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I used an add a fuse to a DC USB converter. I've had mine in for about a year now with no issues. I went through the horn fuse. I set one up to the right of the TPMS sensor and one in the back in the small glass panel underneath the rear window.
Edit: here is what it looks like,
https://i.imgur.com/tIVI3y1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rusnJwk.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Jq0AKJq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dAAyZTf.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BkAIBZj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eizLI63.jpg

Dashcam

DC-converter

Add-a-fuse

I used a similar thing to wire in my dashcam. I'd check the cabin fusebox to see if a fuse splitter is no longer sharing. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Support-circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B00SUTYYS2 to split one fuse into two.

I guess the more obvious question would be, what isn't working now that the wire is loose?

I did it myself. I got a tap-a-fuse:

E Support 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SUTYYS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Nk8KybFW6GK5Q

And a hardwired usb power supply:

Spy Tec Dash Camera Vehicle Hard Wire Kit - Micro USB Compatible with Mini 0806, Mini 0806 and Mini 0803 | Car DVR Camera Recorder Dashboard Dashcam | Black Box Video Recorder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S73FE8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wm8KybPX7XQXZ

Then I put it under the paneling inside the car. I just pulled off the plastic that is on the left side of the windshield, and tucked it above the headliner above the windshield.

There is an interior fuse panel inside the cabin of the car, typically on the lower left below the steering wheel or behind the glove box.

This is actually a very easy DIY that you can do yourself with very few tools and little knowledge. Simple googling can get you all you need, without knowing technical terms.

Don't split the power from your existing outlet.

Buy a fuse box tap - It lets you add another fuse to the fuse box. So you find a fuse thats already switched with power, replace it with the tap, and hook your outlet's positive power lead to that. Then ground the negative lead to something metal. When I did the same thing I bought a splitter with 2 12v outlets and 2 usb outlets so I could power my dashcam, radar detector, and 2 phones for the same amount of work.

Fuse Tap

Cigarette lighter adapter - cut off the end

For my dash cams I have them wired into the accessory, ground and constant power for my power mirror on one car and the center overhead console on the other.

No don't put in a larger fuse than what that circuit calls for.

You can use something like a fuse tap to add a second fused circuit but don't just shove some wires in with a fuse.

OP, my assumption is that you are looking for a very long cable in order to hardwire the camera? If that's the case you are probably wanting something like this: Spytec hardware kit

The kit is very long, definitely long enough to make it from a fuse box to anywhere in the front of your car. I recently wired two of those into my car, one for my rear cam as well, and I did have to splice in about 6' of wire to make it long enough. It was super easy to do though.

An easy way to attach it to your fuse box it with these: add a fuse 5 pack they plug into a existing fuse hole, and you put the fuse into the tap. It gives you the red wire feed you need for the hardware kit. The black wire for the kit goes to ground (and has a metal semicircle for bolting to an existing frame bolt, not pictured in the Amazon picture)

As far as memory car durability, try to get a MLC type memory made for dashcams (stay away from SanDisk Ultra). Here is a good article about it

I have the A118C and love it. I got it because of the capacitor. It's easy to forget how hot it gets in a parked car. Check out this table. It gets to the mid 90s here in Florida most of the summer. In just 10 minutes it will be 114 if parked in the sun.

I have no opinion on the Yi as I haven't used one. The features look nice but the battery turned me off.

Hard wiring is easy and can be done with any dashcam that uses a USB interface for power. Grab this cable and this fuse tap. If you don't want to go to the fuse box you can skip the fuse tap and find a 12V wire to tap into but this has the potential to be a lot more work and you have to make sure it is 12V switched. If you can find the power wire for your radio it would work. If you think the fuse tap will fit then pick a fuse in your fuse box, pull it out, stick it in the tap, plug the tap in and now you have access to 12V power. Wire the red wire from the USB cable to the cable on the fuse tap or to whichever 12V wire you have chosen and connect the ground to an appropriate location and you are good to go.

