Best automotive engine oil drain plugs according to redditors
We found 67 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive engine oil drain plugs. We ranked the 29 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 67 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive engine oil drain plugs. We ranked the 29 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
already exists
Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
They've had those fucking things on the 6.7 powerstroke for a couple years now, they're nothing new.
Looks like this, for anyone wondering.
It happens. I've drilled/tapped more than a few oil-pans at this point.
I don't recommend helicoiling an oil pan - it may not seal properly.
It should be a pretty easy fix for a moto shop, I've used this kit on multiple bikes in the past without any trouble.
Process is as follows:
Assuming everything was done right, you should be fine for many many years.
Yes, those are aftermarket plugs, I don't remember their justification but I've seen it before.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/SMART-R6-Drain-Plug-M14x1-5mm/dp/B00OZ6TB1E/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&
"Anti-leak and Anti-vibration function: seals the oil pan from the inside and counteracts vibration. The high-tech O-ring material expands upon contact with engine oil."
So I just saw this on Amazon last night and ordered it immediately. No idea how well it works but it looks like it will save your sanity if it does.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9221
Just change your filter too, it's not that expensive($5).
Our cars take 0W-20. Up to you what company you want to go with for oil. Mobil 1/Royal Purple/Motul/Amsoil to name a few.
If you change the oil and get a new filter, you'll need 5 to 6 quarts. Fill up with 5, then check and see if it's full, otherwise add more.
You can cheat and install a Fumoto oil drain valve...next time you do your oil change it'll be a hell of a lot easier.
I have used Mobil 0W-20 in my 2018 for the last two oil changes. I've poured over online threads for all types of Subarus, and found that for the filter it's best to stick to OEM (blue is good, black is better but hard to find). This Fumoto drain plug also makes the process so much easier.
Good spot for a Fumoto 90 degree oil drain valve...
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F316L-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B013KW2WTQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fumoto+oil+drain+valve+90&qid=1562976844&s=gateway&sr=8-1
I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.
Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link
Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.
3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.
Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.
Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.
Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I bought this to make my oil changes easier. Drain your oil, replace the drain plug with this, make sure you get a crush washer from subaru and rent a torque wrench from auto zone, or something.
You'll be able to change your oil without any tools, save for a oil filter wrench. You'll have zero mess oil changes, though.
I bought the F-108N, with the longer stem, for my '16 Outback. You've got less clearance but I don't think the stem would be an issue unless you're offroading. Here's mine which is still probably 1 or 2" above the plastic skid plate. Stem lets me attach a tube and drain straight into an empty oil container.
They offer a plastic locking clip which I installed as well as a safeguard. Install was easy using a crow's foot and torque wrench to spec, and I used the provided fiber washer.
I replaced mine with a Fumoto drain valve. 100% worth it. It made my last oil change so easy, the only tools I needed were to take off the lower covers.
Edit: Looks like the OEM drain plug is 9L8Z-6730-A.
Edit2: For anyone looking to buy a Fumoto drain valve, I purchased this: F107SX Valve, Adapter/Extension, Hose Kit, and Cap.
The hose kit and cap aren't required (actually, Ford lost my cap when I had them install it while it was in for a recall), but the extension is required for our cars.
I would suggest getting a Fumoto drain valve if you can get your plug out. Then you'll never have to worry about it again!
These have worked pretty well for me on the aluminum X5 pans that are always stripped, you'll need to find the size of the bolt, I think theyre 12mm, so this is 1mm up. Teflon tape the bolt threads or it'll leak slowly over time.
https://www.amazon.com/Best-Thread-Repair-Screws-Rethread/dp/B07GCK4GTX/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=12mm+thread+repair+kit+oil+drain&qid=1572874928&sr=8-2
I had one that I took off when I removed my damaged skid plates. Once I put skid plates back on, i'll likely put it back on.
Removed it because I didn't want to have problems where I ripped it off while on the trails.
