Best circualr saw blades according to redditors
We found 240 Reddit comments discussing the best circualr saw blades. We ranked the 101 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 240 Reddit comments discussing the best circualr saw blades. We ranked the 101 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If he uses what most large scale carvers use, it actually is remarkably similar to a chain saw...just a disc that fits an angle grinder with sharpenable teeth like those of a chain saw blade. Example: Lancelot
A single blade, with or without contractor pricing. But you can't get a tablesaw blade worth buying at Home Depot.
Edit: Pretty much anything made by Forrest, but get the right blade for the job. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ
We buy them locally, but getting them online isn't too much more expensive.
No and yes. I would rank it just below this in terms of "products responsible for wrongful death suits"
It is of course, or at least I am led to believe by late night TV, not as dangerous as trans-vaginal mesh though.
I don't even like using a dremel with a cutoff wheel. That being said this thing looks just as bad. Woodcarving Disk
I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.
Zero clearance insert
Dado zero clearance insert
That dado stack is decent. Not great, but OK. This one is a lot better and the best bargain dado stack
Irwin Marples 50 tooth blade. Lowes sells these if you don't want to order online. I have a few dozen table saw blades. This is by far the best blade short of a Woodworker II or Tenryu Gold Medal.
If you plan on working with 5/4+ hardwoods, get a 24 tooth diablo rip blade. It makes a big difference
Start with one GR Rripper
if you don't have a dial indicator, get one. You'll need it to adjust for runout
Decide on dust collection. You'll need to install the shroud if you use it, or leave it off if you don't. It's a huge pain in the ass to install after the fact, but can be done. A shop vac isn't recommended, but if you decide to give it a shot, you'll need a 4" to 2.5" reducer. Something like this will keep up pretty well if you just wanted to bite the bullet.
Decide how you are going to cross cut. I prefer a sled, some like a miter gauge. The included one sucks.
Osborne EB3 or the Incra 1000/HD
Every single time, before you hit the ON button count your fingers and remind yourself a razor sharp blade will be spinning at 3450 rpm in the area your hands are about to travel. Two more inserts for angled blade and dado use would be good.
Invest in a Forrest Woodworker II and a blade dampener. You will never be sorry and they have the best sharpening/rehab service you will find. It will last you a long time. http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372303400&sr=8-1&keywords=forrest+blade+10+inch
I've only done them for 2 or 3 pieces so far, but you can do a good shaker with cope and stick style. This video from saw stop does a decent job of summarizing things, but do additional googleing to get all the details.
https://youtu.be/d-fCL-ZAVWs
Also, get a ftg rip blade for cutting the groove, any bevel will make it impossible to get a good tight fit. Here is the one I use with good success (then you have a real rip blade too!) I'd totally recommend the thin kerf if you have a 1.5hp or less saw.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225UH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468094452&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Freud+thin+kerf+ftg+rip
I can only imagine the possible kick out when using one of these chain saw grinding wheels
I use a Freud non-ferrous blade and it cuts through aluminum extrusion with ease and leaves a very nice finish on the cut.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are also cheaper brands that probably cut almost as well.
Freud 8" Stacked Dado Set for All Saws (SD208S)
Amazon link
I used this on mine and get mirror finish cuts on my extrusions, I can't recommend this blade enough.
I really like the oshlun dado set. I have had it for years and it still works great. Not sure how big of a table saw you have but an 8 inch dado stack will put a lot of strain on the motor. A six inch version will be plenty for most woodworkers.
I have 6" from Oshlun that are truly the best value. I also have 8" Forrest Dado King which are very nice, but debatable over whether they are worth the money.
If you are going to do a ton of Fine Wood Working dados then get the Forrest, but otherwise the Oshlun is where the money should go.
Oh wow!!...i was told multiple times that this saw can not use dado blades because the arbor is not long enough and will be dangerous.
From my research, this is the only dado type blade recommended for this saw.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-20T-Joint-Cutter-SBOX8/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524675332&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+box+joint+blade+set&dpID=41gLWd92QVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Glad to see dado blades working out for you!
I picked up the Freud SD208 from Amazon.
