Best power fastening tool parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 816 Reddit comments discussing the best power fastening tool parts & accessories. We ranked the 284 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
It's not a standard screwdriver, you'll need a torx TR9 security screwdriver I believe, they are cheap. I have heard of people using small flat heads and having success but for best and easiest results get the torx. I clean my PS4 every 6 months it's a launch day console and still pretty quiet.
I bought this set for 15 bucks a few years ago love it comes in handy for electronics and small screws Amazon link.
Jigsaw - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-JS515-Variable-Jigsaw/dp/B001CL4ZHK/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629429&sr=1-3&keywords=jigsaw
Bits - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-71-081-Screwdriving-10-Piece/dp/B000RH3DW8/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629356&sr=1-5&keywords=power+drill
Power Drill - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR260B-8-Inch-Driver/dp/B004FRXWRW/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629356&sr=1-4&keywords=power+drill
Tape measure - http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629447&sr=1-7&keywords=tape+measure
Square - http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-SO101-7-inch-Speed-Square/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629470&sr=1-1&keywords=square
You actually will have some more money for clamps and wood to make projects. There's a lot you can make for yourself with just these things and some creativity. Plus, it'll let you be pretty handy around the house.
Impact screwdriver. Note: I'm thinking the one that you hit with a sledge, not the one you'd use to install drywall screws or something..
This is one of many examples. Be aware that they can also usually be used for TIGHTENING, so make sure it's set right before whacking it.
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3Q0ZTN8MJTHOX&keywords=impact+screwdriver&qid=1558795291&s=gateway&sprefix=Impact+sc%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3
Also comes in handy for removing Honda brake rotor screws!
I had success using the guide referenced here by u/BooB398, but honestly the majority of the dust buildup was along the side vents which I cleaned with Q-tips and did not require any disassembly. Also make sure you get the TR9 Torx Security bit if you are going to get in there (I ordered a kit on Amazon for like 14 bucks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E16J6RQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
>So I've given up and have booked it in to the workshop, but I just hate how I cant seem to accomplish the simplest of mechanical tasks, I'm really just venting here. fuck my useless mechanical ability, I just ruin things like screw heads when I try >:( >:(
Few pointers from a guy whose been wrenching for a long time:
So what do you do?
For those soft screws that love to strip: You use an impact screwdriver to break it loose and/or a good creeping lubricant to break the rust (PB blaster, Kroil).
Once you munge a screw up badly, you will need an extractor set. I recommend you learn this skill by deliberately ruining a few screws that yo have screwed into a board and use the set to get them out.
Here is one example of an extractor kit:
http://www.amazon.com/SpeedOut-Damaged-Screw-Extractor-Bolt/dp/B00IRL3WP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414453572&sr=8-1&keywords=screw+extractor
My advice to you:
EDIT: Thanks for the gold, whoever sent that. Totally unnecessary but I appreciate it and gold helps reddit avoid selling out completely to advertisers. Cheers!
It you are mechanically inclined, brakes are an easy way to save money. Watch a video for your specific car before attempting though. Some times that rotor is held on with the rusted phillips screw from hell, and you don't want to attempt removing that without the right impact tool.
Cheap $12 bit set solves that problem.
Every geek should have these bits on hand.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744BTGJ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keep a set of something like this around for extra credit. Some security screws are deep-recessed:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10224A-Security-Length-Premium/dp/B003X5KEUK/
Or you could use an impact screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE
Another vote for Wiha. I have this set which includes torx and some other often needed bits.
DeWalt power drill with bit set and angle adaptor. Perfect set for someone newly living on their own or for someone who just doesn't have their own power drill. The angle adaptor is particularly handy.
> I'm just looking for something to help build my pc obviously, but also some smaller bits for taking apart gpu's
The only tool I ever remember using to build a PC is a #2 Phillips screwdriver. I keep one of these handy too, but have only used it for things that I didn't really need to do (like take apart an old HD).
That... That's actually kind of terrifying.
I'd suggest going into the Apple store to see if they'll do anything. They have been known to replace computers out of warranty. Just tell them what you told us and hope for the best, I guess.
If that doesn't work out, you need to decide wether or not you should replace it with something else. This could be based on the specs of your computer. Does it run slow? Is it not doing what you need it to do?
If you're not happy with its performance anymore, I'd suggest going to a MacBook Air if you want to go portable. But if you just need it to work as a media center PC like your current MacBook is, just get a Mac Mini.
If you just want to replace the battery, check Amazon or your local hardware store. They're likely to have the screwdriver you're looking for. As to size, you'd be looking at a Tri-wing Y1, according to this article. The battery can be found all over the internet from plenty of reputable sources.
here's what it is!
I daily carry a GORUCK GR1. I chose this pack because of how ridiculously overbuilt it is. Prior to getting the GR1, I carried less and I generally still couldn't go more than 6 months at best without ripping or destroying my packs. I also like that it doesn't have much built in organization. I prefer to create my own organizational system rather than use the one mandated by the pack. This is the primary reason I chose this over similar high quality options such as the Tom Bihn Synapse 25.
Also, I know there is a serious lack of cool hacking tools. Unfortunately I am currently in a more defensive than offensive cybersecurity position, so I don't really carry a lot of stuff around with me like I used to when I was red team.
On the front you can see that I have a Grimloc biner in case I need to attach anything to my pack. I also have a Gonex water bottle pouch and a large water bottle. On the back of the pack I have a pouch with my EDC Zebralight on the shoulder strap for easy access while wearing the ruck.
Opening the pack up, I have my tool pouch attached to the internal MOLLE webbing at the top as well as work gloves, a waterproof pack cover, rain coat, and umbrella. Additionally, I have a packing cube full of clothes. The packing cube isn't a usual part of my EDC, but I had the bag packed for an overnight trip so I thought I'd leave it in the picture to show what a few days worth of clothes looked like packed in the bag.
Under the flap on my admin pouch and inside the admin pouch you can see my primary toolkit. It's designed to have just about anything I would need for basic repairs throughout a day. I'm not handyman or anything, but I like to be able to solve just about any basic problem with just what is in the pouch. If I'm away from home or my car where I have more in-depth toolboxes, I can still solve most issues I run into.
There are two inner pockets. The mesh pocket has several micro USB and USB-C charging cords, an HDMI cable, cigarette lighter charging plug, and a wall charging plug. The top pocket, as well as the outer slant pocket are filled with assorted items that I want quick access to.
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE
Looks like a good kit to me! Do you have a pipe reamer? Thumbs up for having a tick tester, too. One thing I added to my kit recently was the Wera Tool Check Plus (this guy I got mine on sale for like $50-60CAD. I have the same impact and it’s handier’n frig for working on shit in tight spots and you can do quite a bit with it and the bit holder and bits work great in the M12 impact.
Oh, and ditching the crimpers for an M12 propex expander would be a good move 😉
This is the one I use at work and it's great.
They do.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05056491001-Tool-Check-Imperial-Pieces/dp/B016NC7NN0
I got this one a couple years ago for a specific job and have since found myself using it quite often. I actually just used it today! It works great. The day it breaks, I'll be buying another one immediately.
If you're goiong to be spending that much money on a knife, you should get a good set of torx drivers to work on them with.
Invest into a Impact Driver.
Seriously these things are awesome. Your local hardware store should have them.
Other than that try a little heat around them. Stick a screw driver on it and bang the end while trying to twist.
if all fails you most likely have to Drill them out.
Get this set: http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-79242-Selector-Torx-Piece/dp/B001US4RMI
It was recommended to me by /u/uberfastman and it's truly wonderful. It's the last torx set you'll ever need.
Do not get cheapo torx screws, they will screw everything up and cause you endless grief. Wiha or bust!
Victorinox Cybertool is always an option,
albeit without the pliers. It's aimed at IT sort of work. You might also consider a mini bit set like this one I have that and it's really nice. Wide selection of drivers and great quality, especially for the size. Though also minus the pliers.If you want long lasting screwdrivers, I'd highly recommend anything from Wiha.
I just picked up this little guy for my bag.
http://amzn.com/B002PJ3IYE
Imo the single sets that have everything tend to be cheaper quality. Also it depends on your budget. My go to everyday bits are the Pilot Point Titanium from DeWalt. Use em on anything other than concrete. Amazon has them on sale now for $13 for a 21 pc set.
There are better bits out there, but these give a lot of bang for your buck.
Regarding masonry, I use Bosch Blue Granite bits, but the set I have is no longer on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/100-Piece-Security-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Vanadium/dp/B0744BTGJ8
This one but without the driver
Get one of these or a similar model at your local parts store.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3
You hit it with a hammer and the internal mechanism turns the screw at the same time.
3 things happen. The hammer blow causes sever vibration which lets the threads break loose. The impact keeps the bit firmly in the screw. The turning motion backs it out.
Anybody talking about any other method is wrong.
I would recommend this tool.
Have you tried an impact driver?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484171834&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51Lgq16i3YL&ref=plSrch
These things are life savers.
A little mini ratchet set solves these problems well. Usually if you need an offset screwdriver you also don’t have much room to work with.
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kzjtDb51B093W
I have found the ball end T-Handles to be capable of damaging the bolts. There is less surface for engagement and can lead to slipping and rounding the socket of the bolt. Hex bits and a bit ratchet are good for those hard to reach situations.
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75093-System-Slotted-Phillips/dp/B002PJ3IYE
Right angle attachment. I have the dewalt one. They sell it at home depot. They work great. I recommend getting one if you don't have one.
DEWALT DWARA100 Right Angle Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_euWnyb1Q21X15
It is a disassembly set. Has the pry tools and security torx and whatnot: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F734P0
A set like this?
Neiko 01925A Alloy Screw Extractor Solid Cobalt Left Hand Drill Bits Set, 10-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ac3xzbK2JWX51
$23.93 CAD (pesos).
I've had them for a year and they have held up just as good as my old set of snap-on ones.
Amazon Prime > sex:
Seriously. After breaking a bolt or two on my Subaru I got fed up and bought a Makita metric bit kit. Where'd ya think I found it to get it to my house in < 3 days?
I have a 2008 BMW 335i. It has the N54 twin turbo 3.0L engine. I bought the car with 51k miles almost 5 years ago. It now has around 88k. Here's a rough list of what I've done so far:
In general, I will say that I've managed to DIY just about everything on this car, with the exception of the air conditioner evaporator. That I had done at my local A/C shop, but I've since seen someone on the e90 forums do it themselves.
