Best camera flash synch cords according to redditors
We found 109 Reddit comments discussing the best camera flash synch cords. We ranked the 42 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 109 Reddit comments discussing the best camera flash synch cords. We ranked the 42 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I am fairly certain that if you have a dedicated manual flash controller a la the YN 560 alongside compatible flashes it will work exactly the same with canon or fuji. you can control and trigger all your flashes from that unit.
Definitely this. Even learning to bounce flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photos. Some of my favorite photos that I've taken have been in large part due to the lighting used. A few yongnuo flash units, umbrellas, stands, and triggers and you can really get into some lights for cheap. They won't support high speed sync, ETTL, flash groupings, or anything like that which means you're setting everything manually. What better way to learn, though! For under 300 bucks you can get a 3 flash setup and start taking some really great photos. If bounce is your thing you can get the Yongnuo 565 which puts out tons of power and does a great bounce (was the sole flash in that second photo). The only thing I wish it has was high speed sync.
> I know there are more professional tools than the ones I want to make myself but I really enjoy making them, and personalizing the main one, which is my camera.
> I just prefer a minimal size/always at your dispose light over the fastidiousnes of increase the weight of your camera and mounting/unmounting parts . As you can imagine I'm an amateur, looking professional is the least of my worries.
These are absolutely legitimate reasons to want to do this. My points don't apply.
> Your photos are great by the way, really , but what I'm looking for is to take pictures like this : https://www.flickr.com/photos/66469336@N02/23102037215/in/album-72157661350740135/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/66469336@N02/24396867472/in/album-72157661451662613/
> Which I recognize is not the most beautiful style for night pictures, but hey, it is mine.
On the contrary, your style is actually very attractive and serves a niche. Your photos don't come across as amateur; they have a very defined style and I actually like them quite a bit. I might personally expose the background slightly more, but otherwise I think what you're doing is great. It really captures a moment that's more than just grabbing shots of people smiling at the camera: you're catching people as they're having a good time, and they're involving the viewer in their moment.
Because of this, some of the traditional lighting rules simply don't apply. "Use a larger diffuser to soften the light", for example, is irrelevant of the light source also becomes part of the scene. The first photo you show actually has the phone present as a prop of the scene: your subjects are taking a selfie. The lighting in that scene makes perfect sense, and it works.
So, most of my advice about lighting in this context? Forget it. I'd still recommend against gluing something to your camera, but consider my hot shoe idea: buy some hot shoe caps (they're available in both plastic, and metal with a 1/4" threaded post), and then attach your light to those. You can use stronger adhesive so it won't fall apart while you're shooting, and you don't have to worry about removal later because they'll just pop off the hot shoe later. You might also consider using an external strobe but taking it off-camera. There are many ways to do this, but the cheapest is simply a flash shoe cord, which is available from your camera's manufacturer, or third-party for significantly less money.
However, if you're happy with the results of a tiny LED (and I think you have reason to be), I see no reason to change what you're doing. As a photographer, it's important to establish a "look". You've done that, and I see no reason to stray from it unless you want to experiment. It's clearly working for you. :-)
Definitely go with the cheaper speedlights these days. A few Yongnuo YN 560 III's paired with the remote power control transmitter (here's a slightly cheaper limited option) will give you everything the more expensive canon/nikon speedlights offer, but hundreds of dollars less.
My two cents is that it's not really worth it. Yes, TTL can be convenient if all you will ever do is to shoot with on-camera flash, and leave your camera in auto all the time, and with an advanced wireless setup with multiple flashes, it's somewhat convenient to be able to adjust the ratios from the camera itself, rather than having to go to each flash in a different setup.
That said, in terms of advanced lightning and overall versatility, you are going to have a much better time with a wireless setup and multiple flashes.
However, for the price of the one SB-700, you can have:
Total: $268, that leaves you with enough to add a softbox or some lightning modifiers.
Here's the thing: A manual flash, and compensating for it, even if you occasionally mount it on your camera becomes second nature after just a week or two, and the sheer convenience of being able to (let's say you're photographing a party), being able to just put two flashes in the room, set them both to something reasonable, point them at the ceiling, and shoot away handily beats out TTL, and avoids the harsh light on-camera flash gives you.
Since you're giving prices in euros, you may want to check amazon.fr, amazon.co.uk or amazon.de - whichever of these is more local to you - the Yongnuo gear is usually available there, and light stands to the Cowboystudio are usually also available, and shipping may be cheaper.
