2sJIi $15 on amazon
Nitre Salts $50
Various pans from thrift store for bluing process $10
Buffer $20 flea market
Buffer wheels and compounds $20 harbor freight
Flitz tube $15 gunshow
The SFS/ambi parts/springs/grips were all a kit from BHspringsolutions and it's $239 for everything. Up until now Cylinder and slide was the only place I know of selling and they want $189 for only the SFS kit. Bhspringsolutions gives you everything listed for a few bucks more.
Here is the kit I used.
http://bhspringsolutions.com/home/126-bhss-ultimate-performance-kit.html
I got this set on Amazon about a year ago. Has been really solid for me. No issues. By GRIP company.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L7HOMG
I tried the other methods such as various vice grips with electrical tape, and I still ended up scratching the shit out of my lower. This time around I bought some decent roll pin punches off amazon here and here.
Its much better having the correct tools in my opinion. Plus the ones I linked are from a company called Grace, made in the USA (Michigan)
I would recommend not only the roll pin punches, but also the Hollow End Starter Punch Set.
and
a Utility Knife to get the pivot pin detent in.
Roll pins are the worst, but a punch set with hollow ends like this one make them easier to deal with.
At work, I use these and these with a Brownell's brass/nylon hammer and a couple of unmarked brass punches. These are great product's but they're spendy if you're not doing this stuff for a living.
At home I have this and a couple of roll pin starters. It's a great setup for lighter use.
If you're doing sights, the brass punch and nylon hammer head are musts. For everything else the brass head and steel punches are fine. To avoid marring up whatever you're working on, use blue painter's tape to cover the area.
I did the same exact thing to my Sr7 a few months ago so I will give you some advice.
Adding onto what others have said. (Just a disclaimer I've only built 5 ARs so far so I dont know if some of the cheapo stuff is as durable as the fancy stuff that others are recommending.)
I really like this armourer's wrench since the 1/2" drive is so close to the castle and barrel nut adapter. Makes getting the correct torque easier IMO. Usually you only need the castle nut and flash hider adapters for AR builds since most aftermarket handgaurds come with proprietary barrel nut wrenches.
A decent set of roll pin punches will help you install both the upper and lower. I like this cause it also comes with a nylon (i think its nylon) end to keep from messing up your upper/lower finish.
Also, this is worth its weight in gold. It helps you install things like the roll pin that goes in the gas tube, bolt catch, trigger gaurd, and forward assist without the need of those fancy $50 tools.
And lastly I would definitely get a magpul Bev block and a bench vise. I got a cheapo one from amazon and its worked fine.
So I came to a similar conclusion that it would probably make sense to replace the gas block (im new to guns so I didn't know I could swap that out). Here are some pictures of the front of my gun and my current gas block: http://imgur.com/a/RwHFx
The end goal is simply to have a rail in the front to mount my magpul flip up sight. So based on my research, my thoughts are this:
The operation to install it seems simple enough, but do you have any tips on preforming the installation? Any thoughts on different front gas blocks (I know you linked one, but im just looking for a replacement that has 1-4 rails)?
Used Snap on punches that I pick up at the swap meet (there are a bunch of used tool guys out there) AND This set from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPBN8 -
I talked with a custom builder after I bent a few punches and asked him about punches and he said even his good punches (Starret etc) break/bend over time especially when working on FSBs and gs blocks.. It's just a cost of doing business.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Thanks for the link, I ordered them, might as well. Thanks!
I say you'll probably need them.
Look here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421281670&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
I used these long roll pin punches:
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047WKF84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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vix bits make the world a better place and youre gonna want to take the door off this makes those annoying bottom pins jump right out and comes with what will be your favorite nail set or at least mine.
I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.
I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.
I have this set and it's worked well for my p10c
I also have a small hammer with a plastic / rubber side I think.
I also grabbed the real avid brand universal gun block.
I swapped to the HB industries trigger using these tools.
They do offer larger punch sets too for not too much more money, like the Tekton or Wheeler master punch set
Wheeler punch set
I built the same exact kit and went with minimal tools. Here's what I needed to build with an Aero Percision Lower;
You can look in to the FastCap Knuckle Bender . It’s handy for all sorts of hinge work, easy to use with gloves, and has a huuuuge hinge pin on it.
Also, the Spring Tools Hinge Pin Popper is tremendously quick and easy to use... But small, easier to lose, harder to use with gloves.
Bonus! These Wedge-It Door Stops were designed by a firefighter, come in a variety of colors, easily clip on to a carabiner, and are disgustingly durable.
Then prebuilt might be best unless you know someone or you have a gunsmith that doesn’t charge something crazy.
At any rate, even with your budget you could just invest in the tools if you plan any future builds.
If piecing something out, most manufacturers include a barrel nut wrench which can be adapted to a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar.
