Best grease guns according to redditors

Since you listed zero requirements I'm going to recommend a Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun and a tube of your preferred grease. I bought one several years ago so I didn't have to drive to my parents house to use my dad's. They're well made, and essential to keeping the drivetrain of your vehicle properly lubricated. 10/10 purchase.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYDZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hqdEybRSSGF0Y

I use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMK7FG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504813609&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=grease+gun+astro&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Push-Type-Oil-Gun-Pointed/dp/B01N3XP19B

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Seems like a thing that should have a proper English name, but I can't find it.

It's a grease gun https://www.amazon.com/Grease-Gun-For-Impact-Tools/dp/B000FN8KZE

Buy one with a rubber hose, or replace with a rubber hose like this. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-2326-Grease-Gun-Hose/dp/B00EVPLUSG

If you have Amazon Prime, theres a bunch of options on there for small little containers of 33ms, no need for a large tube, and you'll get it in 2-days with Prime.

I got this one, in the 1/4oz version. I've used it for 3 builds so far, and i still have a lot of it.

There is always the Milwaukee cordless.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00396JTKO/ref=psdc_15707871_t1_B003C1Q98G

How about a normal grease gun, and these?

I mean, I can design and print this; I'd love to take your money. It's just.... I'm not sure how well something 3d printed would hold up in this application. Also, its going to cost you more than already existing products. Why re-invent the wheel?

You can get the hose separately. Grease gun fittings are standardized at 1/8 NPT.

I saw this at Sears last time I was there: https://www.sears.com/dewalt-dcgg5703-24-1-8-inch-npt-grease-gun/p-00916674000P

I got a cheap one at Advance Auto but I would not recommend it. It's starting to crack; I'll move up to the DeWalt one when this one goes. It is also like 10" -- too short in my opinion.

A quick google search tells me FlexZilla makes one too:https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Grease-Hose-Spring-Guard/dp/B06WP9SQRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537231339&sr=8-3 . I LOVE their air whip hoses, so that might be a good deal.

As an aside, while I was looking on Amazon I saw this: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/dp/B00H7LPKKU

If you use grease fittings frequently, it might be worth it. The cheap coupler that came on my hose gets grease EVERYWHERE.

Personally, I will not upgrade until my hose ruptures, but that's because as a hobbyist, I only use a grease gun a few times a year.

Air coupler kit

Put the coupler on the end of the yellow air hose and then put fittings/nipples on the ends of each of the air tools you want to use.

I would suggest finding a kit locally unless you are sure you know the thread size

In my neck of the woods we call it a needle greaser, or needle tip greaser. I think those Oregon gadgets are so-so. I like to grease my nose bearing every other fuel tank. Different opinions exist about this. The best in my opinion: http://dualco-inc.com/products.push.html An adapter if you want: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-05-025-Needle-Nose-Adapter/dp/B000CCIM1A

Geissele red grease is Mobil #28 and they instruct to put a small amount on all engagement surfaces. I have run my LaRue trigger with Mobil for the last year and have 0 issues. 1000 rounds through the gun with minimal cleaning and regular oiling. Trigger grease is still on there and not that dirty.


I bought the below syringe and I'm sure it will last me forever. I just rebuilt my Sig P229 and greased the hammer and sear in there too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIQHOAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jeLrybGGJ3NKB

I just built exactly what you're describing. I can share some of my experiences.

• Torquing things:
  
  
  • An AR-15 armourer's wrench is a dedicated device for AR-15 assembly and will be needed to attach the barrel, buffer tube, and flash hider. I initially got a super cheap one that couldn't take the torque and the tool's teeth snapped off while stripping a few of my barrel nut's teeth. I now use a TAPCO-brand model and it's very well made.
    
    
  • A torque wrench ensures you are tightening the barrel, flash hider, and castle nut to the correct minimum amounts using an objective indicator of applied torque. The minimum values are in the 25-35 ft.-lb range, so get a wrench that can exceed this by a healthy margin.
    
    
  • You need a vise to hold your upper and lower receiver at the individual stages where you're attaching parts, especially anything that needs to be tightened to a specified torque level. C-clamps and speed clamps are also helpful here.
    
    
  • A pair of plastic blocks clamp your upper receiver tightly to your vise. A block of magazine-shaped plastic goes into your magwell to hold your lower receiver in place on your vise. Get a combo pack of both.
    
    
  • Molybdenum-based anti-seize (greasing) compound is necessary when attaching your barrel to your receiver. It makes things easier when torquing the barrel nut and prevents the barrel from chemically bonding to the receiver. I made the mistake of attaching the barrel without it, had great difficulty tightening the nut, found that I couldn't align the gas tube properly, and then couldn't remove the nut again. Had to toss the thing into a freezer overnight to allow thermal contraction to separate the parts.
    
    
• Pushing in roll pins:
  
  
  • You want a mallet with a non-marring head for driving in roll pins without damaging your weapon's finish.
    
    
  • A roll pin starter set will save you so much trouble getting the pins aligned for the first few hammer hits. Buy it.
    
    
  • For most of my roll pins, I used a roll punch set instead of a standard punch set to drive in the pins. Roll pins are hollow and a roll punch has a small indentation that fits inside the hollow area which makes driving the pins much easier.
    
    
  • A standard punch set came in handy to keep high-tension parts aligned while I punched in roll pins from the other side.
    
