Best bike bottom brackets according to redditors

If the taper on the cranks is screwed up, most likely so is the taper on your bottom bracket. You should replace that as well.

Is your BB a cartridge bracket? Square taper brackets are inexpensive on Amazon, and the Park BBT-22 is less than $20.

Alternately, you can put a piece of wood on the old crank arm and smack the shit out of it with a hammer to wedge it on tighter. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. Don't do it with the new set you bought though.

This is what you're looking for.

Or the UN26 you mentioned, which is just a less expensive version.

amzn.to/1s8ISXk

Select the 68 x 122.5 size.

If I were you, I'd just stop now and save your money for a better bike. The Schwinn Varsity weighs 42 lbs, or about 12-18lbs over what even a generic chromoly framed 80s road bike would weigh, and given that you can pick those up pretty cheaply on craigslist, I'd trade it in and go that route.

But assuming you're already sentimentally attached to this one, despite the fact that it weighs about two full gallon milk jugs more than a bike needs to, you're going to need to start with a 1 piece to 3 piece adapter, like this American to Euro BMX adapter.

Then add a generic road double crankset in your desired length and the appropriately sized bottom bracket, and a fresh chain cut to the right size.

Other than that, it's basically a question of taking the old parts off and putting the new parts on and transferring the pedals over.

It comes with Kryptonite bike locks as a way of mounting the lock to the bike frame.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Transit-FlexFrame-U-Bracket/dp/B07CG7VYY7

Yes, that makes sense. JIS vs ISO only matters in terms of the crankset, not the BB shell. So I'm assuming you mean the crankset you want to use has JIS tapers, is that right? Either way you are dealing with a 68mm BB shell with English threads.

I expect that Sugino wants you to use their BB with their crankset, so this is their 103mm JIS BB. You can get that from Amazon for $35. There are cheaper options from Shimano and other brands, but really $35 is pretty reasonable.

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there is normally a 13mm spacer between the drive side and the BB.

https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-BB30-Drive-Spindle-Spacer/dp/B078XGCVQS

did you pop this guy on?

>Here, it says that a brake sensor is recommended.

It's a good idea on mostly any ebike, but PAS more then hand-throttle. It's because you really don't have a super amount of control over the motor output and it's easy to accidentally trigger a bike by moving the pedals around and getting read to go at a stop light. That sort of thing.

A torque PAS is more typically going to combine a cadence sensor and torque sensor into one thing. This is done to improve responsiveness as the controller can be aware of pedal movement immediately and give a starting boost. It's hard to balance out responsiveness so that you eliminate the 'laggy' feeling, but not so much that the bike jumps out by mistake.

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>I don't want to use a throttle, but I want to have the temperature sensor installed.

I am pretty sure the temperature sensor people talk about goes into the motor and is independent from the throttle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wb8Omk6e7GI

But I suggest getting a low profile thumb throttle unless there is some sort of legal prohibition against it. You can put it on your left side of the bike, which is a nice setup since you won't need your front derailleur controls anymore and it won't get in the way.

It's less useful then on a hub motor (which can help you get going if you are in the wrong gear), but you'll find situations were it's handy to have.

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>Should I keep the nylon blue gear until it fails, or should I replace it with a brass one right away?

Keep the nylon gears. They are very tough and help make up for some of the sloppy tolerances in the bike motor.

If people are regularly stripping them it's more then likely because they are allowing the motor to get too hot. A overheating motor won't get hot enough to melt the gears, but it'll get hot enough to get the nylon soft.

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>How do I figure out which tool I need to remove the existing bottom bracket and cranks on my bike?

The main thing you'll need is a crank puller. Otherwise getting the crank off is a nightmare.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/

You'll need a chain breaker tool as well to size your new chain to your bike. Some multi-tools have one built it. They are pretty cheap things.

Bottom bracket tool is probably needed, but it depends on your BB.

https://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22

https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Bicycle-Bracket-Removal-Remover/dp/B07MFLJJBZ/

You don't necessarily need it 100% if you are creative... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKWWwhRH3cg But it'll make the job a lot easier. Get down and look closely at the BB, though, and make sure that yours is that 20 spline style. Most are.

And watch a couple videos on it. The drive side is reverse threaded which can be confusing.

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>What is the more resistant and weatherproof connector for the battery? XT60 or XT90?

They are both the same connector, more or less. Xt90 is just physically larger and handles more current, but otherwise the same.