I have had to buy quite a few tools and accessories along the way: a battery trickle-charger for the water pump bleed process, media blaster for the carbon cleaning, torx and e-torx bits/sockets, steering hub spreader for shocks (forgot this in the list above), impact hammer thing for brake rotors, extended low-profile jack, and so on and so on.
The most frustrating thing though was getting the BMW software to work. It's necessary for registering a new battery (so that it charges properly), or for installing new fuel injectors (they have individual flow rates and tolerances).
OH. I almost forgot. The waste gates on my turbos are rattling, and I'm out of warranty, so I'm looking at ~$1500-$2000 for new turbos some time this year. After that, it'll be new front wheel bearings. As soon as things stop breaking, I'll maybe have some time for upgrades and/or tune. =)
I should add, that the only reason I am even willing to do this stuff is because my wife and I commute to work together, so my car can be in pieces for weeks at a time if it needs to. Were that to change, I'd probably have to ditch this car for something more reliable.
Edit: After I finish all of the above, I'm going to polish and seal my headlights. I pretty much have to do this, since I'm sure as shit not going to pay $1k per light. >8|
I kind of got off topic. You asked about the feasibility of maintaining a car like this on your own. It's definitely possible, but it helps to know what you can expect down the road.
I’d use a hand impact driver. ( and I have various air tools). They are about the only things that work on slotted screws like that. https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=asc_df_B000NPPATS/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=292995173425&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=4683897586214222232&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9001423&amp;hvtargid=pla-420785539586&amp;psc=1
Edit( the force of hitting it with a hammer helps to drive it out)
I'd hit it with the penetrating oil (not sure what kroil is) a couple times waiting a few minutes in between to give it time to work.
Grab one of these as well. Is the old style impact driver. You whack the end with a hammer which is what turns the mechanism. It can go left or right so make sure you have it set to the correct one.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=impact+driver&amp;qid=1550950294&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-8
If those are standard size screws, you can change to Allen screws which can be easier to remove. Just make sure you don't over torque. And consider putting a little anti seize on there when installing.
An impact driver alone is probably adequate. But as raoulduke25 points out, unlikely a drunk chav is stumbling about armed with one of those.
How the fuck does hitting it turn it into rotation?
8 bucks on Amazon. Its the dickens (is that British enough?) too.
https://www.amazon.com/03044A-4-Drive-Mini-size-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B000XYOUS6
Yes, Allen/hex keys are retarded to use. You can use a powered screwdriver and a nice one is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS21-2A-2-Speed-Batteries-Charger/dp/B003BEE12U
Add bits, start with the little 1" ones that you use a holder with:
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-16061-61-Piece-Bit/dp/B002YKBDO6
Get a bit ratchet for real tight spots:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6
Also a tip: with particle board furniture like Ikea's, use a bit of wood glue in the screw hole and on the screw before insertion. It makes it go in easier ;) and also keeps the particles from breaking apart. It doesn't form a permanent bond so disassembly is still easy.
yes buy this for tbe back wheels
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XYOUS6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Probably not what you want to hear, but you'll probably need to get a new stickbox (desoldering the old one, soldering a new one). It's a straight forward process and hard to mess up, but the cost can be a big factor if you don't already own the equipment.
Video for reference.
Other option would be to just buy another controller off Ebay, open that controller and swap the guts with your old controller.
You can find a bunch of results for analog stick boxes on Ebay.
Best of luck!
I don't have the comparison you're looking for, but I have this DeWalt FlexTorq Impact ready set that I've been using regularly for over 3 years now, and I've only had to replace a single bit - and that was only because I lost one. It's held up to a lot of use, and I would absolutely buy another DeWalt set.
Stay away from 18v, 20v is their new platform with all lithium batteries. Check out the DCD780C2 or the brushless version DCD790D2.
For accessories, try the new bits: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GMXFK3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1413909871&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Wera 056490 Tool-Check Plus Metric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8MYMT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T93YDbVKFCZCQ
Wera 05056491001 Tool-Check Plus Imperial https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NC7NN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x-3YDbQZA02MD
one like this?
https://smile.amazon.com/Bastex-Tamper-Proof-Security-Screw/dp/B01HIUGGQQ/
I use this, so I'll have bits for basically whatever knife.
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75992-Precision-Interchangeable-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543621592&amp;sr=8-10-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=wiha+torx&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-Precision-Interchangeable-Slotted-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4?crid=2R9SYNV61YMX8&amp;keywords=wiha+screwdriver+set&amp;qid=1535862350&amp;sprefix=wiha&amp;sr=8-11&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_11
Heres a great kit with torx bits
I've got a Wiha 75992 which is awesome. Looks like it might fit OPs needs
Exactly right but I think it’s too late for this screw. The left-handed drill bit idea is the best choice IMO.
Neiko 01925A Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece | Alloy Extractors | Cobalt HSS Drill Bits | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_48c-BbVJE5B8K
Hozan JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (NEW 3rd. Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_09c-BbD50WFW8
For that last part, they make the hand impact drivers that does exactly this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1QPCbJW6THVR
There's a flat driver in that set, slot it into the slot, get a good grip, and hit it with a hammer. It simultaneously impact the bolt to break the rust while at the same time turn the bolt out.
No need to take wheels off just get this https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6
I picked up this tiny little thing which I like because it is literally as thin as you could make it, the back of the bit goes straight to the other side.
If you have patience and a steady hand, I'd say try to repair it. You can likely find the parts you need on Amazon and tutorial videos online. I've had to repair the R-button and control stick on my 3DS on two separate occasions. It was easier to do than I expected and, overall, much less expensive than getting a new system. The only other thing you would need is a precision screwdriver kit. I purchased this one for the job.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Used this one for about 2 years and I do all types of projects. There are plenty out there similar to this as well. Really great.
There are several other kits on Amazon that are almost identical around the $10.00 mark, I've been using this one for ages. Still a good price for a solid kit, but nothing to jump at.
GearWrench 35pc micro driver set I have one of these and it comes in handy all the time. I'm a professional mechanic and this kit always comes with me on service calls.
or
Wera Tool-Check Plus Bit Ratchet Set with Sockets - Imperial Basically a fancier more indepth version of the GearWrench set. I don't own one, but its on my list and would likely replace the GW set at work. I'd bring the GW set home.
or
Knipex Alligator Plier Set What can be said, Knipex makes the best pliers. You can grab hex heads, turn pipe as it grips like a mother, and any other thing your sweet little heart desires.
or
If you want to save up a little more cash, these Knipex Plier Wrenches are awesome or so I've heard Also on my list of stuff to get. These play a similar role as adjustable wrenches.
I wouldn’t buy an ifixit kit. There’s better kits for cheaper (better grips, more bits, no fancy case but oh well) and you can get the 1 screwdriver you’ll ever need for building a pc at Lowe’s for like 5 bucks.
Edit: for an example I have compared ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Repair Tool Kit to my friend’s $80 ifixit kit and omg the screwdriver is so much nicer.
The ifixit kit comes with all the tools to fix phones screens and shit but the screwdriver is awful and you gotta use the cross piece to get ANY leverage to turn it.
This $13 kit has every tiny bit you’ll ever need and the screwdriver has a built in extender. Grips so that you can turn it without fiddling with another piece and all sorts. Super nice for the price imo
There are so many variants of these kits that seem to be the same thing repackaged.
If you are here on this subreddit buying a screwdriver set, you are mainly buying a set of small screwdrivers to build PCs or other small electronics. This means that you don't really need heavy duty BIFL/lifetime warranty type of professional tools.
When I looked for a kit, the main thing I wanted was:
I've owned 3 of the more popular kits and here's the breakdown:
The yellow packaged "JACKYLED" brand one posted in this thread
This kit has most of the bits any PC builder/electronics repair might need, has the free-spinning end cap, but the magnet is SO WEAK. the bit barely stays in place, and can't hold onto any screws
The green packaged "53-in-1 screwdriver kit", usually sold under brand "Esco-lite"
This is the recommendation another user /u/HERD_ always posts when these screwdriver kit deals pop up on /r/buildapcsales, and it's not any better. It has good bit selection. Has a better bit-retention system than the others (it takes a little bit of effort to remove the bits from the case). The magnet is just as weak as the yellow JACKYLED branded ones. The worst part is the handle system. They have this 2-in-1 type of handle with a bulbous top part and a smaller slender one that you can use together, or separately. When used separately, both are too small to grip properly. When used together, the bulbous part gets in the way a lot of times, and it's missing the free-spinning end cap, which infuriated me when trying to apply pressure and screw at the same time.
Finally, the my favorite kit and the one I would recommend, is the Orange Packaged "JAKEMY" branded one.
It has more or less the same bits as the other two. Has the free-spinning end cap. The best part is that the magnet is STRONG. It holds the bits in place securely, and can pick up loose screws with ease. A lot of time it picks up more than 1 screw from a pile, which can be annoying, but I'd much prefer this over not strong enough
Just one ok 2 recommend for ya Get rid of the Tamper Proof drivers and get this it takes a lot less room.
love the snap-on driver. Also swap out the 3/8 wrench for a 3/8 - 7/16 Combo if your doing closer work.
Guess I'm going to have to breakdown my Everyjob Backpack and snap a pick now. Front Pocket, Back Pocket, Front.
I do a lot of Access Control work,
Hard to tell from the photo but I have a similar one I picked up from ifixit years ago. They've altered their design since, but this one also looks similar https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071PB4RPV
Have a similar set gifted to me by my late father. 3 years in. Not a single bit missing.
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75992-Precision-Interchangeable-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4
More bits for your buck.
I've looked an an Ifixit bit set that someone I know bought and it's not very high quality, not terrible but, not great.
I personally have this set: http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75992-Precision-Interchangeable-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427321240&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=wiha+bit+set and it is very very good. ESD safe handle for electronics.
Here is a link to an Amazon listing. But there were a lot of various brands and options when I searched “left hand drill bit” so you can browse and make a choice of your favorite.
Impact driver?
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Impact screw driver, it's a tool you put a bit in (i.e Phillips or torx in BMW's case) set the direction, and give it a whack with a hammer. 99% of the time the rotor carrier screw comes loose. Here's one on Amazon
Big tip - only cars with wheel studs (Germans and now FCA vehicles) need the screw re-installed.
Domestic and Japanese using wheel nuts, use the screw to hold the rotor in place while the vehicle is being built, (so a rotor doesn't fall off the car and hit a factory worker) apart from that it doesn't really serve a purpose.