Freud 8" Stacked Dado Set for All Saws (SD208S)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MJ2V9J?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I’ve only done one test with it so far... making a half lap on a 4x4 for a bench leg. Not very impressed with the cut surface. Looks to be some tear out and small grooves. I need to sort out what is causing that before I continue.
This saw was struggling with the stack at max width though, so maybe it could be a result of sub optimal RPM?
I had your exact problem with my Dewalt DWE7480 (just a bit newer version of your saw).
[This] (https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-Grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524245560&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+box+joint+cutter+set) is what you're looking for.
It's obviously not as ideal as a full dado stack, but gets the job done. I used it for cutting tenons on 8/4 stock and it leaves a nice clean/straight cut.
I purchased this one. It cuts perfectly smooth bottoms and clean sides. Cheaper than most, and the quality is better than some of the upper end names that I've checked out.
I'm using it on a Ridgid R4510, so it's a 10" similar to your Hitachi.
The first thing I did was build a finger/comb/box joint sled, and built a jewelry box for the wife.
A high quality blade will make a big difference. I use freud blades and love them. You could use a general purpose blade if you make both rip and cross cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466877982&sr=8-6&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade
If you make a lot of rip cuts https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466878111&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade+glue+line+rip is amazing.
I use thin kerf as i had a crappy table saw in the past and its easier on the saw.
I haven’t used one of these, but they make a lot of angle grinder attachments. I imagine something like this would be good for roughing.
Assuming you want a 10-in diameter ripping blade, then here are a couple options:
Freud LM72R010 for $58:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225UD
Kempston 99312 for $33:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013KTUQ6
I just bought this and am very happy with it.
Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_X8n1wbG1NCXW4
I also have the polished Freud SD208 and have been very happy.
That's beginner level.
I calculate the size by choosing either the 3/8" or 1/4" setup on my box joint cutter set and then adjust the depth of the fingers to the board thickness. If you're just using a normal table saw blade, the size of your joints could be based more on artistic preference than functionality. Similar to how dovetails are hand cut based on the desired appearance.
You can build a workbench with a drill and a circular saw (and a tape measure and square if you don't have either of those).
You can get a decent new circular saw for $50-60, and a much better quality blade for $14, which I would highly recommend, as the manufacturers tend to put crap blades at the factory.
This will show you how to make a crosscutting jig and a simple workbench.
I have the same saw and my go-to blades are Diablo.
Freud D1060X Diablo 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB Fine Finish Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1UNkybP6DN0CR
LeatheL has spot on advice, but don't forget if you ever plan on using a sled set-up you may find you don't have enough depth from a 6" set.
For what it's worth, I have been using a Freud 8" set since 2002, the teeth are all in great shape, I clean them when I have been cutting exotic woods like Jatoba or blackwood, or when they start to get a gummy build up. My 2 hp contractor saw has a hard time taking full passes set at 3/4" width, My 5hp cabinet saw has no problem taking full depth cuts at max width, but it leaves burn marks, so I always take a couple of passes.
This is the set I have had for 12+ years, if I upgrade it will be to the Freud SuperStack 8"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004RK0P&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6H0FQEW8YNTCZQ1BJ4
I don't think you'd regret the Kobalt! It's not going to be to the level of the Ridgid or Dewalt (and certainly not a Bosch or SawStop) but as long as you're aware you're getting an excellent saw for ~$200, and not a contractor/professional grade saw, you'll be happy.
If it seemed nice to you in the store that's a good sign. Be aware that with cheaper saws, you sometimes have to do some work to get them to work smoothly: things like greasing slide points, or waxing the table to make sure wood glides on it.
The other thing is that a new, high quality blade makes an unbelievable amount of difference! If you can afford $35 for another blade (no worries if you can't, the one that comes with it will still cut!) a good 50 tooth or 60 tooth combination blade will make an average saw give you some pretty amazing results. I use this one for $35 and absolutely love it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ30
Copying the link from the other comment, woodcarvers use monsters like this all the time:
https://www.amazon.com/King-Arthur-Tools-Lancelot-Woodcarving/dp/B00004RHL6
Par for the course.
You can use this set for the 7480 and 745. It's been sitting in my wish list waiting for a project where I need it.
Freud 8" x 20T Box Joint Cutter Set (SBOX8)
I have the same saw and I use the Freud SD208
Were you expecting something like this? That goes on an angle grinder by the way
Bummer. Seems like a pretty good price though, especially for canuckistan.
