Reddit Reddit reviews Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1 in x 60 in Roll

We found 38 Reddit comments about Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1 in x 60 in Roll. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Office & School Supplies
Tape, Adhesives & Fasteners
Mounting Tape
Office Products
Interlocking Tape & Mounting Products
Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1 in x 60 in Roll
One roll of double sided tape for mounting items up to 5 poundsIdeal for mounting address plaques, signs, and moreWeather Resistant Tape That Holds Securely to Indoor or Outdoor Surfaces Such As Stucco and BrickRoll is 60 inches long by 1 inch wideMade in the U.S.A
Check price on Amazon

38 Reddit comments about Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1 in x 60 in Roll:

u/jorjordandan · 13 pointsr/oculus

If you get the grey outdoor mounting strips, it will take out your drywall before it falls off (that may be a problem to take down but it's easy to install). It's crazy strong after it cures. It's the consumer version of the VHB tape compared here with rivets. We use it in our small batch manufacturing business....

EDIT: Packaging looks like this

u/iamlost_ · 10 pointsr/pics

I use that shit, it's insane. I tell everyone about it.

3M Scotch 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape, 1 in x 60 in

u/M_Madison · 8 pointsr/homedefense

I bought some 3M tape off of Amazon, to mount a sign onto brick. It sticks like crazy. I don't see why this couldn't work for you. These new doorbells aren't very heavy. Just try to clean the surface with soap and water before using the tape.

u/vodka-and-espresso · 7 pointsr/homegym

I use these lights mounted with this tape along the bottom of the walls (~4" gap between the floor and the floorboards). They're quite bright on the white setting, and underlighting is far less annoying than overheads, since it isn't shining in your eyes while you're on the bench. End result looks like this

u/HarmlessEZE · 7 pointsr/Multicopter

3/4" heatshrink to go over the ESC's. 0.25" I think to go over your battery cables. 5/8ths maybe to cover XT60 connectors. Wire sleeves aren't needed. I hold stuff down with double sided tape. or a wrap of electrical.

Thin solder, you'll thank me. Along with a pencil tip for your iron. You'll want ?14G? wire to solder a power lead, confirm this. I also didn't have a 5V step down to power my FC on my first build. You'll want one. Many PDB's have one integrated. That makes it easy.

Purple Loctite or your frame will vibrate itself apart, Real quick. Don't use this on Nylon, and don't get it on the motor shaft, but it is extra important to use on motor mounts though. Just be careful.

A battery buzzer that you can solder onto your PDB is nice. Adhesive velcro is good if you want to use that in addition to battery straps. Either that or hobby foam. A parallel charging board is nice to have so you don't lose an entire day charging batteries. Learn to use it.

I personally replace all my stock hardware with Aluminum Cap screws because I want to cut weight and I hate dealing with stripped hex heads. Not needed though. Zip ties are good to have. A bundle of black ones will work. I've found the colored ones are more prone to breaking. They are good to hold antenna wires.

90deg pin headers are nice. My FC didn't come with those, only straight, and stack height is a real problem with straight pins. Extra props. You'll want those. 8mm socket to remove prop nuts. 3mm allen key. USB to micro USB cable to update your FC. Some XT60 connectors.

Beyond that, I'm sure I'm over looking some things. After a couple of builds you just have extras of stuff so you overlook.

u/abodesupportBP · 7 pointsr/Abode

We recommend using the 3M or Scotch indoor outdoor Mounting Tape. It's gray with a red peel off backing that you can cut to fit. It can be found at Walmart or your local hardware stores. Below is a link to the tape from amazon:

u/under_design · 7 pointsr/raspberry_pi
u/cdoublejj · 6 pointsr/homelab

i've been using these :

Let me tell the with gorilla stuff i do NOT doubt bit that it holds 30lbs, the bent ATX case bottom i jacked up trying to pry an SSD off of would be a testament, i'm lucky i didn't break the SSD or bend it's casing.

the 2 in the front and the 2 above the FBDIMMS, 1 stuck to the other and that one stuck to the case, holds a perfect 90 degree angle.

u/crackadeluxe · 4 pointsr/fixit

The toggle bolt, or some type of fastener will indeed hold more weight and be a more permanent fix. However, you said you are a renter, which changes things.

In that case you might consider using a foam mounting tape, or the stronger exterior mounting tape.

Just make sure you clean both the back of the phone and the wall thoroughly, and then wipe both down with alcohol prior to tape application. If you put enough mounting tape on that phone, which looks fairly light, your troubles should be over. That's going to be your cheapest option that'll last as long as you are there and not require any special tools or wall surgery. Especially considering that wall looks pretty dodgy in the first place and trying to affix anything through it could be asking for more trouble than it is worth. If you owned it I'd advise different but that is not what you asked. Good luck.

u/staggernaut · 4 pointsr/SpaceBuckets


Three 5-gallon buckets and one lid (Ace Hardware has white ones for $4, if you don't want orange or blue from HD or Lowe's.) All three cost $12-13.