I used a fuse tap and used the drivers side window fuse. Its not a fuse that is critical to the operation of the car and if there is a problem it is quickly obvious when the window doesnt work. It also shuts off when the car shuts off.

https://www.amazon.com/Support-circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B00SUTYYS2

After the fuse tap, I put in a female cig outlet and plugged the male side of the cig plug that goes to the camera in there and tucked it away behind the footwell.

I did it myself for about $10 of parts. You buy a fuse tap, and a 12-5v converter, something like this and this, and plug the dash cam power cable into the converter. I tapped my windshield wipers, in the interior fuse box, so that it would only be powered on when the car is in the "on" position. Getting a correct ground connection to the frame of the car is the most important part, i used a screw next to my interior fuse box. All the extra cabling fit neatly next to my interior fuse box.

Materials:
In Cab Switch
LED Light Strip
Pin Switch
Add a Fuse

The lights turn on when the tail gate is opened, and off when closed. There is a master switch in the cab to turn off the power in case I want to have the tail gate down with the lights off. Power is tied into the fuse box in the cab.

Could you explain this a little further? I’m sorry I’m not so good with this kind of thing.

Would I be using something like this? Which fuse slot would it be plugged into? (power windows or radio fuse slot?) How would I get the “power point” slot that now has constant power to run off the other fuse slot?

You would need a mini fuse tap to tap into the fuse box on the inside of the car.


Here's an example:

https://m.canadiantire.ca/products/productDetail/0201615P/false/false/false?selectedSku=0201615

And

https://www.amazon.com/Support--circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B00SUTYYS2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1451700806&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+Car+Add-a-circuit+Fuse+TAP+Adapter+Min

Yes. This is the exact item I purchased to hard wire my dash cam and Homelink mirror, if you want to buy online. Otherwise just walk into your local auto parts store (or store that sells auto parts) and you should easily be able to find something like this on the shelf.

Thanks!

I see these but I remember one where it already added a female 12v accessory port.

So long as you dont go cutting up the electrical system it isnt a problem. Use one of these and you just tap an existing fuse. You can remove it and it would look exactly as you bought if you need warranty service and are worried about it.

What kind of fuse tap do you have?

If it is like this then you should be able to use it in a location with an existing circuit. If it is simply a fuse plug then you will need to make sure you are using an empty or extra location.

Your fuse panel lid should have a diagram of what fuse goes where and what it is used for (i.e. Radio, lights, extra etc..)

You will need an "always on" plug, meaning that it has 12 volts with the keys in the off position. Red wire goes to this fuse.

You will also need an "ACC" or "switched" plug, which will have 12 volts only when they keys are in the "on" or "ACC" position. White wire goes here.

The ground can go to a metal part of the body, you should see somewhere that other grounding wires are already running too. Black wire.

For the DIY people

Get this from Amazon

Get this cable and plug the white to the fuse pigtail and the black to ground, like a screw touching metal.

Find your inside fuse panel, pull out a fuse plug in the pigtail and put the fuse in the pigtail. They'll have a guide what each fuse goes to. I have four USB connections just under my dash and if I want to flush mount USB connections for others to use I have that option.

Get a 10ft USB to mini-USB male cable, route it around your panels, dash and sun visor to your mirror.

It takes about 20 minutes to install.

Hey I'm not exactly young but I ain't that old! None of this is intended to be a drop-in project for your own use, rather ideas to build from to fit your specific use case as needed. It's also a little overkill, my test/dev version was one of these boards wrapped in heatshrink which worked well, was super easy to assemble with no complicated tools, and cost < $3. I wanted more range and a better enclosure and the result is the project in the OP.

If you are using remote start you can tap power from whichever fuse is running at the desired ignition state. In my car the USB port doesn't light up when I remote start, and that's exactly the way I want it - it gets fricken cold here in Michigan and I want my car warming up w/ the garage door closed. If you're 80, maybe you would want it to open the door once the engine started. Grab one of those fuse taps and tap into something that is turned on while the remote-start engine cycle is running and it'll open the door when the engine is on.