This got me looking at Freud industrial blades in the US with a flat cut and led me to this.. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B0000225V8
Thin kerf version here: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA
You’ve got a fence, right? If so, buy a decent blade, watch a few safety vids and go for it.
You’ll figure out what needs to be fixed as you go along.
Try to spend more time working wood than getting your tools perfect.
Here’s a good blade to start: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CcqyCbGEFW31T
Amazon, Timbecon or Carbatec. The Diablo blades are OK for the price that they're sold in the US, but not the price they're sold in AU.
I'm using a Freud Fusion blade - its not cheap, but top notch quality. Edit: https://www.amazon.com.au/Premier-Fusion-General-Purpose-P410/dp/B000JNTG76/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=freud+fusion&qid=1572942949&sr=8-2
oof, its gone up in price a bit because of the weak AUD since I bought it - there may be places that have it cheaper locally. However, thats the premium brand, and Diablo is Freud's budget brand. Bunnings sells some Diablo blades up at that price!
What are people's thoughts on this dado set and this thin kerf blade? I just got both for early Christmas gifts, but it's not too late to return them to Amazon for other options if these won't be great.
For a blade, buy a high tooth count plywood blade, also called a "finish" blade. This will give you the cleanest cut. Something like this for a circular saw: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0760X-Diablo-Finish-4-Inch/dp/B001CZEU0S
Keep in mind that you'll get cleaner cuts and less tear out if you cut with the grain than across in plywood. And yeah, quality plywood is expensive. Shop around and maybe there's a cheaper supplier near you.
One suggestion: since you'll be doing a ton of these, might be worthwhile to buy some cheap plywood and make a couple of test ones and practice before you buy the expensive stuff. For joinery, glue+brads is quite strong, glue+screws would be a little bit stronger but slower to assemble. Personally, I'd use brads. Once you build the carcase and put the full back on it neither will rack.
I'd recommend a combination blade. Works great for someone getting started. Changing blades is a hassle https://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FS75W1HYKCW1CS1P4VTB
The absolute fastest way to grind out part of the log is to buy an attachment for an angle grinder. Stuff like this and this are pretty much geared towards grinding crap out.
There's the reason why the Forrest WWII 40t blade sells like hotcakes.
Why build a chainsaw when you can buy one of these ?
I got a 8" set from Oshlun for Christmas. I can't wait to use them! http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8-Inch-Tooth-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q
I've liked the rip cuts I get from my Freud thin kerf rip blades.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-2&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade
The thin blade eats less wood and for underpowered saws like mine works well.
I prefer the FTG blade because it's a little more aggressive and doesn't leave the tiny triangle of wood in the corners if you use it for a non through cut. Not an issue for re saws though.
A general purpose blade (even the fancy Forrest) won't solve your problem--it still has too many teeth for ripping thick hardwoods efficiently on a <3HP saw. I lost count of how many times I stopped the blade when ripping moderate-hardness woods like Walnut and Soft Maple on my last table saw, which was comparable to yours.
The glue-line-rip is a one trick pony. You're looking for a general use rip blade.
I would recommend the 24T Freud Industrial Thin Kerf Rip (not diablo).
BTW, the "3HP" on your saw is marketing nonsense--you can't get more than about 1.75HP out of a 120V/15A circuit.
Proper blade for the task at hand is honestly more important than the brand of blade itself, so long as you aren't going like $10 cheap, but with modern metallurgy and tooling even the cheap stuff can get the job done, just might not be built to super high tollerances and might not stay sharp as long, also not really worth having them sharpened as they are cheap.
What your goal with the tool in question. I find that a lot of people tend to use the tablesaw to get it close to final dimensions, then run an end over the jointer and then through the planer to get proper thickness. If that's the case then you don't need to spend $120 on a forrest glue line rip blade and something like the $50 freud or even a cheaper diablo will be fine.
Personally I use a Forrest 20T ripping blade when I'm batching out a bunch of repetitive rips and want it all glue ready off the saw without the added step of running it over the jointer again, but I've also got a very nice cabinet saw that I know gives me glue ready rips with that blade and it's properly tuned. If I was using a jobsite saw I don't think I'd ever trust it to give glue ready rps off the saw.