THESE LEDS from Amazon. $13.59

THIS POWER SUPPLY, the Supernight LED Charger. It is $20.99. You will also need a power cord for it, which I recommend just going to literally ANY thrift store and picking out a nice three-pronged power cord. I'm fairly certain that any three-pronged power cord will work, so if you have one you're not using at home, you can use that.

THIS LED GROW LIGHT, which is 300w and cost $50.99.

TWO of these PC fans. Total cost $10.04.

I bought one of this black duct tape, one of this foil tape (although I recommend buying two, as I ran out with my first roll and had to buy another from the store), and also some double-sided tape, because, if your LED strip is like mine, the adhesive backing is almost nonexistent and the tape becomes necessary.

Oh, and good-quality velcro adhesive patches!

You will also need a power drill and a sturdy box cutter.

I started by taping the entire interior of one bucket with the foil tape, save for the bottom portion where the soil goes. Then I covered the outside with the black tape. Next I drilled holes in the bottom for drainage.

Then I took two of the other buckets and used a ruler's width to mark a cut line right below the lip of each bucket to create spacers. The process of cutting the plastic buckets was definitely the worst part of the process, especially since I didn't have a great cutter, so if you're getting a new one, don't be too cheap. I got this one and it's blade locking function no longer works after this project, so be advised. I lined the spacers with foil tape.

Using the remains of one of the other buckets, I trimmed more of the bucket down so that it's now only the bottom and stands 5" tall. I found some random large screws in my toolbox and drilled them around the circumference, which allows the rest of the bucket to be easily lifted off of the drain pan.

I then drew a circle about 1 cm in from the lip of the lid and cut that out. The light fits perfectly on it. There is lots of light escape at the rim, but it looks pretty cool, so I don't mind it for now.

For the power supply, I cut off the female end of the three-pronged cord I got from Arc Thrift and stripped the wires down a bit. There were three wires inside, green (ground), white (neutral), and black (live), which I then connected to driver. I was certain to unplug during any wire-play and I hope everyone else is, too.

The sidelights were sort of a struggle. I used a scrap of the buckets, like maybe 4-5 inches of bucket from about half-way down to a quarter, so not much. I then lined the inside with the double-sided tape, cutting strips, in an effort to conserve tape, which feels very stable. I drilled a hole and fed the cable through, then determined the best spot to drill a hole on the exterior bucket. It's about at the center of the bucket, or in my case, 13 cm down from the lip. Finally, I fed the LED cable through the exterior hole and the lights were basically in place, where it would sit right above the soil.

I didn't want to have to extend any cords, so I found an ideal spot to place the driver on the exterior so that all cables (LED strip, both fans) could reach their appropriate ports. I fixed the velcro onto the bucket and the driver and tidied the wires with some more duct tape.

Finally, I sealed the edges of both fans, inside and outside, with their respective tapes.

I'm pretty sure that's everything I've done to this point, but if I think of anything else, I'll add it. I'm likely going to black-out the spacers to reduce light leak.

Please let me know if you have any advice, questions, comments!

Thank you /r/SpaceBuckets, for the inspiration and wisdom!

u/amadiro_1 · 4 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch

It never leaves a residue, sticks almost permanently to itself, and can hold quite well to even porous surfaces.

u/noah551 · 4 pointsr/subaru

I've been asked this several times haha. I'll do a little explaining now, but I think it's time I put together an album explaining it with pictures.

I used the following wiring harness:
OPT7 Offroad Light Bar wiring Harness Kit (4 Items), 380W - Single Connector

The wiring is in a protective plastic/rubber sleeve. I ran the sleeve up the side of the windshield. On my windshield there's a slight gap between the metal of the body and glass, like the Rubber seal is set in a little bit. I cut a thin strip of 3m exterior mounting tape and used a screwdriver or something to push it into the gap.

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch

The adhesive tape has held up all winter and about a total of 8 months, so I'd say it works well.

I ran it up the passenger side because the way my light bar was the wiring came out on that side, plus you don't see it easily everytime you get in the car. You could do the drivers side also. The wiring harness I used was basically just long enough. I'd recommend starting from the light and working backwards to the battery, that way you don't have any extra wiring up top.

You can also use some type of adhesive wire clip to guide the wire down the rain gutter thing so it's a little more secure till it gets to the light. I attempted to do this, but I had trouble getting the clip things to stick.I'll probably try to redo it soon.

Like I said, I'll try to get some pictures when I get around to it to help explain it further.

This way is a lot easier and "safer" than drilling through the roof or something.

u/chandlerpopper · 3 pointsr/photography

I use this stuff - to attached a couple of strips of metal or wood to the back of a print, then string a wire between the two and hang the wire on a nail.

You end up with something approximating this mount sold by Posterjack -

u/abode-Pro · 3 pointsr/Abode

Here are some techniques that other customers have used and had some success with.

