SSR or Solid State Relay. It's a switch to turn line voltage power on and off using low voltage (3-32VDC).

Here is one on Amazon with a heatsink.

I recommend going with a mains powered silicone heating pad, switched by a solid state relay, adhered to a cast aluminum tooling plate, with a PEI sheet adhered to the aluminum as a build surface. It costs a good amount more and is worth it. Of course you will need to play around with sizing things (you may want to go with a smaller heating pad for instance), selecting things for the voltage in your country (I linked 110V stuff), and whether or not you are comfortable working with mains voltage.

You can! The best way to do this is to use the ESP8266's GPIO pins to send a PWM signal to your 240v device through a solid state relay. ( https://www.amazon.com/TIHOOD-SSR-25-3-32VDC-5-200V-SSR-25DD/dp/B07PQL4CM6 )

This allows you to use the ESP's 3/5v signal to safely control the 240v device. It's fairly easy too! Hit me up if you want some more pointers :)

This setup is not remotely safe if you don't know what your doing with electricity buy a power supply. Power supplies are still dangerous but they're inherently safer than this jank setup.

This an excellent website with a guide that is similar to my set up.

Dimmer switch

Rectifier

Toss in an incandescent light bulb or halogen bulb plus a base and you'll have my setup.

As mentioned before, probably a relay. Put it behind the switch and when the switch is activated the relay will activate/deactivate the higher voltage circuit.

Edit:
Something like this, based on your description, probably work.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj998D5xNrlAhWNisgKHTUtACcYABABGgJxdQ&ae=1&sig=AOD64_0tYPiicTIK7L4gZTy2TSf9Wtvbag&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjx2bf5xNrlAhVJUK0KHWiFCO4Qwg96BAgIEAk&adurl=https://www.amazon.com/SSR-40DA-Solid-Output-24-380V-SSR-40/dp/B07FVHWN82/ref%3Dasc_df_B07FVHWN82/%3Ftag%3Dhyprod-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D241966292090%26hvpos%3D1o1%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D6033163257211069449%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D1016367%26hvtargid%3Dpla-523145149125%26psc%3D1

Ok so the heat bed is here:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/200X200mm-400W-12V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-3D-Printer-Heater-Heatbed-First-Grade/210086_32230108542.html
and the relay is here:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Solid-State-SSR-25-24-380V/dp/B0087ZTN08/
(thanks to BillDaCat)

Where is the metal brace thingy? (or is that part of your printer? Or the fiberglass part?)

The Raspberry Pi sets its own time with most out-of-the-box distros at boot up.

Controlling a power supply would actually be pretty easy with a relay.

I recommend the Sainsmart Solid State Relays. They are silent in function and if you cut apart an extension cord, you can put one pole through the relay and it's now programmable. Keep in mind that an 8 channel relay is probably overkill. There's also a 4 channel available on Amazon.

You can go with the MECHANICAL relay (as opposed to solid state) because they're cheaper and you can get a 1 channel relay, but they're VERY loud when they clack open or closed.

Yeah, something like this would be fine. Solid state relay board

You bought the wrong SSR. Yours is modulated by a voltage range, for a potentiometer you need one like this or this.

The voltage style is used with a controller like the Auber distilling controller or an arduino or similar microcontroller. For simple adjustment for a potentiometer, you want the resistance regulated style.

Maxillo is on the right track. Here's a cheaper option also on Amazon that will do the same thing.

Don't you need a fuse, mov, diode to protect low voltage side???

Anyways, even though probably a Chinese imposter, isn't it really worth it to just get a commercial SSR for a few more bucks. By the time you get to PCB, heatsink you are over $20

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-ASH-100DA-3-32VDC-480VAC-Authorized/dp/B01LYW7D9G/

1. buy a different solenoid. There are variable voltage ones out there like 3-12v but you will most likely run into the wiimote not supplying enough current to push both the solenoid and rumble motor.
   
   
2. (best option) Use a relay to trigger the 12v off of the 5v rumble if the wii mote rumble is a full 5v pulse/pwm (probably is). Then, use any number of rechargeable 12v battery, 8 1.5v AA eneloop rechargeable batteries, or 3x 14500 lithium ion batteries (11.1v total but would usually be 12v and same size as AA batteries) for the solenoid.
   
   Items:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay
   
   If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery
   
   or
   
   Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
   https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder

Managed to get nearly all of my printed components designed and printed on my ender 3 in PETG. Went with 0.2mm layer height and 7 shells. The corner brackets can take a hanging load of 200lbs with no deformation so I think it will be strong enough.

