Best sledgehammers according to redditors

This might come in handy.

most definitely possible. you can either use an EF-E mount adapter like metabones or sigma, OR my preferred method to get the best quality (requires some DIY), is to get a set of these, lightly and i do mean LIGHTLY taper out the mount to the right shape of the lens mount. Tapping the end of the tool with one of these, for stubborn spots. Don't worry if you slip a bit and hit the sensor. Anything that shows up in your images, you can crop out in post.

Clean it up and polish it down with this. Best stuff in the business.

​

You'll be 🔪🔪☠KILLING IT 🔪🔪☠ in the photography game afterwards. All you pics will be 🔥🔥LIT🧯🧯!

Honestly, a claw hammer is the wrong tool for the job, so both sides are the wrong side. The hammer side would be okay, but the claw really serves no meaningful purpose for face caving, and could lead to potentially dangerous situations if your backswing is a bit wild. I'd highly recommend the Estwing 40oz Blacksmith's Hammer. At 40oz, it's heavier than most claw hammers (Most claws are 16-20oz), plus the blunted back makes accidents less likely. And not only that, but with a 14" handle you get plenty of leverage.

Man I'm getting sick of these disingenuous cunts and their mental gymnastics.

Riddle me this:

What is This? It's a hammer. What is a hammer? It's a tool that you hit things with. Take this hammer and hit a person with it, what is the hammer now? A Weapon. What's the legal term for hitting someone with a hammer? Assault.

Hammers are literally "Assault weapons." We should ban them.


See how fucking retarded this is?

I never understood how people lost tools so frequently until I left a mallet, long flathead screwdriver and a 15mm socket over three visits to the pull-a-part yard. At least it'll make someone else's day. I really like that hide mallet, too.

Edit: I get them for free at work and just realized how expensive they are. Holy shit.

http://www.amazon.com/Truper-30923-20-Pound-Hickory-36-Inch/dp/B0026KM3BG

This is cool and that it's adjustable is great.

I just use a 4LB Hammer that's not used for work just for grip training (so it's not dirty and fucked up).

Would love if the handle was round and wide like your set up. Otherwise, I like keeping this sucker around.

Yes, this is a much cheaper option, just need some labour hour:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I33UG8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vN.pzbPA9WWVN

This'll probably work too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL4UI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_6O.pzbMNCAMXZ

To save some time, this will do the trick nice and fast: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBT3AZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_YQ.pzb7E4XC6F

Then this is the only tool you need

Blacksmiths hammer

I recently removed some brick from my fireplace and I used this chisel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NIFBA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this hammer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I33UDUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was using some old chisels and a claw hammer and it was getting the job done, but the way I look at it, if I'm going to save us a bunch of money fixing the house myself then I'm going to treat myself with tools. These two tools made a significant difference.

The chisel is a no brainer for the price, sped things up a lot because of the large size, less splintering of what was there, etc. The large size will help you get between the mortar and the current brick you don't want to disturb.

The sledge is optional. Everyone has claw hammers and it gets the work done. But I was amazed at how much more powerful a couple of pounds are when you're driving chisels and knocking out bricks instead of just pounding nails. Don't know how I never owned a sledge hammer before now.

Wow, quick with the sarcasm and insults. I'm agreeing with you. Hardness is more important than sharpness. I've split whole cords of wood with a dull maul like this one. Just because you can split with a sharp axe doesn't mean it's necessary.

Try this:

Fix for all your PC problems

Customers who bought this item also bought:

make that 90% and sure. adam should get some nice cufflinks; give him the gag gifts on his birthday

james : http://www.amazon.com/BILLY-BLANKS-TAEBO-Pack-DVD/dp/B00015GAO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448937642&sr=8-2&keywords=taebo

lawrence: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCTML6Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

/\ : http://www.amazon.com/Wooden-Coffin-Incense-Burner-Compartment/dp/B0017RCJU4/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1448937723&sr=1-17

spoole: http://www.amazon.com/SPACE-ODDITIES-JACK-HORKHEIMER-HUSTLER/dp/B001Q1YD0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1448937761&sr=1-2

joel: http://www.amazon.com/Paul-Mitchell-Special-Shampoo-33-8oz/dp/B003E1EUA8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448937812&sr=8-3

elyse: http://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-FMHT56011-FATMAX-Sledge-8-Pound/dp/B00I33UFOM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448937838&sr=8-2 (this was supposed to be a link to peter gabriel's hit single but it works too)

(side note i would buy funhaus cufflinks)

Whoops, I forgot to read.