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1. Note there are two different Nikon models, the N1 or the N3 - you'd need to check which model you need.
> I was gonna go for the Yongnuo, YN-560 or YN-568.
The former is manual-only. The latter supports TTL and HSS. You probably want to decide on whether you need those features first.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what_is_ttl.3F_do_i_need_it.3F
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_what_is_high_speed_sync.3F_do_i_need_it.3F
It's also important to note that you've linked the YN-560 IV and not the original 560. Version IV comes with a built-in radio transmitter and receiver for Yongnuo's RF-603 (non-TTL) radio system.
> Then I need receivers if I wanna use it off-camera
The flash needs a receiver and the camera needs a transmitter.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/index#wiki_how_should_i_sync_my_flash.3F
> something like the YN-622C here.
That's a transceiver. So you put one on the camera and that will act as transmitter; and you put another under the flash and that will act as receiver. And that system supports TTL, which is what you want if you want remote TTL functionality with flashes like the 568. But it's a bit of a waste for flashes like the 560 which don't do TTL anyway.
> But what about this one here?
That's a transmitter with its own screen. You can put that on the camera instead and use it to transmit to a transceiver unit (acting as receiver) that is connected to a flash.
> do I need both, or only one?
You need a transmitting unit and a receiver unit. For remote TTL, that will require two units as described above.
For manual control with the 560 IV, the flash has its own receiver so you just need a transmitter unit for the camera. That would be an RF-603 transceiver or, if you want it to have its own screen and remote power control, there's the 560-TX.
> Anyone know of a beginner friendly but still in-depth intro/guide to flash photography?
We have one linked in the sidebar.
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
No problem. :)
Ok, so flash is pretty easy. My setup might be a bit outdated, but here is what I use currently:
I have 3 of those flashes, they're really pretty great if you aren't too snobby about brands. I believe Yongnuo has flashes now with the transmitter built into them, but I have never used those and the only time I've seen them in action it didn't go super well. I'm sure they're fine, I just can't recommend them.
So basically you put the controller on your camera. You put each flash you want to use off camera on the transceivers. The controller lets you adjust each flash's settings remotely and triggers them. It's awesome.
If you generally don't know what you're doing with flash for the reception, it's generally best to bounce the light off the ceiling. Point the flashes roughly upward and fire away. At receptions with a defined dance floor you can get pretty great results by placing them in a couple of the corners. Your light might come back kinda yellow. If you don't want to worry about using gels on your flashes then just keep an eye out for it and adjust the white balance in Lightroom after the fact.
Aside from flashes you will want some modifiers to place on them. When I was starting out the two that I used are these (these aren't the exact ones, but they're close):
So there are probably better modifiers to use, but these are cheap and they work pretty well at diffusing/directing light. The softbox is great for portraits and I frequently would use the flash bender to direct light gently over a wide area, like when the toasts are going on or the bridal party is entering the room or the dance floor. When used correctly you should get pretty great lighting and avoid hard shadows.
Anyways, how I shot those photos. You're generally right. I love shots like that (probably too much), and so I do them all the time. The general idea is the same for all of them, soft light in front and a bright light in the back. Using the specific equipment I listed above, my usual MO is to put a bare flash behind them, typically on the ground (using these)or on a stand as low as possible to the ground. Point it at the couple and slightly upward (photo 1 is the exception, it was pointed essentially straight up to make the gazebo light up like that).
Set up a flash in front of them. In most of those photos I used the flashbender modifier on the flash pointing at the couple to direct but diffuse the light. It helps it look a bit more natural. Generally you want to position it in a way that the shadows aren't too distracting, so do it slightly off to the side to get more natural lighting. Obviously I messed up in a few of mine but it is what it is and most people don't even notice. We're always our own harshest critic.
Next is the settings. This is honestly the toughest part in my opinion. You need to expose for the background you want and then use the flashes to achieve the lighting you want on the subjects. I don't know how to describe this, but the easiest way is with photo #6 on my website. I exposed the photo for the city behind the couple and got the look I wanted, THEN I added flashes and whatnot. General rule of thumb is the light behind the couple should be one step brighter than the light in front. That way you get the glowing backlight effect.
Thanks for the compliments on the photos! I hope this helps. I'm sorry if I did a bad job of explaining things, just ask me to clarify anything you don't understand.