On ripping one thing I will say is if you've got an underpowered saw then look at thin kerf blades for ripping hardwood.
That said I've usually got this 40T Freud general purpose combo blade in the saw as it rips and crosscuts fine for the one off things or during a single project.
I've got an 80T chopmaster forrest blade in my miter saw that's great, honestly I'd put the money in this if you're wondering which one to spend money on first. I've found most people cross cut stock to final length on the miter and I've never had an issue with tearout on this.
I had a 48T crosscut Forrest blade that I used to leave in, but got the Freud one for free and honestly I don't notice a difference when cross cutting. Also have a 100T blade meant for veneer or other like materials, but hardly ever use it.
In terms of Circular saws it kind of goes by the same logic. If you ever see a carpenter that does work on site they will probably have a bunch of different blades from very low tooth to high tooth. My circular saw just has a 32T general purpose blade in it and I've never bothered to change it, don't do finish cuts with it and honestly it's mostly only used if I'm doing stuff on site or need to make large initial cuts on timber framing which I'll clean up later. It's the festool branded blades, not sure who manufacturers those for them, but they are pretty good quality.
For my track saw I've got a 16T blade (was what festool offered, I know there are non festool brands that make blades that fit the festool specific arbor though) that's almost exclusively used for ripping slabs, and a 52T blade for when I'm crosscutting slabs or breaking down sheetgoods, although on the sheetgood thing I usually always make final cuts on the tablesaw and just use the tracksaw to make it more manageable to get on the tablesaw.
Finally for Daddo stacks I bit the bullet and bought one of the Forrest Dado kings (they run like $375) when I got my cabinet saw. Have never tried the cheaper brands as the saw I had before my cabinet saw couldn't accept daddo stacks unless I were to modify it.
Even better, get this chainsaw tool attachment for your angle grinder. It goes through material like butter, it's magical. Then finish with a sand wheel or belt sander.
I'm currently using the Freud glue line rip blade https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001V5J4QY?pc_redir=T1 and I just ripped a bunch of maple, walnut, purple heart, cherr and Pau Amarello with minimal burning and a smooth surface. I think that's probably the best blade for that price range.
If you don't want to change your blade for crosscuts or rip cuts get a combo. I use the Diablo D1050X the price is right and let's be honest, your gonna sand anyway I don't care how good the cut is, it ain't gonna be no 220 grit finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w
So I just bought a new table saw recently. I'm kind of following a similar track of 'upgrading' it with goodies.
Here's what I have to go along with my TS:
Next thing I'm going to make is a bunch of ZCIs, I figure this will come in handy for my next set of projects that will require the dado stack. I don't yet have an outfeed table (limited space), but my latest issue of WOOD has a cool mobile folding one that doubles as a scrap storage cart.
If you don't have a crosscut sled yet, I would make that first. They are made from inexpensive materials, and can be as simple or complex as you like them to be. My first crosscut sled for my old POS tablesaw was made from scrap ply and a chunk of scrap 2x4; it was ugly and kind of crummy, but it did the job. My second version is much nicer, with contoured and shaped fences and much more accurate using the 5 cut method. More sophisticated versions have built in stop blocks, tape measures, or T-tracks for adjustable inserts. I use my sled on just about every single project, as both my miter and circular saw are kind of inaccurate, and not great at making super accurate crosscuts. Plus, if you don't have a dado stack, you can use a crosscut sled to make rabbets and dados across the grain by making repeated cuts. It will take longer, but gets the job done.
Good luck!
http://www.lowes.com/pd_89913-46069-PCB220TS_0__?productId=3163783
with a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
You'll be fine.... I have a 36-725 and use a Freud P410T on it with no problems, it's .091, you just have to make sure it's aligned properly and you'll be all set.
This one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
For nearly the same price as the big box Diablo's, the Freud branded Industrial line is supposed to be longer lasting. I just ordered the 50 tooth from Amazon Link
Here is the HD Diablo equivalent Link
It's really going to come down to you using it, if it's making bad cuts then it might be worth exchanging for another to see if the issue persists or if maybe it's supposed to be that way. I just checked amazon canada and they have an Olshun for $77 in the warehouse, might be worth a shot--often times when I order there it's just the packaging that got beat up but the items are pretty much new
I second this. The thin kerf ones are really nice. I use this one specifically for cutting veneered plywood when I can't use my tablesaw. They have a non-stick coating that makes them rather nice.