You can get away without using it on the German cars too, but you have to make sure if the bolt snapped that it's flush with the hub.
It's really annoying trying to get the stud through the wheel then the rotor and then to the hub with out the screw holding the rotor in place.
You need one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MbX3Bb9Y8YFD0
May be too late now that you've drilled it, but for next time these are magical.
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rp.ZDb3MSFFNV
TEKTON 2910 1/2-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_atUTBbTMV4HHR
Honestly, it looks like you just need to find a better flathead and then give'er. That's barely stripped at all.
If you have an impact driver, chuck up a flathead bit and bear down on it to prevent the bit from jumping out and stripping.
Something like this is the nuclear option. It's a hand impact, you strike it downwards with a hammer and that applies a twisting motion. Works great because of the combination of impact and that the same strike is driving the bit down to make sure it doesn't strip out.
Black and Decker Drill
Bit Set
Total: $49.70
You need one of these.
Not op, but it is not hard at all. Just takes some common sense and the proper tools. I highly recommend this pocket ratchet off Amazon. It is very helpful with the tight spaces. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LnC6Cb0ZVA1PR
There's this, slightly more sleeker: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502386666&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=bit+driver
Or, if you don't have a multi-tool yet, grab a Skeletool or Wave and the Leatherman bits.
They're considered by a lot of people to be the best out there. I have not used better ones and have not heard about better ones (but if there are I would love to know!).
Plus, they make a cool little kit version containig everything you'd need for knives. You can get away with a T6 and T8 for a while, but eventually you're going to start running into T5s, T7s, T9s, etc.
[Wiha Torx Set] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001US4RMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XEB7yb4EMKWCZ)
Felo Bit Driver
I can't recommend both of these enough. For strictly knife related purposes, a stubby bit driver might be a little easier to use but the Felo is great all around.
Your bag may or may not be EDC by definition but here is a quick pack outline.
Bag: Vertx EDC Gamut
This is a CCW oriented bag, search LoadedPocketz and Youtube for reviews and the bag in action. There's a ton of organization in it for carrying lots of stuff, plus it's loaded with Velcro so you can either use Velcro add-on's or use their Tactigami to convert anything Molle to attach to their velcro.
Organizers - The Gamut is great but you might want to throw in something like a Maxpedition EDC/Beefy/Fatty to organize tools and supplies as needed, plus you can take them out of the bag if you want to be more mobile. E.G. leave bag in car but take IT toolkit with you to a site.
Tools:
Small light with multiple settings you so can use low settings for close up work with minimal reflection, or full brightness for other uses. Lots of lights will work for this purpose, headlamps work even better for hands-free but you'll look like a dork.
Then you have the EDC items you'll hear most people say:
I've got something similar, but it's a Wiha: http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B002PJ3IYE?tag=adapas02-20
Very easy to carry it around.
Bought this set years ago and it's covered pretty much every small electronic device I've had to work on.
Has TR6-TR9, TR15 along with small Phillips, Tri-wing (Nintendo), and Pentalobe (iPhone) bits.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Precision-Electronic/dp/B009MKGRQA/
Harbor Freight on North Cunnigham in Urbana usually has this set in stock, and it includes a P5.
The ECE Supply Center (https://my.ece.illinois.edu/storeroom/catalog.asp) looks like it probably has a set or two that has a P5, but I don't know if it'd be open on Labor Day or not.
Sold out, Amazon is an option - anyone find anything else? A kit with all this stuff would be nice but Amazon is only showing me T9 rather than the TR9 when it comes to the kits they sell
Edit: bought this bad boy
I have this set. Great little set.
I am still waiting on my kit but I like you did some research and was told to make sure you have a 4mm hex bit along with the proper size screw driver. This is the tool kit that was recommended:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just did this myself.
A couple tips.
Here's the clear shell: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075JJ2KH5
Get this screwdriver kit: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA
Precision tweezers also help a lot.
You'll need 3 bits out of that kid and the little plastic tool that comes with it.
That's it!
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-763198-1-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B000O3I5GY
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-B-34833-8-Inch-Adapter-9-Piece/dp/B00DR4G7BM
All of these things were worth at least 5 times what I paid as far as I’m concerned.
For next time :)
I've used 3 different right angle drill attachments in the last few years. The first was a Milwaukee 110º one and it was alright, price was 15 dollars, I've killed that one. Then I bought this one for 20 at the time and it has been great, way nicer than my first adapter. I am still using it today.
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/
My friend has this 50 dollar Milwaukee one and its amazing. Way nicer than my dewalt and it can take a lot of torque. I've never got one since its a little bit thicker than the dewalt and most of the time space is an issue for me.
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-22-8510-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B000BYEJ02/
Any idea what type of commercial installation?
Judging by the tools they asked you to bring you're probably doing duct wrap (insulation). Have a pair of snug fitting work gloves with the rubber palms.
As for general tools:
Klein 11-in-1 (philips, flat head, 1/4 5/16 3/8 nut driver)
Vise grips
needle nose pliers - like these
Channel locks - a set like this is nice. for everyday use you only need the larger channel lock and the needlesnose
Ratcheting set - something like this. there are cheaper options available. Pro-tip, get a carabiner and slide on 1/4" up to 3/4" since those seem to be the most common.
Utility Knife - I prefer these over the sliding ones especially when working with fiberglass
Tape measure - this is the one I've had for the longest.
Adjustable wrench - large and small are good to have
most importantly!
memo book / notepad
ballpoint pen
2 or 3 black sharpie markers
For the first day you probably won't need them, but aviation snips are good to have. Bender and crimper's are good to have.
I noticed someone mentioned an impact driver. First day? I don;t think it's necessary. By your first pay check you should definitely get one though. Talk to the guys in your shop and see what they use. Each worker, company and type of HVAC will demand a different kind of screw gun / impact driver. Rather than dumping a couple hundred on a machine that may not be best for the job, just see what they are using. Maybe pickup a tip set though, just in case. If you have to borrow a screw gun for any reason you'll at least have your own tips.
I think I found it on Amazon. Looks the same.
I went with this one to fit under the seat of my bike. The main missing tool that I had to add was this.
I always bring a few items to every show I do to prevent those "oh shoot!" moments:
Ninja edit for links and more detail.
This will save you more trouble beside a PS4 .https://www.amazon.com/Oria-Precision-Screwdriver-Professional-Electronics/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494717438&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=screwdriver+kit
This ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Repair Tool Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Precision Screwdriver Kit, Flexible Shaft, for 8, 8 Plus/Smartphone/Game Console/Tablet/PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hr0vCbWAS8NP4
Amazon sells a ton of sets like this for cheap. I keep one in my gun toolbox and one in the 'junk drawer'.
https://www.amazon.com/Oria-Precision-Screwdriver-Professional-Electronics/dp/B01E16J6RQ
This is the kit I used, comes with everything and more for a fraction of the price.
You could probably buy the two as a set on eBay for like $7. Or for double that you could get yourself a nice screwdriver set. This is the one I have.
If you do electronics stuff fairly regularly, I'd recommend one of the ifixit kits. They're kinda pricy but really high quality bits.
You can get cheaper ones that are still pretty good like this screwdriver kit for $15, https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525454044&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Screwdriver+kit
Or if you want one with every little tool you could ever possibly need this is a good deal for $35. https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Precision-Screwdriver-Magnetic-Electronics/dp/B06Y2N568J/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525454044&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=Screwdriver+kit&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2FOADTO08BQD0
Just don't get one of the sub $10 kits that come with all sorts of extra junk, those bits and tools are really low quality in my experience.
You can fix them yourself easy, the disconnect problem isn't a bad antenna, it's the fact that there's nothing to insulate the antenna from interference. Takes just a few minutes to fix.
Here https://youtu.be/qzM1gqrRoqA If you have a little piece of conductive foam you can use that, this guy uses a piece from a different part of the joycon, which is super convenient, or you can use a new piece if you have some, or you can use a little piece of foil wrapped in electrical tape, that's what I did. But following this guy's video should work the same. I did this fix over a year ago, and have had no lag or sync issues since then.
I used this tool kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E16J6RQ
This one has the tweezers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMLCYVU
Use coupon code B01EMLCYVU and it's $6.92. (You can just redeem directly too, it's under the price.)
Only 45 piece instead of 58 though.
See that screw on the top with the two holes? That's called a security screw.
To remove it, you need security bits! (Bit driver sold separately)
https://smile.amazon.com/Bastex-Tamper-Proof-Security-Screw/dp/B01HIUGGQQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520048307&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=security+bit+set&amp;psc=1
This is what I bought for tinkering with my electronics with those fasteners
Of course. Glad to do it. If you follow some basic instructions it can be VERY VERY easy. The big stuff you will need:
most of the time HDD replacement is fairly easy. you usually just open a compartment, unplug some wires, unscrew some screws and then do the same steps in reverse order to complete the upgrade.
The parts AND tools listed above come to about $70 plus tax for a brand new SUPERFAST hard drive. If you wanted to do a RAM upgrade at the same time, I would estimate that to be around a $60 cost, putting your TOTAL ALL IN COST at $130, down from $400 lol.
You can do it!!
and feel free to ask any questions you like.
No downsides. I followed this guide. Just be careful and take your time. There are lots of small parts and it can get frustrating. I suggest taking plastic cups and keeping the screws from each step separate and labeled. Here are the tools I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071PB4RPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXXQHS8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have 75992 and really like it.
Sounds like you need a torx driver like this set.
Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k5mDDb0TYJHX3
Is that flange metal or plastic?
I'd drip a little oil down there. PB blaster if you have it. WD-40 or light machine oil if you don't.
Then get a set of left-hand drill bits and pick a small one. Go slowly with the drill in reverse and try to get it to bite. If the hole gets ~1/4" down and it hasn't bit in yet, try the matching extractor. If that doesn't work, move up a drill bit size and extractor size.
Eventually it'll get to the point where you've just drilled out the whole screw--destroying the threads in the flange in the process. This is okay. If it gets that far, get a tap in the next larger size and replace the screw with that larger size. And get a stainless screw for sure. And wax or copper grease it to help keep it from freezing to the flange in the future.
... nope...
An impact driver imparts not only a rotational force but additionally a linear force along the axis of rotation of the fastener. You're just hitting a wrench with a hammer.
This is what a manual, or as you said "analog", impact driver looks like
Edit: I'm full of shit don't listen to me
If you can find someone with one of these, they will work.
For oil change, a standard socket set, a drain pan and maybe an oil filter wrench is all you really need.
