Reddit reviews Freud 10" x 40T Next Generation Premier Fusion General Purpose Blade for Crosscuts (3/8" to 3-1/2") & Rips (3/4" to 1-1/2") wood, laminate, veneered plywood, hardwoods & melamine. (P410)

Proper blade for the task at hand is honestly more important than the brand of blade itself, so long as you aren't going like $10 cheap, but with modern metallurgy and tooling even the cheap stuff can get the job done, just might not be built to super high tollerances and might not stay sharp as long, also not really worth having them sharpened as they are cheap.

What your goal with the tool in question. I find that a lot of people tend to use the tablesaw to get it close to final dimensions, then run an end over the jointer and then through the planer to get proper thickness. If that's the case then you don't need to spend $120 on a forrest glue line rip blade and something like the $50 freud or even a cheaper diablo will be fine.

Personally I use a Forrest 20T ripping blade when I'm batching out a bunch of repetitive rips and want it all glue ready off the saw without the added step of running it over the jointer again, but I've also got a very nice cabinet saw that I know gives me glue ready rips with that blade and it's properly tuned. If I was using a jobsite saw I don't think I'd ever trust it to give glue ready rps off the saw.
On ripping one thing I will say is if you've got an underpowered saw then look at thin kerf blades for ripping hardwood.

That said I've usually got this 40T Freud general purpose combo blade in the saw as it rips and crosscuts fine for the one off things or during a single project.

I've got an 80T chopmaster forrest blade in my miter saw that's great, honestly I'd put the money in this if you're wondering which one to spend money on first. I've found most people cross cut stock to final length on the miter and I've never had an issue with tearout on this.

I had a 48T crosscut Forrest blade that I used to leave in, but got the Freud one for free and honestly I don't notice a difference when cross cutting. Also have a 100T blade meant for veneer or other like materials, but hardly ever use it.

In terms of Circular saws it kind of goes by the same logic. If you ever see a carpenter that does work on site they will probably have a bunch of different blades from very low tooth to high tooth. My circular saw just has a 32T general purpose blade in it and I've never bothered to change it, don't do finish cuts with it and honestly it's mostly only used if I'm doing stuff on site or need to make large initial cuts on timber framing which I'll clean up later. It's the festool branded blades, not sure who manufacturers those for them, but they are pretty good quality.

For my track saw I've got a 16T blade (was what festool offered, I know there are non festool brands that make blades that fit the festool specific arbor though) that's almost exclusively used for ripping slabs, and a 52T blade for when I'm crosscutting slabs or breaking down sheetgoods, although on the sheetgood thing I usually always make final cuts on the tablesaw and just use the tracksaw to make it more manageable to get on the tablesaw.

Finally for Daddo stacks I bit the bullet and bought one of the Forrest Dado kings (they run like $375) when I got my cabinet saw. Have never tried the cheaper brands as the saw I had before my cabinet saw couldn't accept daddo stacks unless I were to modify it.

Amazon, Timbecon or Carbatec. The Diablo blades are OK for the price that they're sold in the US, but not the price they're sold in AU.

I'm using a Freud Fusion blade - its not cheap, but top notch quality. Edit: https://www.amazon.com.au/Premier-Fusion-General-Purpose-P410/dp/B000JNTG76/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=freud+fusion&qid=1572942949&sr=8-2

oof, its gone up in price a bit because of the weak AUD since I bought it - there may be places that have it cheaper locally. However, thats the premium brand, and Diablo is Freud's budget brand. Bunnings sells some Diablo blades up at that price!

I recommend this blade. It makes fantastic cuts, even on plywood, but I typically make two passes on plywood one on either side.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410-Premier-10-Inch-PermaShield/dp/B000JNTG76

Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150


Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275


Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80


Wilton 15” drill press $100


Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip

Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #


Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.


Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.


Angle block set for machine setup $30


Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total


Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80



This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.

the first two blades i purchased for my saw was a freud glue line rip and a freud ultimate crosscut. I used the crappy blade that came with my saw for cutting shop plywood and 2x4s. I recently bought a Freud combo blade that works really well. this is the combo blade I bought. If your tablesaw is under-powered, I recommend a thin kerf rip blade. HTH.

> Woodworker II 40T

Wow, that blade is more expensive than my saw. What's the second best blade? :)

Based on the Woodworker II specs, it looks like this from Freud might produce similar results at a lower cost.