EDIT: All this being said you don't NEED off camera flash. I've shot entire receptions using on-camera flash. The most important thing to remember is you just want to diffuse the light in some way. When you're using flash on camera you typically achieve this by bouncing it at the ceiling. Practice this at home, it usually works pretty well!
I wish I had little dudes like this around me right now, haha. As another poster said, I would suggest a larger aperture to combat the diffraction and make things a bit sharper, and let some more light in. I know it cuts you DOF down to a sliver, but I think its worth the trade off for an overall brighter picture.
And, unfortunately, a flash is super helpful for macro, since we lose so much light at that magnification. One suggestion I have, for when you get a flash, is get one of these cables, because that will let you have the flash off body and let you have control over the angle of the light, instead of just being on the camera. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Camera-Flash-Speedlite-Canon/dp/B00YUAMMU2 . You could accomplish the same with a remote trigger, but those are a bit more costly.
For a flash, these are $44 atm http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560-Speedlight-Flash-Canon/dp/B004GZLFHM/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_cp_5
I have 3 and they are pretty reliable.
Then you can get a cheap wireless recieve kit like this
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=pd_cp_p_1
cowboy studio wireless trigger and maybe a pair of light stand
Cheap: 1) extension tube(s) for your 50mm. 2) Silver/Gold reflector with a way to mount it on a light stand. 3) Hot shoe cord: https://www.amazon.com/Vello-TTL-Off-Camera-Flash-Cord-Canon/dp/B005GMWEI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496952004&sr=8-1&keywords=vello+canon+hot+shoe+cord 4) Light Stand & umbrella for mounting a Yongnuo flash kit:
Mid range: 1) Yongnuo kit like B_Huij describes, though I'd go with a YN-560TX on-camera to control power & zoom on the speedlights. If you presently only have one speedlight and you're using it solely on-camera, you're not going to get much use out of it, especially outside. See #3 above to get it off-camera.
Pricier: 1) EF-S 35mm f/2.8 Macro IS STM Lens since you're presently doing your shooting with the kit lens and 50mm, I think this will give you more flexibility than either the 60mm or 100mm macro... those give you more reach but at the expense of Depth of Field. Smaller apertures don't make as big of a difference as focal length with DoF... and for your work I think as long as you're shooting groups of lego dude, 100mm would be inconveniently long.
Bonus idea: Gorillapod/clone with tripod>hotshoe adapter for holding a wirelessly triggered flash.
You've got some great stuff so far. Post back with whatever you results you get from the upgrades!
you don't really NEED it, you can get wonderful shots just bouncing an on-camera flash off a reflector, but you'll find when using an off-camera flash the light in your shots will look more natural, and you'll have much more flexibility for lighting and posing.
You can use the flash you are looking at off-camera by using a hot shoe cord or radio triggers (For example, Yongnuo RF-206 are found cheap on ebay).
You'll also find cheap softbox and umbrella kits floating around, which will improve the quality of your light. In a pinch you could bounce the flash off a reflector (even some white cardboard, or bedsheet. Be careful bouncing off walls as you may add a colour cast to the light).
Yes, cowboystudio is one example.
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412178484&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger
> Does a rig for a gh4 work on a g7?
GH4 rigs would work - but GH4 cages would not.
[Here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNT3b0-bg1CbTvh5TL6sWUwJVgN7x5Gk3-9KYxw18_n4-xbY2LbtCyX6yxuYxCG8Q/photo/AF1QipPeo4JwoeHHjef1zn3fu9pjzyW4HLBX1UYoD6mp?key=X2NLM2dFdFQtLUJGRGRXUmZrNy1NUF9OT1lyc0h3), for example, is a rifle-style rig I built for my GH4 that would work for your G7.
Here is the parts list (total for the basic rig is about $150):
Basic Rig
Optional Ring Light
Optional Second Quick Release Plate
Hope this is helpful and good luck!
Get more level with the object, and throw in some catch-lights. As for keeping the background true black, you can place a piece of flat cardboard on the end of each light box to discourage light from going to the side instead of just straight out. We call them flags, but I like to call them blinders. Call them anything you like, it's your studio.
Lastly, invest the best you can with two [Yongnuo flashes] (http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-560-Standard-Shoe-Flash/dp/B004GZNBH4/ref=sr_1_16?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171284&sr=1-16) and a [Cowboy Studio radio transmitter set] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171336&sr=1-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger).
I have the flashes I linked to and they are fabulous - been through a lot with them and they are still going strong. Yongnuo has a ton of different types of flashes, so you have a plethora to choose from depending on what you're looking for.