Think I'm going to have to go with a 310x310mm 110v bed heater. Anyone have experience controlling that with a 24v board? I'm thinking of using this.


Ogrmar SSR-25 DA 25A 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC Solid State Relay and Heat Sink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FT4VXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hz83DbVV5T3YP

Is there any reason I couldn't use a spare pc power supply to power the board and hot end? I have a 650w laying around from an old pc build.

I have build a C-Bot and am currently using a Fotek 40A SSR you can get off of amazon. This was the listing recommended by the creator of the C-bot in his rework design btw. I have it attached to the aluminum extrusions directly with some heatsink compound between them and it barely gets warm during operation.

You can hook it up as they recommend for the 24v configuration but that just provides the same amount of power at a different voltage so that doesn't help.


If you hook up 24v to the 12v terminals, you will quadruple the power and double the current.


Ohm's law, 12V=(1.2ohm)(10A) or 24v=(1.2ohm)(20A)


You would probably need a 600W 24v power supply and all of your wiring needs to be 10awg at least.


Hook it up like this diagram shows, except your bed power will connect to the 24v psu instead of the 12v.

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/25/7d/4a/1d/63/D-Bot_Electrical_Diagram.pdf


Here's the relay used, be sure to heatsink it

http://www.amazon.com/Single-Phase-SSR-40DD-DC3-32V-DC5-60V/dp/B012SW6TB6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1444750548&sr=1-6&keywords=solid+state+relay+dc+-ac

Parts list is dependent on what controller you use. This is a decent one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195V53X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_n5DWCbX7WY6NB

You will need a box or container for the pid and wires. A temp probe that will work in the 500c temps. And a solid state relay. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Solid-SSR-25-3-2-32V-24-380V/dp/B0087ZTN08/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_3/147-7782181-2201822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0087ZTN08&pd_rd_r=0b211574-6776-11e9-b475-c358acaaf9b4&pd_rd_w=As9SE&pd_rd_wg=uOeRp&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=X57XWHY664NJBVVBD0AS&psc=1&refRID=X57XWHY664NJBVVBD0AS&th=1

That's an example, I need to do more digging to make sure its capacity is ok. I think it should work.

In general, a pid controller says "turn on the relay when the temperature is between x and y. Turn off when the temperature reads z.

This type of probe would work

https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Prime-TL1815-HeadProbe-Thermocouple-Temperature/dp/B0142S9J4S/ref=pd_aw_sbs_79_1/147-7782181-2201822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0142S9J4S&pd_rd_r=49d6e55b-6777-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&pd_rd_w=eR1mx&pd_rd_wg=w1VKC&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=BHRC8SSGY71B2D18D2Q1&psc=1&refRID=BHRC8SSGY71B2D18D2Q1&th=1

Get some solid state relays, and you don't need the AC to DC converter. Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Opto-22-Control-Optical-Isolation/dp/B0058UX17G/ref=sr_1_1


I also imagine a circuit breaker like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Push-Button-Reset-Only-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B000S5TI5K/ref=sr_1_2

Thanks again, would this be an acceptable relay to use.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Channel-optocoupler-Support-Trigger/dp/B00LW15A4W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G3S0E83TCCD6FZ78SFFW

or this one.

https://www.amazon.com/TinaWood-SSR-25DD-Solid-State-5-200V/dp/B07F3WGRP4/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=5+volt+dc+relay&qid=1566485708&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Thanks for the response. Here is the diode spec:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/GeneSiC-Semiconductor/MBR200100CT?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2FHVp1T5850G0TwaW7MIEjcA%3D

Sorry allow me to clarify the problem a bit more. The load I am driving is a motor controller attached to a 3 phase BLDC motor. On shutdown the motor causes the voltage to rise steadily to 60V and then back down to 36V. This causes the power supplies to trip their OVP circuits which require a power cycle to clear the fault. The motor controller and motor were originally meant to run of a 36V battery. The circuit diagram is as show here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flyback_diode

The flyback diode seemed to work when I initially switched on the + 36 VDC line going to a motor controller and a motor. The power supplies were separated from the inductive load kick and this allowed me to reconnect after the energy had been dissipated. I believe the issue with the flyback diode after my initial success was due to this SSR:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/HDC100D160?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyXJl6MftlF9Ozj4Qj0dXsoS3PeWG6bs8%3D

Although I am unsure why this is the case. I am currently debugging it. The issue now seems that the SSR does not turn off quick enough or allows too much voltage through before closing tripping the OVP on the power supplies. In my initial setup, where the system worked as expected, I was using these SSR:

https://www.amazon.com/TinaWood-SSR-25DD-Solid-State-5-200V/dp/B07F3WGRP4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tinawood&qid=1552598915&s=industrial&sr=1-2

One used to trigger the motor controller low power signal and one to switch the 36 V power. The system at no load draws around 8 - 15 A so using the 40 A version worked out fine. However, during full operation, the system would draw around 60 - 80 A with some peaks of 100 A. I thought the Crydom SSR would work for the power line switch. The diodes were working when I checked them with a multimeter.