Depending on what you’re doing with your carbs, you might invest in an impact hammer set like this one: TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8VjCCbNQD190X. This will prevent stripping the screws during disassembly.
You might also want to do a valve check which will require some feeler gauges. If you wanna cheap out on a valve adjustment, you can use some sand paper to bring your shims into spec. Otherwise you’re gonna need to buy some replacement shims.
Tekton makes a set for about $15, the are worth every penny.
Amazon link
I don't know how the rotors are attached to the bearing/hubs in your car, but if they happen to be held in with screws like my car (Honda Fit), get yourself one of these. It'll rotate and push the screw at the same time, limiting the chances of stripping the screw. As for the actual replacement, look up Youtube videos specifically about your car, and pay attention to what the dude says. Try to get atleast two supports when your car is jacked up, as a safety measure. When you've installed your new brakes, look up how to break in your brakes. Oh and one more thing, make sure to mount your brake pads on the right side :)
But most importantly, enjoy it!
It all depends on how much you want to spend. There's some decent drill and driver kits out there, like this one: link. That's got a ton of driver bits in it though, and it's probably much more than you'll need for basic home improvements.
Black and Decker also sells a combo kit, but it may be too extreme in the other direction, because it's pretty basic in the drill bit area: link.
You could always get a decent set of drill bits, and then pick up a separate set of drivers. Here's a basic set of drivers for $3.80
Edit: I just saw your edit. Maybe the second link would be in your range?
When you get around to it you should definitely treat yourself. Hex ratchets are total game changers. They work super fast and they are way better for hard to reach bolts. They also make assembling IKEA furniture a breeze.
This one is only $9 and gets good reviews. No tire lever but totally worth having in the toolbox.
Not reading all of the comments but pick up a nanodriver. Used the hell out of mine today upgrading turbos on a 535.
https://www.amazon.com/03044A-4-Drive-Mini-size-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=B45R4EVNHYNTR9NPAERZ
I like these a lot. They are quite handy because you can change the bits. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=55650310786&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwkK_qBRD8ARIsAOteukD89A_TSwzoF-BxcrW5Uad5wt-F7E5qkiQd_HYTf4KygStUlugYLIoaAv_VEALw_wcB&amp;hvadid=274682060829&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9030230&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=11339089793462780458&amp;hvtargid=kwd-301900027570&amp;hydadcr=20349_9348757&amp;keywords=ratcheting+bit+driver&amp;qid=1565309677&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GSTDDb04N34PC
This little thing made the whole process much easier. And all the screws are torn bits size 15 and the wrench come with the bit you need.
Dunno what country you're in, but the appropriate name for the tool to hit these screws is called a "Close quarters ratcheting screwdriver", and can be had for ~$10 for a pretty good one.
I have one like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6
Really?! Is this what the instruction say to do? Those should have been allens if that's the case.
&#x200B;
This will do the trick if you have to go buy something.
Backs are easier than fronts... but make sure you have something like this to screw in the backs.
The part the instructions didn’t help:
After I figured out how the S clips go on in the most illogical way, everything else is easy... also, don’t forget the spacers in the front!
I used a 90° screw driver like this to avoid taking the wheel off.
This. Here's a link to the set.
I have THIS torx set. I like it. I have been thinking about getting a 2nd one. You would also need a bit holder with this.
I free hand sharpen with dmt stones, but I hear good things about the Spyderco sharpmaker (be sure to get the diamond rods). I use a Flexxx strop (USA Made blades) and Bark River compound. There are a few good strop makers here on reddit too. A lot of people use nano-oil as lube. I use flouro grease and militec oil.
p.s. this torx set is the shiznit!
Wiha Tools makes the best micro screwdriver bits around, and some of their products are available on Amazon. If I were in your shoes I'd buy this
My personal solution is to keep a Leatherman Wave with a Leatherman pocket clip in my EDC backpack along with a Leatherman Bit Kit that I've modified with a Nite Ize pocket clip and some gorilla tape. Anytime I need to do some screw driving I just clip the wave and bits onto my pocket and they're incredibly accessible.
Get a Wiha Torx Set and never worry again.
Lots of knives. Bedroom stuff. A lighter. A box of matches. This awesome microdriver.
I've had this set for over two years. When one finally breaks or I lose one ( mostly the tiny ones) I just buy the single bit of the same kind. They work really well on metal and plastic. They're for making jokes in plywood or through a 2x4.
DEWALT DW1361 Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit Set, 21-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GIO0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Gbtywb2RR9JW9
Rockler has a set of woodworking bits that I pull out when I'm working on something nice like a box or some nice hardwoods.
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-25-pc-hss-brad-point-bit-set
Hope this helps!
First i'd snag this, every dude needs a good set of tools anyway
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
with that you can unscrew the bottom case and then just aircan everything/ look at the vents to see if there is lint.
WARRNING*** Air cans are an endothermic liquid reaction. Dont be an idiot and point the can upside down as then you'd just be spraying subzero liquid all over your computer.
When you shoot compressed air at the fan/ vents you'll usually see a cloud of dust if its been a few months.
https://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Compressed-Gas-Duster-Pack/dp/B00DZYEXPQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474916670&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=air+can
This is your laptop https://linustechtips.com/main/uploads/monthly_2016_04/Dell-XPS-15-9550-Disassembly-1.jpg.19236a764c57f928c6aefa7ca5b8b72f.jpg
Air can everything, why not, but focus on the fans/ the vents leading out of the fans. and scoop out any visable lint. also dont aircan the fans into them spinning craizly that's a good way to fuck up the fans because you can actually spin them up to some crazy rpms if you go full retard.
Just a suggestion, [this:] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Precision-Electronic-27-Piece/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_6?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468693084&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=tekton+tools) is a good investment. I've used it for smartphones, laptops, DSLR cameras, Xbox remotes, and more, but like others are saying, on ebay you might get lucky and find a listing with a screw driver included, or just flat out find it cheaper.
This kit comes with lots of tips, extenders, a case, and another tool which I haven't found a use for yet, all for $11. You might even be able to find it cheaper somewhere else!
I believe that the newer models uses a pentalobe 1 head, and yeah you can just screw them back in.
I would recommend buying this
I bought this tekton screwdriver kit and it's worked beautifully for everything I've needed so far. If you ever need more, the iFixit Mako is worth every penny.
This is what I used along with a set of tweezers and a magnet to magnetize the bits, I'm sure they have sets that aren't that much more expensive with both included.
TEKTON 2830 Everybit (TM) Precision Bit and Driver Kit for Electronic and Precision Devices, 27-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009MKGRQA/
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Electronics-Precision/dp/B009MKGRQA
I've got this one.
Best? Probably not. We've been firm believers in the Husky ones where I used to work: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-1-Precision-Slotted-and-Philips-Screwdriver-Set-71281H/204664388
I used to take laptops apart for hours every day, it always seemed to do me well. I slighly preferred their older style (looked like this)
Basically they work well until they get lost, and they're cheap enough to just repurchase.
I also used this at another job: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009MKGRQA
Not amazing quality, but I liked the selection of bits. Also cheap.
You won’t need that.
Also tons of kits, all over the price range. Here is an example.
TEKTON 2830 Everybit (TM)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009MKGRQA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Will most likely only need one.
Should get this little guy though, super handy.
Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1#
Just bought this set to use to install some SSDs in my MBPs works great and cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got this one: http://amzn.com/B009MKGRQA
Now I can open up my knives as well as my Apple electronics.
I have this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pDOpDbJ4JM57C but it's bulkier than what you show in the picture. Not sure of a slimmer option, but the DeWalt is a lifesaver and of good quality.
I would think if you have a drill bit that doesn't have a smooth shank, it could work for drilling. The piece I linked accepts standard hex shank bits, so a drill bit without a smooth shank could work
At my house we have a horizontal 2x4 as well and the way we got around it is to make a small hole right above or below the horizontal beam then use a 90 degree drill bit tool thingy and drill a small hole through the beam. Then when you drop the cable from the attic down, one person can look through the dry wall hole and navigate the cable through the hole in the beam.
Edit: this:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARAFS-Right-Angle-Shaft/dp/B013UBXU3E/
Or this:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ
These are the bits I got:
DEWALT DWA2T40IR IMPACT READY FlexTorq Screw Driving Set, 40-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMXFK3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FtiXBb4BHHXY9
So help me out here, I've had this Wera set on my Amazon wish list for awhile. At $65.99 for 30 pieces, you're spending $2.20 per bit.
That price is considerably more than comparable sets like this 40-piece DeWalt set that goes for $24.98 ($0.63/bit), or this 42-piece Milwaukee set for $19.98 ($0.48/bit). This means the per-bit price of the Wera set is between 3.5 and 4.6 times that of comparable sets made by two other major manufacturers.
Do you really get that much more life out of the Wera bits to justify the huge jump in price?
here you go
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8MYMT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yWIoDbFQDM4JB
edit, they also have imperial, if youre into that
I would return if it is not the quality you expected. Wiha is supposed to be a premium brand. None of the pictures look like major issues, but you are paying for something that is supposed to be nice. You could even save a few dollars and buy this https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056490-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B00I8MYMT2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493311078&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wera+set
Any SSD will be an upgrade. I believe the late 08 can go to 8gb of RAM, if it can, I'd do that with the SSD, you'll extend it a few years easily, though you're stuck at El Cap, I believe.
480 GB SSD for 130
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-SDSSDA-240G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491107037&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=480gb%2Bssd&amp;th=1
Screwdriver kit (if you don't have one, you'll need a Phillips #0 and a Torx T5 or 6 for the hard drive nubbins, skip if you have one!) for 15
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A13PRKMVKLJGWH
IDE/SATA to USB (if you want to copy data from old HDD to the SSD. Ignore if you want to start fresh) for 11.
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B01J7MWD4M/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491107469&amp;sr=1-18&amp;keywords=ide+sata+to+usb
Yea "Superdrive" is an old Apple term for the CD/DVD drive. I would get a magnetic screwdriver set like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone/dp/B015F734P0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503856698&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=magnetic+screwdriver
I dropped tiny screws multiple times and I definitely wished I had bought one myself when I did it lol.
Have you opened up a laptop to upgrade RAM or hard drive before? If not study a few YouTube videos to see if it's something you'd be willing to undertake.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F734P0/
Grab something like this,l have a couple just like this and they have almost everything you could need
This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.
Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
\^ This.
I hate when people say things like what I am about to say but in this case it is true.