Lastly, should you be into the flash option, I would say you can save yourself the trouble of outfitting them both with transmitters and just have one with the transmitter and one on S (slave) mode.
This: (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415031310&sr=8-2&keywords=cowboy+studio)
I picked up 2 of these flashes and this wireless trigger, and this(or similar) set of reflective umbrellas and stands. All that stuff is pretty universal and should work on most cameras.
It's nothing fancy, but it's less than $200 for the whole setup and it gets great results. I use the same stuff for portrait work.
The Tokina lens looks great, but unfortunately it's designed for a crop sensor. I can put it on my full frame camera, but it's going to leave me with a big black circle around all of my pictures.
YONGNUO YN685 GN60 2.4G System ETTL HSS for $102, has a built-in radio trigger receiver, so you can then get a YN-622C-TX E-TTL Wireless Flash Controller for $44 and you're off-camera, you have E-TTL, and high speed sync.
Off camera will be especially useful in macro photography though many find they need a specific ring flash to avoid casting shadows from the lens.
Here is a cheap setup I put together. Fire away!
Triggers = $29.00
Speedlights 2 @ $80.00 = $160.00
4 Umbrellas - Tripods - Flashmounts - Carrying Case = $70
Total = $258.94
Do you want a RF trigger or to run it off your camera via a flash-based system?
EDIT:
Looks like the "cheap" part is going to require you to get an RF trigger and run it manually. You can get a few different kinds of manual off-camera flash for under $40, but a $60 Neewer TT860 will work great manually and you can use it with TTL on the camera as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer®-Speedlite-Camera-High-Speed-Cameras/dp/B00E3K94T6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084596&sr=8-4&keywords=E-TTL+flash
A Cowboystudio dual trigger is going to run you $27 and works pretty darn well. Just keep stuffing dollar tree AAAs.
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084639&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger
Doesn’t the receiver also have a pc sync port?
Can you use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Impact-Sync-Cord-Male-Household/dp/B0055P4SWG
Edit: maybe this: https://www.amazon.com/Paramount-Straight-Sync-Cord-Household/dp/B0731NW91M
I got [these] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369691507&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+flash+trigger) which are just some what cheap flash triggers. One part goes on the hot shoe of the camera and the other one or two receivers have their own hot shoe that you put flashes onto.
Taking a flash off your camera just requires a transmitter and a receiver. You can get very inexpensive ones that work pretty well for under $20. Or even just a flash cable. Then you put the flash on a clip or a stand and put it where you want it and then use as normal. (Be sure to get a transmitter that's made to work with your camera brand, since each flash mount works different)
Obviously taking any of this stuff up a wall will add danger and complexity, and a big diffuser will lower your light output and won't make much of a difference from any meaningful distance (more than 15 feet or so) but from here, you'll have to experiment and see what works for you!
Scratch what I said then. But the one linked wouldn’t work as it needs to be a long one for the flash and the short screw lock for the camera. Kinda like the ones for Paul c buff cybersyncs.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D89IVY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y3NXAbTR2TEYS
After we lost a set of family pictures (and having to pull teeth to get another set) to crappy, non-responsive mommytographers after our second was born, I decided to finally get a real camera and learn some photography basics. We've got our third on the way now, so I'm starting to evaluate the kit I've acquired over the last few years in light of this.
If you're looking to get a flash, just grab the cheap AmazonBasics manual one and bounce it off the ceiling behind you; you'll get 80%+ of the utility of the flash for $30, adding the Cowboy Studio radio trigger gets your flash off camera for cheap as well. Regardless, learning how to use flash is another skill to research (the Strobist is a great resource) and takes a ton of practice. However, babies are slow enough that you should be just fine bumping your ISO a bit and shooting your 20mm wide open.
Really, though, I'll echo what other posters have said: knowledge beats throwing money at kit. What you have is plenty sufficient for good pictures, and buying more kit will barely move picture quality if you don't add knowledge. Practice with mom, practice with a doll, look at pictures of babies, etc. In addition, learn to post-process. Your first attempts will suck, but shoot RAW and practice. You're better off spending $150 on good PP software than another lens, but you can still make do just fine with open source software.
 
We have a similar setup: EM10m2, 14-42 kit, 25mm f/1.8, 40-150 f/4-5.6, 7.5mm f/3.5 fisheye, as well as a smattering of old adapted lenses (most useful is the 50mm f/1.7 that fills the classic "portraiture" role)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PYVKDC
I don't use flashes normally but am getting some for an upcoming trip to a dark place (a cave). I'm thinking of getting two Yongnuo 560ii flashes and a couple triggers.
