Best electrical conduits according to redditors

I was like, damn that is clean. Then I seen all the cables crammed under the desk. The only thing you need is some Polyethylene wire tube and some cable velcro and you're set for life.

You should get a mouse bungee for that mouse cord


https://www.amazon.com/CASETHRONE-Gaming-Management-Bungee-Esports/dp/B07F3RTP6H?th=1

And also some wire loom for the PC cables


https://www.amazon.com/Split-Wire-Loom-Tubing-Polyethylene/dp/B074PX33TT/

I got something like this, it adds a tiny amount of weight to the cable and slides across carpet really well. It does still tangle from rotations but it takes longer to be a real problem and makes it wayyyyyy easier to untangle, no more tight rubberized cable that is twisted to shit. At the end of a session or periodically in long sessions I will unrotate the cable using advanced setting overlays rotation counter. Just get it in the smallest size that will fit the single cable and the right length.

2 inch split wire looming. You're welcome. 2" Split Wire Loom Tubing (Polyethylene) - 10FT - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017L3GY7G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yRs1wbSQCYD3Z

Try using wire loom, it’s what is used in most industries (don’t believe me check your cars wiring) it gives a professional look while protecting wire and can be found on amazon for cheep https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Polyethylene-Wire-Diameter-Black/dp/B00DP3K8A6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

> What do you do if you have a shitload of cords everywhere?

Split loom is what we use. [We have a cat that thinks that USB-sized cables are the most tasty thing ever.] It's cheap and with an insertion tool it's easy to put wires inside. You can get it in lots of sizes too, in case you need to bundle many cables together.

100 FT 1/4" INCH Split Loom Tubing Wire Conduit Hose Cover Auto Home Marine BlackMarine Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NKYNBb1R2TAPQ

This has done well for me so far.

For sure! I would push them back a bit and buy some Loom Tube(aka split duct like someone else said)

Electriduct 1" Split Wire Loom Tubing Polyethylene Flexible Conduit (1 Inch OD) - 100 Feet - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1M2OXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xqvyDb3P5CSXX

Is he fixed? How destructive is he when you let him out now? How well litter trained is he?

Everybun is different but it shouldn't be too difficult to get him adjusted. Set up his cage or pen in some corner of the room and start him in there to make sure he keeps his litter habits. Watch him when you let him out and see what mischief he gets up to and figure out creative ways to stop him from doing it. Probably a good idea to invest in a bunch of [wire wrap](https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-Conduit-Marine-BlackMarine/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=pd_sbs_200_1/144-6872218-1880110?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KW9PQTE&pd_rd_r=ca6aace4-5f03-11e9-8078-db1490754bb9&pd_rd_w=vaviC&pd_rd_wg=TmneE&pf_rd_p=763ccc93-bfa2-47be-85ae-0cdd7e00b3da&pf_rd_r=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R&psc=1&refRID=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R\](https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-Conduit-Marine-BlackMarine/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=pd_sbs_200_1/144-6872218-1880110?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KW9PQTE&pd_rd_r=ca6aace4-5f03-11e9-8078-db1490754bb9&pd_rd_w=vaviC&pd_rd_wg=TmneE&pf_rd_p=763ccc93-bfa2-47be-85ae-0cdd7e00b3da&pf_rd_r=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R&psc=1&refRID=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R](https://www.amazon.com/Split-Tubing-Conduit-Marine-BlackMarine/dp/B00KW9PQTE/ref=pd_sbs_200_1/144-6872218-1880110?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KW9PQTE&pd_rd_r=ca6aace4-5f03-11e9-8078-db1490754bb9&pd_rd_w=vaviC&pd_rd_wg=TmneE&pf_rd_p=763ccc93-bfa2-47be-85ae-0cdd7e00b3da&pf_rd_r=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R&psc=1&refRID=F1FR0KXR42XR3K2B5Z7R)) unless he is one of those freaks who doesn't like wire.

Those conduit elbows can be a pain sometime, save yourself the struggle and get a straight connector, most hardware stores should stock these or the 90's if need be.

