Best socket screwdriver bits according to redditors

dude you payed $168 (canadian dollars) ??

Looks like a good kit to me! Do you have a pipe reamer? Thumbs up for having a tick tester, too. One thing I added to my kit recently was the Wera Tool Check Plus (this guy I got mine on sale for like $50-60CAD. I have the same impact and it’s handier’n frig for working on shit in tight spots and you can do quite a bit with it and the bit holder and bits work great in the M12 impact.

Oh, and ditching the crimpers for an M12 propex expander would be a good move 😉

I might suggest these.

T20 Torx 2" Impact Rated Power Bit - 5 pack - HCH Through Hardened https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UIC55CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GRlADbJCHTX7G

They are hardened steel, so the bits will round off less. But this means they could be more likely to damage screw heads if over-cranked. So I guess is depends on how often you think you might skip out of the screw head and damage it. I've never seen a stripped head on a torx or security torx, but anything is possible.

They do.

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05056491001-Tool-Check-Imperial-Pieces/dp/B016NC7NN0

Those are called torx bits.

I use this VCOO screwdriver set, it's great cause it covers most common and even uncommon screws used in various knives.

The only bit that stripped so far is the #6 one (was probably used the most), so I have a spare hardened (Wiha-like quality) #6 just in case.

I recommend getting a spare set of #6-#10 torx bits for those double sided pivots.

For one thing, it heavily restricts your range of motion when using driving screws. If you're driving them at any angle other than exactly perpendicular to the surface you're driving into the chuck will grind against the surface. It also restricts your ability to drive screws into any tight spaces.

I'm not a huge B&D fan for any sort of heavy use, but this homeowner special includes the apex and several bits for $9. If $9 is too much, this at least has the longer bits for $5.

Use the right tools for the job; those small 1" bits are meant to go in some sort of magnetic apex, not directly into a drill chuck.

Ram-Pro 9Pc Torx Star 5 Point, Security Tamper Proof, Driver Bit Set – T10, 15,20,25,27,30,40,45,50 – Multifunction Damage/Shear Resistant Hollow Torque Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUCONNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1a22Cb5KSHY8W

Wera 056490 Tool-Check Plus Metric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8MYMT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T93YDbVKFCZCQ


Wera 05056491001 Tool-Check Plus Imperial https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NC7NN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x-3YDbQZA02MD

actually it was a bit exactly like this but it had slid inside the chuck. sad thing is I do own an apex. not really sure why I waited until halfway through the project to remember I had it and use it.

GearWrench 35pc micro driver set I have one of these and it comes in handy all the time. I'm a professional mechanic and this kit always comes with me on service calls.

or

Wera Tool-Check Plus Bit Ratchet Set with Sockets - Imperial Basically a fancier more indepth version of the GearWrench set. I don't own one, but its on my list and would likely replace the GW set at work. I'd bring the GW set home.

or

Knipex Alligator Plier Set What can be said, Knipex makes the best pliers. You can grab hex heads, turn pipe as it grips like a mother, and any other thing your sweet little heart desires.

or

If you want to save up a little more cash, these Knipex Plier Wrenches are awesome or so I've heard Also on my list of stuff to get. These play a similar role as adjustable wrenches.

Wiha bits

$13 for a set of almost every size you'll need, then get any driver you like.

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05056491001-Tool-Check-Imperial-Pieces/dp/B07YWQLF42


https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Parent-Title/dp/B07WNCNPKP

I was also considering them and did some research, then i realized that i don’t have much use for this, as im mostly home, and don’t need to travel with tools. I can’t sees myself why i would need it

Makita Gold

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-B-44644-Impact-Insert-2-Piece/dp/B00QX30NBO

I'm starting to get into maintenance as well, and as you've realized it's difficult to know where to start. Do you start with a big all-in-one set or a small set?

