Reddit reviews ARCTIC Thermal Pad 145 x 145 x 0.5 mm - Thermal Compound for Coolers, Efficient Thermal Conductivity, Gap Filler, Non-Stick, Safe Handling, Easy to Apply - Blue

I personally use this. It's not the best but the differences are minimal. Check out both /u/Nickthaskater's and my threads about the stress tests we've done.

I wonder how it is you know that's what happened if you were't around to see it. Educated guess? From the looks of it the fan collided with some of the tape edges unpeeling from ther heat and that's what killed your print.

My advice:

Get yourself some borocilicate glass, a thermal pad, and some 5mil PEI w/ 3M adhesive.

• Heat up the bed and peel off the BuildTak.
  
• Stick the PEI on one side of the glass, flip it and put thermal pads on the other side.
  
• Place it on the bed.
  
  With PLA at 60°, PETG at 85°, I have't had anything "not stick" since I installed it, and pieces just pop right out when I need them to. That DiiiCooler could be running at 100% on the first layer and I still get perfect adhesion, and that's without needing to squish the first layer. Plus you get the added bonus of an uncompromizingly flat printing surface at any bed temp.
  
  

I know you're already down this path, but I left my buildtak on and used a thermal pad similar to this one between the surface and glass

This let me leave the existing build surface in case I wanted to go back as well as ensured as even heating as possible. I knew my build surface was at least a little warped so this thermal pad helps full the slightly uneven gaps

Yeah, I believe I'm one of the earliest people who got Blade 15 lol. Here the links for what I used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use Binder clips. They suck though, I've rammed my Bullseye into them a couple times when mesh leveling. I'm on the lookout for something lower profile. I saw one user was using Swiss clips, those seemed pretty good.

The best way I've actually heard of is using thermal pads. This kinda permanently attaches the glass to the bed though. But it gives you the best heating and with nothing on top of the print surface for your nozzle to hit. Only reason I'm not doing this is because I want to attach a different surface to one side of my glass and be able to flip it.

I removed the magnetic part that was attached to the bed so that I could wind up heating the glass faster. When I went to take it off though, my glass was pretty stuck to it. Could easily have printed that way. Since I'll eventually get a PEI or Garolite sheet to stick to the other side of the glass I also won't want the magnet adding another layer between the heater and my actual print surface.

This is the guide I used.

They don't have assembly instructions but if you reverse what you did, you'll be fine.

You'll need a Phillips #0, a TR9 security Torx, and some spudgers. I've done it before without spudgers but its a lot easier to remove the bottom case piece with them. You might also need a pair of small needle nose pliers to help pull various power connectors. Mine were on there really tight so I had to use some, but if yours are looser you can probably do it by hand.

In addition you'll need some thermal paste and some thermal pads.

I used Arctic MX4 2019 Edition but any paste from any of the big names like Grizzly, Noctua, or Arctic should work fine. If you want to really get into it, check out this chart. Pastes near the top perform better than those near the bottom, but you can see that there's only a 1-1.5 degree difference in most pastes, so choose something that's priced right for you. The MX4 was only $8 on Amazon so that's what I went with.

Since I went with Arctic paste I also decided to go with this Arctic thermal pad. I bought the 145x145mm, .5 mm thick and they fit perfectly. I just eyeballed the size and cut them with scissors, but IIRC the actual chip is 9mm by 9mm. You'll want to cut them, peel the plastic off both sides, and apply them. I peel off one side, press them onto the chip, then peel off the other with the needle end of a spudger, but I don't know if that's necessary or preferred. It just worked for me.

For removing the thermal paste you can just use 99% isopropyl alcohol. I've used dedicated paste cleaners in the past and while they work fine, the 99% ISO seems to work just as well, and it's cheap as shit. Head to your local pharmacy and they should have some for a dollar or so.


edit

I should mention that you'll want to avoid any liquid metal pastes, as they'll corrode aluminum and the PS4 heatsink is mostly aluminum.

How about thermal pads? No adhesive or anything: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-4237-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=thermal+pad&qid=1563333137&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I am not sure about double sided tape, I have used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747QV3Y7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this (different printer..but would be the same)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

remember you need/want the heat to transfer from bed through glass to filament.

Here you go!

• https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Compound-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTMNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526504250&sr=8-1&keywords=ARCTIC+-+Thermal+Pad
  
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Compound-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526504250&sr=8-2&keywords=ARCTIC+-+Thermal+Pad
  
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Compound-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526504250&sr=8-3&keywords=ARCTIC+-+Thermal+Pad
  
  Different thicknesses

If CPU temps were idling in the 60's, then trying to cool the VRMs won't help you. You need to clean off the old thermal paste and apply something long lasting and reliable like Arctic MX-4 or Coolermaster Gel Maker Nano. Clean off the old paste with any lint free cloth or coffee liner, and 91%+ alcohol. Then replace with reliable MX-4 (very long lasting) or Gel Maker Nano. Kryonaut is hit and miss with its longevity and may dry out quickly if the heatsink fit and flatness isn't very firm and solid.