If you don't even have the tools to open the drive, this is not the project for you. Opening a hard drive yourself to recover data is a really terrible idea when you are talking about exposing the platters. There is a reason data recovery is so expensive and it isn't just because they have high profit margins.
In the event that there isn't any data on there that you care about and you want to give it a go as an academic exercise....that is a horse of a different color.
A T9 is actually pretty big. In my bag with me I have a kit that includes a T3 through T8 and it wouldn't surprise me at all if your drive required something in that range.
If you live near a Micro Center you can pick up something like this kit. It is quite usable.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/441261/54_bit_driver_kit
I actually have the Inland "ufixit" generic version from Micro for under $20 and it's really handy.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/486365/uFixit_Bit_Driver_Kit_-_54_Pieces
If you don't have a Micro Center nearby, try something like this on Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ
I've used both of these cheaper kits by ORIA and they've been fantastic! Not sure about UK availability, but might be worth a look.
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536259932&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=screwdriver+kit
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Cellphone/dp/B01IVKPTP6/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536259932&amp;sr=8-21&amp;keywords=screwdriver+kit
I have this, the ifixit and another one from ORIA that was on sale a few days ago (https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1541607353&sr=8-7&keywords=computer+tool+kit).
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If you want to buy this one and have it as a backup or keep it at a secondary area like your car, home or work, its a great deal. But if you want one that you want to use as your main toolkit, go with the Ifixit. I had this one and the ORIA one I sent the link of first, and they were great. But once I tried the ifixit, I was more than pleased.
FWIW I bought the set linked below when I needed to open up my Nexus 9 to replace the battery. It has quickly become my favorite kit for everything, in particular the hex bits are nice for not having to go hunting around for an allen wrench.
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/
I'm not positive, but I think a stripped screw might equal a D. Odd it stripped, unless there was loctite added. Bummer you couldn't get it out even if ruined, cause benchmade would send a screw, I think.
I recommend this bit kit. Wiha are expensive but great. I've had great luck with this one myself and have recommended it to others who have liked it. Really great handle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E16J6RQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Take the card out of the case, and have a good look at how to fans are attached to the heatsink, there should be a way to get the fans off. You'll most likely need a control screw driver to remove the tiny screws mounting the GPU fans to the heatsink.
Once the fans are off, there should be a sticker on the back side of the fan motor. This doubles as the back cover and seal of the motor of itself. Peel it off and you will see a bearing(most likely sleeve bearing instead of ball, Cheapo-depot) with a small portion of the fan shaft protruding through it. It will be held in place by a small round plastic retaining clip. Put a small drop of oil on the bearing under the retaining clip(don't go crazy or it will fly everywhere when you turn the fan on) I use stuff like 3-in-one and spin it by hand. Put the sticker back on, if it got oil on it and won't stick properly just and a tiny amount of super glue and hold it until dry.
There are many types of fans on gpus, some will come apart how I described, some will be a low profile two piece fan with a solid back that you have to pull apart. I'm not going to describe it, I'm dumb and should just link a guide
Technically if the fans noisy, the bearing is most likely shot. However I've had numerous fans run for a very long time(still are in fact) without noise just by using this method.
edit: Screwdriver set I don't own personally but will definitely work
All of the screws are Phillips type M2 screws. I have this toolkit and use the 2.0/PH0 head for mostly everything.
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Service Manual is here, and includes the screw list
The coupon code is ZDAU28AE for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMLCYVU
for $6.92
open the window+open the door
Or you can buy one of these to remove the window stopper. But do it at your own risk.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HIUGGQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R.cvDbVWYX2XS
https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Tamper-Proof-Security-Screw/dp/B01HIUGGQQ
You need tamper proof torx or google security bit set.
It depends...Due to a medical issue my hands shake a fair bit so I used one of these: https://amazon.com/General-Tools-500-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002XZLTQO and drove the screws all the way but stopped just short of tightening then did the final tightening by hand with a hex key or the hand driver in the kit linked below. It beat dropping the allen key on the floor every 4 minutes! Now this power driver uses 4mm shank "micro bits" and the German tool makers Wiha and Wera, which are seriously pro grade and expensive as all hell, market these bits but this kit I linked to will supply you with all the bits you need and then some.
https://amazon.com/Syntus-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Cellphone/dp/B071PB4RPV
Oh, and use lithium AAA batteries in your driver as it'll kill regular batteries in just a few hours.
Full disclosure I have zero, nill, null, nadda financial interest in the above linked items.
I've used this cheap kit from amazon to put together a few PCs, do some laptop repair, and pretty much any thing else that didn't require insulated tools or a drill. The bits didn't snap the moment I misused them, so the quality is decent. The included hex/socket(?) is also great for putting in standoffs. The handle leaves a bit to be desired in ergonomics, but you could always buy a more comfortable handle - these bits are a standard size.
edit: fixed link to make automod happy
I'm not sure of a specific brand, just try to find something like this
A security bit set will have it. They sell a red case a lot of hardware stores with a ton of oddball bits. I got my kit for $10 at harbor freight.
edit: here is an amazon link https://www.amazon.com/100-Piece-Security-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Vanadium/dp/B0744BTGJ8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=security+bit+set&qid=1563728809&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Boxer - Boxer 30 Pcs 4mm Precision Screwdriver Set - PK30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O..YzbM6B48CZ
I've had this kit for years since my day job was repairing computers. It hasn't failed me yet.
If you want a much nicer set wiha is one of the best brands when it comes to precision screwdrivers
Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qbaZzbCKNSP8S
if you want to stick with wiha and get a bit of other bits
cheapest wiha set
[this is what I used a for along time, the other bits come in handy for random jobs but it's a cheap metal that will warp sometimes. I mainly use the micro bit holder for my wiha bits now]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYM7W6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UcmTCbSMSF3KB)
the cheapest micro bit holder, they other bits probably suck but the holders are usually fine, I mean, how can you really screw that up
I got this set. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WTBO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 because you never if you'll need something other than a torx, like with the Sebenza that uses hex.
Wiha, I bought this set when it was on sale a while ago to cover all my bases for knives and absolutely love it. I'm sure they have a torx set or something smaller closer to what you're looking for though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WTBO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The cooling system seems like a leaky mess, but I got it cleared up (for now). I'm not sure which part of the process fixed the problem, but I removed the IACV and replaced the two coolant hoses then reinstalled the IACV. After clearing the fault codes and running the engine again, I haven't had any codes pop up since. Even managed to pass a smog check. A few other coolant leaks came up after that, but I've fixed those as well. Basically every coolant hose in the car is new now, so I hope it'll stop leaking.
As for the power steering pump bolt, there is still half of the old bolt stuck inside. Is the best way to remove it using a screw extractor thing like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Extractor-Extractors-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/ ?
For the exhaust manifold leak, it seems like one of the bolts I broke is a stud bolt installed on the exhaust manifold. Would it be possible to remove the stud bolt and replace it? It is #12 in this diagram: http://hondapartsnetwork.com/assembly/images/detail/3309514.png
I'm happy the car finally runs well enough for me to worry about things like a leaky exhaust now.
Thanks for the help.
I like extractor sets with reverse drill bits. Often they'll come out before you have a chance to use the extractor.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Alloy-Extractor-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450035946&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=extractor+set+with+reverse+bits
OK, so what I purchased from Harbor Freight was somthing similar to this:
* https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Extractor-Extractors-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1554384193&s=gateway&sr=8-12
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However if you already have drill bits, including a small enough one for that buffer, then you'll just want one of these.
* https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-TIAMAT-Hardness-Extractors-Stripped/dp/B07GLPLV78/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1554384193&s=gateway&sr=8-11
* https://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Extractor-Stripped-Remover-Queenti/dp/B07P668VWV/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=screw+extractor+kit&qid=1554384193&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
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{edit}
Forgot to say, if you already do have the drill bits, I would recommend #2 of the other 2 options, as those bits are double sided for more dual purpose work.
Not to mention if you're going to be working on a bike being able to remove stupid JIS or Phillips screws without stripping them is invaluable. Buy this and move on with your life. JIS tip not included.
These do a great job also until the head is fully rounded out
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b0OkDbAQAGG1H
You need an impact driver,
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_VVNsDbWB1P6WT
Some like this are cheap, nicer ones are out there but if you only need it once it might not be worth it.
I have had to use one on my first bikes brake reservoir, and 3 of my friends... they come in handy.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511535850&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=manual+impact
Get a manual impact for that. Every hit on it turns the driver, so you have maximum force on each turn.
/u/dhroknoobx
Get you an impact screwdriver. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/
And you absolutely need one of these!
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BpUDDbSQB0RGV
Impact Screwdriver
> As an aside, just bite the bullet and drill those damn screws out.
If the heads haven't been ruined yet, on a 2010 they should come out pretty easily with an impact screwdriver, which you can sometimes rent from auto parts stores.
The hollow sound definitely makes me think there's either a dented dust shield or a piece of debris stuck between the shield and rotor. However, I had a grinding noise sort of like this once that turned out to be one of the pad clips having slightly cracked and warped such that it could rub the rotor under braking.
You could try buying an impact driver and using that, which could deliver more torque to the screw than you can with just a regular screw driver.
This is what I mean
There is a manual impact driver that will work better than any electric driver. You basically put it on the screw then hit it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow hammer for best results) and it will literally break any screw loose, I’ve used one for many years in the navy on gun mounts when the screws were seized in place due to the rust.
The benefits are that it won’t strip the screws out and it’s cheap enough that you can pick it for about $20 or less at places like harbor freight.
The down side is that it can be hard to use sometimes when in a tight spot while trying to hit the head and it’s not as fast as an electric impact.
If I were you I would use the manual impact to break them loose then use the electric impact to speed up the removal. Here’s a amazon link so you can see what it looks like TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pxIZDbMCYSWGE
I can't tell if you have room, but if you do, I'd try one of these along with a hammer.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=asc_df_B000NPPATS/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=312003160272&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=12452659071865179839&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9016344&amp;hvtargid=pla-420785539586&amp;psc=1
This thing is more of what i'm talking about.
amazon
Start with tons of lube(I like Kroil and LiquidWrench), then use an impact driver with the correct size bit.
You might want to consider, depending on how tough the thing you're working on is, a manual impact driver.
Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).
Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!
So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters
Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.
Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.
Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.
Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:
Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!
Obviously that was sarcasm.
You could always pick up a hand impact driver like this.
Also you could try trying to turn both directions. Sometimes all you need to do is get it moving.