For people like me who had to start from scratch, I highly recommend starting with a small quality kit like:

• Bahco 2330 Socket Set
  
  From here, buy as needed. A lot of people recommend against buying big socket sets because you end up never using many components. You'll never really regret buying a high quality small set like the Bahco. It has mostly everything you need to do small maintenance. For example, you can also pick up this handy hex socket set
  
  
• Silverline Hex Bit Set
  
  for £4 and that'll cover all of the hex needs. I didn't know I needed this hex set until I tried to remove my bar ends and realized you needed a gigantic hex size that wouldn't have been included in most all-in-one sets, anyways.
  
  Another tip is for you to begin to keep a spreadsheet whenever you touch a bolt or screw or need a tool. This way you'll quickly learn what are the important sizes you need, and this will especially help when you need to travel or tour with tools.

I believe this is what you are looking for, Klein Tools 32752 Double Sided Combo Replacement Bit (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YJK0P5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DP2ezbP2C723A

Depending on lighting they can look like Hex/Allen heads, but they're definitely a T5 Torx.
As for keeping the Pico or buying something else, I'd say that's up to you, but mine have been running like champs for several months and that's after having shattered a Subtank Mini from a drop of about 2-3ft and busting 2 drip tips off of my Naut Mini's.
As long as the Pico is still working as it should and the only problem is the screws coming loose, I'd probably save myself the money and fix it.

By the way, here's an Amazon link for one of the tool kits I have. It's got the T5 bit and a bunch of other bits for small screws and such.

For thread locker, probably hit up your nearest hardware store and ask. You're not going to need anything super strong and when you're ready to use it, just put a drop on a piece of cardboard and dip the threads of the screw into it. Also note that you'll probably have quite a bit of trouble removing the screws afterwards should you ever want to.
If anything, tighten them up with the proper bit and see how well they stay in place before you glue them in permanently

I sure do! I actually have the entire iFixit kit, which I enjoy, but the first link is just the bits and driver.

Do spanner bits fit? Like this?

if you just need the driver, not the other random stuff i have something similar to this has everything i need

This should do it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AL7600A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k05RAb0BDVR9X

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05057404001-Bit-Check-Diamond-Pieces/dp/B01BNGH1DI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=wera+diamond&qid=1570579709&sr=8-6

Specifically these. Expensive, yes. But they actually last years. Mine are going on 6 years now.

Hi!

So there will be two bits that come with the Fulcrum. T6 and T8 torque bits. They're what most knives use for assembly.

Here is a full torx set.

And any 4mm bits will work.

You're a great Son-in-Law, btw!

Thanks!

Wiha 75988 Micro Bit Torx https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NWC9V7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IhkTCbCZDZZ9S

You shoould get this with a micro bit holder. I use a micro bit holder from a cheaper torx bit set I bought a long time ago.

Blue circle is likely in/out.

You maybe want to try a 90 degree Phillips head screwdriver, or what I've done is a use a socket wrench and screwdriver bit sockets. I agree, the Gen 1 lights are not easy to access.

Apparently Polaroid had a custom screwdriver for those as well as a special tool to remove the pins from the hinges. Some of the people still doing SX-70 repair today are lucky enough to have those.

I was in the same situation when I was trying to remove the shutter assembly on a sonar model a while back. You've got a couple of options:

1). The expensive option is a driver machined specifically to these 1mm square screws. They can be bought on eBay for about $130.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1mm-x-1mm-Square-Screwdriver-for-Repair-Polaroid-SX-70/382885120791?hash=item5925bb4b17:g:1sMAAOxyhPxRENbe

2). Some have made their own version from a larger screwdriver head using a Dremel tool or even hand filing it down.

3). What I ended up using was a #6 spanner bit after seeing someone else have success with them. A little bit of trial and error filing will get one tip of the bit to the right size (you'll also need to shave down the other tip or it will get in the way). Here's what I bought, though you could probably find the right size at a hardware store too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JLZ3B86/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I managed to get 3 screws off without a problem, but I ended up stripping the 4th because it was pretty tight and difficult to get a good angle on. I really wish Polaroid stuck to the Torx screws on later SX-70 models...