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  
  And here's the part list!
  
  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  :---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

https://www.amazon.com/SSR-25-DC-AC-Solid-State-Relay/dp/B07FVR37QN/ref=asc_df_B07FVR37QN/

1. Don't kill yourself. ( educate yourself on being safe - assume nothing.)
   
   
2. A compressor can have a pretty high starting current so you should pick a device with higher rating than the load current. 3 to 5 x IMO.
   
   Example

You need a heavy duty relay for your channels like the one below. Check out the Christmas lights forums. The guys with the crazy displays like Lindsay Lights have all this stuff figured out to a tee.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017A1QUGO/ref=pd_aw_lpo_23_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M4WFC6EYB1PMBX4DE59E

My Chinese one capped out. Got this one a week ago. So far so good


WerFamily SSR Solid State Relay SSR-40DD DC-DC 3-32V DC / 5-250V DC / 40A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPT9GG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3p0vzbECND6MA

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-ASH-40DA-3-32VDC-480VAC-Authorized/dp/B01M167L7V/

Make sure to mount it to a cool part of the chassis to heatsink it.

Are you talking about the auber diy kit? I wanted to get that but for $500 I decided to try and build myself. At this point I with I would have just spared myself the headache and gotten that!

So I think I got the right 470k ohm ssvr and 500k potentiometer combo? I want to order it so it will be here Monday or Tuesday and get up and running again. Thanks for the help.

This would work right? https://smile.amazon.com/Baomain-SSR-15AA-Covered-50-280V-24-480V/dp/B01EMVQNB2/

Yes I would say the heated bed is a necessity if you want to print ABS the stock bed only reaches 45-50c and takes along time to heatup , the bed I bought is from folgertech it's the 12v silicone heated bed 300x300 and yes you could do a separate PSU as well I just didn't need to and the mosfet I bought is the trigorilla mosfet on Amazon, I would recommend that mosfet over any other as I bought a DCDC SSR and it didn't work, i then bought a BIQU mosfet on Amazon and it started smoking so I returned it but the trigorilla mosfet has had no issues so far, to add to my heated im going to add some cork to insulate it to hold the heat better.. hope this helps

This is the spare relay i have laying around. I believe it's DC to DC, right?

Awesome dude. I was in the same spot as you. Ended up using some of these, but I have an LED fixture, so it's not drawing as much power at T5s. It works really great with the pi, and now I don't have to fuck with having 3 or 4 timers, and can change or control it all from my phone or computer without the pain in the ass of stooping under the tank.

Thanks for the safety advice, that's obviously something I want to be careful with. I'm looking at getting this keenovo 200x300mm heater and this SSR. What kind of fuses do you recommend for something like this?

So one like this or this work? Whats the difference between the two?

I'm thinking this is the route I need to go. With the relay I'm powering a single 120V 500 watt heating element but had considered adding a second element to add redundancy and cover if somehow room temp were to drop so low a single element couldn't output enough heat. I don't think that's an issue though since one element seems to be able to maintain the correct temp even around 50F in my shop. If I'm figuring this right that should need a little more 4 amps to power it correct? I see this relay that is rated at 25 amps so I'm thinking it should work fine for no more than I'm doing even if I do add a second element. Thoughts?

Thanks for the detailed write-up on your safety mods!!

I've seen Solid State relays recommended over/instead of the MOSFETs you linked to. e.g. something like this but rated at 25A.

However I'm having trouble deciding which one on Amazon is compatible. Would I need one that is DC to AC or DC to DC?

Like would this one be appropriate? Or this one?

I'm looking at Amazon only because they ship from the US and I'm hoping to have a Mosfet or SSR in hand by next week.

EDIT: Doing some more research, it seems like one of these is what I need? Amazon results for SSR-40DD The recommended brands are Fotek, Auber and Crydom.

This will work.

Disclaimer: not a fish tank engineer- use at your own risk.

https://www.amazon.com/Opto-22-Control-Optical-Isolation/dp/B0058UX17G

you can also find the omron ssr on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003B316N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1