Judging by this example, the head is 12 lb with dimensions 2.2" x 2.2" x 7". That's about .35 lb per cubic inch.

So if the head of the Doomhammer was made of the same material (and maybe it's not the best example to use), it would weigh about 250 lbs. Jeez! Not bad for a 1H Mace.

> sometimes locking up deadbolts for businesses

FYI, picking a lock runs the risk of damaging it. You could split a pin or jam the lock, leaving it stuck in whatever position it's currently in.

I'd look at an electric lock pick for speed and ease. Not that complicated to use, but pretty loud. Good ones run ~$150. A bit larger, so easier to carry in a duty bag.

Unless you've got a coordinated tactical entry, trying to pick a lock during entry sounds like a great way to get dead. You're stuck in a fatal funnel. It could take 5 seconds to pick, or you might just give up after 10 minutes. A door kick will always take 10 seconds.

I don't know where you work, what kind of threat level you deal with, or what kind of calls you deal with.

Look up some videos of electric lock picks, they're pretty fast. But a sledge hammer is $31 on Amazon and the batteries won't die at the worst possible moment.

Define "easy to break material."

Modern construction techniques use drywall (gypsum board) for the interior walls--which can be easily smashed with a hammer or if you hit it with your fist hard enough. (Though you'll bruise your fist.) The interior of the wall is often a soft insulation material in bats held between 2x4 wood studs which are hard to break, but can definitely be smashed by your car or with a very heavy sledge hammer.

The exterior is often plywood (for rigidity) covered with a thin plastic-like substance (a moisture barrier) then covered in some sort of outer cladding: a brick facade, or siding material, or stucco--a sort of sandy cement that is sprayed onto the exterior of the house. All of this can be smashed by a guy with a sledge hammer and some effort.

It's rare to see houses made of cement or cement block, or entirely of bricks.

Though note those things can be broken as well. And the reason why you don't see cement or cement block used in the United States is because while they're harder to smash, they are also brittle--meaning one crack and (unless you used a flexible rebar while assembling the wall or material) the whole thing is fucked.

----

As to fences it depends where you are in the country. In California, it was rare to see property not surrounded by fences. (It's hard for me to imagine a subdivision without fences around the back yard.)

Here in North Carolina--it depends on where you are. Where I live, there are no fences. (That took some getting used to, by the way.) But then I live on a wooded 2 acre lot where trees block the view between houses. And a fence is only required if you have a swimming pool.

Worse, because we're surrounded by trees (which are falling all. the. god. damned. time), it's just a matter of time before you have to go out and fix a fence because a tree fell on it. (Where we live, there is a clear grass buffer zone between our house and the trees, so if a tree falls near our house it won't reach it.)

Get yourself a Ford special tool and preform from percussive maintenance.

The Fiskars X27 is my go-to axe. Its light weight is great for endurance and it's pretty effective at splitting. For stubborn wood with knots, I use a Stihl maul. They sell for around $100. If the wood still won't split, I use wedges and a Fiskars 8 pound sledge hammer. If wedges and maul fail, I use a chainsaw to noodle it.

How to Speed Up a Computer
^^^By ^^^ArchDucky

Step 1 : Open up the case and blow out the dust with a can of compressed air. Do this outside or in the bedroom of an enemy.
Step 2 : Run Windows Disc Cleanup, CCleaner and Malware Bytes. They are free so don't pay for them.
Step 3 : Run Windows Defrag several times. (Several means more than once.)

And if that doesn't work, purchase this device from amazon and apply liberally to the inside and outside of the case.