A. Use a 2" long peace of Monofilament fishing line or dental floss as a saw to cut the 2-sided tape. Place the line between the device and the surface it is stuck to, and saw as you pull the line across the surface.

B. Using a dull butter knife by prying at the corner of the device and slowly work your way around the device while prying a little at a time.

abode does not sell the two sided tape so we recommend using the 3M or Scotch indoor-outdoor Mounting Tape, it is gray with a red peel off backing and you can cut to fit. Found at Walmart and your local hardware stores.

Link to the tape of choice:

u/chrisbrl88 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Mounting tape. Hardware store carries it.

u/Emiliak · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Try this 3M Scotch Permanent Outdoor Mounting Tape. It last through baking heat and freezing snow. Make the most use of all surface area. Like MrPolymath said, heat the tape first (I sit on it for a few minutes). When you apply it, press on the radio hard for 30 seconds. I think it'll hold.

u/pzer0 · 2 pointsr/apple

I should have just put the link in my original comment... I'm lazy :P

Here ya go... It's even cheaper than when I got mine. Now $3.33 with free shipping. It is NOT a high quality dock, but it definitely works with a (larger) case on the phone. I used some 3M double sided tape. This tape is STUPID strong, and has a variety of uses. I always have a roll in my tool kit.

u/Monkey0077 · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Good to know, I'll just go to a cabinet store soon, and this the 3m tape?

3M Scotch 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape, 1 in x 60 in

u/koalapear · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

The power strip is attached with this tape. I used cable clips similar to these but replaced the crappy tape that comes on them with the same stuff I used for the power strip. The ones I actually used I found at Ace Hardware. All of the power bricks are attached with Velcro so that they can be easily removed. I also used these cable ties so, again, everything can be easily removed. I was able to pick it all up at Ace Hardware but if you're not near one of those I'm sure Homedepot or any hardware store should carry most of this stuff. Hope this helps!

u/efx0a · 1 pointr/pcmods

Thanks! At first I thought I would have to bolt the window in, which I didn't like since it doesn't look as clean. I ended up getting double sided mounting tape from Walmart, I believe it was 3M brand. Similar to this -

So after I cut the window out with a dremel, I used rubber grommet edging that I bought at Performance-PCs (which is where I bought most of the modding supplies I used in this project) - to line the edge, then apply the mounting tape and set the window in.

u/bsmith0 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I used this to my hold escs, RX, and VTX. Do you think this is up to the task of holding on in a crash, or should I add zipties. Thanks

u/ImYoungxD · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You should apply it when it's above 50 degrees. Otherwise, warm up the wall, apply and hold for a minute or two to adhere.

I have 3 on my brick wall.

u/manintheyellowhat · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I'd recommend this stuff rather than any sort of velcro.

u/officer21 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

They are conservative with their estimates. I have a Corsair 200R, the allowable height is 160mm. I installed a glass window on the inside with mounting tape, so the clearance should be 160mm - thickness of the glass - thickness of the mounting tape. I got a 165mm air cooler, it fits.

u/tomkatt · 1 pointr/techsupportmacgyver

SSDs have no moving parts. Half the time I just drop them in the bottom of the case or shove them in 3/5 or 5/25 bays. I don't care where they go. I'm also a big fan of 2-sided tape. That stuff I linked will hold anything inside a case with just tiny bits of it. I've stuck SSDs and HDDs to it, and I've even mounted fans in odd places with the stuff, just tape triangles over the corners.

u/14dickinsc · 1 pointr/headphones

I just used this:

Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1"x60"

Some people also use a Velcro system so they can remove it if they want but this seemed cleaner and it's just as easy to take off with the tape but you'll need to put a new piece on if you do.

u/thecreativeone91 · 1 pointr/Ring

I've always done tape for alarm systems that aren't hardwired. Granted I don't use the included I use this stuff as it's way stronger

u/csinlasath · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

This is what I used. Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1"x60"

u/dstaller · 1 pointr/battlestations


Both should do the job just fine. The second one is weaker supposedly but I'm pretty sure it's the one I used for my power strips and they've held up well. I always worry about going too strong and trying to remove it later.

u/MarsOG13 · 1 pointr/DIY

3m heavy duty double sided tape.

BUT, when taking it down use dental floss to pull it off the wall, otherwise it will pull the paint and maybe drywall off with it. Shit if tough AF.

u/DiEz3l · 1 pointr/pcmods

For some of the pieces you're not sure how to attach. Check out this stuff.

Used it for years in my R/C hobby, And am using it in my 540T and 900D in some spots. Stuff is absolutely awesome.. It's double sticky tape, that fucking works and isn't 1/2" thick.

u/felclef · 1 pointr/iPhoneX

this is where I saw the idea:

u/MeatAndBourbon · 0 pointsr/Vive

What 3m tape did you use? 3m makes a huge variety of different thickness and stickiness.

I would bet money you weren't using the 4011 kind. This stuff:

Use appropriate tape and you should be fine.