Best skateboard risers according to redditors

http://www.amazon.com/Longboard-Riser-Truck-Risers-Black/dp/B00B2Q4PK2

im joking, get 1/8 or 1/4 shocks.

Dime Bag Hardware Angled Wedge Rubber Riser Pads 5/16"-9/16" (8mm-14mm)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXVG3WG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0Bh3CbWMQY6XT

Hmmm interesting thought. I'll run through my though process on it, kinda stream of conscious:

Clamping is a really good idea. I like the simplicity. It's flexible and lets you move the machine easily. I don't have the overhang on my desk necessary to clamp mine.

I did try a couple different materials VHB'd to the bottom of the 80/20 runners including a high and low density rubbers and a dense rubber backed wet/dry carpeting like you would find in a mud room. The low density rubber caused massive sway, high density rubber(urethane), which was effectively a plastic was loud. As in, the machine didn't rock, but it hit some frequency with the 1" thick desk and was just loud. The carpet was actually really nice, kept the noise down and slid nicely across the desk, but the whole top of the machine swayed just from the mass.

Clamping straight to a table/desk has the possibility of hitting resonant frequencies on jerky moves. What I would probably do is either get some rubber gasket material, which you can buy in squares at you local hardware store or some 1/8" rubber Skateboard Risers and cut them into smaller pieces. Place them between the table and your machine's feet and between the clamp and the machine.

That's just off the top of my head, it would be easy to try. It might work, it might not.

If you purchase the board with the extended range battery already installed on the board the extended risers should be installed.
if you purchase the board with standard range and added the extended range as an upgrade item the risers will be included with the extended range battery which you would have to install.. if you have flatland3d bash gaurds check this out ..

flatland3d Extended Riser for Boosted https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BSSQLZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1Zv1AbZKD7H5Attery hope this helps you

Ya gotta get longer hardware and a pulley conversion kit too, will edit this comment and add all links

Edit:
TROUBLE SKATEBOARDS Riser Pads... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDT7JZ7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
(I currently have 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/4 risers on just to be extra safe from the wheels biting the bottom of the mini, it's plenty)

Slick Revolution Wheel Pulley... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3WC9VR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Fireball Dragon Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073HD2TRP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And of course the wheels themselves:
Slick Revolution 120mm Purple... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VHZV2BJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Could always do amazon, may be way easier in the long run

Abec 11 Classic Thanes in 81a. So would I want something like this or this?

https://www.amazon.com/LUCKY-RISERS-Skateboard-Shock-Riser/dp/B00BTN0ZIE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536453998&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=lucky+risers+white

I bought these from my local skate shop for $1.

yes slower speeds its nice but when you go fast or need to brake really fast its like a trampoline. On the marbel i forgot i switched the riser pads with rubber shock pads and it takes some of the edge off the bumps and cracks. When the m1 comes i'll do the same.

http://www.amazon.com/Arbor-Shock-Skateboard-Riser-8-Inch/dp/B00J5J6OIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458489683&sr=8-1&keywords=shock+riser+pads

I took then off they hard plastic dude, I was taking about putting new ones like these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BEF91D6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iBI5CbR9N0TJD

Hi again, I've been skating for about a month now, but have nerded-out on all of the technical aspects of skating. Also, sorry for the late response.

Softer, larger wheels are always better for rougher terrain, as they have some give; reducing vibrations (giving you a smoother ride), and minimizing damage to the contact patch (the part of the wheel directly in contact with the ground), as well as hanging up less on cracks and imperfections in the ground. And yes, the 60mm SharkWheels are extremely soft, coming in at 73 on the "A" durometer scale. Also, installing the shock/riser pads is exremely straight forward. Just remove the screws that attach your trucks to the deck, and place the pads inbetween the trucks and the deck when you re-attach them. Since using riser pads increases the space between the top of your mounting hardware, and the bottom of the truck baseplate, you'll need some longer screws. (I know I said you'd need 1/8" risers, but you'll actually need 1/4" ones. Here's a link to a set of risers and new screws: https://www.amazon.com/Longboard-Riser-Hardware-Black-Risers/dp/B01GVYLLDS?ref_=Oct_CARAsinC_3416211_2&pf_rd_p=615a1383-c417-5ea4-9e60-3dea50680d38&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=3416211&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=23AB060KWQ2M6XTT79SF&pf_rd_r=23AB060KWQ2M6XTT79SF&pf_rd_p=615a1383-c417-5ea4-9e60-3dea50680d38)

About changing boards, you don't need to buy a new skateboard unless the deck has cracked or snapped, the nose and tail have been ground down to a razor edge, or the deck plys have delaminated. If you want to improve the quality of the wheels that you have, I suggest cleaning or replacing the bearings in their core. Also, when you remove your wheels from the truck axles, make sure to keep the two speed rings that are on the axle. Depending on the wheels you have, there may be a metal spacer between the bearings. If there is no spacer, you'll want to purchase a set of bearing spacers, since they allow you to tighten your axle nuts all the way down, and reduce damage to bearing races since they properly allign the inner races. Here's a link to the spacer set I used, which also come with replacement speed rings:
https://www.amazon.com/Fireball-Spacers-Washers-Skateboards-Longboards/dp/B01GIGU2SE/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?keywords=bearing+spacers&pd_rd_i=B01GIGU2SE&pd_rd_r=8f7f6dbf-9e1d-4fe8-b773-f88fd58cb1b6&pd_rd_w=XHSmr&pd_rd_wg=JYzjS&pf_rd_p=52ddbacc-f25e-4731-abd8-005c535b500a&pf_rd_r=WYCXRWENHXVGEBSRAHYH&qid=1562015024&s=gateway&sprefix=beating+spacer

Aandd here's two videos that detail the entire bearing removal/cleaning process from start to finish:

https://youtu.be/QqSOBvVDNwQ
https://youtu.be/epLPX7sRQXI

Side note: The "A" and "B" durometer scales are used to measure wheel hardness. The higher the durometer, the harder the wheel. Both scales start at 73, and max out at 100, with the "B" scale being 20 points lower that the "A" scale for a wheel of the same hardness (a 100B wheel would be equivalent to a 120A wheel).

Hope this helped :)