For bits that can be found with or without a hole in the center, "tamper-proof" is tool industry parlance for "like a regular bit of that type, but with a hole in the center".

Same set by a different distributor

I've been doing something similar to yourself though less in a consolidating manner than just upgrading my tools. I have a lot of Wera kit and can't say enough good about them though I've heard equally good things about Wiha and others.

On the multi side, something like this kit might suit you.

I have this kit which has the same small driver handle but a selection of regular short bits. It has the added benefit of a small but strong and very well made ratchet handle and sockets. If you need something along those lines as well the extra cost is worth spending.

As for regular screwdrivers I have this set but you may find their regular non-insulated ones cheaper.

The blades are top notch and the handles I find very comfortable in the hand. Everyones different though so you're probably best to try some out in a shop somewhere if you can get hold of them.

If your local hardware store or Lowes, Home Depot doesn't have what you need, you can always order them. If it's super tiny and you can't find that bit, you can always use the included allen key, but use the short end, as soon as the wrench starts to flex, that's enough. It's the loctite's job to hold the fastener, not brute force. Also, loctite needs 24hrs to fully cure.

EDIT: like these, and Wiha makes good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-72596-Piece-Hex-Insert/dp/B01BXBWXW2/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=hex+bit+set+SAE&qid=1568421099&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Try this? Or similar

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056491-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B016NC7NN0/ref=sr_1_9?crid=37JYY0FH5LG7D&keywords=wera+ratchet+set&qid=1572119985&sprefix=wera+rachet+%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-9

​

I heat my tools up a bit and then soak them in oil to prevent rust.

These things are tiny, but not a bad size really. I ordered what I thought was one of the Wera bit holder and got three which is fine by me. Also got a set of Wiha T5-T10 Torx bits to go with it.

Haven't really used them yet but they seem nice.

This thing has been a game changer for me!

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056491-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B016NC7NN0

Thanks,

It's not to much of a hassle with only one wera handle.

I'm looking at getting these soon,

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056491-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B016NC7NN0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487731921&sr=8-3&keywords=wera+ratchet+set+screwdriver

Non-mobile: Nope no other alternatives.

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Found the socket. I have a set of non tamper proof torx sockets already so I just got the one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AXTJ2MA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just did this a couple of days ago. See this thread for the parts you'll need to buy. I might try to find a slimmer rubber bumper though, it's way too thick to fit in the cage without shaving a lot of it off somehow. You should have something there though.

Even though that cable said it was shipping from China, it actually shipped from CA, and came much sooner than expected. YMMV. There are other places to buy it, just look for the right model number.

I didn't bother with an antistatic mat. As long as you do the work standing on a hard surface instead of carpet and you touch something grounded occasionally, you'll probably fine. YMMV, do your own research on this.

I've stripped 2 Torx T5 bits opening this laptop. Don't cheap out here. I ended up going with these. The T5 bit has been fine so far, though it has twisted a little bit.

When you're opening the laptop, don't forget the two phillips head screws under the flap. Be careful as you pry the bottom off, there are plastic clips that you can break off (don't worry if they do though, you've still got 12 screws to hold it together).

You'll need to fully unscrew and remove the battery, since the hard drive connector on the motherboard is underneath. The hard drive connector gets pressed directly onto the motherboard, and I believe the spot for it is labelled.

Make sure you review the excellent service manual beforehand, and have it available as you work. It has steps to walk you through much of the process.

This may not be a video tutorial, but you really don't need one. By far the hardest part for me was wrangling the rubber pieces into something that would fit, keep the drive snug, and not bend the drive cage. I would recommend buying extra bumpers in case you mess up like I did, and try to slowly shave away the part that's too thick with an x-acto knife.

Good luck, and PM me if you need any additional help!