Reddit reviews E6000 237032 Craft Adhesive, 2 fl oz Clear
We found 24 Reddit comments about E6000 237032 Craft Adhesive, 2 fl oz Clear. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
2 ounce tube of clear adhesivePhoto-safePrintableWasher/dryer safeNon-flammableIndustrial strength, general purpose adhesive that's ideal for bonding wood, fabric, leather, ceramic, glass, metal and moreTemperature resistant: Remains flexible, even in extreme conditionsWaterproof: Bond remains secure even when exposed to water, Dries white and paintable once curedNon-Flammable, Washer/dryer safe and photo safe
For anyone interested I used-
1/2"1/4" Chrome Steel Ball Bearings4mm1/8" x 1/16" Rare Earth MagnetsI used two magnets for the B-Wings instead of a magnet/ball bearing because the weight of the B-Wing on the side was too much to hold it the way a B-Wing should look.
The Dremel obviously made the job easier than using wire-cutters to snip the pegs down which is what I saw most people use. It also was used to sand down and make a nice flat surface for ball bearing and magnet mounting.
I dremeled off the peg stands as close to the ships as possible, to maintain as close a center of weight as possible.
The one problem I did not anticipate was the 'spinning' effect most ships had when placed on the ball bearing. To solve this, I used the thumb tack to draw a very small, thin line of epoxy down the center of the magnet to create a friction line that kept the ship in place no matter how I placed it, i.e. 'barrel rolling'
It was a fun challenge and the bearings and magnets were about $10 (100 pieces) each and the dremel I just happened to have anyway, but it goes for around $30 at home depot.
Next step - Large Ships (And possibly the transport??)
edit - corrected material sizes
Links to exactly what I ordered
Magnets
Ball Bearings
Epoxy
I used E6000 to bond the Prusa test print to my aluminum light bar and it seems to be holding well.
https://www.amazon.com/E6000-237032-Craft-Adhesive-Clear/dp/B004BPHQWU
Run some masking tape along the crack on the front side of the surround. Apply a small amount of pressure to the backside of the surround with your finger as you do this to line the crack up as close as possible.
Use a small paint brush and apply E6000 glue to the backside of the crack on the surround.
Make sure to spread the glue evenly over he entire backside of the surface and not just along the area where it is cracked.
You can do the entire backside of the surround if your afraid the surround is dry rotting or worried other cracks may appear.
https://www.amazon.com/E6000-237032-Craft-Adhesive-Clear/dp/B004BPHQWU
Don’t worry about applying any glue to he frontside of the surround. Applying it to the backside will be plenty and if you do a good job you will barely be able to tell there was a crack in the surround once you remove the tape from the front side of the surround.
Make sure you remove the tape after the glue fully dries.
Good luck!
This stuff is like a rock. Take your broken piece and glue it back on. This glue is clear, waterproof, and flexible.
E6000 is a fantastic repair tool. I keep it in the top flap of my ruck and use it for everything short of sexual lubricant. http://www.amazon.com/E6000%C2%AE-Craft-Adhesive-2-oz/dp/B004BPHQWU
Hey man I kinda had the same problem as you, my stem cracked in 2 mid session (was still usable but hella wobbly when you pulled) and the hose adapter it came with also split. I tried super glue and scotch tape but they never held till I got some of this stuff E6000.
Only $3 and they aren't kidding when they say industrial strength. Just a heads up for a possible cheap solution to your problem!
E-6000 is a popular glass glue, I've also heard good things about Glass-bond.
Silicone is also a good option.
Yes! Finishing PLA. I know this! :D
Glue:
For quick projects I just use a glue gun, but for more permanent glue, E6000 seems to work pretty well.
Sanding:
Standard emery boards/nail files for little rough areas, and a Dremel with the Dremel 428 Carbon Steel Brush for the harder stuff (like on the blue pieces in your photoset)
Surface Prep for Paint
Spray Paint Primer with Filler. Srsly. Need it smoother? Sand, spray, repeat until happy.
Paint
Want some easy fool-proof spray paint? This specific line of Rust-oleum seems to be fool proof: Rustoleum Metallic Spray. Results are amazingly smooth and shiny. It's a thick paint and seems to fill in any remaining gaps left. Use light coats for coverage, then a couple heavy ones. Seems to dry fast too.
I've had three instances where something on one of my figures broke.
For all three, I used E6000 and haven't had any problems.