If you have a tablesaw then the hands down answer is Forest.
Can't decide on which Dado set. Have decided to go with 6" for my 1 1/4 HP saw. But can't decide between Ohslun and the Freud. Just tell me what to do.
Ya, the table saw guard is a combination splitter, blade guard as well as pawls on either side to prevent the workpiece from reversing direction. When I was first starting to use it I made some dumb mistakes and shot some small boards right past me because I got mine used and it didn't come with part of the guard assembly. Fortunately I had watched enough safety videos and things to know to stay out of the way of the blade so it did not hit me, but still was not a pleasant experience. I have since bought the missing piece and use the splitter and guard whenever I can.
As far as a multipurpose blade, I went with a combination blade so I don't have to change blades when doing rips vs. cross cuts. This is the one I got:
http://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407533481&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=diablo+10%22+blade
I have found it to cut plenty clean for my needs.
Lancelot is what you use. I do quite a bit of log work and there's nothing better to shape than than this tool.
And yes, it's extremely dangerous...and fun :)
Just about any blade, when new and sharp, will do what you want.
Burn marks are not always about the blade itself. Burn marks can be made by a misaligned fence, a misaligned blade, a dirty/clogged blade, or improper feed rate. A good splitter with the correct kerf will also help with reducing burn marks.
If you are looking for a blade recommendation, after upgrading to a Forrest Wood Worker II, I will never use a "budget" blade again (unless I plan to cut something that could wreck the blade). Some guys say they are over priced. I actually have two of them - one on the saw, and one to send in for sharpening when it dulls. I get them sharpened from the Forrest factory, which isn't cheap, but they come back just like new.
If i may make a suggestion, try upgrading the blade to something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/D1080X-Diablo-10-Inch-80-tooth-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395690884&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=freud+saw+blade
a good blade is one of the best ways to upgrade a tool.
It kind of depends on the saw you have. If it is a portable saw buy the .091 kerf here:https: //smile.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=pd_sim_469_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMMS6DY84H49CKS4C9GW
If it is a bigger saw that can handle the load buy this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000225V8/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B00020JOAA
Both are great blades and the full kerf gives a much better cut on a full size saw but the smaller saws can't handle removing that much material. I use the thin kerf in my "jobsite" saw. I use Freud's 1/8" kerf line of blades in my cabinet saw. You can have them sharpened 3-4 times for about $12 each time.
Not a Freud but this is my combo blade that almost never comes out of the saw:
https://www.sliversmill.com/product_665_10x40_Tooth_Thin_Kerf_WOODWORKER_II_6_for_NEAR_FLAT_BOTTOM_.html
If I'm ripping hardwood longer than 30 inches and thicker than 4/4, then I switch to:
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Blade-Arbor-LM75R010/dp/B001V5J4QY
Which is a Freud and works very well.
A miter gauge with a sacrificial fence would work, that way you wouldn't lose the 1/2 - 3/4" sled thickness. You don't want to plane plywood.
Otherwise you should really get an 8" stack, or regular 10" blade with a FTG(Flat Tooth Grind). http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM72R010-10-Inch-Ripping-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UD
http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-35-611-10-Inch-Ripping-8-Inch/dp/B0000223E9
Found it:
Freud D1080N Diablo 10-Inch 80 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ38/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Z0pFxbGAPHV0Y
(I think someone else linked it below too)
Works great though. It gives a very smooth and clean finish without any fuss. In fact, I just used it last weekend on some C-Beam from Open builds.
Don't forget to always clamp your work for best results and to account for the blade curf in your measurements
If you only paid $30 bucks for the saw and the motor is good sink some money into a good blade, possible thin kerf. That dewalt blade that is in there is a piece of shit.
This should do quite nicely.
It was the weekly sticky thread, I couldn’t find anything in the wiki either. Recommended one, which I like was an Oshlun. Cheap one was a Mibro.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1060X-10-Inch-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade&amp;qid=1564076055&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=freud+10&amp;sr=8-4.