I use Xt90s for the battery connector (the S stands for 'anti-spark'). Otherwise xt60's are sufficient for your bike.

the BB should be standard english threaded, in which case you'd want https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SM-BBR60-Ultegra-FC-CX70-Hollowtech/dp/B00CABINCY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bbr60&qid=1566328849&s=gateway&sr=8-3

it's really hard to say online, it would be best if you could go to a local bike shop and have them check it out. I had a domane AL2 frame and sadly I didn't realize that I needed long reach calipers in the back.

but overall as long as everything is standard you should be able to upgrade to 11 speed no worries.

New Rear Wheel - had a 6 speed before so had to get a new wheel to fit the 11 speed and just shoved it in there to spread the dropouts.

New rear mech, cassette, shifter, chainring, and chain SLX m7000 - may or may not be real Shimano.....

New Crankset and Bottom Bracket - came wrapped in chinese newspaper. But.... it all works wonderfully!!!

You could use a threadless cartridge,this is what they're designed for.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Threadless-Repair-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B002K2IG66

They sell adaptors for these, let me see if I can find. Probably more money than it’s worth for adaptors+BB+crankset+pedals. For the $120 or so in parts alone you could probably get something a little nicer, unless you have a strong sentimental attachment or love for the frame

Edit : You’d have to measure to be sure, but something like this is the cheapest option, whereas something like this gets you into all types of BB options

It looks like your U-lock has the bracket to connect to a mount like this one. Do you still have the mount? It looks like you have room to mount it on the non-drive side of the seat tube like I did on mine.

The shimano UN-26 68x110mm is JIS taper and 110 mm spindle length

The RD2 requires a bb with JIS taper but 103 mm spindle length

So basically no it wont work. Sugino does make a bb that would work

yeah, my spindle does measure 119mm. my shell measures 68 if i ignore the cap i have stuck on one side, but if i include it, i measure 71 or ~73 with both caps on. should i be buying this 68x122.5?

Sure! This here is your standard very basic shimano unit.

So something like this in the 68x110mm option?

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

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Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65

Tools

Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

There are different diameters. Most cartridge BBs are 68mm, with some 73mm.

I think this is your only option.

Yeah. thanks for the help.

Shimano SM-BBR60 Ultegra / FC-CX70 / 105 Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CABINCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shimano Claris 8-Speed Road Bicycle Crankset - FC-R2000 (175MM 50X34T W/O BB)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3YZ6S9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The newer Kryptonite design with the nylon strap is much better than the old design with the plastic strap. I refused to use the plastic ones because I heard some terrible horror stories and it seemed like a time-bomb because it wasn't secure. I have been really happy with the new design, and have had zero problems since installing it last summer (and I commute everyday). I just had to tighten the nylon strap twice after it stretched a bit.

The omnomnomiums are certainly worthy of the hype, just make sure you've got a frame that's worthy of them. Messengers are great too, especially if you don't want to spend all that cash and have a huge disparity between the quality of some parts in your build. Honestly any sealed shimano BB between $30-$50 will work absolutely fine for many, many miles. This one is a good option, but I use Eighthinch's and haven't experienced any problems in 2,000 miles.

nice thanks. whats the bb spindle length on http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DTIG9U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

shimano 55?

From my short "window shoping" research this would be the BB www.amazon.com/SRAM-Bottom-Bracket-English-Threaded/dp/B0797RDC31/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537801990&sr=8-2&keywords=sram%2Bbottom%2Bbracket%2B100mm&th=1&psc=1

And this would be the crankset www.amazon.com/SRAM-GX-Eagle-DUB-Crankset/dp/B0797L8N2R?th=1&psc=1 , but I would verify with either Framed or Sram 1st .

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P.S. After taking some quick measurements off my bike .. looks like I was wrong on the cranks and the fat 4 would be the ones to look at www.amazon.com/SRAM-Eagle-X-Sync-Direct-Chainring/dp/B0797RHYX6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=sram+dub+fat+4+crankset&qid=1562990393&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2

I just use the mounting bracket that came with my kryptonite lock (this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Transit-Flexframe-U-Bicycle-Bracket/dp/B005YPKLLE/). It works well enough.

Absolutely! It's an IXF external bottom bracket / crank set combo, paired with a Snail 30t tooth narrow wide chainring, all available on Amazon. Super affordable. The conversion required a few specialty tools for removing the old hardware (square taper crank puller and internal bottom bracket removal tool) with one hollowtech wrench for installing the new bottom bracket.


There's a few good tutorials out there, just be mindful since you are working on the aluminum frame itself and stripped bottom bracket threads mean you'll need a new frame. I also took a few links out of the chain to help with chain slap and this thing is damn near silent now.

