Reddit reviews 3M Auto Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 3 2/3 in x 9 in, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 Assorted Grit Pack, 5 Sheets

Depending on how poor you are and how perfect of a job you want done, you might want to consider some DIY body work. Depending on the depth of the scratch, you might be able to fix it with just some automotive sandpaper (NOT hardware store sandpaper), some polishing compound, and a microfiber cloth.

If the scratches are deep enough that they've gouged out the paint, you'd need to sand, prime, and paint. I'd suggest talking to the good folks over at Bloomington Autocolor - they can fill a spray can with a custom matched color for your car. They can tell you what you need to do, and there are plenty of good Youtube videos as well.

For the dents, sometimes you can pop them out if they're rounded, otherwise you might have to replace the part. You can try a junkyard, or just order online. Depending on how the mirror broke you might be able to do a temp fix with some 2-stage epoxy, otherwise you'll probably want to order a replacement part for that as well.

Also, just because I'm a tutor, the word is "exorbitant", not "absorbent" ;-)

It really depends on what you planning on sharpening. The stone you listed is a 5 in. medium and a 4 in. fine which you will come to find out if you buy it just isn't big enough. Also it really depends on how sharp you want your knives to be. The system you listed has a 400 grit medium and a approximately 1,000 - 1,200 grit fine. However if you don't mind not using a stone you could also use higher grit sandpaper or Polishing Paper but don't just cut into it like the guy did in the video. I like you experiment with different ways of sharpening my knives, my system is as follows; 800 sandpaper, 1,200 stone, 4,000 polishing paper, 6,000 stone, and finish with 2 different leather strop with compound approx. 8,000 - 12,000 grit. Find out what works best for you, Hoped this helped!

3M Assorted.
1000-2500 grit.


Thing is its usually an Add-on item on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JPGTNI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=ANS6PKY1W1HB0F7SC93A

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I use hard Wave sticks too and love them. They sand very flat (something I liked files for) but are quite gentle on the plastic in terms of deap scratches. BUT for some reason the 800 grit is disconnected like in your link. Anyone know where else you can get it?

In terms of files I have the Tamiya basic , Tamiya fine basic , and a (hopefully) nicer plastic hobby file on order just to try. Files are nice for larger jobs like serious molding flaws (not common in Bandai kits) and the fine ones are OK for nubs but still quite rough compared to any sanding stick. Although, as you know I'm sure, files last forever and require much less effort and time to chew through plastic. I'm hoping the plastic file is the Holy grail and is a good balance. I bought a set of needle files and diamond files from harbor freight and they blow. The trash just don't grip or cut don't waste your $3.

And as a reference I own Revell, squadron , nail buff sticks, and have made my own sticks from automotive sand paper. The nail files are way too rough imo, making my own is a pain, and while the squadron sticks are nice I mainly only used the tri-grit while I used all the Revell except the roughest and are probably the best value imo. I still use the other more flexible kinds but dramatically prefer wave. Wish the 800 grit still were available.

Long post sorry. Hope it helps

Edits: spelling, phrasing, and lots of links

Cut with these

Sand with this

Fill in stressed plastic with these

If you don't go too far and cut into the actual part with the file, then not really. It will leave some small scratches, because that's basically how the file removes the nubs, but you can clear those up with a few passes of some really fine grit sandpaper. Something in the 1000+ grit range should do, because it's fine enough that it's basically polishing the piece. Automotive sandpaper usually ranges from 1000-3000 grit, and you can find it at any auto parts store in small multi-grit packages that sell for like $5. Something like this.

More like this pack:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Wetordry-Sandpaper-03006-Assorted/dp/B005JPGTNI

I had a tiny spot on my hood that I left about 5 years ago thats slowly progressed from a dot to circle about an inch wide. I kept saying I was going to find a new hood from the junk yard, but I have yet to find one in good condition & the right color. I should've taken care of it before it grew.

Touch up paint is what you want, I've used that in other areas in the past. Focus your sanding right where its rusted only, try not to sand past it thinking you can blend the paint in. That's only possible if you use a full spray setup and respray the entire area over.

The trouble with touch up is it will never match or look original. So do it while its small to minimize the impact. Check with your dealer to see if they sell a small jar or pen of original factory paint in your color -- if not many places sell it online (color matched / mixed). They should give you a jar of color plus a jar of clear, and you may need to buy your own sandpaper and polish. 3M sells a small sandpaper kit like this: link. Heres the polish I have: link. That will take out any sanding marks after.