The velcro ties work nicely; you can also use the spiral plastic cable management stuff or the cable management tube that has a lengthwise split.

The spiral stuff is more of a pain.

Love it, Though from experience if you ever need to move shit around or swap out a new piece. You're gonna hate life.

I recommend this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1M2O4Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T5YIXLCL852U

My life has been changed by split tubing! One of my bunnies will chew any wire in sight but I got a whole bunch of split tubing off amazon and covered all the wires with it and now she can't get to them 😊 if you just search 'split tubing' you should find it but I imagine you'll be able to get it from hard ware stores as well. There's a link to show you what I'm on about:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00EZE8HAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521547653&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=split+tubing&dpPl=1&dpID=41PipXgTI0L&ref=plSrch

I have cats that love chewing wires! I bought some of these in advance Electric Wire Protector 1/2" Dia Corrugation Split Loom Tubing Pipe 6.5Ft https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EZE8HAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_SLa-wbCXE8C61

What about this conduit:

Sealproof 1/2-Inch Flexible Non-metallic Liquid-Tight Electrical Conduit Type B, UL Listed, 1/2" Dia, 100 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756MHW7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q7XXCbR1DMKXS


With these clips:
3/4" EMT/Rigid & PVC COND Clip (100 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5KGR42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W-XXCbGA76Z39

Split loom tubing. I used to hold the cable and dangle it to unravel the cord since it twisted so easily, but after adding the tubing it's never twisted. I used half inch.

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Wire-Loom-Tubing-Polyethylene/dp/B01LX6R6PC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500402732&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F2%22%2Bsplit%2Bwire%2Bloom&th=1

Maybe:

https://www.amazon.com/UT-Wire-UTW-CP501-BK-Protector-3-Channels/dp/B00545BSC0

and/or maybe:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-12mmx8mm-Flexible-Corrugated-Conduit/dp/B0197X1U6S

But they're probably a bit heavy, flexible, limiting, and generally annoying. Note that the vive has standard cable connections, so you can just replace all the wires if they break, and use a cable wrap/sleeve to merge the three cords into one:

https://www.amazon.com/Techflex-PTN0-50BK25-General-Purpose-Braided/dp/B004UHQNUU/

Cheap and easy (measure your size!)

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Wire-Loom-Tubing-Polyethylene/dp/B017L3GX7M/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1524503587&sr=8-8&keywords=split+wire+loom

Professionally done usually uses something like this. West Marine or similar might sell it by the foot.

https://thmarinesupplies.com/products/rigging-hose

However you will need to disconnect everything to run it thru the rigging hose and then reconnect. Really surprised your dealer let that go out the door like that. Might be worth asking them about it.

Let's call the starting battery Battery #1.

If you have a battery isolator wired to the #2 House Battery (which one should do, in my opinion, to protect Battery #1 from being accidentally discharged) then all you really need to do is install Battery #3 somewhere safe and connect it to #2 House Battery in parallel. "In "parallel" means positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative. This will deliver 12 VDC, assuming that all your batteries are 12 VDC to begin with, and will increase your amp/hour storage capacity, because you now have two 12 VDC storage batteries instead of one. It's a bad idea to mix brands, age, sizes or styles of storage batteries. Best practice: buy all the same brand, style and capacity at the same time, but it's not a complete deal breaker, it just means the batteries won't last as long. Maybe four years instead of five, something like that. Do not mix lead-acid batteries and AGM batteries or gel batteries in the same charging circuit. They use different principles to charge each respective type and they are not compatible. It is best to have all the same type, and age (i.e., three AGM batteries.)

You should also have a FUSE in-line. The best way is to install the fuse as close to the source of power as possible---this protects your cables. If a short occurs, it will blow the fuse and protect the cable and the battery. The fuse should be as large or slightly larger than your maximum anticipated load. So if you are going to run a 25 amp fridge, you want a 30 amp fuse. If you put in a 20 amp fuse, it will blow as soon as you plug in a 25 amp load. But, if you put in a 50 amp fuse and there is a short, the cable will heat up to a 50 amp resistance before the fuse blows. This isn't good. The fuse should be sized to the expected load. You need to know the amp draw of your appliances and other electric loads and calculate the amp/hour usage.