    
  • A bench block is useful in holding your parts in place while hammering in roll pins, but it's not needed if you have a friend to provide spare hands at some stages of assembly. I started off using it, but a roommate's hands plus a roll of tape (to rest the work piece on) worked just as well.
    
    
• Specialty / miscellaneous
  
  
  • If you're installing a handguard that uses the standard delta ring, you will want snap ring pliers to manipulate the snap ring part of the delta ring assembly. I initially tried using improved tools. Save yourself the cursing and just get the pliers.
    
    
  • I saw a video guide to installing the front pivot pin using a clevis pin. It looks like a good technique to use and would have saved me a lot of trouble.
    
    I'm super happy with the results of my build. The process is fraught with a lot of cursing and you're probably going to lose a couple of the tiny parts (like detent pins and tension springs) but the end result will be totally worth it. You'll be intimately familiar with the insides of your AR-15 and share a sentimental connection with your firearm thanks to its DIY nature. Enjoy!

https://www.amazon.com/d/Grease-Guns/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/B00H7LPKKU

The one I purchased, haven’t had a problem with it yet.

I bought this last year after doing some research. Only on my 3rd tube. Has worked great so far. Came from a HF where the T-handle broke off on the pull rod and sliced my hand open. All because the grease leaked to the spring side of the seal causing a need for me to pull a lot harder than necessary.

I like the pistol grip more than the other type because once the other one is on the compression stroke the grease is coming out because it is bound to get squeezed closed even when u dont want it to.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDZ8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

have you tried one of these.. https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-1133-Loading-Lever-Action/dp/B0002KKTFO/ref=zg_bs_15707871_17 i have an early 70s plews version.. i lost it for a while and was surfing looking for a replacement. i like it as i can pump with one hand while i position the hose on the other.

this is another.. https://www.amazon.com/Carbyne-Professional-Quality-Pistol-Extension/dp/B01KZ5OY1U/ref=zg_bs_tab_pd_bsnr_1

you might find a parts store with a Plews Grease Gun, HD Pistol, Variable, w/18" Hose Part Number: 30-416 UPC Number: 028893304166 this might be one you trashed but its not the standard cheap version

you did not mention if you wanted a lever type or a pistol grip type..

i too have ask how many lanes... oh.. and i keep mine in an old backpack... with grease rags all in there also.. less chance of it going dribbling.

If you have needle fittings and a little bit of room to work, these hand pumps are great. Got 1 on a whim to try since it was cheap, and I was so impressed I now have one for each type of grease I regularly use.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-101-Grease-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B000FMK7FG

> I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions in the near future, but right now here's a couple.

NP hit me up as they come.

>Firstly, what are the appropriate applications for grease and oil? Is one more appropriate in different climates than the other? Would it be optimal to use a combination of both, applying each to different parts? I guess my main concern here is handling the extreme cold we get here in Minnesota (sometimes low as -35*F give or take).

So the only place grease should go is on the barrel nut and castle nut, if you intend to take them off again. For the barrel nut you will need a very specific grease so it doesn't seize, this is it.

For the rest, you just lube. There is some back and forth about dry lube in extreme particle environments, but you don't need to worry about that. There are a million lubes out there, all of which promise to be the next best thing. Most are snake oil. Slip 2000 is not, and I know for a fact their Slip 2000 EWL does work in -25f (cause I've used it personally, among other things). Here are all the proper points to put lube after cleaning. If you notice the rifle getting "sluggish" after a few hundred or thousand rounds (depends on ammo and conditions how long) just put a few more drops on the bolt lugs and bolt carrier rails, you can just drop it in from the ejection port while pulling the bolt back.

>edit: I'm wondering how this applies to pistols too as I have a p226. edit 2: And what about that EWL 30?

Same thing, I know Slip 2000 EWL works. I have not used EWL 30, nor would I in the cold as generally you want the lighter stuff for freezing temps. But you can always experiment with it and report back.


>Secondly, you mentioned a cleaning kit. Is this the one you were referring to? https://www.amazon.com/Real-Avid-223-5-56-Pack/dp/B011X9V70I


Correct, it is an excellent kit specifically for that AR. Comes with everything you'd ever need to fully clean one. I used and OTIS kit before the real avid, and a bunch of hodgepodge cleaning gear before that. The Real Avid just blows them away, and it is so small you can easily put it in a range bag or even large pocket.

Good idea, but useless unless you have a m3 of space around each nipple!
Had those aswell as these , the latter are better but get gummed up with dust and chaff. Decided to just settle with normal ones in the end

I got something similar. Haven't tried it yet, but it seems to be comparable: amazon.ca/dp/B000FMK7FG

just gunna leave this here for you: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7LPKKU

That is interesting, but I did just buy this

The powered grease guns are probably worth it if you need to pump a lot of grease, frequently.

Dewalt just introduced a new one on their 18v and 20v battery platforms

After much debate and whining around our shop we ordered a couple of these Alemites the guys fucking love them.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-LG-High-Performance-Lithium-Grease/dp/B003P038N8
This sorted my squeaky clutch pedal out. put the straw in the hole if you know what im sayin

Use white lithium grease like this.

And follow this Youtube video...it's for a Camry but pretty much the same exact thing in the RX. I just did my Mom's 2001 RX and this worked great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGriUALt3-4

MS33! I have a tube for my rifles but the 33 is amazing for un-squeaking all kinds of things and has lasted YEARS on surfaces that typically would only stay quiet a week with WD40.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XIP9XKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lcI4CbVZ4HS11