Best mounted bearings according to redditors

I bought everything at Home Depot just walking through. Plus the pillow block bearing off Amazon so from memory

2 Pieces- UCP204-12, 3/4 inch Pillow Block Bearing Solid Base,Self-Alignment, Brand NEW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IWGLAM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H-rRAbGRZKA17

2-8 foot 2x4’s cut in half so 4 4’ pieces
2- 2’x4’ 3/4inch plywood
Couple 2x4 scrap’s to mount the bearings too (about 6”)

Piping is all 3/4 inch, 24”, 2-10”, 2 T joints

1 10 inch solid lag screw
And some JB Weld to secure the lag inside the top T joint.

I don't know if it's the correct name, but it's a conveyor roller. Usually go on "conveyor" lines so boxes and things can roll along it in more than one direction.

https://www.amazon.com/48x32mm-Flange-Conveyor-Bearings-Transfer/dp/B00XP5H5S2

3/8" steel? Even if you manage to cut it down, that sounds really heavy.

If you have an angle grinder, you could mount the disk on a pillow block bearing and let the grinder spin the disk while you grind it smooth. To mark the disk for cutting, hold a Sharpie marker in a fixed position and spin the disk.

1. I would call shaft support bracket or block. similar
   
   
2. haven't seen something like that before. Maybe another kind of shaft support bracket. edit: best guess would be a bushing bracket: similar
   
   
3. Looks like one of these
   
   

I just mounted the extruder to the top of the housing I built, but there's a mount you can print for the top of the printer that works fine too(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2369063).
Then ordered some Teflon tubing with the fittings(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077X6FW97).
And these to screw the fitting to the nozzle throat(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GKJCF3).

Put it all together and my PLA+ prints are as acurrate as all those 3D printing channels. Still haven't dialed in my retraction settings, but 6 is working fine for now.

Edit: use the cable wrap that came with the printer around the Teflon tubing and the hotend thermistor and heater to clean it all up.

It's a good thing to consider, the lateral acceleration of a vehicle on pavement can easily be 0.5 g, and if you want to survive a glancing curb strike those bearings would be taking a couple times the weight of the vehicle laterally.

But some random bearing I found can take almost half of the axial load as it can radial load. 4.8kN is 490kg force, or 1000lbs force. So it actually had a pretty high axial load capacity.

I can move it myself and I am in no way in the running for a strong man competition. While a tad heavy, it's more awkward getting it through doors and around corners.

Parts List:

Yoga balls:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ4PXFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

pillow bearings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IWGLAM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


3/4 inch steek rod:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069AB2NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rail Clamping Guides:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07426SVYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Straps to anchor the trainer: (Way to long) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not really anything specific but you could probably get a steel rod/pipe with bearings such as this?

Having a bit of a hard time picturing your project (late night, early morning) but have a look at "mounted bearings". I think that might be suitable for what you are trying to do. Not recommending these exact products but just as examples

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IWGK5LC/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-Diameter-Mounted-Pillow-Bearing/dp/B01MT1MODX/

You could just use a slightly larger drill bit, or an actual reamer bit if you want to be fancy.

Drill America 1/2" High Speed Steel Straight Shank Machine Expansion Reamer, DWR Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BNKEHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_42UzCbV4N5DAA

I would say you'd be better off using a pillow bearing block though.

PGN - UCP201-8 Pillow Block Mounted Ball Bearing - 1/2" Bore - Solid Cast Iron Base - Self Aligning (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MWBY7N9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_53UzCbQ53R5EB

You can use something like this. Just verify width and bore size


https://www.amazon.com/Sunhokey-Aluminum-Toothless-Timing-Printer/dp/B078GPKRP1/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=gt2+5mm+bore&qid=1573616003&sr=8-17

Look they come in black too

Sunhokey 2pcs GT2 5mm Bore Black Aluminum Toothless Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GPKRP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5DU4CbBFZRBT5

Dang, sadly those aren't on Amazon nor on ebay US. I'm gonna try out this for the PS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B887CXG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

These for the hot end and case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJGXHPY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A1QECY8JRTZPBV&psc=1

Trying these (and some similar ones) to replace the stock, trying to keep the belt more centered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078GPKRP1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A144J8BE3R51KJ&psc=1

Does anyone know if these are an upgrade? I don't have any issues with the wheels now, except they gather a ton of dust.

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Polycarbonate-Plastic/dp/B07R3ZRDRF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vslot+wheel&qid=1569173000&sr=8-3

dont think you really need ceramics but amazon sells them too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197SR8R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Figured I'd share the flanged bearing setup I'm running on my marcmt88 mounts.

http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/custom-made-cnc-motor-mounts-available-for-sale/32342



Parts list (For one idler, in order of layout):

• M4-0.7 x 30mm Machine Screw https://www.amazon.com/Machine-Plated-Phillips-M4-0-7-Threaded
  
• 7mm OD 4.2mm ID / 20mm Spacer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DF6ST4
  
• M4 Washer - Included with marcmt88 mount
  
• Speed Ring https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00388S91S
  
• F608ZZ Flanged Bearing (Outside) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197SR8R8
  
• 688ZZ Bearing (Middle) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CMWV29
  
• 608ZZ Bearing (Inside) - Included with marcmt8 mount
  
• Speed Ring https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00388S91S
  
• M4 0.7 lock nut - Included with marcmt88 mount
  
  
  Note: I'm running Abec11 107mm wheels, I did have to create a bevel with a rasp on the inside of the wheel to clear the flange.

Check out pillow blocks (or bearing blocks for models). You can get them pretty cheap through amazon. A pillow block with a bearing and a short shaft (or even studding or a bolt) and you are about done. Make slots in the base plate so the pillow block can be moved to tension the belt.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pillow-Block-Housing-Insert-Bearing/dp/B00DUW5R2G

A center bearing design will be more difficult than a perimeter bearing design. Wood as a rolling surface will create problems as the wood grains crush, creating little ripples for the bearings to roll over. If you can get a metal plate, say 3/16" thick, then you can bolt flange roller bearings like this: https://www.amazon.com/48x32mm-Flange-Conveyor-Bearings-Transfer/dp/B00XP5H5S2 to the bottom of a plywood disc, and have them roll on the metal plate. This will reduce the rolling friction significantly, thus reducing the power needed in how you rotate it.