Also you could use a propane torch to heat the bolt, and give it a few heat cycles.
but wait, there's more!
Black & Decker 71-081 Double Ended Screwdriving Bit Set, 10-Piece by Black & Decker http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RH3DW8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_P-fntb1A9BFEY
This is only 1.16 and free shipping. If you are doing an order that can have an add-on item this is $4. Thanks for the contest!!!
id go back to the dealership but I have no desire to wait for their service dept to get to me nor to go all the way over there.
but you've def inspired me to try again. I just got the larger screw heads linked below (FFS I really need these anyway since I lose them so often).
I don't think I need power tools. honestly, you typically get more torque out of your arm than the power tools can put out.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RH3DW8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
What you are describing sounds like this:
GearWrench 9008 1/4-Inch Combination Ratcheting Wrench by Apex Tool Group http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYD44/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_YDS0tb09EZ2G5
But this may be a better fit:
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive by Neiko http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_8FS0tb012H4Q2
Hope this helps!
Not a dumb question at all. I’m really bad with cars even though I love them and I was able to handle the install. YouTube videos showed people removing the rear wheels. While that would probably make it a bit easier, I was able to do it without taking the wheels off.
For BRZ/FRS ‘13 - ‘16, there shouldn’t be any drilling needed. The 17’s however will need some holes drilled. Best of luck.
Btw, this tool came in super handy since the space was really tight:
ratcheting right andgle screw driver
Might be handy:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=sr_1_45?keywords=pocket%2Bscrewdriver&qid=1563846629&s=gateway&sr=8-45&th=1
You will need to remove the gearbox and pop the right side selector cover off to do it. I use a ratcheting screwdriver to tighten them so I don't have to pop the cover off. I would put loctite on it to prevent it from backing off again.
The Classic Army MOSFET has 3 QD connectors to remove it from the gun. I have a video on taking the CA skirmish guns apart.
I cannot fathom what you are trying to describe, but maybe this tool will help?
I am reluctant to out myself by connecting /u/pbjamm to me IRL but I will gladly answer any questions you have. Here is a post I made when I finished the first half of the project. After talking to Bus Depot about this they suggested I might have to loosen the top corners of the tent up a bit. I undid them and pulled the top front as tight as I could and screwed it back down. Be sure to do that the first time as it was a total bitch to get that back up into place with the bottom connected already but not impossible. The extra 1-2cm was enough to get the bottom tacked down in the back. Working in the bottom back was by far the hardest part of the project. There is so little room to work I could barely see what I was doing. I highly recommend a ratcheting screwdriver for getting into the tight places. As I said before the finished project is tight, like a drum head. I was genuinely worried when I popped the top the first time, but it can stretch. I dont think I have any in process photos as I was too busy sweating and cursing to work the camera.
If you need to screw at a right 90° angle where a normal screw driver wouldn't fit
Edit: he made a make shift one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_k5jBwbZ7BV9GH
something like this https://www.amazon.ca/Neiko-03044A-Mini-Size-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=AMBN4FAN905EVY73C3J5
Eh, there are tons of offset screwdrivers out there.
I've used this guy plenty, as long as you don't have to put too much torque on it, it works fine https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/
I have an update on my own blend door problem. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I went ahead and bought the Dorman replacement that I mentioned in my other comment and did it myself instead of taking it to Ford. I can confirm that the Dorman part is significantly heavier, physically thicker and higher quality than the OEM unit. The gear set is in a slightly different arrangement and the gears themselves are more robust. I can also confirm the overall shitty quality of the OEM part.
The install wasn't quite a nightmare, but it was challenging. I used this video as reference though I didn't have to take the driver's seat out. I also had this handy mini ratchet which was absolutely perfect for the job along with a T20 bit. Now the tricky part which I wasn't quite sure of going in: I switched the car on and turned off the HVAC assuming that doing so would put the actuator in some sort of parked position. This probably isn't necessary since it likely goes back to the same position when the car is turned off. Anyway, after removing the OEM blend door I noted which position the output shaft was in. There's a little arrow on the casing that part of the gear lined up with. The new unit's output shaft wasn't in the same orientation. So, I plugged the Dorman unit in but didn't install it, turned the car on and switched the HVAC on and off to put the new unit in the same position as the OEM one. After that I noticed the output shaft still wasn't in the correct orientation. So, I had to open it up and take out one of the drive gears so I could reorient the output shaft. Once I did this the new unit slid into position pretty easily and I tested it out and BAM, no noise and the climate control works as expected. Now to see if this one lasts longer than 13,000 miles but after seeing the two parts together I really think it will. Hope this helps someone!
Edit: So I've got everything in one place for people stumbling across this here's the link to the Dorman part. It is Dorman 604-400 Air Door Actuator replacing OE part BE8Z19E616B
Amazon link for those in the US.
You use a 90° racheting screwdriver to get at those. That's an example of a fancier one. There are cheaper ones.
Not necessarily
Get this and you should be able to do some basic maintenance. Also check our wiki page listed in the sidebar for the "Basic Maintenance" page on how to do certain things. Not listed in there is /u/crazymutherfucker 's video on how to apply loctite.
Wiha 79242 Bit Selector with Torx Bits, 10 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001US4RMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r2-mxb25PS75N
Looked into the brand. Think this set might do?
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-79242-Selector-Torx-Piece/dp/B001US4RMI/ref=sr_1_1
i use this one
I have a Wiha torx bit set from Amazon. It works perfectly well, but be aware that their torx bits don't carry a warranty, while their torx drivers do. I had one bit deform on a loctite-ed screw, but it takes some mighty force to break them like that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001US4RMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's the Wiha torx set, recommended by someone on here. So yeah, one of the screws are stripped, and I can't put tighten the other ones back now, as it seems to just keep spinning.
This is also a nice wiha set. Wiha 75093 Micro Bit Set with ESD Safe Handles, Slotted, Phillips and Torx, 16 Piece
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75093-System-Slotted-Phillips/dp/B002PJ3IYE
I have a Wiha Micro Bit Ratchet Set on my "Expensive Shit" Wishlist. It would make my life easier when I'm working on whatever laptop/desktop/gadget/etc. I have in front of me. I've been wanting something like this for a while, but haven't had a chance to buy it yet.
I already have this tool, but the ratchet set has way more going on! PLUS, getting the ratchet set would allow me to give this to someone I know who needs one.
Win-Win!
Thanks for the contest!
I highly recommend the Wiha 77790 Ultra Driver Multi Tool. Be sure to read the comparison chart to understand the different bit combinations available. I use the Tradesman model.
If you need something a little smaller consider the Wiha 75093 16 Piece System 4 ESD Slotted, Phillips and Torx Micro Bit Set either on its own or in addition.
If you’re looking for a good set of precision drivers I recently acquired the Xiaomi Wiha Precision Screwdriver Set, 24 Magnetic Driver Bit Set, Pocket Screwdriver Tool Set, Mini Screwdriver Kit, Repair Tool Kit for Electronics and am very pleased with them. If you’re willing to wait and run the risk of receiving a counterfeit product, you can also find this set (as I did) on Ali Express for a few less dollars.
FWIW I carried pocket knives on the NYC Subways for over 20 years without once attracting attention.
It's not the cheapest, but this Wiha set is what I use. A good torx set will go a very long way.
And Nano Oil.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002PJ3IYE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1408634558&amp;sr=1-3
This is it. It's an awesome screwdriver. The bits aren't magnetic which I thought would be bad but they are so good they don't need to be.
I've been using a regular cheap Dewalt drill set for everything [link] (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1361-Titanium-Pilot-21-Piece/dp/B004GIO0F8), whatever speed you feel comfortable at. If you drill enough they will dull, but mine haven't yet. Don't overthink it :)
I think I found the kit they are, here's a link for reference: DEWALT DW1361 Titanium Pilot Point Drill Bit Set, 21-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GIO0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mVLlzb08AERJN
What kind of work you doing? They have bits for all sorts of material and purposes. I have a set like this:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1361-Titanium-Pilot-21-Piece/dp/B004GIO0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483156997&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dewalt+drill+bit+set
It's the set I use most often for all my projects. I also have some different style sets for woodworking, plastic and metal, but these are my go to 90% of the time.
Haha I was actually looking at one of those 90 degree angle attachments, but figured I don't really need it yet. Will wait until it goes on clearance.
That makes sense about the bit holders though. Same thing, will wait to find some on sale since I don't need them urgently.
I came across this set of titanium bits on sale, but it only goes to 1/4. /u/blbd mentioned that this is probably the most cost effective option since it doesn't have the pricier bits, but it means if I ever need more bits, I would need a new case; this is why I was going to wait until this one goes on sale, but might be a silly endeavour.
Is this the knife you use currently? Only downside I've seen is someone people say it gets uncomfortable to hold - looks good otherwise.
that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.
Replenishables
contractor things
and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P
I've personally used the following kits:
Kit Option 1
Kit Option 2
Both are great. The second kit adds a few tools for mobile device repair/fat finger support.
Yup, I just replaced it and its been working fine ever since. There are various youtube videos on replacing the power supply, its easy. You'll need a TR8 screwdriver. I bought a set that costs around 15$ CAD. Power supply cost about 55$.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Precision-Electronic/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3I5S4DKEMKDAF&keywords=tekton+screwdriver+set&qid=1566453570&s=gateway&sprefix=tekton+sc%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-7
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.ca/ADP-240CR-Replacement-Playstation-CUH-1100A-CUH-1115A/dp/B07GYJWXZ7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2CIXD4AMOGG25&keywords=ps4+power+supply&qid=1566453593&s=gateway&sprefix=ps4+power+supply%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3
There are tons of guides and videos on youtube to help you out. Its not complicated. There are around 7 screws(4 on the back of the PS4 and 3 holding the power supply in) you gotta take out. Unplug it and pull it straight out while trying not to bend the prongs. Pop your new power supply and screw everything back up. Took me about 10 minutes. I hope that fixes your issue because if it doesn't, then it might be the logic board and you might need professional help.
In other words, if you've mastered the tool, you probably own it. If you can't be arsed to spend $11.11 on this and wait two days, then I wouldn't recommend you go "exploring". If you have done the basic research, you can't be kept out of anything. It isn't cryptography, for fuck's sake; it's a somewhat uncommon screw, the bits for which are easily available.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Link: this
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).
Get this. It has everything you need to fix and assemble most 3D printers.
TEKTON 2830 Precision Bit and Driver Kit for Electronic and Precision Devices, 27-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_npFlxbKGM4BG9
That SONOXY is probably fine, sorry I missed it on your list.