Alright, so lets say I get the Yongnuo YN-560 III,
How can I find out which transmitters work with it?
Amazon is recommending this
So, I can have a remote in my hand, a transmitter on the camera, and the flash elsewhere. I hit the remote, it triggers the flash and the camera?
This should do the trick
YONGNUO E-TTL YNE3-RX Wireless Remote Flash Receiver for YN-E3-RT/ YN600EX-RT/ ST-E3- RT/ 600EX-RT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TGUR6TS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_tuAQwbDHQYVQA
I think there are TTL compatible cables that you can get like this. You can at least use your current flash with it's TTL Capabilities, even if not with total control.
Hi /u/AmericanVito - I have the GH2, the GH3 and the BMPCC. When I went to NAB this week, I took the GH3, with the GH2 for backup. The BMPCC stayed home.
Of these three cameras, the GH3 is clearly the best choice for run and gun. Fastest autofocus, best in-camera audio, headphone jack, best codec selection, toughest body.
You can plug a pro XLR mic (dynamic or battery powered) directly into the camera with an [inexpensive Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IAJ2O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002IAJ2O&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link] and get great sound.
Put an [inexpensive pistol grip] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054HD10A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0054HD10A&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and [remote cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KVXG38/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004KVXG38&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Links] on the GH3, and it's an autofocusing run and gun machine. Here's my basic GH3 run and gun setup:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UYnVcKoiMis/UsvM__-0iaI/AAAAAAAAIXQ/T2KKnx_oRoQ/w724-h543-no/P1120306.JPG
You can still get the [GH3 for less than $1000 from 6th Ave Express via eBay] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=191094671040&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) [Referral Link].
Hope this is helpful!
Bill
>Do i buy a better flash or triggers?
Yes. Yongnuo HSS capable trigger and Yongnuo HSS capable flash.
Seriously, get yourself a Yongnuo. They're like, $40, and functionally similar to any branded speedlight. A demo pack of stage gels to slide over the strobe, maybe even a cheap as chips speedlight trigger, and you're set up for about 90% of speedlight work for less than a quarter of the price of an actual Nikon speedlight alone.
There's literally no reason to not go for it, and it opens up your shooting a lot.
When it comes to macro, depth of field is a major challenge, because it's razor thin at those distances. You can increase the depth of field by using smaller apertures, but the smaller you go the less sharp the image will be (due to refraction). I'd just try different apertures, because you may still find it acceptably sharp. Another way to improve how much appears in focus is to use focus stacking, a post processing technique using multiple images focused at different points, but it can be challenging. One easy tip, since the plane of focus is perpendicular to your camera, shooting straight on will utilize the entire plane of focus.
As far as lighting, as HelplessCorgis said, outdoors can be challenging because the slightest movement can throw things off. If it's bright enough to use a very fast shutter speed, you may be okay. If you're indoors, and the table and tripod are stable, you can even use longer shutter speeds to get the exposure you want.
Ultimately flash is always better for still photography than constant lights, due to efficiency and light output. Even a $28 Amazon Basics manual speelight will do a decent job! Then you'd want a cheap flash cord so you can move the light around (just make sure to get the right one for your camera brand).
you need either:
1) Off-Camera Flash Sync Cable
or
2) Wireless Flash Trigger
It's best to start with a cord, and not overcomplicate things. As your skill progresses, you'll eventually want to move to a wireless trigger.
I'm assuming that you're talking about these and it doesn't matter whether they're Nikon or Canon, right?
You either need a sync cord or a trigger that's TTL capable. The one you linked isn't, but this one is.
You need something to trigger the flash, yeah. It can be a cable, a wireless radio trigger, or even using the pop-up flash to trigger the external one optically. I wouldn't suggest the latter in a club, though, because any bright light source has a tendency to trigger the flash randomly when it's in that mode and TTL cables are cheap.
'TTL cable' just refers to a cable that attaches to your hotshoe, and on the other end gives you a little box with basically another hotshoe. It lets the flash behave exactly the same as if it was sitting in the hotshoe, just now you can move it around. They look like this.
I have a Canon 7D and a 6D.
I just got the Yongnuo YN622 Wireless Transceiver pair
I also have a Canon 430ex flash.