Tires are Bontrager XR4s, but they seem to have been discontinued in 29x2.3. They grip really nice off road but suck on the road due to high rolling resistance. Going to have to try something new once these wear out since anything wider might start scraping the frame.

This is the holder I got. Should fit the evolution just fine. It comes with 2 sizes of the clip to put on your lock.

Hey everyone, due to the end of the world sale by on-one, my plans on getting a new frame might have accelerated a bit.

I bought a 2015 Cannondale F29 last December in Ohio and then moved to Seattle a few month later (wasn't expecting to). The F29 would have been all I ever needed for the Ohio trails, but the trails in Washington are a bit more exciting (I mostly ride Tiger Mountain), and I end up going over the bars fairly frequently with the 71° HTA. I have been thinking about getting a 29er all mountain hardtail, looking at the TransAm, Honzo, Big Wig, and Yelli/EPO. I haven't heard much about the Titus Fireline Evo, and wondered if it would also be a good fit.

It looks like I can transfer over most of my parts from the F29 as well, but I would appreciate if someone took a second look.

Fork: replace 100mm damper with 120mm. I have an email from Cannondale saying this is possible, even for 29er, but I can find no info on this anywhere. Definitely going to follow up before making any purchases.

F29 headtube: 134mm (for fork crown spacing)
Titus headtube: 119mm
Lefty-for-all type 1-1/8" adapter steerer tube with internal headsets required to meet stack height. 1-1/8" stem required to replace 1.5" stem.

F29 seat tube: 27.2
Titus seat tube: 31.6
Shims would be required for my gravity dropper.

Bottom bracket:
F29: BB30
Fireline: BSA 68mm
Would this bottom bracket work to use my existing cranks? Am I correct in thinking all Hollowtech II cranks and BB are cross compatible?

F29 rear axle: 10mm QR
Fireline rear axel: 135mmx10mm QR

F29 brake mount, rotor size: IS, 180mm rotor
Fireline brake mount, rotor size: Post, 160mm min
Will need adapter from IS to post mount.

If I use it, the front derailer may need a clamp on cable stop.

Did I miss anything? Kickstand compatibility? :P

Last time I was shopping for a crank for my 2008 Trek 4300 disc I got lucky and the crank that came with a BB fit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LWXUV7I/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lucky, because I had no idea about bottom brackets (and I still don't really). But that one fit and works great and was affordable.

Truvativ makes a one piece (ashtabula) to English cartridge bottom bracket adapter. You'll need that, a bottom bracket of the appropriate length (usually defined by crank manufacturer) and your new single speed crank set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DTIKQE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486739389&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bottom+bracket&dpPl=1&dpID=414eo6f6tjL&ref=plSrch

This is what I used.

BB standards and headest standards are retarded as fuck.

Brief lesson on BBs:

• Basically, most common standard that was on most bikes is the threaded bottom bracket, with a shell width (ie the left right edge to edge distance of the hole that holds the bottom bracket) of either 68 or 73mm. 68 was common for road bikes, while 73 was common for mtb. You would get something like this, which you would thread into the hole from one side and the cup from the other, and then mount the cranks.
  
  
• Shimano then figured out that you can make the cranks stronger by having bearings wider from each other. So what they did is made a threaded bottom bracket, except the bearings would sit in the external cups. The inner diameter of the BB is 24mm, designed for the 24mm crank spindles, (known as Shimano Hollowtech2). Note that the distance from the inner edges of the cups is 73mm as the wider standard is use on most mountain bikes, and the BB comes with the spacers to make it fit a 68mm width shell for the road or smaller width bikes (some modern dirt jumpers use a 68mm shell). However, the cups themselves are about ~10mm wide.
  
  
• Then bike makers found out that you can make the system even stiffer if you make the cups go in the frame, and thus was born the concept of press fit bottom bracket. Because the cup width was integrated into the shell, the shell width grew by about 20mm (the width of the 2 cups as before). So a bike with the 68 mm shell grew to the 86-90 mm range, and the bike with the 93mm shell grew to the 92-95mm range.
  
  
• The first way of doing the press fit bottom brackets was simply pressing the bearings into the shell. This is the BB90/95 standard and is the widest because of the support structure needed for the bearing. The bearings would be pressed in and fit flush into the frame.
  