I asked hyph, here you go!
he said it's not white but that's what he uses
[E6000] (https://www.amazon.com/E6000-237032-Craft-Adhesive-Clear/dp/B004BPHQWU) and a toothpick.
no separation on these. I've had to fix other pairs of AM1's though, especially the sole coming off of the toe area. e6000 works great for it. they sell it at Michaels craft stores if you are in the US and don't want to wait for shipping. good luck
Thank you! So I just removed everything, the dash lid and the center console lid; fortunately they both had a separate section underneath that could be unscrewed where I was able to tuck away the excess fabric. I cleaned it really well with 99% isopropyl alcohol (this discolored the vinyl or whatever it was, so if you intend on taking it off and going back to stock I would advise to maybe just use dish soap). I found the fabric I wanted - Pendleton wool which is a high quality wool from the Pacific Northwest if you haven't heard of it. Since it is constantly exposed to sun, I would advise going with a higher quality fabric in hopes it would minimize fading quickly. After cleaning the area, I used Elmers Craftbond Adhesive but if I do it again I would use something stronger like a 3M product... maybe even 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. Spray that over the large surface area where you will be applying the fabric, you have a little time before it sets so spray and apply your fabric but get it centered and positioned where you want rather quickly --- this is the time you will also want to stretch it out to avoid ripples in the fabric. Finally I used a hot glue gun but any craft Adhesive would work to secure the fabric corners and edges that were tucked away under the cosmetic area -- again I was able to unscrew a plastic piece where I applied the hot glue/adhesive to secure the fabric better. I cut away the excess fabric and screwed it all together which also helped make the fabric taut. Be generous with the initial aerosol fabric adhesive on the cosmetic side - depending on how thick the fabric is you might want to be careful to not soak a thin fabric with it. I used enough that I could slightly feel the adhesive through the wool but it didn't affect anything. The corners were tough, but I let the spray adhesive dry and it allowed me to pull on it to make it a lot more taut which got the ripples out as well as letting me square the edges and apply the hot glue. Sorry for making this super long - I might be making it sound difficult, but it actually was really easy to do. Shit now that I think about it, I used some forum walk through to do it - I'll try to find it and post an edit with it.
Edit: fixed links and added walk through I found on a Subaru forum, he used seat fabric from an STI but go to any fabric store and pick out your own! You could probably also add a foam layer in between to pad your elbow - I'm sure you could also find that at a fabric store or even Amazon. My next project is actually to go to my wood elf father in law and make a modified center console lid and then wrap that with Pendleton wool, I want to add a cup holder and a few other things - maybe an area to stash my CB and some camping gear.
This glue is an add-on at $3.21 and I hear it is awesome crafting glue.
Every day is a new day to learn something and I wasn't aware of the fabric glue til a couple of days ago. This is the e 6000 glue I was referring to. http://www.amazon.com/E6000-237032-Craft-Adhesive-Clear/product-reviews/B004BPHQWU
For roll up curtains if you use velcro you can probably arrange it to seal at the bottom then put in additional velcro at the top to secure it when it's rolled up. I've been using reflectix by itself and it rolls up nicely, basically it's bubble wrap with an aluminized coating on each side. Regarding black fabric, of course one wants to find something to reflect heat so lighter fabrics would be best. Light gray was the best compromise while also blending into the tinted black of the windows.
Here's a pic of the interior with reflectix
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOmqSZDgiEPuLRYXJMawIrLEDrQdhKBpqX06tRd
And then the curtains as they are now. The curtain pic was taken around 7am so you can see how it dims down the light nicely.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipO4e8ST8IpImqUJkEZY0mK-_3isgr0yJFVEdEpm8MyNMROyWS8Meo7tgt8gG6gzQw?key=OEE0UzdXeUR2SDBlVEVYSm90bU9qVy1LQUsteVhB
A huge thank you to /u/n1njachicken for advice on canvases and mounting, and the inspiration for using a comic book as a background collage.
Started these about a month ago and they have rapidly become my favorite hobby.
I bought canvases from Michaels craft store. Used 1 2.0oz tube of E600 adhesive to mount all of them them onto the canvases/magnets. I use mod podge to glue the star trek comic book and the minecraft printed wallpaper to the canvas. All the paints are $0.50 acrylic cheapo paints, and I just did multiple (3 or 4) coats to fully cover the white canvas.
Still getting used to ironing, but they have definitely gotten better over time.
Edit: The pictures are really good at making the blemishes and accidental glue droplets extremely visible. They look a lot better in person.
I painted both solid then glued them in place with E6000 glue.
E6000 237032 Craft Adhesive, 2 fl oz Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BPHQWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fBXYDbBPBHRPG
If you want to permanently affix it, I would clean both surfaces thoroughly then put a strong adhesive like E6000 on there (https://www.amazon.com/E6000-237032-Craft-Adhesive-Clear/dp/B004BPHQWU). That stuff sticks to anything.
Seconding the vote for E6000
Start with one of these, and one of these, then add a little of this, and a little of that, and Presto!! Steve Drive!
What material did you print them in? PLA you can heat treat to strengthen it and that will also induce some shrinking. If you're careful with application there's also E6000 as well.
Thanks! I ended up going this route but had about 1" of clearance so i took 5 layers of the shims and used a strong adhesive (there are probably better ones but its what i had) to layer them. Seems to work pretty well so far
Side
Front
Superglue won't do it. Probably need some kind of little brace and some glue
E6000 237032 Craft Adhesive, 2 oz, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BPHQWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LDQoxbN0TY5HT
I've been using this stuff lately and it works really good. It's a lot thicker than super glue
I also support taking it to the store, BUT....
For people that wonder how they would fix it themselves, I’d recommend E6000. I use it for prop building (mainly lightsabers).