I plug one of the transceivers into the 6D hotshoe, and then plug the flash into the other unit. So far I can't get the transceiver to work on the 6D, but it works great on the 7D. It looks like, according to the Yongnuo manual that I need to change the "mode" of the flash in the 6D's menu, but I've tried what seemed right, and it still doesn't work. Also, the 6D doesn't have a pop-up flash, so it would seem that whatever I put into the hotshoe should work...
Does anyone have any experience?
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Trigger-580EXII/dp/B0090BSSZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374510410&sr=8-1&keywords=yongnuo+TTL+trigger
Also, do yourself a favor and get a LONG cable to pull the flash from your shoe, don't go OEM.
http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-E-TTL-Off-Camera-replaces-OC-E3b/dp/B003GR6IUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347991996&sr=8-1&keywords=e-ttl+cable
And check out Strobist: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/02/welcome-to-strobist.html
It depends how attached you are to TTL metering.
The places I use flash also tend to have fixed ambient lighting. It's okay for me to manually tune the settings to get it right, so I don't use TTL anymore.
I have had a SB-600 for ages (the prior model to the SB-700), but I've since added two YN-560-II, along with two pairs of wireless triggers (beware there's a set that has a slightly different cable depending on which camera you have.) The 560's are dumb but powerful manual flashes - and the advantage of those triggers is that they can also be configured as a hand-held remote control that fires the camera.
That's the solution that I went with and it works for me, but it might be completely inappropriate if you still want TTL and remote flash power control.
I am using this one - K&F Concept K882 ETT-L, which has more features and power than the 430EXII.
Together with this (YN-622C-TX) and this (YN-622C)
Price: $84.99 + $45.00 + $41 = $171.99
While this setup would be slightly over your budget, you would benefit from E-TTL if needed. It's also nice being able to setup the off-camera flash using the screen and controls on-top of the transceiver.
I have an 80d and paired it up with a Yongnuo 685 along with a 622C-TX controller. The 685 has e-ttl and a built in receiver. For the price I couldn't be happier.
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-Speedlite-Canon-DSLRs/dp/B012CX6Y0M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527555382&sr=8-3&keywords=yongnuo+685+flash+canon&dpID=41m62htog7L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN-622C-TX-Wireless-Flash-Controller/dp/B00MFDO2DG/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MFDO2DG&pd_rd_r=3deafbdf-62db-11e8-bf8e-eb3c744d8fe4&pd_rd_w=TCugj&pd_rd_wg=VUbMV&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3914568618330124508&pf_rd_r=QDN5M3671PDQ4W5TR5HX&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=QDN5M3671PDQ4W5TR5HX
Am I misinterpreting this description then? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074VXMHMY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0090BSSZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395790295&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
>pc sync/flash cable
I had bought this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00761MABI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But even when its connected to lens (set to x) and the flash, it still doesnt fire the flash. Is there anything else I'm missing?
Thanks!
I used two of these and this set of colors.
Easy results for
under $100.around $100.EDIT: Oh yeah, and this for my off-camera triggering system.
Hello, kinda late to this thread but wanted to ask a question regarding flash. I want to purchase the Yongnuo YN560 III and I'm not sure whatelse I'm supposed to buy with it. This transmitter or this wireless remote? Thank you for your time.
Negative.
These: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQRMN4?cache=fd675d6458efc54de88cdcf1a1306e57&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412569082&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4
Depends, do you need TTL?
One easy thing to do is get a hotshoe extension: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GR6IUK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003GR6IUK&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20
Obviously you're then limited to 10 feet off camera, although that's still quite a bit
If you'd like wireless you could get some cheap radios. I'm a big fan of Yongnuo's better stuff. It's direct from China so it's not supreme quality, but it's the "high end" Chinese stuff so it's actually quite reliable. I have 6 Yongnuo triggers and I'm very happy with them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050E7OSM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0050E7OSM&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20
The problem there is they're manual only, meaning you have to fire off your flash(es), look at your screen, and adjust them appropriately. This isn't so bad and it's what I do when I have a portrait session. In the case of a careful portrait I prefer the control over the automatic. Note you don't need to look at your screen if you buy a flash meter, but they're quite expensive.
The last option is a TTL radio, which lets you both go wireless and automatic. They cost upwards of $250 per unit (so $150-$500 for a pair to use your flash with).
http://shop.radiopopper.com/radiopopperjrxstudiokitusca.aspx
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TAPOQ0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001TAPOQ0&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20
I have a Yongnuo YN 560 III. It has all the same features as the high-end name brand flashes for only $70.