For VRM's, use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Thermal-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTXSM/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-4237-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/

You still need to make sure you have something to attach the heatsink to the VRM's though. If it's a simple pin or screw it's easy.

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Just had a look, it's not actually that bad a fit as is.... Hmmm might update you some point!

update
I'm going to get this to sit between the pixel and heatsink as the pixel back isn't completely flat:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ACTPD00002A-Silicone-Thermal-Conductivity-Adapter/dp/B00UYTTLI4

You can buy that thermal pad stuff for next to nothing on Amazon if you mess it up while taking it out. I've had good luck getting the PCB out (and back in) by going slowly and applying constant force.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-4237-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/

This is what I use and my glass doesn't move a muscle
ARCTIC - Thermal Pad, Thermal Compound for Coolers, Highly Efficient Thermal Conductivity,Gap Filler, Safe Handling, Easy to Apply (145mm x 145mm x 0.5 mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTLI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0cYsDbYF4R8ZT

0.5mm thick silicone thermal pad. Cut out some squares of it and arrange around the bed, set glass on top and stick it down. I've used the same bed and thermal material for several years now, never had the bed slip.

Something like https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=silicon+thermal+pad&qid=1564492283&s=gateway&sr=8-6

As far as tools and such, you'll need a splitter cable for the fans (which should be included with the Noctua fans) as well as this: https://www.amazon.com/GELID-SOLUTIONS-PWM-Adapter-Cooler/dp/B005ZKZEQA

That adapter is to connect the bottom mounted fans to the gpu, so you can control the fan speeds using MSI afterburner (overclocking/fan profile program). Besides that, just a screwdriver, microfiber cloth, 99% isopropyl, and these pads if you decide to go the Accelero route: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should also invest in a screwdriver set with small bits, as some of the screws will strip if you try to use too big of a bit. Something like this should be ok: https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=electronics+screwdriver+set&qid=1555887517&s=electronics&sr=1-3

The isopropyl and microfiber cloths are to wipe the cpu/gpu before applying thermal paste to ensure a completely clean surface, as well as clean up already applied thermal paste. DO NOT use paper towels as they will leave residue on the cpu/gpu.

All the things you mentioned about watercooling are why I didn't go that route. Not only maintenance concerns, but if something is installed improperly, you run the risk of destroying your components. It just takes one mistake or loose fitting to potentially destroy everything. Not to scare you from trying it or anything, but that was always a risk I wasn't willing to take.

I have my rear fan mounted to the case as intake, with the U9S blowing air toward the front of the case. I know it sounds stupid to vent hot air into the case, but this is how I get the best temps out of my setup. You might be better off aiming it upward, but I didn't want the bottom fans to be completely starved of air, so I put another 120mm intake fan on the front part of the side bracket to help cool the air coming from the cpu.

I also had the same concerns as you about the feet, and after several days of using the stock feet, I noticed how hot the table was getting underneath the case. I bought some custom feet from here: https://mnpctech.com/ncase-m1-mods/ncase-m1-black-silver-replace-feet/

They are a bit pricey, but I've heard of people buying feet meant for speaker amps that will work as well. They just need to use M3 screws to fit into the stock feet holes on the M1.

Edit: for the second fan, you would mount one on the back of the M1, directly to the case. The second fan would be mounted directly on the cpu heatsink, above the ram. If you're dead set on having that ram, you can always mount the fan a little higher so it clears the ram. Shouldn't be a big deal. If you plan on pointing the U9S toward the top of the case, then it doesn't matter what ram you have.

Edit2: wow thanks for the gold!

these are my go to thermal pads. now the size and thickness you want you'll have to change. I'm not sure what is used by default. https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-4237-Efficient-Conductivity-Handling/dp/B00UYTTLI4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arctic+thermal+pad&qid=1558017525&s=gateway&sr=8-3

What temperature are you getting on the CPU core? Just make sure it is actually the VRM's and not the core.

A 14cm squared shit of thermal pad material is $10. I suggest just forking out and redoing all the VRM's and VRAM chips.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Thermal-Pad-145-0-5/dp/B00UYTTLI4

Not sure what they use specifically, it's probably something really thin.

My guess would be either 0.5mm like this: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Thermal-Pad-145-0-5/dp/B00UYTTLI4/

Or 1mm like this: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Thermal-Pad-1-0-Conductivity/dp/B00UYTTDO6/

You can cut them to whatever length/width you need. But without having the existing one right in front of me, I couldn't really tell you.

If you contact G Skill, they may be able to tell you what they use, or offer to sell a replacement thermal pad.

Thermal paste: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pads:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I stacked 3 layers of thermal pads. I hope this helps!