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EDIT: In addition, the one you linked wont work for the v6. The tab will get stuck and you wont be able to thread it on completely, You'll want to get the 90* fumoto valve.
Here's a direct link to the one I purchased and used while my skids were on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HP5V10A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Like other people said it is all in your owners manual. But if you are going to at least be changing your own oil, I highly recommend getting the fumoto valve it has made changing the oil quick, and super clean since I got it!!! It is a must buy.
Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.
I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart
My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.
As long as you
you will never lose a tool.
On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96FE
I would make the following recommendations before resorting to welding or drilling out, or any method with a higher chance of causing damage to other parts of the motorcycle.
Edit: I looked at the picture and realize you didn't mean you ruonded off the top of the bolt, you mean that you snapped off the head. My advice below is for rounded off nuts and advice on the hex-key oil bolts. You can ignore it as your issue is a sheared off head.
Think of when you change your car oil filter. The oil filter wrench -- how does hit work? It tightens up and gets a better grip as you turn. Now think of your open-end wrench, especially if you don't have one that's a correct fit -- it grabs only two of the thin bolt head edges, and pushes on the thin tips. The worse fit your wrench is to the bolt, the finer the edge of the tip it's going to grab--and smear. Use the open end wrench ONLY as a last resort.
Get either a Loggerhead Tools Bionic Wrench or a Sears Max Axxess wrench version. Squeeze on the nut and turn. As you turn, it bites down harder. This is better than vice grips that bite once, then use small teeth like a metal file if they slip.
Note: There is a controversy, I recommend supporting buying the American Inventor tool, Loggerhead, and not Sears
Consider using a Gator Grip socket.
If any of the above give you a problem, use a hand file or a dremel to put some more solid edges on your bolt for them to grip.
Final tips: The stock bolts are fine. Get a correct fitting, box-end wrench, or a six-sided socket, and you will never have a problem (unless you smear it on a rock). There is nothing wrong with the hex key drain plugs, but note you're using a reverse box-end wrench (a six-point "bolt head") to stick into the hole. And if somehting goes wrong, you have less surface area in the hex hole to apply force to for removing them -- you'll be filing flat edges on that round bolt head so you can get one of the above tools to bite on it. Plus you'll have to carry an extra tool vs the Eagle Mike low profile that's the same bolt head size (I believe).
The hex-key fix is an "I don't know how to use tools so I get one that was dummy proofed for me" tip. The equivalent to using a box end wrench on a bolt, would be using a standard/slotted screwdriver to tighten/loosen your hex keys.
If you really wanna simplify the process get the one with the short nipple and buy the tube that goes with it. You can run this straight to the container and never have to deal with an oil pan
Fumoto F108S FS-Series Drain Valve with Short Nippple with Lever Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FFHH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GJUGDbSSHZSCT
Here you go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VCB9WC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FY7Ezb7VY64VB
As a mechanic at the shop or as a diy'er? As a mechanic, you can use https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5911-Drain-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW and get no oil on yourself. As a diy'er, you can install an oil drain valve system and change oil easily. My favorite ones are by Stahlbus or fumoto.
Also this thing
Lol. It got you good. Recommend one of these. Loosen the drain plug 2 turns and snap this handy tool on before loosening further.
OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yTI4Cb3T9Z3FD
Any normal crush washer should work. The idea of the crush washer is to slightly deform when you tighten the drain bolt, so that it forms a tight seal all round the head of the bolt and the oil pan. I just buy a pack like this and then I'm set for a while. If you have a bunch, it makes it easier to change your oil and have one less thing to remember to buy, plus it dissuades you from reusing the old one. Most of the time, you'd probably be fine reusing the old one, but I can spare the 50 cents, so I just use a new one every time.
Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96FE
There is rubber in the middle. Tighten it down and the rubber expands, sealing off the hole. These are commonly used for oil pans with stripped threads.