Not thin kerf but i think you'll have better luck than one with less teeth
I just don't really see the point of a think kerf blade unless your saw is really underpowered. All of my rip cuts have gotten way better since I switched.
https://www.amazon.com/Freud-24T-Heavy-Duty-Blade-LM72M010/dp/B00004T78V
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
> Woodworker II 40T
Wow, that blade is more expensive than my saw. What's the second best blade? :)
Based on the Woodworker II specs, it looks like this from Freud might produce similar results at a lower cost.
I am assuming I could bring bunch of angle grinder wheels alongside. Like for instance this thing as well: https://www.amazon.com/King-Arthurs-Tools-45822-Lancelot/dp/B0000224SJ
It would not only let you cut down trees, but you could also make stuff like this with it: https://i.imgur.com/5CSCi8E.jpg
Also assuming there is a plain wreck somewhere you could use the other wheels to salvage and make other tools with it.
Angle grinders are incredibly versatile.
Interesting, I see a lot of videos on this topic including this one and this other one. Would this be a good blade? I also see this thin kerf model, but I have a 3HP table saw and I'm not worried about 1/32" of extra waste, and I assume the non-thin-kerf is more durable.
I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.
If you do attempt this on your machine, you will want a thin-kerf rip blade, 20-30 teeth. The thin kerf will reduce the load on your machine.
Heres a decent Freud one for under 40 bucks from Amazon.
I've watched my dad do this quite a few times. He takes a drill and drills depth holes every few inches to get the profile of the seat defined. Then after that he uses an angle grinder attachment like this to rough out the shape down to where the drill holes end. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_L7m5wb6709E6B
From there he usually finishes up with a random orbital sander.
The size of the kerf really starts to add up when making these.
If you plan to keep making more of these, investing in a good thin kerf blade is a great idea. It can save you over an inch in both the length and width.
Blade I use: http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457022120&amp;sr=1-17&amp;keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch
As far as the dado is concerned, I grabbed one of these with great success. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8
I've got a DeWalt DWE7480, and my only complaint about it is the short arbor that can't use dado blades (with a handful of exceptions apparently, although I don't have a set yet). The fence and fence lock are fantastic. The dust collection leaves something to be desired too, but that's not a surprise or in any way unusual for a small portable saw.
You also might want to try a different blade. Something with deeper gullets to clear chips faster and bigger teeth to dissipate heat. Something more like this
I am looking at this Freud set. How is it? Link
Never mind my suggestion, it'll probably ruin your veneer.
Depending on the finish needed, you might want to switch to using a blade with less teeth - something made more for ripping.
A smaller blade, with just as many teeth won't be any cheaper to resharpen.
I just got the following blade (Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth - http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381425527&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=freud+lu87), so I can't commend on its longevity, but it seems more suited to your needs.
Should be at least half as expensive to resharpen.
I have a Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade in my amazon wish list (for my table saw). Everyone seems to love them...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z
the first two blades i purchased for my saw was a freud glue line rip and a freud ultimate crosscut. I used the crappy blade that came with my saw for cutting shop plywood and 2x4s. I recently bought a Freud combo blade that works really well. this is the combo blade I bought. If your tablesaw is under-powered, I recommend a thin kerf rip blade. HTH.
For a general purpose blade I would recommend one. They are cheap but still decent quality and good for 90% of your cuts. I have this one and have no complaints as a hobbyist
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HFBSzbCZA2EXX
Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150
Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275
Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80
Wilton 15” drill press $100
Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip
Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #
Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.
Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.
Angle block set for machine setup $30
Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total
Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80
This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.
I have the same saw and I bought this for it -- https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Ripping-Blade-LU87R010/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506016279&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch
I like the thin kerf as you don't have to worry about it bogging down if you cut anything thick, and I do mostly rip cuts. I've ripped and cross cut plywood with a thin maple veneer and haven't had any issues with tear out either.
This is what I have and I've always gotten good results.
*the dewalt has the same number of teef. durrrrr
This may fit your table saw. It fits a dewalt dw745 https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Joint-Cutter-Joints-SBOX8/dp/B000ASGV1E
You have to be careful with the feed rate but using a circular saw blade like this you could probably go straight from the saw cut to sanding.