The greater the distance, the more resistance in the cable. There are distance/resistance charts online. Suffice it to say, "closer is better." If the distance is ten feet or more, use #6 gauge COPPER battery cable (never use aluminum.) If it is less than 10 feet, probably #8 gauge battery cable would be okay, but I would use #6 anyway, personally. (The larger the number, the smaller diameter the cable. #6 is larger diameter than #8.) Use red cable for positive and black cable for negative. Buy copper cable ends at the same auto supply store where you buy the cable. Be sure they will fit the battery terminal connections. Most styles of modern battery have both large lead terminals and small 1/4" stainless steel threaded terminal connections. Check to be sure. When connecting or disconnecting battery cables disconnect the negative terminal first. This prevents accidental short-outs and sparks.

You must protect the battery cable from abrasion of the insulating plastic covering (red or black.) If the copper of the red cable touches any metal of the van body or frame the cable will short out and could very well cause a car fire. You MUST install a correct size rubber grommet or a cable gland every time the cable passes through a metal bulkhead to protect the cable insulation. You must use "cable ties" to immobilize the cables so they do not vibrate against or rub against sharp objects in/ under the car. (Edit: protective plastic wire conduit protects the cable insulation as well.) It is very unwise to try to go the cheap route in regards to cable safety. It is not safe to try to "Southern engineer" cable safety. Do it right.

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Wire-Loom-Tubing-Polyethylene/dp/B017L3GWIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495905842&sr=8-3&keywords=automotive+wire+sleeves

Each storage battery (let's assume they are all 12 VDC batteries) has a certain amps/hour rating. For discussion's sake, this means that you can consume x amps for y hours before it runs the battery down. My batteries are 190 amp/hour batteries. One may only use one-half of a battery's storage capacity without harming the battery. My battery is 190 a/h. That means I can use 95 a/h without hurting the battery. That's one amp for 95 hours (95/1), or two amps for 47.5 hours (95/2), or three amps for 31.66 hours (95/3), etc.

If you screw this up, and connect Battery #2 and Battery #3 in series (positive-to-negative, negative-to-positive) it will deliver TWENTY-FOUR VOLTS DC. This is bad. Don't do this.

There are some situations (like with solar panels) where wiring (3) 12V/ 100W solar panels in series to feed 36 VDC into your charge controller, which is programmed to accept 36 VDC and to then transform it into 12 VDC to be stored in your storage batteries is okay, but this is a subject way beyond your question.

Wire loom would help. As would an extra large mouse pad and a stand to get your computer off the floor.

Here is the schematic from the user manual showing how CSST is to be routed underground.

I have 1/2 inch line (which is ample, given the fire pit came with 3/8 inch hose). I'll be running it inside [1-1/2" watertight conduit. ](HydroMaxx 1.5" x 50' NON METALLIC FLEXIBLE PVC LIQUID TIGHT ELECTRICAL CONDUIT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046W12PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79Jyzb3PZV9GZ)

The user manual says the line does not need to be sealed (for venting, perhaps?). But I can also get a conduit endcap and drill a hole in it the same width as the CSST to run through. I've dug a trench 20" deep.

I'm slightly hesitant to use this poly pipe because what if one of the fittings leaks? I can't repair without tearing up the patio. With the CSST, there are no fittings underground and if there's a leak, I can easily repair.

This is a great explanation. Thank you. I have two questions:

> If you have a hard ceiling (drywall), then you need conduit.

Can you expand on what the definition of a hard drywall ceiling would be? For instance, my unit has about 3 feet of open space between the drywall (visible ceiling) and the cement (actual ceiling). This is where my building put all its plumbing and electrical wiring.

They also pre-wired the place with a minimal amount of ethernet, which is not in conduit.

> Exceptions are made for non-life safety low voltage conduit in existing walls. You do not need conduit when adding new stuff to existing walls, unless it is for life safety systems.

This is a pretty big exception that seems to nullify the hard ceiling code? Or do they consider walls and ceilings to be different electrical codes?

I'll just purchase some of this