Be aware in order to get ETTL support, you need to buy their ETTL triggers.
Photographer friends! I'm finally going to buy some lighting equipment, so I was looking for any recommendations. My budget is around $500 for a two light setup. I usually shoot costume photography (at conventions and outside of them) and portraits.
I would like to go with Yongnuo for the triggers (YN622) and flashes themselves (probably 1 565EX and 1 560).
I have no idea what to go with for the stands (Maybe Manfrotto Nano or Lumopro Compact?), swivels, and umbrellas, except that I'd love for them to be small and light (I'm weak!).
I'm also not sure what modifiers to pick up for using an on-camera flash, like a softbox (LumiQuest Softbox or Lastolite Ezybox?), the Gary Fong Lightsphere that everyone has, or something else (LumiQuest Quik Bounce?).
I will put some good rechargeable batteries (Eneloops?) into my budget, but is there anything else that I'm missing?
Also, I'm not in a hurry to pick any of this up, so are there any sites to keep an eye on for sales?
Thanks!
/u/mrdat /u/dasazz
It turns out they didn't have the c version so it's a bit moot. On a further bit of investigation I found not an insignificant number of people who'd had a issues with batteries and unit failures with new or recently purchased units so I decided against it.
I think I'll be going with a [x2 Yongnuo 568EXII] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN-568EXII-YongNuo-YN-568EX-Flashgun/dp/B00DB21TCM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468597389&sr=1-6&keywords=YONGNUO), [YN-622C-TX Controler] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MFDO2DG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AT2QXFTZ6P2MN) and [YN-622C transcevers] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00BJ4CR5C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3T2PXX210KPYE) setup up instead. Thanks a lot for your advice.
You'd need these triggers to use the flash using TTL+HSS off-camera, the 603 triggers would work only for the 568 flashes in manual mode.
I have the 6D and it focuses amazingly well, both for single shots and in AI Servo. If it's really dark, and I mean difficulty seeing your hand in front of your face, buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Trigger-580EXII/dp/B0090BSSZO and it will focus in pitch dark.
Its available on Amazon in the United States
I bought as part of a pair [since I have 2 flashes], but you can typically find them sold singly too. For instace, on Amazon
A set of Yongnuo wireless triggers will do the job. These will work fine with your camera+flash.
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YTCNJY/
Looking for a somewhat cheap TTL Transmitter.
So I'm a nightlife photographer although it's somewhat more of a hobby. Anyway, I'm getting more into photographing bands and I'd like to buy a TTL Trigger so I can take my camera off flash and be more creative with my lightning.
I'm looking at these alternatives:
I always shoot using the following setup:
Are these triggers any good? Should I be looking at any alternatives? Can they take a little bump (my camera does get hit occasionally). I am honestly more tempted towards the Yongnuo ones since they seem more compact.
Thanks in advance!
Makes sense...so right now im trying to figure out if I need this?
https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Single-Transceiver-YN-622C-Trigger/dp/B007B8Y1KO
Is this the cord you're talking about? DSLRKIT Male to Male M-M FLASH PC Sync Cable Cord with Screw Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00761MABI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C5MXAbF7E9A5H
You either need a radio trigger or a master flash. Buying a 580 just to use as a master flash is a waste of money. I recommend the Yongnuo 622C radio flash trigger. It's eTTL and HSS capable and has a very long working distance. You can also set up groups and ratios for multiple flashes if and when you want to create more advanced flash setups.
www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Receiver-Transmitter-Transceiver/dp/B0090BSSZO
If you get this CowboyStudio trigger/receivers you'll be able to trigger two flashes at once. Then you can buy individual receivers to hook up to your remaining flashes. For some reason it's actually cheaper to buy the kit with a transmitter and two receivers though.
That's the setup I use. You have to keep your flashes in manual, but it works (for Nikon and the cheap-o YN-560s). Range is good, batteries seem to last just fine, everything works out of the box.
So I was doing some more research and found that you can add flashes into the mix (I have a Nikon SB-800) with this:
reveiver
But I'm wondering if it will still allow me to control mixed-brand flashes from a controller?
Hello. I'm not sure where to ask this so I'll just do it here hoping someone can help me out.
I'm brand new to flash photography so I'm sorry for the noobie questions but here it is. I've recently bought this kit from amazon for photoshoots inside a warehouse (for now). It came with 1 transmitter / receiver. It took me a while to find out that to be able to sync the 3 strobe lights, I had to make them face each other so that the sensor on the back would sync and trigger all of them. I was able to get the transmitter / receiver to work with 1 of the strobe lights but I would want to be able to do the same thing for all 3, have all 3 strobe lights in sync without any cables or sensors. Would this item be good enough for that purpose? Does the 3 receivers mean I can connect 1 to each of the strobe lights meaning I'm wirelessly synced to all 3 of my strobe lights?
Also, another question is, I noticed I can only go up to 1/200 when taking a picture and at a higher f-stop. What can I do so that I can take a picture at 1.8f so that the background is blurry yet lit at the same time. I'm looking to take similar pictures like this one
Any help is much appreciated!
Yep, but third party. Looks like I was wrong and it's $20.
http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-E-TTL-Off-Camera-replaces-OC-E3b/dp/B003GR6IUK
I have one of these and it works just fine. I'm an amateur, and using it for hand-held macro like I described in my post, so take that as context for my recommendation :)
Absolutely. Yesterday I tested the PC sync cable by passing a pin over its tip (per instructions from pocketwizard) and it would trigger the flash but not consistently. Once I plugged that cable back into a pocketwizard, I’d get no response.
I’ve been trying to fix this problem for years, and I just bought a new PC sync cable, so I’m at my wits end.
Also, FYI, my external flash worked flawlessly when connected to my camera via a 10ft cable (see below link).
Movo Photo FC100C 33-Foot (10m)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0170OEE28?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
A cheaper alternative to the 600EX-RT while still going Canon is the new 430EX-RT. Canon added the radio trigger technology in the cheaper line. You lose a slight amount of range in how far the flash can turn but it's not that big of a deal. You lose some power as well, but it will be perfectly fine in most cases, especially a class you're taking. Despite what some reviews say, the 430EX-RT can be used as either slave or master unit if you ever pick up more to use for multi-flash work. I've tried it out myself. The 430EX-RT is also considerably smaller and lighter, and the menu system has changed to be much simpler. I prefer going to it first over the 600EX-RT which is a beast of a flash in terms of size and weight. It's very unnecessary in most cases.
(OP, the radio trigger aspect is important. It means if you want to shoot off camera, your flashes don't need to be in line of sight of each other to talk to each other. That's one important distinction between these and cheaper flashes. Either the flashes needed to be in line of sight of each other so the off camera flashes would know when to shoot, or you had to buy third party radio triggers. With these RT flashes, those third party extra gadgets are not needed. For the purposes of your class, I don't know if you'll need to go off camera at all, but hopefully if you do, a simple off camera flash cable will be all you'll need.)
This looks like it should work
https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Transmitter-Transceiver/dp/B0090BSSZO
different model from Yongnuo?
I have been saving up for these Wireless Flash Triggers so I can take our family portrait. They aren't that expensive, but I just can't seem to squeeze an extra $30 into my budget.
Anyhow...
As far as preparing - what do you have for gear? (I'm not trying to be a gear whore here - just curious what you're working with). If you don't already have something in the 35-50mm range - get something. Canon's cheapest option is the 50mm f1.8. It's an extremely cheap lens for the image quality - but it also feels cheap. If you've got the extra money - find an MK I model - as it has a metal mount. (I believe that's true. I only owned the plastic MK II & 50 1.4)
If you're shooting Nikon - I'd highly recommend the 35mm 1.8 or 35mm f2.
If you don't have a flash - pick up one (or two) of these - and learn to use them: Yongnuo YN560
Pick up some triggers, too. Then you can fire your flash wirelessly in order to bouce/move it around without a cable. Here are some cheap ones. Mine only fire about 9/10 times - I guess I'll take that gamble though. Link
If you don't have a reflector - [get one of those as well.] (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335429041&sr=8-1) - Also learn to use it.
Find a used tripod on CL. Buy something good. DO NOT BUY A $25 TRIPOD AND EXPECT IT TO HOLD $2000 (or whatever) in camera. Find something used. You can find decent manfrotto w/heads for $80-$100.
So enough gear rambling - are you able to fire your flash off camera? What kinds of things do your grandmother and aunt like to do? Get them in their element, doing something they enjoy. I'll take that over any solid colored background.
I used Yongnuo flash transceivers.. They've been reliable and they're sturdy as hell. I've had them fall onto concrete before from a height of 7 feet with no lost function.
For a cheap, third party product, they're built like tanks.