I used the F-108N on my '18, and it works great... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC
I actually just watched the oil change video from Jake TheGardenSnake where he links the crush washers he used for his 2016 FZ07. Thanks for the help!
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwAQx7WCObM
Crush Washers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3B595M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=jakesnake-20&linkId=c4a1fcd63fb9b300320c5cad4b0c189c
Or?
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Drain-Plug-Magnetic-Remover/dp/B0054WI7CW
Two inexpensive but totally worthwhile upgrades:
I suppose that a Fumoto oil valve would have to be next!
I have one for my Outback, and I'm never looking back to using a normal screw. Different models also have different styles (long tip, etc), so you're bound to find something that will still have adequate clearance even for off-roading. I personally use the F-108N, which has a long tip, and it still tucks away inside the factory skid plate.
As for not being able to drain completely...I'd say it depends. My OB has the drain hole facing the rear-ish of the car, and I have my car on ramps during oil changes, so gravity kinda does the work of clearing out that last little bit for me.
If you are adverse to Heli-Coils, you could use one of {these.]
Sorry, URL won't hide.Prens or slashes I suspect.
https://www.amazon.com/ECO-PLUG-DAMAGED-Aluminum-14mm-18mm-Diameter/dp/B01LX3CGZ3/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3/141-0466609-4761660?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LX3CGZ3&pd_rd_r=4314b34b-9f9e-11e9-b8cb-31d1039f00d9&pd_rd_w=m2tfm&pd_rd_wg=JUiQ3&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=K8439CSMBC1M0238YXA9&psc=1&refRID=K8439CSMBC1M0238YXA9).
Check your local auto parts store for a repair kit, this has happened before
Although, I have not purchased this yet, it is in my cart for my next oil change. With it, you can attach a hose to the plug and it will direct the oil directly in the disposal container. I feel like it is going to make oil changes a much more pleasant experience
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AMXAVX0/?coliid=IXENUG68AZZYJ&colid=QSUTONY162IF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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I have a different pan that doesn't splash. Maybe if you inserted a large funnel in the hole, raised the pan and placed the pan such that the initial fast stream hit the funnel there would be no splashing. You could make a large funnel by cutting the bottom off of a gallon jug of oil (or milk, etc)
I filled this vehicle in my driveway after a rad change, and it wasn't too hard but was a bit of a pain.
First, the transmission fill bolt is a nonstandard square drive. You will need something like this. It is right by the passenger side inner CV joint.
Before you open it, make sure you are in neutral with the engine running, or you will leak everywhere. Then fill until it leaks. There's a specification to the oil you have to find out. To fill, I just used a syringe but it took a long time.
Definitely doable in a driveway. I removed the transmission mount to make it easier.
Yep, Volkswagen is using that plug on the 1.8L and 2.0L engines equipped in late model Volkswagens (2015 and up). I ended up buying the Assenmacher tool through my Snap-On dealer though it's available on Amazon.com as well.
Mine didn't have a separate washer. Your drain plug was likely replaced. It should look like this with a built in seal.
I think they are 14x22.3 but other sizes might work okay. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3B595M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PxEVybFFTKRX2
https://www.amazon.com/ECO-PLUG-DAMAGED-Aluminum-14mm-18mm-Diameter/dp/B01LX3CGZ3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=threadless+magnetic+drain+plug&qid=1570855377&sr=8-3
For when you get the plug out, I’ve never used one myself but it looks like it would work well.
OTC (5911) Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Drain Plug Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054WI7CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_STkUCb5M20XPB I just found one this is what I was talking about
I mean, this is 20 bucks and keeps your hands clean.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F108S-Drain-Valve-Nippple/dp/B004FFHH0M&ved=2ahUKEwjRmaPTsPXdAhWRr1kKHR9DAwkQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2JfhwxL-qMeQ5p6lHjMDPa
I just changed the oil in my '16 Crosstrek. This makes it much easier.