For precision something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_1
or if you are cheap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014X1KMWW?psc=1
for normal size screw driver, because I accidentally leave mine places all the time, I just get a cheap basic one. Used to get nice $30 ones but I just lose too many. I've never purchased tools from amazon either and not used to USD so kind of tough. As long as it has philips and flat head, square or whatever it's call you are a good. Any will have those.
I bought this set years ago - Tekton 2830 - and it's my go-to for all small electronics.
It has the PH00 you need for the DS4 and also the TR9 bit if you would ever want/need to fully open up your PS4.
Also has a bunch of special bits that are needed for iPhones, Wiis, Xboxes, and pretty much any other small electronics.
I bought this for fixing up Gamecube controllers because it has 2 triwing tips plus all kinds of other screwdriver heads - and the screwdriver handle is hollow with a cap so you can store the screws in there while you work. Highly recommend.
You'll need to go to a micro center or specialty computer store to get the screwdrivers, since they won't be available at a regular hardware store. You'll need a small phillips head for the back case and a star bit for the hard drive.
The difficult one is the tri-wing screwdriver that you need for the battery. This is a pretty cheap set that should cover all of the bits you will need
Hope this helps!
If you don't already have a set, you could try something like this maybe? I have the larger set (Seems pricey compared to the CDN price) which I am going to use to mount my block.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Precision-Electronic/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496867590&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tekton+everybit
I bought this one off amazon a little while ago and it works wonders for me. It has T-1 through T-10 which will cover all the hardware you're going to encounter. Plus it's cheap
if you're talking about the rubber on the joystick, you find find replacement joysticks on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-Replacement-Analog-Yellow-Replaces-Controller/dp/B004H7P0B6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421534140&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gamecube+joystick However, in order to open the controller, you need a tri-wing screwdriver: http://www.amazon.com/Tri-wing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Gamecube-Gameboy/dp/B000S6AG9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421534165&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=triwing+screwdriver Although, I would recommend not getting if from this seller (Just wanted to show the type of screwdriver needed). While it is cheap, a lot of people have waited 6+ weeks for it and nothing from the seller (me included). I would recommend buying this handy tool kit: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Electronics-Precision/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421534165&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=triwing+screwdriver replacing the joystick isn't that hard, everything fits into place
It depends on the quality. I have a couple sets from Wiha ranging from $15-50, but you certainly don't need to buy ones that nice. I bought a couple of these sets to give to people last year. I kept one for myself and it is percectly fine.
I have liked this Tekton 27 piece set for a while. I mostly like it because it comes with both size pentalobe bits, if you're doing any apple repair stuff. It comes as part of their 135 piece set too, which I think is a good deal. Reach isn't very long is the only real downside.
I have a MBP 2009, and i just replaced my battery: No bullshit, easiest thing i've ever done.
I bought this THIS Battery from Amazon and THIS toolkit for the Y-1 screwdriver (side note: you need this screwdriver; i opened up my MPB and saw the screws holding the battery in place and said "WTF IS THAT?" Checked Lowe's, Home Depot, and Radio Shack…none of them had it).
Take the plate off of your MPB, unscrew the two Y-1 screws, disconnect the battery cord (do not pull it out; there's a tab where in connects to the motherboard?…push it), plug in your new battery, screw it back in, put your cover back on, and BAM.
That was three weeks ago…no problems since.
Make sure you ground yourself first.
A new screen and back cover would be $68 from eBay, I just replaced the battery in mine and it's awesome, went from around 4 hrs of screen on time to 8 hrs. You can get a new screen and frame from eBay here for $57.66, and you can get a new back cover from $10.33-$19.51 (depending on color) here is Metallic Red, Black, and here's Ballistic Nylon Black, and Blue. I'm also assuming that you haven't replaced your battery either so here's the battery from Amazon for $12.98 if you want that too. If you don't have small screwdrivers/bits then you'll need to buy a cheap "mobile" work kit, I used this one from Texton for $9.24. It might seem easier to just buy a new phone, but there's nothing that really compares to the Turbo, I would also watch this video from JerryRigEverything on repairing the device before purchasing anything. The fact that the screen comes with the frame will make replacing the screen easier and you won't have to worry about applying adhesive or removing the frame from the old display, and there's a lot of adhesive holding the back cover on, when I replaced the battery I removed all of it and nothing is shaking around or loose. So for a new screen, frame, back cover, battery, and tools, it would be $90.21.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/
cut another hole above the stud, and use the following, and a 3/4 inch spade bit to cut a hole in the stud.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469205685&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=angle+drill
Can you get a right angle drill adapter to drill down from the attic?
Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/
Dewalt makes two attachments you could look at.
This is their impact driver rated right angle attachment. I use mine fairly often on the job, and it's held up to hard use, including running 1" spade bits with my impact driver. It's not something I use often but it can really get you out of a jamb.
They also make this flex shaft one, but I don't own one so can't personally comment on its toughness. It looks lighter duty but it would fit into even tighter or awkward spots.
Right-angle impact adapter
https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Adapter-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ
I use a Ridgid impact driver with self-feeding Speedbor Max bits. They require nearly no effort at all. As long as you can pull the trigger, you can drill. They also work with right angle adapters and extensions.
I charge my batteries at night if I remember. I'm curious what impact uses both batteries to drill through 6 2x4s.
A drill plus a right angle adapter
You can also use a much smaller drill, or even better a compact impact driver which is a lot smaller than even the smallest drills
What is your budget?
Here is my suggestion. Forget about getting hand screw drivers; IMO, waste of money unless if you are an electrician or need to pry something, they are bulky and waste time. I would suggest spend a few extra dollars and buy a electric screwdriver like this or an 12v impact like this with a bit set like this. Bit sets are great because your don't need to gave a bucket of screw drivers laying around and you with have every bit you need in a small form factor.
If our budget is tight check your pawn shops often and look for NEW or LIKE NEW versions of these tools. You can find them for cheap. Remember these tools will last you forever.
I like Wera tools. They aren't power driven, but they are really high quality and TOUGH.
I have one of these and it's my favorite thing EVER.
I got this set it was expensive but comes in handy all the time. amazon
Currently in my bag by default -
Leatherman Wave
Wera Tool Check+
Everything else travels in my work box, unless its a gig I cant get my box to then I pull out the essential bits for that job
Laptop: On-site warranty
Printers: Outsourced service / toner
Cisco IP Phones: Smartnet
It's not worth the time of our staff (both IT and the non-IT staff affected) to troubleshoot hardware issues. We just swap it out with a spare, then call in service or RMA the hardware.
Re: screwdriver sets... I wouldn't spend the extra money on the iFixIt brand stuff--it's pretty much the same as the Amazon link. Personally I've found most of them are the same... it just depends on the case you get and the case included with that is pretty crappy (it's essentially the VASTAR one but colored blue.. once that plastic insert gets lost or damaged [it'll probably arrive damaged, too] those bits are going to be flying all over the place and be impossible to close the case). I'd go for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00QZLV03O/ezvid02-20
A magnetic screw driver set helps out a lot.
I got this one
An ESD mat
and wrist strap are strongly recommended, though not required. There are other ways to ensure that you're grounded.
Thermal paste Along with some >90% alcohol to clean off the old thermal paste if needed.
And lots of patience. I assembled and disassembled my PC multiple times until I was happy with my cable management.
Got this one which I use on airs pros etc
I'm generally a bigger fan of plastic spudgers for disassembly.
I'm also a big fan of iFixIt, but this is a decent cheap screwdriver set. I have one of these in my car and in my laptop backpack at all times.
I also highly recommend a magnetizer/demagnetizer tool.
Found the one I mentioned in other post. This is what I have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F734P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OjW4BbDNZGZ60
Unfortunately, I can't tell you what kind of screws and which sizes are used. I don't believe there is a "standard" - so it might vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
One of these should have what you need, for sure. https://smile.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone/dp/B015F734P0/
Yeah but I would buy a whole kit, you will always need an assortment. This kit will be with you until you die, also it has magnetic tips so the tiny screws won't fall in a crack and disappear.
Vastar 62 in 1 with 56 Bit Magnetic Driver Kit, Precision Screwdriver Set Smart Phone Repair Tool Kit with Cleaning Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F734P0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvT9ybKWNRJJG
/u/MrVinceyvince
if the bit isn't in this kit I wouldn't know what to do myself...haven't found one yet....there is very few "electronic" security screw bits this does not have if any.
best $12-14 you will ever spend towards taking things apart.
Amazon
Vastar 62 in 1
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone/dp/B015F734P0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503977321&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=electronic+screwdriver+set
>> -64 bit iFixit kit(laptops and other small PC work)
> This is a solid piece of kit
Even then, most of those obscure bits he isn't going to use that often if ever. I've bought a kit similar to this one and that was at least 3 or 4 years ago and I still don't really have any major complaints about it other than the crappy tweezers that were in my kit but even those still do the job and don't really slow me down using them.
I believe the reason you're search isn't coming up with much is because it is the handles themselves which are magnetic, and it is passed through the bits. I would look into a kit like this, or possibly a magnetic ratcheting T handle and driver set.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015F734P0?psc=1
This may seem dumb, but would you guys recommend this over the Vastar set? I was thinking having the flexible shaft and a few more bits might be useful in some of my builds.
I got this one for half the price (originally just for the torx security bits) and it has held up well: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/
If you're still on this, I bought this screwdriver set and it's juuuust barely long enough to reach into the handle to unscrew the two in there.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just get one of these. It includes that bit, and I've never had to buy another screw driver again.
No mate you won't need any additional cables, the motherboard willo come with SATA cables and your power supply will come with the necessary power cables. Do have a screw driver set such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015F734P0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It has a number of attachments that can always prove handy and more so, it's magnetized and will make your life easy when dealing with the little screws. And no a magnetic screwdriver such as that one won't damage anything, the magnetic field is too mild!
Good luck on your build and do write in again if you're stuck at any point. Cheers!
Thanks,
It's not to much of a hassle with only one wera handle.
I'm looking at getting these soon,
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056491-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B016NC7NN0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487731921&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wera+ratchet+set+screwdriver
This thing has been a game changer for me!
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056491-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B016NC7NN0
I've been doing something similar to yourself though less in a consolidating manner than just upgrading my tools. I have a lot of Wera kit and can't say enough good about them though I've heard equally good things about Wiha and others.
On the multi side, something like this kit might suit you.