So you would just be in need of a vise and block. I got mine at harbor freight. Was 24$ something after a coupon. And I scooped a sweet vise pin block for 20$ at a gun show. I’ve built well over 30 guns on it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NO-M-A-R-Universal-Upper-Vise-Block-USA-Armorers-Gunsmith-bench-block-tool/123866382627?epid=1417692853&hash=item1cd7030123:g:2SYAAOSwT6pV3SD5
Pin vise I use is similar to this. Mine works on both ar15 and Ar10.
Vise from harbor freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-swivel-vise-with-anvil-61329.html
Amazon has a set of punches which will cover all bases for $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=roll+punch+set&qid=1565363401&s=gateway&sprefix=roll+pun&sr=8-9
I use this one. Has yet to fail me.
Only other thing you’d need is a castle nut wrench. NC Star makes one for about 10$. Works great. Available at academy or on eBay
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/tapco-intrafuse®-ar-stock-wrench
Awesome. I just got a nice set of punches off Amazon and an armorers wrench from there too.
The order has been placed from Midway so I hope it gets here this week. It would be a nice project for the weekend! Looking forward to getting it finished.
Pilot cartridges come with a disk sealing them. Putting it back in place seals the cartridge. I have been doing this for years with not one single leak.
This is how I refill my vanishing points cartridges . I would also recommend using something like an altoid tin to carry them in for extra protection.
A punch looks like this. They are used to drive pins.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2LGZUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_V-W.zbPKPPF0Q
I have used Allen wrenches and small drill bits that I was willing to sacrifice previously. That being said...
https://www.amazon.com/America-Hollow-Steel-Starter-Punch/dp/B01BL4TW3Y/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-12&keywords=roll+pin+punch
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Roll-Pin-Punch/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469788510&sr=8-5&keywords=roll+pin+punch
Punch sets can be had relatively cheaply. I bought the wheeler, though the hollow type might be better for your application.
Here's one on Amazon.
These are what I use. The nail sets are great too.
I used something like this for the hammer - plastic end worked great. You can get something like this if you prefer metal.
These are the punches I used, they're great. Definitely recommend something like these.
I don't get why the other guy delete his post. I basically lost my shopping list. So I guess I'll ask you, any torque wrench I need? Also would roll pin set like https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Gunsmithing/dp/B003L7HOMG those be all I need?
Edit: Those roll pins seem bad quality. Could you direct me to some better ones?
got this kit on PSA on sale a while back, VERY useful. I think all the bits separate would run you ~125 so def a good buy. Also these are good.
Punch set - http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-89032-Short-3-Piece/dp/B0060H8O0K
Roll Pin STarter Set - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191RFK4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Castle nut Wrench - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008H7PSUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Vice Block - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PHEIW18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have 3 American Locks that I had to do that to. The first one I drilled it with a small bit and stepped up the size twice before using the punch. The second one I used only the larger size bit before using the punch and by the third I was just done with the BS and only used the punch. That one took two swift wacks with the back of a screw driver to push it through enough to grab the bottom with pliers and yank out. That was the easiest and least time consuming out of the 3.
This is the set that I used.
You can get a cheap set from Amazon or a good set from Brownell's if you're going to be using them frequently.
https://smile.amazon.com/Grip-Roll-Pin-Punch-Pieces/dp/B003L7HOMG
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-Slotted-and-Phillips-71281H/204664388
It does everything, all the bits fit into itself. If you trash the bits, bring it back to Home Depot and they will replace it.
When it's on sale, expect it to be like $4
If you build coils, I use a punch. Namely this guy, though I got mine through McMaster
http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-565B-Overall-Length-Diameter/dp/B0006J4KAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1418349081&sr=1-1&keywords=starrett+punch+3%2F32
You can use a larger punch for bigger coils, but this 3/32 has provided a sufficient coil at about 2.38mm diameter.
Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.
Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.
No way, man. THESE are the bomb: https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R02-1-Counter-Punch/dp/B0006Q4I60
This is what I do..
Hammer + $4 for a nail set on Amazon and you don't have to worry about marking the face of your projects and don't have to store an air compressor.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-58-230-Piece-Steel-Nail/dp/B000BQPGYI/r
loctite blue and aeroshell 33ms for the barrel install, also great for installing a freefloat handguard and scope mounts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012AXR4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ive found luck with this punch set, although the 3/32 did bend a smidge when I was pounding the hell out of it when pinning my gas block. also a rollpin starter punch set is a nice addition.
https://www.amazon.com/Fixxxer-Hollow-Stainless-Steel-Starter/dp/B0191RFK4I/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1480117372&sr=1-4&keywords=starter+punch+set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012TKY0VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A pair of channel locks?
Get a punch set and a roll pin start set.
Use the right tools for the job.