Reddit reviews [3 Pack] Anker Powerline USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, S10, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10, Xiaomi 5 and More

Powerline or Powerline+ will suite your needs. 3 Pack for $12

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Nintendo/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520990533&sr=8-7&keywords=anker+usb+c

My suggestion for everyone, reasonable price and high quality (brand tested by the Google Engineer, approved. I also tested the outputs with my own multimeter and noted they meet spec after reading all about his comments):

6 ft USB 3 to USB-C:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01E9W8KYC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485529618&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb-c

3 pack 6ft USB 3 to USB-C:
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-PowerLine-Resistor-Including-ChromeBook/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1485529618&sr=8-5&keywords=anker+usb-c

Portable battery pack that I got for my future switch (includes all needed cables):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B014ZO46LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


edit: I was intrigued by the power meter linked above from satechi. I ordered it, will test that device to and see what the devices/cables I have output through it. Probably take more than a week to get to Canada, and it cost an arm and a leg to ship.

• USB Cable. Use the OEM cable or a certified micro USB, more improtantly, USB-C cable. Off the shelf USB-C cables that are not wired correctly, or, any cable that has a filter in it will cause these issues 100%. I went through 3 different USB-C cables until I found one that worked like the OEM cable.
  
  I can confirm that these cables work: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HF0YGCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Some headunits from some manufacturer's have certain devices not supported or even blacklisted on the head unit. Changing the USB Hardware ID/Manufacturer ID fixes this 99% of the time.
  
  https://gist.github.com/jdamcd/6054951
  
  Some are listed there, more information if you Google search. Likely requires root on most phones. Using a Google vendor ID for USB is the best option.
  
  
• Restarting the phone fixes this sometimes.
  
  
• Closing background apps fixes this sometimes too.
  
  
  Not saying that this is going to fix all these issues but it's things to try for any phone. From the sounds of it there is a broader issue here but I would look at my thoughts above for things to try regardless. :)

I've been using these, and they have held up well.

• Caseology Case
  
  
• Spigen Galaxy Screen Protector
  
  
• Anker USB Type C cables
  
  
• iKits FC 3.0 Ultra Slim Power Bank
  
  
• Aukey QC 3.0 5-Port USB Charger
  
  
• Anker Fast Charge Wireless Charger
  
  EDIT: Added a few items

here you go mate: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Including/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500351977&sr=8-4&keywords=Anker+USB+C

Original size: Not sure, but it's either a meter or slightly less.

The ones I linked you are almost a meter long.

I like Anker's cables. They have a 3-pack of 3ft and a 2 pack of 6ft.

If your S8+ isn't charging with that cable it maybe be a very cheap out of spec cable so the phone won't use it, or the usb port you're plugging it into isn't providing enough power. Try charging it from a wall adapter. Otherwise I see a lot of people recommend anker usb-c cables off amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Nintendo/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505378780&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+cables+usb+c

I just noticed that link has a "56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Galaxy S8, S8+" added to the title.

Good luck and hopefully that takes care of it! Just wanted to toss my 2 cents in, these cables from Anker fixed my issues after I had the same issues you're describing. They seem to fit a little more snug in both ends and I haven't had a problem (i usually leave the phone inside the center console though)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

In both cases, I have the extension cable coming from the back into the middle console, from there, I have the Anker cable. Some people on Reddit had issues with the extension cable, luckily, I haven't had that problem. This sounds like exactly my problem with the 2330 NEX, and a firmware update made the Android connect exponentially faster. Went from 15-30 seconds to under 3 seconds. Here is the cable that I bought. Don't have a commection problem with our two NEX or Ford Sync 3 systems with Android Auto. I do have a problem with using Android Auto calling people, and I can't hear them on Bluetooth. There appears to be a handoff issue that has been outstanding for awhile in AA. It works fine with the new update, but one day doesn't make a fix. :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VFfqDbBS875S3

As far as replacements cables go if required, get an Anker or Aukey A-C cable pack or an Aukey C-C pack


but it sounds like something on the phone side needs fixing

Link to the cable i use, reported Max USB current was 2100 mA in Ampere app while using it with a anker car charger

I have this, works great. Of course, in order to enable fast charging with any charger you need to have a capable cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016LOGVRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it along with these cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HF0YGCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only have one dash charger (It's just called One Plus Fast Charge now) and I haven't tried the new cables on it as its at work.

USB-C to C: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LNA0XCU

usb3 to C - 3ft: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HF0YGCK

usb3 to C - 6ft: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01NGTUJ4Y

I know that... i bought some cheaper ankers (non braided) for those situations, but type C still is new... so there aren't too many good low cost cables out.

If you want to buy another cable, read the reviews first and also ensure it has a 56K Ohm resistor like this Anker one.

These are what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK/

That's not correct. In order for cables to support fast charging, they have to have a 56k ohm resistor connected in the right place.
I like the Anker cables. They come in a variety of lengths; the last time I ordered, I ordered these: [3 Pack] Anker Powerline USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for Samsung Galaxy Note 8, S8, S8+, S9, S10, MacBook, Sony XZ, LG V20 G5 G6, HTC 10, Xiaomi 5 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A2yPCbZAZB83E

Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.

A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.

I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.

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On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.

Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.

I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.

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As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.

Got this 3-pack on Amazon. Worked fine with my Moto Z, but didn't work well with my LG G6 (then again, nothing did, LG is very sensitive or particular with their cables and adapters that I ended up not using these and boxed it). But when I got my S8, I pulled them out of storage and they worked for a little bit, then all eventually stopped working with QuickCharge adapters.

[3 Pack] Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable (3ft) with 56k Ohm Pull-up Resistor for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy S8 S8+, the new MacBook, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, LG V20 G5, and More

You could get anker USB C charger for $15 for 3 instead. I have that and I use it for file transfers and stuff as well as backup if I ever lose my OEM charger for some reason. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1543181691&sr=8-7&keywords=anker+usb+c

Would someone reccomend these or should I look at something else from anker?

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerLine-Pull-up-Resistor-Samsung/dp/B01HF0YGCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538845330&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+c+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41TVmDrqv9L&ref=plSrch

I had the same issue with my '17 Impreza. At first, it started as simply not connecting every time I started the car. Eventually the phones would reboot. I got 3' Anker Powerlines cables and the issue stopped immediately.

This is what I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HF0YGCK