I have this kit which has the same small driver handle but a selection of regular short bits. It has the added benefit of a small but strong and very well made ratchet handle and sockets. If you need something along those lines as well the extra cost is worth spending.
As for regular screwdrivers I have this set but you may find their regular non-insulated ones cheaper.
The blades are top notch and the handles I find very comfortable in the hand. Everyones different though so you're probably best to try some out in a shop somewhere if you can get hold of them.
It may need cleaning, or if it’s a pro and has reflective surfaces enabled (I think that’s the setting) or other Pro settings turned on it can add some more strain initially loading things in.
Mine was doing the same, clleaning out the PS4 of all the dust helped tremendously. It still gets somewhat loud, but not nearly so bad, with the Pro settings enabled at first, but then dies down.
To clean it you need some tools. These are what I used. ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Also I really recommend not just stopping at cleaning the fan, but getting all the way down to the heat sink. That can get clogged really badly with dust. I never thought about it until my PS4 kept shutting off due to overheating when playing God of War and the new Spider-Man. Once I got the heat sink cleaned I saw a ton of improvement and it stopped shutting down. Now I just make sure to clean it every 4-6 months and keep the side vents well dusted every week.
Hope that helps. :)
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511977685&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=oria
I work in a computer repair shop. We found this set last year and I highly recommend it. The build quality is great, the screwdriver is extendable, and all the bits are magnetic. They saved money on the part the bits sit in being formed plastic but I have not found another tool set that can match it for price to quality!
Edit: For spelling and format.
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone, Smartphone, Game Console, Tablet, PC, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wDfADb9JXTR73
This is what I used and I was able to put everything together but all really need a good screwdriver and some bits but the kit I linked has everything you need and more
I have this screwdriver set. ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone, Smartphone, Game Console, Tablet, PC, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xYMFDbYJVBT4Z
I’ve used the 2.0 on the other screw and it worked fine, but when i went to do it with the other (which i’ve tried with some of the one that didn’t fit cause i’m a moron) the screw head was that damaged, any advice or video will be appreciated
Thx
And also sorry for my bad english and terminology. I’m from Argentina and speak spanish
I only have the screwdrivers to take the screws of the back casing off. To get to the hinges I assume I need different drivers. Do you think that this set would suffice?
https://www.amazon.com/Oria-Precision-Screwdriver-Professional-Electronics/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E3NPMTTM2ZQC8SXNW32C
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone, Smartphone, Game Console, Tablet, PC, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PY5MDbR6F2XXD
It's just a screwdriver. Don't need to get fancy.
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone/Smartphone/Game Console/Tablet/PC, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wzBXDb7BF4ANY
Something like this suffices, I like the options for a variety of devices not just PC. You'd use maybe 2 heads out of all of it for PC building but for the price you can't beat that. You're building a pc here so smaller heads are needed for all the small screws you'll be tinkering with.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1V2XDbDHRJKVW
This is the kit I use. I highly reccomend it as having magnetic tips is a godsend and just having multiple sizes it general makes it so you don't strip the screws.
I bought a blue kit from Amazon a few months back and it has really came in handy, iPhone, switch, PS4 controller. It’s usually around 11-15 dollars and it comes in a blue or orange color scheme.
Something like this
ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Repair Tool Kit, 60 in 1 with 54 Bits Precision Screwdriver Kit, Flexible Shaft, for iPhone 8, 8 Plus/ Smartphone/ Game Console/ Tablet/ PC, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kscMAb2HB4TF1
I remember reading about that. Ironic that my Zeus is all jacked up right now with a grub screw that won't come out and I've tried everything. I ordered this from amazon today because I'm done with these shitty tools they send you: https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ --- I've tried everything including 20 minutes in the ultrasonic, gorilla glue etc... I just got rubber bands a few minutes ago from the store which would be funny if that worked out of all the crazy stuff I tried.
The T3 is for grub screws and it should have the right fit for that too I would think.
Honestly, if I were to buy another precision set, I'd go with this that I just found on Amazon. But if you just want the one type of bit, the name of what you're looking for is Torx bits.
ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Repair Tool Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Precision Screwdriver Kit, Flexible Shaft, for 8, 8 Plus/Smartphone/Game Console/Tablet/PC https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.1fXCbBAV24QJ
As far as tools and such, you'll need a splitter cable for the fans (which should be included with the Noctua fans) as well as this: https://www.amazon.com/GELID-SOLUTIONS-PWM-Adapter-Cooler/dp/B005ZKZEQA
That adapter is to connect the bottom mounted fans to the gpu, so you can control the fan speeds using MSI afterburner (overclocking/fan profile program). Besides that, just a screwdriver, microfiber cloth, 99% isopropyl, and these pads if you decide to go the Accelero route: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTLI4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You should also invest in a screwdriver set with small bits, as some of the screws will strip if you try to use too big of a bit. Something like this should be ok: https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=electronics+screwdriver+set&amp;qid=1555887517&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
The isopropyl and microfiber cloths are to wipe the cpu/gpu before applying thermal paste to ensure a completely clean surface, as well as clean up already applied thermal paste. DO NOT use paper towels as they will leave residue on the cpu/gpu.
All the things you mentioned about watercooling are why I didn't go that route. Not only maintenance concerns, but if something is installed improperly, you run the risk of destroying your components. It just takes one mistake or loose fitting to potentially destroy everything. Not to scare you from trying it or anything, but that was always a risk I wasn't willing to take.
I have my rear fan mounted to the case as intake, with the U9S blowing air toward the front of the case. I know it sounds stupid to vent hot air into the case, but this is how I get the best temps out of my setup. You might be better off aiming it upward, but I didn't want the bottom fans to be completely starved of air, so I put another 120mm intake fan on the front part of the side bracket to help cool the air coming from the cpu.
I also had the same concerns as you about the feet, and after several days of using the stock feet, I noticed how hot the table was getting underneath the case. I bought some custom feet from here: https://mnpctech.com/ncase-m1-mods/ncase-m1-black-silver-replace-feet/
They are a bit pricey, but I've heard of people buying feet meant for speaker amps that will work as well. They just need to use M3 screws to fit into the stock feet holes on the M1.
Edit: for the second fan, you would mount one on the back of the M1, directly to the case. The second fan would be mounted directly on the cpu heatsink, above the ram. If you're dead set on having that ram, you can always mount the fan a little higher so it clears the ram. Shouldn't be a big deal. If you plan on pointing the U9S toward the top of the case, then it doesn't matter what ram you have.
Edit2: wow thanks for the gold!
It’s like $15 on Amazon
I used this toolkit for the install: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E16J6RQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I ended up ordering this precision kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E16J6RQ/ref=chk_gwtyp_product?smid=&amp;psc=1
Yeah, I used this kit on my joycons
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E16J6RQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The one you're looking at looks pretty much the same.
OP, if you are in the market for a precision set, these $15 sets are pretty nice. On par with the older iFixit kit sets, way better than their current stuff. Buddy and I have the same set, seem to be hard-wearing tips and includes your #2 Phillips.
Syntus 63 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Set with 57 Bit Magnetic Screwdriver Kit Electronics Repair Tool Kit for iPhone, Tablet, Macbook, Xbox, Cellphone, PC, Game Console, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PB4RPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nfujDbR06HW0P
The cheap options, should be good enough for a Pro Controller.
The good option. Probably overkill for just the controller, but this thing is amazing for general use. It has bits very few kits do. The screwdriver is fantastic.
If you do other sorts of electronics stuff I highly recommend this kit.
I found this one on amazon if youre looking for a multi bit set. Seems to have pretty good reviews but take a look at the videos. I would buy it myself but i already have a similar set that doesnt see much use. I dont know if my harbor freight one is s2 tool steel though, i know ive bent a couple of the flathead tips. Who knows maybe ill get it.
Solved it myself. For any of you spacemen of the future that might be trying to do the same thing to this kind of laptop, here's a little help:
You will need a security bit set. If you go to a hardware store and show them this picture, they can get it for you. I think we found a set on Amazon for $14 or so.
Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744BTGJ8
This may do it for you: https://www.amazon.com/100-Piece-Security-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Vanadium/dp/B0744BTGJ8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=security+bit+set&amp;qid=1550161387&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5 it is amazon so hopefully available for ship in your country
Get yourself a no-touch set of security bits.
https://www.amazon.com/ARES-Security-Magnetic-Extension-Resistant/dp/B017AG6Q3G
https://www.amazon.com/100-Piece-Security-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Vanadium/dp/B0744BTGJ8
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-Extractor-Extractors-Cobalt/dp/B000F9ANQW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=easy+out&amp;qid=1557903137&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-8
You're garage!
Seriously, this is one of the of the higher value maintenance tasks most people can do at home. It can easily save you $200 and much more if you're also changing rotors. Just use the jack from the car if you don't have a floor jack. The only thing you might need that most people don't have are jack stands (safety first). You might also need some grease for the pins and the back of the pads, but otherwise it's pretty simple tools. You might also need an impact driver if you need to replace the rotors as well (I'm not sure if Yukon rotors are bolted on at OEM). Like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE
Here is a decent guide:
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Chevrolet-Tahoe-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/
I can find this https://www.amazon.ca/TEKTON-2830-Everybit-Precision-Electronic/dp/B009MKGRQA/ref=s9_simh_gw_g469_i2_r?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=Y7SAJN4RS2ECV8VFAKNY&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=b06971ce-9992-44c1-9ee0-eb9792e71b5e&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop but it seems to be same bits
I'm not sure why people downvoted you for pointing to the 100 series, which is impact ready.
Edit: dwara50 for drill, versus dwara100, for impact, on dewalt website. Seriously people, why downvote people trying to bring info to the table?
Edit2: maybe the impact rated dwara100 has more durable gears? According to the more informative amazon. So the dwara50 may be fine for impact uses but won't last as long. Anyhow, I'm not asserting who's right or wrong, only wanting to point out, the difference in 2 models.
I haven't had experience with the set you listed but I bought the Wera Tool check set about a year ago and it's great. Doesn't have the ability to spill, has all of the bits you would need for the most stuff and has some smaller sockets. I would highly recommend. It's 10 bucks more I think but that's not much over the years you'll have it.
Wera 056490 Tool-Check Plus Bit Ratchet Set with Sockets - Metric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8MYMT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Naq4BbV4832TP
Edit: I will warn you that the screwdriver handle is very small. But if you need the extra torque to break the screw loose you can use the ratchet.
Try using an impact driver, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qzCBDb9KRYWE8