You would still need a plane or router sled setup to flatten the face of a board.
I had some issues with my 4512 also bogging down. I bought a Freud 24 tooth thin rip blade and it works great. I haven't had any problems since. The thinner the kerf the easier it is for the saw to cut.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH
I was looking at this one but it would seem that the one you linked to has finer teeth and can be used to create much wider dados. The blades are made to go into a table saw (you may need a new insert to account for the width of the blades) and you run your piece over the blades to remove material of the desired width.
edit: i accidentally a word
I recommend this blade. It makes fantastic cuts, even on plywood, but I typically make two passes on plywood one on either side.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410-Premier-10-Inch-PermaShield/dp/B000JNTG76
For the cost of a blade just to save an extra ~0.025 inches or whatever or wood you can just buy a LOT more board feet of lumber instead. Or resaw on a bandsaw.
I think the blade that dewalt comes with is technically close to thin kerf (3/32 ~= 0.095 I think I have the same blade that came with my Dewalt..24 tooth 0.095 kerf).
A normal kerf is 1/8 or 0.125, to go even thinner you are talking like 1/32 of an inch less per cut I don't think you'll find a 1/16 blade for a TS and if you do it will cost a lot.
A 56.00 Freud thin kerf blade is also basically the same as what's in your saw https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-Ripping-Perma-Shield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526935425&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=freud+thin+kerf
So just save your money on a new blade and buy more lumber
I have the big brother to that table saw (DWE7491RS) because I needed portability too. I only really use it for woodworking, it's not ideal (mainly because of the small table) but still a great saw given the fact I can fold it up and store it in my shed.
I got this Freud blade for it after a little bit of research. If you're doing fast rough cuts it's probably better to get something else. This one still cuts fairly fast but the finish it leaves is absolutely beautiful. It's Freud's newest "multi-purpose" blade. One thing to consider is the kerf width of the blade versus the thickness of the Dewalt riving knife. This Freud is a thin kerf and is barely thick enough for the riving knife (by about 2 thousandths on each side). You MUST have the blade aligned well with the riving knife (not hard to do). Once it's aligned, it's very safe though, no play for the board to hit the back teeth and cause kickback. No binding either if you have it aligned correctly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036CANUQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've got an Oshlun stacked dado set with spacers. I like the sled you posted and mine is similar but I think I need to make a changes to both my key and maybe pull a shim out of my stack.
Here's my sled
I think I've seen the kinds of blades you are talking about - they look like they are coated with extremely course industrial grit. That is not what icancwhatusay is talking about with an 80 tooth blade. See:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is a "standard" 80-tooth blade with normal (carbide?) teeth as you would expect on a saw blade.
I decided to go with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have cut some spline slots (?) and am starting to build a box joint jig. So far so good!
Any contractor saw would be excellent. You should look for saws with the motor hanging out the back, they're better than the direct drives. Everyone here loves the delta -I cant remember the number- or the Rigid, but I've got a mid 90s craftsman with new freud blades and it cuts very smoothly. I tuned it up following youtube's guides and then every time i adjust the fence have to square it up for 2 minutes cause I havent had time to build a biesemeyer fence yet. I got these two saw blades 24 tooth FTB and 60 tooth ATB
Build yourself a crosscut sled for 10$ worth of wood and I used it for rabbets and Miter-ing. This table saw is a pretty decent deal. Bet he'd take 300 for it
Dont be afraid of used things, youtube will tell you how to make it pretty decent.
I was actually just looking at a new blade on Amazon. Lol. What do you think?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AOTD9L93NDUCK&amp;psc=1
I use the diablo blade you linked to; it's great. Slightly cheaper on amazon.
Before those, I used these blades, and for $20, they're hard to beat.
Yes, combo blades are a fine alternative to high or low tpi blades. The only time I've ever used a 24tooth ripping blade is when I need the flat top grind for flat bottomed grooves for splines.
yes, I use it a lot and it works fine. It's a dado that will do 1/4" and 3/8", but 3/4" is too risky. The comments specify people using it for the 745: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ASGV1E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No worries. Don't forget to grab you a good combo blade. I know it may seem high, but the Forrest WWII is where it's at. I have two I use in rotation when one is off being sharpened.
The only blade you need: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ/