Best car subwoofer boxes & encloures according to redditors

Some background: I was following this thread on tesla owners online closely and was very nervous about the errors folks were running into. Because it all sounded over my head, I went to a professional installer with some insights I learned from the thread.

Well, the installer kinda botched the job. I wasn't happy with the sound (they had to remove my LC2i due to turn-off "thump") and I was very unhappy with their shoddy wiring job & relay placement.

So, I opted to do it all over again myself, and I just finished it today. I'll detail what you see here:

• Audio gear: pioneer shallow sub firing downwards, Kicker CXA600.1 amp, LC2i hi-lo converter.
  
• Turn on signal comes from trailer plug in VC_LEFT
  
• Audio signal comes from front left speaker (audio installer told me they found mono signal, but I've yet to fully test that... I'm suspicious that they lied to me) Update: installer lied, I only have left channel audio, and he was also fired. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend...
  
• 12V power comes from DC-DC converter in the penthouse (under the right rear seat)
  
• Power goes to 60A solid state relay (small black rectangle with plastic cover) . The relay isolates the sub amp from the 12V source when the car is off. This prevents many errors from occurring due to phantom current draw. Lots of details on this in the above thread.
  
• Turn on signal controls the relay on/off, and jumps to turn on the LC2i and amp
  
• 4ohm 100W resistor is wired in parallel (bright green) with the relay switch contacts to provide a turn-off delay. This was originally to prevent the "turn off thump" but I found that I had no thump with this new setup. I connected the resistor anyway to help protect the SSR. With 12-14V @ 4ohms, that should only be able to pull ~3.5A max, which should prevent any issues during the DC-DC converter turn on/off activity while the car sleeps. Resistor is totally bypassed when relay is on.
  
• And last but certainly not least, I grounded it all to the post where the premium model 3 amp is grounded. It's just to the right of the trunk cubby, behind the carpet and a plastic divider that I believe is just there so the carpet doesn't droop inward.
  
  If you have any questions let me know! The system sounds impeccable with the added low end. Very happy with the result and it was all worth it in the end.

That amp isn't really going to give you the transient response with a passive sub with it's wattage output, especially if running all four outputs.

You'd probably be best off with the BIC. If you have the skills needed, you could possibly build a DIY with a decent/budget bare sub and something like a Rockville RPA9 bridged and using the 150hz crossover.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-W12K6D4-V2-Subwoofer-Compliant/dp/B07BMMS1LJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642739&sr=8-1&keywords=rockville%2Bsubwoofer%2Bcea%2Bcompliant%2Bk9&th=1

with this;

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RPA9-Channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B06XDRZD3D/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642824&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rockville+rpa9&psc=1

And this;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=twister_B01MQQB9D9?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

would give you a hell of a lot of bass for around $300.

But that's ultimately up to you.

Sub

Amp

Box

Wiring

Slightly over your budget (~$280), but a pretty good combo at that price. You can switch the sub to get the cost down a little more. But, that Alpine will pull the full 500w from that amp whereas this Kenwood sub will only pull 300w.

Edit: Didn't notice you already have a Knukonceptz wiring kit. In that case, this is right at your budget.

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

Don’t get those garbage kits. The Rockford is a really good enclosure but it’s quiet, won’t get you the hard hitting bass. These will help with that a little

Subs: 2 Alpine type S

Amp: DD audio DM1000a

Box: either get it custom built or get a good prefab like this one which is well over recommended space for the Alpine’s. Measure your trunk first.

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mgCLBbE45VETK

$200 Head Unit

$140 Front Door


$66 Rear Speakers

$95 Speaker Amp

$75 Sub Amp

$106 Subwoofer

$35 Subwoofer Box

$61 Wire Kit

$15 Distribution block

$793

That should just about cover it, you'll need a few extra spade connectors to hook up both amps. Will get low and not take up your trunk space. Bridge the sub amp.

Is 700CAD ~$1000 USD? It seems like you can afford a stereo amp $150, sub amp $200, Wiring (Big 3 & power leads) $100, two subs to fit on passenger floor wells, $250+. With the rest you could get a new head unit and extras you'll need.

OK, so you have like $500. In this case the 4-channel is a good idea, but you'll need the right subs with it, and the prefab looks expensive. I'd suggest a Pioneer flat sub. This is a good bargain 4 channel which I like because it has a sub remote for the 3/4 channel plus a built in temp & volt meter. Also that MB Quartz is a good budget amp, I have a similar 5 ch version. For your budget, get a sealed sub because a small vented sub sucks, and you can add a 2nd sealed in the other foot well later pretty easily.

Building a box for the first time can be tough. If you think you can do it, go ahead. There are box calculators available on the Internet where you input the specifications of the subwoofer, also your alpine owner's manual will have all the info needed.

If you don't have the time, there are many good boxes available pre-fabricated. I bought this box for my gf's car when I installed my type r in her car.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004RJ2Y6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/178-0194102-3245564?qid=1421395516&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=51N5q9Iuv9L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40


You might need the UK version of that.

You will see large arguments about the functions of each different type of box. To me, the both are great. I love features about each.

Sealed has a flat frequency response and the box is usually smaller. A short explanation does not mean this type is inferior to ported.

Ported has a tuned port in which the port has been tuned to a frequency (30hz-60hz typically). When the subwoofer reproduces frequencies in that range, the sound will be louder and the spl will increase. Mechanically, a ported box is more efficient in terms of heat dissipation and air flow. This means it will be nominally more efficient power wise. Boxes of this type are normally larger.

https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Universal-Vented-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEFMKG/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1497884783&sr=1-5&keywords=2+12+sub+box

For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:

Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849

Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2

Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860

I did not know of this company before your comment but unfortunately it looks like the r53 isn't supported. I found a box at a dodgey audio shop here in town for 50 bucks that seems to fit the bill. It's available on amazon for 35 and free ship but I'm sometimes impatient and wanted bass in my life again. Thanks for the suggestion at any rate.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1420002811&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch

I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.

For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch

The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.

Hit me up with any questions

30 x 13.75

Pretty close, cheap, construction looks decent. Close to Soundqubed rec size

Item | Price
:--|:--
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557

That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.

I have that exact sub but I'm running it off a JL 1000/1d mono block amp. I had it in an enclosed box first and eventually moved to ported box. The ported box makes it much louder. Can't comment much on the amp you have in momd but 1000 watts is more than enough power. It's in my 2011 Mazda 3 with an aftermarket headunit and it sounds great, all that's left is to get rid of the rattles this summer! Just thought I'd share my experience with ya. Hope it helps.

Edit: here's the box I chose for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zaVOAbD953G1C

depends on the 15s, some like a lot of air, most of the ones I've seen(including CompS) want a minimum of 3'. My single 15 has a bit over 4 to itself. Also a box like that is the same as buying or building 2 seperate boxes since they use a single port for each side and not a shared port. Like these look ok for singles. I like the separate boxes because you can move them around and if you need just a little trunk space you can remove one and still keep a little bass. in a previous car I had them like this and loved the convenience, and also miss having at least a little trunk compare to this lol. Also my box and sub weigh over 100lbs which is a PITA to get in and out of the trunk by myself.

I tend to go a bit of overkill on amps because it's better for the sub to be overpowered than it is to be underpowered. It's easy to hear when subs are bottoming out, but not so easy to hear when an amp is clipping. I'd probably stick with the MB Quart amp and if you have self control go with the comps, or save another $100 and go with this fosgate box which is 1Ω final and 1200w would make it very happy. Also 1200w is a lot easier on your car's electrical system than 2000(120A vs 200A). Lots of tough decisions, it depends more on what you're looking for. A pair of the MBQuart dual 4Ω Subs with the quart amp would go well together as well, but between the quarts and Fosgate P3s, I'd choose the P3s and they are about the same price. I'm a little biased, but for $140 each you can't go wrong with these. Here's a vid of my old 15" version of the same sub with a little over 500w going to it. My RE 15(same 600w rating) lived about 3 years with about 500w(MRP-M500 with 590w birth sheet) then went for about 4 months on my M110(1300w+ birth sheet) and didn't die until I intentionally tried to destroy it the day my Fi came. In the $200 each range I'd say Sundown SAs, in the $300 range, I love my Fi.

allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit

Are you going to have rear speakers? or just fronts? and run 3 channel amp?

If you are going to have front and rear speakers. I would go with the following set up.

amp https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk-m9005d-car-amplifier

and

sub https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX3002-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=sr_1_40?crid=2GIYJPUPWZ95Y&keywords=10+loaded+subwoofer+box&qid=1555076614&s=gateway&sprefix=10+loaded+subwoofer+box%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-40

​

My reasoning is this. If you want space, this sub box can be placed firing down, and you can put stuff on top of it. And also by going with a 5 channel amp you can just need 1 power wire from the battery to the 1 amp, with your set up your going to have to split that wire, one to the amp and one to the powered sub. And this still meets your budget. you can probably find a cheaper 5 channel amp, or a 3 channel if your going that route. but skar is awesome for the price and the punch. i've been really happy with my skar amps.

I think you're right.. my old car was running a who knows how old Sony head unit, wiring that wasn't up to par according to who I bought the sub from and my box just seemed really cheap (and was sealed and small..).


I think my plan now is to do it right, put the type R in this box http://www.amazon.com/300-Enclosure-Series-318-12-Alpine/dp/B004RJ2Y6S , have my installer wire it up properly, and buy a JL amp that runs at 500 rms @ 1 ohm.





Edit: JL only runs their amps at 1.5 ohms I believe, since my type r is wired for 1 ohm does that mean I won't be getting the most out of it?

This one is decent.

Front speakers: Pioneer TS-D1720C $100

This is the set I have in my SUV and I really like them. I really feel like they are the best bang for the buck, and have been since about 2008 when they came out. It is possible to go cheaper but quality will drop off fast.

Sub: Pioneer TS-W310S4 $65

Box: Belva MDFS12 $35

Honestly this is scraping the bottom of the barrel. The price of the sub puts it in line with some genuine crap and from the pictures it looks like the box is made from particle board, not MDF. The only reason I feel comfortable making the suggestion is that I own a TS-W309D4 (it's in my garage now) and it sounded ok on 300 watts. The box won't make that much difference since it's going in a trunk; if you had a hatchback I would still suggest the Scosche posted previously.

Amp: Hifonics BRX640.4 $140

In my opinion Hifonics makes some of the best bang for the buck amps available. This amp is a compromise between this model and the smaller BRX320.4. The smaller amp would give you 40 watts per channel on the front speakers, which would be ok, but only 120 watts on the sub which would leave you disappointed. The BRX320.4 is only $30 cheaper than the BRX640.4 which will give you 80 watts for each of the front speakers and 320 for the sub.

You'll still need the KCA amp kit and additional set of RCAs. Total $378. Keep in mind that for $35 more you can still get the JBL 12" sub and Scosche box.

I recently overhauled my sound system in my '10 Civic SI because either the stock HU or amp was going out, and the stock sub gave out. I tried my best to stay budget friendly and I'm more than happy with my setup.

AMP I got from a friend as an open box unit, for $80.

Front and rear Speakers $40x2, came with mounting hardware and wires = $80 total.

Head unit
$70, I think the hardware for install was an additional 30$ = $100 total.

Sub Best buy has it on sale for $50.

Sealed Enclosure $30 from amazon.


That's $340 total and I did the install myself. I'm not too big into car audio all of the items I choose were due to customer reviews/ decent price point. Hope this helps.









Edit: Just realized, you referring to digital screen unit meaning a double din. Ignore all that, at that budget just get a double din and better door speakers, and upgrade as you go.

Just to clearly.. bridging is just connecting two outputs into one input? And yes, here's the box amp [kit] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_sim_e_3)

Free 2 day shipping with amazon prime

Thank you, so i used that to find a premade box that i may just buy two of. Would this work? Seems like the size sort of matches up.

http://www.amazon.com/1-5-Cu-Ft-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B00EV6ED2A

Try that box. I know you wanna save money on this stuff but the box is honestly really worth it.

What about this one?https://www.amazon.com/Single-Subwoofer-Universal-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFED4W4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1512063206&sr=8-9&keywords=sealed+12+box

Bbox E12DSV Pro-Series 12" Dual Vented Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013MYXDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hld4Db1Y1JFS6

You'll need a sub, box, amp, and wiring kit for the install. You already have an aftermarket radio, so you don't need an LOC. Unless you get a loaded enclosure, I don't see this getting bought and installed all for $300. Labor at Best Buy is going to be $150, maybe cheaper if you buy the junk they have on sale. Here are some suggestions anyways:

PPI monoblock - $100

Rockford p2d4 - $80

10" sealed box - $30

Knukonceptz 8awg ofc wire kit - $36

Total: $246 shipped to your door

So I just got a 2002 Ford Taurus and I am trying to put some subs in. I just bought two of these 12'' Planet Audio 1800w AC12D. A friend of mine believes that the best box to be able to handle these was this double 12'' Sub Box but what I am thinking is that there is probably an equally as good box but for a lower price. Should I actually get this box or is there another cheaper one that will still work? Perhaps this one would work?

Looks like this one!


http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Series-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O

I can't seem to find the 1.5 cubic feet box. Would this one work?

Also, which would be better: Alpine SWS-12D2 or Alpine SWS-12D4

And what size of amp should I get?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N0UEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the box I have. I know it's not best to use prefabs but I don't have the means to build a box currently and anything bigger will not work in my situation in my car right now

anything else I could do to improve?

• E-12D2 V2
  
• Atrend Ported box
  
• Amp Remember he has $300 budget
  
• Wiring Kit
  
• L.O.C.
  
  Youll have $15 left to hit up a Taco Bell

I got a prefab temporarily for my SA-12 that's tuned to 33Hz, and sounds pretty good to me. Atrend Box Link

Oh duh, it was coming up for me since i was logged in, here ill give you my account info.

Login:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Password:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UEE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kidding thats the sub and box respectively. Sorry dude!

Thanks for the reply. Looks like a new enclosure is the way to go.

Any idea if this would be worth getting along with another pioneer sub?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013MYXDO

Bbox Pro SeriesDual 12-Inch Shared Vent Subwoofer

1.6 cu. ft. per sub (someone in the comments said it's actually closer to 1.2 cu. ft.)

Tuned to 39Hz.

I found a few more details on the sub here
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130W309S4/Pioneer-TS-W309S4.html?tp=111#details-tab

It lists Fs at 39.5 Hz, not sure if that means it's a good match or if they're unrelated. The ideal volume is at 1.5 cu. ft. which is close to the 1.2-1.6 of the enclosure.

Sorry it took so long to reply, i was eating dinner.

1.Sealed enclosures. I think 1.15 cu ft of airspace for each sub, and both displace about 0.073 cu ft. I cant find where it talks about minumum airspace required.
2.no
3.all set to low, however i tried messing with them by setting the gain on the highest setting and got almost nothing out of it. Also tried setting everything to high, but again nothing.
4. tried it without any setting changed, and then with the bass set on high. I should mention it is a factory head unit.
5. Yes. I sanded it down and I'm pretty sure its all the way to the metal.

If space is what you need, I can vouch for this guy... I am 38 and have a baby seat in the car as well, so your mileage may vary.

What about this one

Do you think either of these would work well with the Dayton HO:

https://www.amazon.com/E10SV-10-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

or

https://www.amazon.com/Belva-10-inch-Subwoofer-Prelined-Polyfil/dp/B00CBO0HGK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This was my setup a few years ago

Sub

Amp

Box

I never turned the bass settings past half the power because it was ridiculous. I still miss it, the bass was extremely clean and smooth.

This box
is what I ended up with so luckily I chose one with closer to 1 cu (.90).
Also, I picked up the same Pioneer you linked to Walmart but picked up on Amazon. Looking forward to this so much.

hahaha wow okay, I'm looking for more of a balanced system, but I do want the bass to be noticeable for sure. My total budget is looking to be around 500-550. that is including buying a box and all the connecting wires. I know people who can help install it so no money there. I play much more dubstep and rap, basically nothing else. This is the box I plan to get.

Haha, here's the box link. I'll check out that other sub and edit this in a second.

Edit: I'll think on choosing between these two or the 8" linked above until Saturday when I get my paycheck and will have enough for all of this to be ordered at once. Honestly I just don't know enough to come to a conclusion, I guess I'll compare the frequency and such specs? Reviews for both are great and I know the JBL brand (never owned, just recognize), which I've heard is important in car audio (the brand).

What about a cheap box like this? Would it be any good?

http://www.amazon.com/Single-Subwoofer-Sealed-Automotive-Enclosure/dp/B0036UOZ5M/ref=sr_1_27?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369068824&sr=1-27&keywords=8%22+box+subwoofer

Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM

So basically my setup will be that box,

Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001

Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS

Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105

Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU

Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RJ2Y6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VPa5yb06J47F1

Hey there! I recently purchased the same sub myself!

I am running a Hifonics Zeus 1200: http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1200-1D-Zeus-Amplifier/dp/B00CXX97TW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416627023&sr=8-1&keywords=hifonics+1200

And a pre fab box: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUT3JOO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this setup and it is amazing. Really hits hard, a bit too much for my car actually. The box is actually pretty good, it seems well built and gets pretty low with the sub. But I am guessing a larger box could hit a bit lower. But for the price its not bad.

The amp seems pretty good too! I have worked it pretty hard in hot LA weather and it has never gone into protect mode. Built quality could be a bit better on the mounts, but for the price its not b ad.

You'd get better sound quality putting a 2 way component set up front and leaving your rears stock. This is what I'd go with on your budget.

Headunit $230

Sub $60

Box $45

4 channel amp $135

Front components $120

Total is $590, so a little over your $600 budget after wiring and adapters. If you run this you would power your front components using the first 2 channels of the amp, and you'd power the sub by bridging channels 3 and 4. You'd keep your rears stock and fade your sound all the way to the front for the best sound quality. This would be a pretty nice budget sound quality system.

For the fronts you would just have to buy 6x8 to 6.5 adapters for your vehicle and mount the tweeters somewhere, usually either your doors or a-pillars.

It's a prefab. This one. https://www.amazon.com/E12SV-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1486184286&sr=1-1&keywords=Atrend+bbox+12. Would you suggest I find someone local to build me a custom box rather than a new amp? I primarily listen to rap. Thank you.

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

My boot

Shallow Mount Pioneer

Let me know if you have any questions.

Also, one of the best sound upgrades I did was install Sound deadener. One of these will take car of the rear and the doors.

To be honest, that is a horrific setup, avoid at all costs. That amp can and will never do "800w", try 200w max. Also, never pay attention to max ratings, those can be whatever the manufacturer wants, look for an RMS rating. If you think the terminators are bad, those are about 10x worse.

Go with O_HAI_2_U's suggestion, it will be infinitely better with one smaller quality setup, rather than two underperforming 12's. Here's a prefab box that would fit the type-r:
http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_c

Ok, I think I'm reading it right..

Would this Be a good ported box, as far as dimensions go?

Or would it be better to get a vented box?

Was thinking of just getting a ported box, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFEG5ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.1cmzb5FRJZ8G

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R168X2-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414640639&sr=8-2&keywords=6+x+8

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-ev2-15-subwoofer-e15v2-500w-e-series.html

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFK4X-Complete-Amplifier/dp/B0012BYOSK/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414640972&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=rockford+fosgate+4+guage+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Single-15-Inch-Unloaded-Box/dp/B00BIFWGTO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1414640830&sr=8-10&keywords=15+inch+sub+box#productDetails

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1414640957&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+amplifier

I'm no professional, but there was one thing I did that made them sound way better. I put them in a ported box like this:


https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Universal-Vented-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEG5ZC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540921289&sr=8-3&keywords=vented+dual+subwoofer+box


And they were way louder. If you take them out of the box they're in you'll see that the way they're wired is a bit strange (to me, a car audio novice). The + and - on one of the subs is wired to the negative terminal on the back, the other one is wired to the positive terminal. I'm not sure why this is, maybe it was to wire them to a particular "ohm", which I'm not super knowledgeable on. Anyway, I bought a vented box with two sets of terminals and ran each sub a + and - cable to my 2 channel amp. The sound was about twice as loud. I'm pretty sure it had something to do with wiring, but definitely a lot to do with the port. Overall, I'd say ditch that box and get a new one. I was really happy with my decision to do that. Just make sure you're not doing something like wiring them down to 1ohm since they're only a single voice coil.

> https://www.amazon.com/Belva-10-inch-Subwoofer-Prelined-Polyfil/dp/B00CBO0HGK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Ah, judging by the links, you have more space that I initially thought. I really don't care for ported prefab boxes as they tend to have pretty high group delay, meaning they tend to sound boomy. Also they tend to use narrow L ports as a way to keep the ports short enough so they can offer below 40hz tune. It's a compromise they have to deal with. But when ports are too small (internal space wise) they tend to have poor vent velocity which means it'll probably make a chuff noise when you get into higher excursions.

The first link has 39hz tuned port. So it's more SPL than SQ due to it's 1.25 ft3 size. So since ~40hz is common with most music, it'll reach that regularly and be pretty If you want SQ, you'll want low group delay (tight bass) but that often means a huuuuge box. Basically that box will reach it's optimum efficiency at around 39 hz then any frequency below that will cause your subwoofer to lose control called "unloading". That's bad which for that you'll need a subsonic filter set at about 39hz (many amps don't offer a variable filter) So keep that in mind.

The sealed box...ah, much better. Sealed boxes have naturally low group delay which is why they sound so tight. They are smaller and better for SQ...that doesn't mean Ported boxes can't do SQ, they can only if the box is large enough and ports are large and long enough for a proper tuning (32hz tune is usually the most common compromise)

However take note that some people actually prefer looser bass, especially if they like Rap. I personally prefer tight bass even with Rap. But some like it boomy so make sure you know your own tastes. We all have certain sound characteristics (sound signatures) that we prefer. That's why audio is subjective.
Sealed boxes have a natural rolloff depending on size for the sub. But your vehicles cabin gain will basically flatten that out anyway.

Also note that (generally speaking) the +3db's efficiency that ported boxes often have as your music approaches the tuning frequency isn't a huge difference. 10 db's is twice the perceptual loudness. +3 is just where you can start to notice it *edit:( it's noticeable in comparison but nothing to write home about, lets put it that way) so don't consider it as drastic as some make it but if you don't have much amp power, it is something to consider for sure.

So a good ported box and a good sealed box can sound the same until you approach the tuning frequency, that's where the ported box can have that free boost. However, you can use a sealed and then use bass boost BEFORE you adjust your gains. So if you can boost say 35hz +3db's on your amp. Then you would adjust your gain, that way you won't go into clipping when you crank the volume...it's a cheat method to use sealed with benefits of ported however it's not free since you'll need more power than you otherwise would.

Now, is 1 ft3 sealed good for the HO? Yes it'll work well. .5 ft3 is optimal which means Dayton considers this it's size to performance ratio to be adequate. 1 ft3 will give you lower extension in frequency but you may not notice it enough to be a big deal. Larger than 1 ft3 could be iffy, if you go too large it'll sound tubby.

Would this be a good enclosure

[Well what about this box?] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013MYXDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tdchyb1M877BK)

I hadn't realized it was ofc. What are the benefits of that versus non ofc? Less interference?

This looks good. It's 3/4" which the converters tell me is 19mm.

even this would work http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E12S-12-Inch-Hatchback-Enclosures/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Ah, makes sense. So, in regards to the Dayton minimum ported box would be around 1.36cu ft?
Is this good enough for a box?

I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.

I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.

Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.

A bandpass/ported box will give you more rumble and boom while a sealed box will give you a more clean knock. After owning a bandpass box for two years, switching over to sealed was a great choice. Recently bought this sealed box and couldn't be happier.

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BBox apparently makes a good bandpass box as well, however can't say I've tried.

with this box and this amp edit: it would actually be about 50-60 bucks cheaper to go this route and you willl have better quality sound