I found mine at fleet farm

3-4 lb ones on amazon Fiskars IsoCore 3 Pound Club Hammer, 11 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDAC2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IUzGDbNSAV7N6


10 lb sledge hammer Fiskars 750620-1001 Pro IsoCore 10 lb Sledge Hammer, 36 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014M9LBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mVzGDbMDC6FQB

That's so cool, I hope I can learn to do that one day. How did you learn to do that and what tools did you use? Know of any good video tutorials or youtube channels to learn from? I'm still trying to find a cheap hammer and a metal block to hammer on (steel billet? Railroad track?). I have no idea what I would learn to make though.

This is a 2lb but there's 4lbs also so I might just have to go to Lowes and handle some - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-56-003-FatMax-AntiVibe-Blacksmith/dp/B000F4YLRY/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F4YLRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499563400&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=blacksmith+hammer+Stanley&dpPl=1&dpID=31LI5MJkWAL&ref=plSrch

Though if you really want to make an impact then you really should be using a splitting maul.

You can do this now. Just buy this $16 memory eraser.

Rock hammer examples- - - https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Rock-Pick-Geological-Reduction/dp/B01EKZFJVK

https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Rock-Hammer-Pointed-Geological/dp/B079P78VL7


Eye protection (z-87 rated) safety glasses or goggles (Goggles preferred).


Cold chisel 12 - 16 inch long 3\4 to 1 inch edge example https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-Select-12205-12-Inch-Handguarded/dp/B0016N07S0/ref=sr_1_1

Leather work gloves


3 lb hammer example https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Strike-Drilling-Crack-Hammer/dp/B00433SC4Q


Magnifying loop 30x


Plastic baggies 1 gallon size for rocks.


Back pack

Gold pan, perhaps.

Pry bar is some times handy

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25202-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B000CMJHCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467028419&sr=8-2&keywords=ball+joint+separator

https://www.amazon.com/Truper-30923-20-Pound-Hickory-36-Inch/dp/B0026KM3BG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467028453&sr=8-5&keywords=sledge+hammer

Budget?

under $20 - Books - I highly recommend the Stohlman hand sewing book and his leather cases series, it should be required reading for beginners.

$25 - strap cutter

Garland Rawhide mallets - American made, will last damn near forever, and deliver hard hits to tools without damaging the end of the tool. I mostly use a #2 split head for driving punches and setting rivets, and a #3 unweighted for tooling and smaller work.

Knives - A good utility or rotary is always a good idea, but one thing most beginners won't have is a round knife. Unfortunately, most new ones are crap and don't hold an edge very well. I haven't used a newer Osborne's but I'd trust them over most other brands available today unless you go to a custom knife maker. The other option is a vintage Gomph or Rose brand knife. Unfortunately, they're no longer in business, but Bruce Johnson specializes in selling vintage tools. He is also very helpful if you have any other questions.

Thank you for the suggestion, u/munscza. Is this hammer (https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Strike-Drilling-Crack-Hammer/dp/B00433SC4Q) a good fit to knock the tire or an over kill?

There is this big bastard

Amateur...

One technique tends to catch and release the sound. The other technique tends to crush it.

I've had one of these for decades. Pretty much indestructible.

Game on

Faint is testing the feel of the heaviest sledgehammer he could find, when the start of a loud sound makes him reflexively disappear into thin air.

He hears the rest of the sound while phased out, still managing to make out the quite obvious cause for it. 'Something blew up.'

After assuring himself that his immediate location wasn't about to get immediately swept up in the aftermath of the blast, he phases in, jumps at a 45° angle in the direction of the blast, and phases out mid-jump, sledgehammer still firmly in his grasp.

I Use one of these guys with a chisel and it works great for me, although I wish my particular chisel was finer at the tip

And deer fly are the worst! Those buggers are somehow fast and nimble enough to follow you through dense bush all damn day!

Seriously take a small sledge hammer to a field, and throw it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I33UEAC/ref=twister_B00P0YULH8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You will 100% feel it get heavy, and it will probably force you to brace when you throw it.