  
• The next iteration of that was to include a sealed bearing type that was placed in cups from the factory, and these cups would be press fit into the frame. The cups themselves have a small ~2mm lip on them that acts a stopper against the shell edge when you push them in, so the shell width got smaller for these bottom brackets. So the BB95 became the PF92 (which is what yours is, sometimes called BB92), and the BB90 became the PF86. The advantage of this is that the unit was a sealed type, which meant less contamination, and the cups took up the compression stresses, which means less of a chance of overpressing the bearing during installation, which would lead to a reduce bearing life.
  
  http://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/Bottom_Bracket_Standards_Reference.pdf
  
  So to answer your question, most shimano hollowtech2 crank will fit, as it is 24 mm and is the correct width for all of the above. The replacement bottom bracket from shimano for yours is called the shimano xt m800 press fit bottom bracket. A lot of them will say shell width of 68/73mm, which is fine because the "true" shell width from bearing to bearing is still 68/73mm.
  

Yeah right now I think I'll save money by just getting a few proper extractors in the sizes I need and stick to sockets for installation. Digging a little more it seems some cheap Chinese-made press and drift sets have popped up in various places online in the past few months. Seems comprehensive enough, and they're pretty basic CNCed shapes so I doubt quality is lacking much. When I'm feeling a bit more flush, I'll probably get one.

I've got the 3x9 Alvio variant with the All Terra Cranks and honestly i just want it to last so i'm gonna go for the one you recommended, I do have a crank puller but it's not the right thread for my cranks plus whatever tools i'll also need in addition and i'd rather just take it somewhere where they can do it right. I don't think they'll charge me too much for it as they only charged me like $25 for a general check over, derailer adjustment and shifter cable replacement. I'm looking at the Shimano UN55 on Amazon right now and it has a bunch of different types for sizing i assume, Which one would i need?

If the BB has weirdo french treading, you can still use Sunrace threadless bottom bracket, and it's $25.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Threadless-Repair-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B002K2IG66/ref=sr_1_9?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1556141151&refinements=p_89%3ASunlite&rnid=2528832011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-9

Check out your bike coop to source the crankset. You can probably find one for $10 or so.

Hmm you are right, that picture does show a 1 piece crankset, though this one on the Fuji site shows a 3 piece: http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/cruiser-comfort/beach-cruiser/cape-may

If you have a one piece, you can use this adapter to convert to three piece https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-00-6415-027-000-American-To-Euro-Bmx-Adapter/dp/B000VT550K

Most chain tensioners are not designed for wide ranging chain slack, but a rear derailleur is designed for that. I would recommend using one even if you don't run gears on the back

if the chain is getting slack every two weeks then maybe the wheel is moving in the dropout? it shouldn't stretch that much that fast

I have a bike with the same bottom bracket and it started seizing up with less than a thousand miles on it. Granted, I've ridden in some pretty nasty weather with it, but others seemed to have had similar problems. I replaced it with this and haven't had any problems yet.


Additionally, you might need lower gearing depending on the type of riding you're doing. You should be fine if you're doing moderate hills, and not carrying too much. However even with compact cranks and completely unladen, I've had trouble getting up hills with steeper sections. So just be aware of that.

If it's the 28 TPI American size one piece, this is the adapter you're talking about. Going to need to remove the pressed in cups and then press in the adapter. After that OP can put any standard 68mm BSA BB in as far as I know.

No idea between the different brands.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173819373170

Lowrider 2-1 Piece Crank Bearing 5/16" Ball Size x 9 Balls. Set of Bearing. Pair of Bearings. for Bicycle Crank, Bike Crank, Bikes, Beach Cruiser, limos, Stretch Bicycles. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN4G1MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lf2wDbPN36F0D

Cartridge bearing BBs are slightly more difficult to work with, they require a large adjustable crescent wrench and a splined tool that engages with the cartridge cups. Sometimes the cups require quite a bit of force to remove. The right hand cup is reverse threaded, so be sure to remember to wrench in the opposite direction you think.

Pull the BB out and either take it to your LBS for them to measure, or just use a ruler or calipers to measure the spindle going through the BB from end-to-end. I'd expect something like 113-118mm in length. Shimano makes a cheap square taper cartridge BB that replaces that one and is pretty ubiquitous and will mate up with your crank easily. I've found that the quality of those FSA units is poor so you can call it an upgrade!

Check out this page for a really in-depth guide!

edit: left for right

I bought most of my tools off amazon, treefortbikes, and Performance bike.

From what I can tell from the product page for that bike, it does look like a sealed cartridge BB so it probably is a square taper. You need to find out the spindle length so that you can preserve the chainline. After you get the BB out, it should be stamped on there, it should say something like 68x___mm. Once you've got that measurement, buy one of these, they're solid.

For a square taper you're going to need a crank puller, a bottom bracket tool, and a socket wrench. There are a bunch of guides out there, I know park tool has some decent ones so check on their site.

I meant FlexFrame. They're cheap-ish.